MikeOH

As another EE, I need to chime in and agree with @EricJ. It ABSOLUTELY makes sense where those grounds are located! If you don't understand shielding principles do NOT mess with the design!

To continue to beat this horse...I doubt it's going to be "easy" to find IA's and A&P's that will do that. The defense is going to claim your issues "happened after the fact", and I see very little evidence in this case that would allow you to prove otherwise. I don't see IAs and A&Ps signing sworn anything to go against another shop. There could be ramifications...like them getting sued for slander/libel. What's their motivation? If you are paying them for their testimony (expert witness OPINION) then be prepared for the shop to have their expert testify the opposite! This just isn't as 'simple' as you want to make it. Again, if you're just after 'vengeance' to 'get even' with the shop by putting them through the hassle, then go for it. Just don't expect 'justice'. This is one of those, sadly becoming more common, situations that suck. I'd 'suck it up' and never go back. And, hope I am lucky enough to find a better shop going forward.

Thanks for the details. While the cylinder is removed, I understand re-torquing the 2 thru-bolts, I'm not too clear on the need to tighten the 7 cylinder head studs; you say 'just to keep the pressure even' but I'm not following how that has anything to do with the main bearings as all the force would just be within the case-half, not between the cases?? Also, do aircraft main bearings not have 'tangs' to 'lock' them in place? Every auto engine I've rebuilt has both main and rod bearing insert shells with tangs.

Sorry, but what are your qualifications as an "expert"? He's going to spend very little effort and refute the claims. From what's been presented, the plaintiff is then going to have a Hell of a time PROVING any of this. Sure, the plaintiff could spend a bunch of time, effort, and money just to 'get even' making the shop defend itself. But the outcome is not anywhere near certain to go in favor of the plaintiff. Lawyers on both sides will make a bunch of money; that's for certain!

@midlifeflyer My bad; I confused you with another poster that has owned a size-able number of aircraft. Wish I could remember his name!

Heck, that's just the new 'scimitar' prop

Six new cylinders!?!! For high oil consumption??? I think you should investigate a bit further; it may be just one cylinder with an issue. If so, you can return at least 5, maybe even 6, cylinders and the Xanax!

As you say, I doubt the engine is going to fail on the subsequent trip around the pattern. The PROP, on the other hand!!! On what argument do you base your life on that the prop isn't going to shed pieces on that same trip?

I'm pretty much a cynic when it comes to the whole pre-buy/annual discussion. Warning: the following is my OPINION only and based on my SINGLE purchase experience combined with countless tales/stories/nightmares read here on our hallowed forum 1) Many looking for a pre-buy are newbies like I was nearly 8 years ago. As such, I didn't know what I didn't know. Pretty poor position to be in when dealing with A&Ps for such a significant purchase with possible financially dire consequences post purchase. 2) No specific meaning or requirements for a pre-buy. And, see #1, how do you know what to specify when you've never done this before?? My pre-buy at a MSC revealed only a few minor issues that, even as a first time owner, didn't strike me dealbreakers . However, the MSC completely missed a leaking prop hub! That was a pricey thing to miss and one I think they should have found as part of a pre-buy. But, I'll admit that I didn't specifically ask them to check the prop. Having never purchased before all I told the MSC was to look for 'show-stoppers'/corrosion. Live and learn, I cynically say. 3) Annual is the WRONG thing to have done. While it is a defined check-list my opinion is that it can (and has) failed to uncover MAJOR issues even if followed to the letter. (Sure, after purchase if you want 'fresh' annual, go ahead. My point is I think it's a waste of money as a pre-buy) 4) What I did before spending a dime on a pre-buy was to look for consistent and frequent use over the last 3 to 5 years. My logic is that that history 'proves' the plane was decently maintained, reliable and, in my case, safe enough that the owner flew his family around without concern. 5) If I had it to do over again as a first time buyer, I'd hire Savvy to handle the whole thing. They are going to know where to take the plane and what to tell the shop to look for. 6) Now, as an 'experienced owner' if I was looking at another Mooney purchase I'd do the same recency of use screening, look the logs over myself (now that I know how to do that), borescope the cylinders and valves myself (I own a borescope), inspect for corrosion and skip spending the money on a pre-buy. 7) Bottom line: It's a bit of a crap shoot NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO! Being able to come up with $50K, worst case, after purchase (especially if financed) is important to your sanity, IMHO. All of the above may only be worth $0.02 on a good day I would be curious if @KLRDMDwould share if he routinely paid for pre-buys on the multitude of aircraft he has purchased over the years. Seems whatever his method, it's been pretty successful based on sheer volume

I was lucky to notice the wear on mine before the tube was too far gone. My A&P added a teflon 'bushing' to the hole and 'wrapped' the tube which stopped the wear.

I'd recommend that you don't mention to either of them that you are posting here... especially important for keeping the wife happy, I would think

HAH! High tech 8" 48K floppies! I still have the punched paper tapes from my first program back in 1972

I'm using my DEC PDP-8 (with real core memory!)....only issue I haven't worked around is that by the time the update is finished it's time for the next one

Since you are normally very rational in your posts, I'll make one more attempt since you seem to have some kind of mental block preventing you from seeing what you did as unacceptable. What you did as a SAFETY pilot was well outside the scope of the DUTIES of a SAFETY pilot; it was therefore NOT "a safe and controlled environment". If that logic still does not make sense to you, try this: If an ordinary passenger suddenly grabs the controls and pulls you into a steep climb you, no doubt, would be able to "handle it". The question is, would you be upset with them? If not, then I'm done with trying to get you to understand why what you did rightfully upset the pilot.

I see @atpdave beat me to it.

So, what? Your pilot made NO such request of you as SAFETY pilot!

The issue here has NOTHING to do with whether we can "handle the situation". You keep missing that point.

LOL! I looked at the Inn location, saw the industrial park, and thought, dang, looks like the perfect location for an airport

And NONE of those safety pilot duties include 'failing' any equipment! If the "safety" pilot wants to do that he MUST state those intentions BEFORE the flight and, as you say, obtain CONFIRMATION that it is okay from the PIC. If he does not, he's being a total Alpha Hotel, IMHO.

Already asked and answered, above.

I dumped my FLYING subscription a decade ago...ZERO regrets.

Are you sure it is actually coming from the sniffle valve, vs just oil dripping OFF it? I.e., another actual source of the oil.

I'm in the same situation. And, yes, an annual at a big name MSC is going to run $6K. I spring for that every couple of years, meanwhile I'm lucky to have a reasonably local IA that runs around $3.5K including a few repairs. If no long lead-time parts, I'm done in under 2 weeks at either shop. I consider myself very fortunate. While I've always been a 'hands on' type and do most of my own automotive repairs (including engine rebuilding) I've not been involved in any of my 7 annuals. I do tend to fix discrepancies myself throughout the year with the oversight and sign-off of a local A&P friend; helps keep the annual cost low. Yes, the annual is a chunk of cost when compared to the value of my plane but I just swallow hard when I sign the check and remind myself how lucky I am to be able to afford my hobby! When it comes to resale I just accept that I'm likely not going to get much; it's a 55 year old piece of equipment now, albeit with very functional IFR avionics including altitude holding GPSS A/P, but it's the NOT spiffy glass that everyone wants these days. Hopefully, I'll enjoy it for the next 10 or more years, at which point it will really be just a shell that someone will use as a starting point, best case. I make myself feel better by realizing that I will have spent FAR more money owning it for 20 years than what I paid. What I sell it for is going to be pretty immaterial to my financial situation so my plan is to price it to sell to someone that isn't going to insist on 'tearing it apart' for a pre-buy...I'll show the 'tear it apart' people the door! Might even try a Dutch auction when the time comes

@PT20J What do you lube them with? Would DC4 be accepatable?

2 months? Fly the plane. Park the plane. Disconnect negative battery cable. After two months, connect negative battery cable. Fly plane. AGM batteries (e.g. Concorde) self-discharge at 1-2% per month.