65eTurbo

Hi all. I need a little help diagnosing a carbon monoxide leak. I'm showing about 15 PPM While taxiing but as much as 50 PPM in flight. I've blocked off the heater duct at.the firewall so I know it's not coming from a heater leak. If I open the cabin vent pull on the panel, and put the sensor in the airstream it quickly drops to zero so it's not coming in through the vent system. I found an open gap in the floor panel ahead of the spar and have taped that over with aluminum tape. I also removed the screen on the air exit on top of the fuselage over the baggage compartment with no noticeable difference. The levels don't seem to vary with the gear up or down. We've buttoned the firewall up tight with RTV on the smallest pin holes. We've also aluminum taped over the hole at the back of the nose wheel well which enters the belly pan area. The problem seems to have cropped up after the installation of the new interior so I'm likely faced with determining whether there is now inlet leak that's open or I've blocked off the number of exit leaks that kept the levels low. Thoughts anyone?

Same. Plus, I prefer the ability to manually snug myself in and turbulence and the lack of weight and complexity involved in an inertia reel.

Hi all. I'm encountering a strange phenomenon and I think it's likely isolated to my airplane but I thought I would check to see if anyone else has experienced it in case there's a common chemical on our airplanes that causes it. On an area of the belly on the pilot side near the back of the wing across the belly there are some splotches of paint that are soft and peeling and exposing the bare aluminum underneath. It's as though someone threw a handful of paint stripper onto the belly. I will clean and prep the areas and paint to match, but I was just curious if anyone else had experienced this phenomenon and figured out what chemical had caused it. The paint is about 35 years old and I've never experienced this before.

Better to look like one than to be one.

If you have a tail strobe, you could remove it and cover with an inside flush patch panel. You still can be seen from behind. It's the perfect mod. Saves weight, lowers drag, and saves a few watts. I did.

Check the one on the line at Stick and Rudder Flying Club at UGN.

I did my PPL and IFR at Frasca Field. Rudy Frasca had a short bodied Mooney (and a Spitfire, and a....). Anyway, one day he mentioned in passing that he used to take it up high and kill the engine and soar with it.

Does it have the little eyeball vent assembly for fresh air by the pilot's knee? I'm interested in that, including the screws.

I need one too!

Hi all. Since I don't really use it for.anything like timed holds or approaches anymore, I'm thinking about removing my davtron clock and using the hole for something else. I'm assuming the timers in an attached gps or a timer app in an ipad serve the legal requirement for a timer or clock. Am I thinking about this correctly?

I might have a source for those, if you were interested. STC for old Rajays had no serial or N number, so they can be installed in accordance with STC with a copy of the documentation.

Hey All, can I bump this up? The beloved C2000 in my E model seems to work perfect *except* the down attitude button on the computer head doesn't work. Up button increases up attitude. I tried to couple an ILS the other night and it centered on the inbound and flagged a glideslope intercept but wouldn't follow it down. Altitude hold seems to work find and holding the yoke button down and adjusting attitude works fine as well. I'm thinking its inside the computer somewhere. Thoughts, suggestions?

Gorgeous airplane. Congratulations on the medical and owning the best of the Mooney models with a properly actuated landing gear. Now, just needs a turbo.....

Nice. Modestly priced, I'll bet. Did you have a good source for hides?

Love the seats. Who did them?

No. 8..7. I'm using the numbers from ADA.

Anything further on the resolution of the hypothetical overboost?

The io 360 compression ratio equates to 14.7 hp per.gph. I run my Rajay normalized non intercooled io 360 at 27 inches, 2400 or 2100 rpm depending on power I want. 10 gph at 27 inches 2400 at 8000 is 165ktas and at 18000 is 195 ktas. Cool smooth quiet operation. Between 30 and 50 lop.

My M20E heat is doing strange things, like leaking a little heat when I slow down. This has prompted to me to consider IRANing the heater valve, but it got me to looking at the whole heat and ventilation situation. So, a couple of questions. What should I have on hand when disassembling the heat valve on the firewall? Any kind of seals, washers, etc. I'm hoping to do it in one sitting rather than having the plane down while I go order/find stuff. Here are the threads I can find: In the winter, I get plenty of heat, but I'm thinking of an eyeball vent on the Pilot's side output to be more effective in redirecting to CoPilot's side, and visa versa. Maybe slit the outlet aluminum tube and hose clamp in a valve. Anyone done this? I have an eyeball vent on the Pilot's side in the side scoop which is fairly effective. Unfortunately, probably due to the cheek vents associated with my turbo system, it seems the incoming air is a bit warmer than outside ambient. Anyone add another of these valves on the copilot's side? The overhead vent is pretty effective, but I hear that converting to eyeball vents improves the air distribution, and maybe a manifold helps airflow to the front two? Seems like CoPilot windows are available, maybe with a scoop. My glass is pretty new so it seems a shame. One last thought is to add a giant fan in the back of the hat rack blowing inboard, based on a similar practice in Twin Bonanzas. Could even have it draw air through a water tray to create a swamp cooler. Thoughts? Just looking for best practice and tricks for sorting out these systems.

Which SB applies to a Turbonormalized I0360 ?

Also, be concerned for your vacuum instruments after a vacuum pump failure. When the vacuum suddenly fails karma the carbon dust from the vacuum pump blades camp suddenly flow back into the instruments. Good practice is to place a filter in between the vacuum pump and the vacuum instruments. There used to be a company called it clear view filter that made filters that were clear so you could see how much damage had been prevented by having the filter inline. The clear filters are no longer available but I'd still consider an installation of A filter. My vacuum pump recently failed at my mechanic said "that filter sure saved you a lot of grief " .

My Rajay doesn't have an intercooler. Nothing wrong with that. Adding a pop off valve as an overboost backup... nothing wrong with that. Adding a pop off valve to a Rajay and using it for boost control *could* lead to high intake temps with the wastegate all the way closed at lower altitudes, and would exceed the 28.5 inch maximum MP of the STC.

I've got copies of a field approval doc that could work. The M20Turbos wouldn't, since it has an intercooler, or at least I wouldn't sign it off if I were an IA or DER. However, as a safety backup, it really doesn't have a downside. Used for boost control, you could wind up with higher than expected intake temperatures or something if the wastegate was closed but the extra air was blowing off to maintain 30 inches.

Sounds good. I'd look at the edges of the piston crowns and the cylinder walls for scoring from a broken ring.

No, but I've seen them retrofitted to the turbo to flapper-box tube as an emergency relief. I really liked the M20 Turbos setup with the 30 inch popoff after the intercooler. Simple and elegant, and no wastegate manual valve needed.