Browncbr1

thanks for the heads up. Will definitely open carefully with my A/P

it's a big vertical stab! in a left cross wind, I find it took getting used to countering weather-vane, torque, and p factor at the same time... also, as the front end lightens, the steerable wheel has less authority... so, I noticed i have to mash more rudder as the nose lifts... It doesn't seem to be as much in a right cross wind, as some of those forces seem to counter each other automatically..

Thank you... Mooney finally got back to me and told me this is a H&E made unit and they are out of business. They wanted to sell me a retrofit kit with a new unit...

Pic

Does anyone know what model p/n this is? I need seals and screen for clean out and rebuild, but I don't see any part numbers on this ... Thank you! 67' F

I don't doubt it was CIA one bit. Where's Timmy?!?

I read somewhere that mooney put out a retrofit kit or SB on the tank tabs. Problem is that they don't seem very intuitive. Somewhere on the forum I saw someone noted that on 32gal tanks, the bottom of the hole in the tab is 25gal usable... I think he said the tip of the tab is 5 or 7 gal less?? I can't remember. Just fill them up!!

Reminds me of my uncle who drives his car either pedal to the floor or foot off the pedal. Makes for a very uncomfortable ride. I always wonder when his engine or transmission will give out.

I don't see how it's possible to fly safely without managing trim. I'm not very experienced (less than 20hours in my mooney), but even I know that! I've been amazed at some of the things I've heard. For me, I've figured out to be 500 above TPA at about a mile or two out, trim for level flight, reduce power to decend and enter the pattern. Then set power to what ive figured out to work well and trim for hands off on down wind. If it's not properly trimmed, then my base and final are all out of whack and I have to correct with multiple power changes and excessive yoke pressure. It makes for an inconsistent unsafe situation in my opinion. I'm really surprised that a CFI could say trim is not needed!!

The setup that I was talking about actually had the electric heater inside the cabin. Just about 6" of 8" HVAC pipe was taped to the front and back of the heater so the heater couldn't get too close to anything. Good point about condensation. I would be cautious to use such a system with anything other than low humidity. Thanks for making that great point!

The previous owner of my F was in Minnesota and he used a space heater with some HVAC ducts with Aluminum tape on the intake and exhaust of the heater, so it was impossible for anything to get close enough to get too hot. He said up there, gyros will go bad if he didn't do this. There was a thermostat on it and he would turn it on well in advance. He was comfortable leaving it on without being there with it. He let it run for about 6 hours before flying, but I don't think he had the temp set very high. It was nice getting into a warm cabin too.

I'm in the same situation. I was nearly ready to buy the ari cowl for my 67F, but realized I would have to get the 201 spinner and backplate. The extra cost of those put the whole idea out of my head. Hope you can make this work with non-201 spinners!

Thank you all for so much help. Once this ice storm passes, I'll have a look at the wires, connections, and try to see if the comm antenna is well grounded.

Thanks jet. I'll look for the comm coax and see if I can get them switched.

Hi jet, yea, that was my thought too... Switch antennas and see.... Is it a simple plug on the back of the racks that I can easily swap?? I'm thinking I better just pull it out so I can learn more about that stuff

Thanks for the input Larry.

I'll take the brittain stuff. Pm sent

hello all, I seem to have a very weak KX170B or a not so good antenna. Does anyone know how I could correctly identify if it is the antenna/connections, or the box? I seem to pick up VOR, but much later and higher altitude than my KX155 or KN64. I can't seem to get any Comm on the 170B. I was going to put in a 430w, but given the high prices these days, I think I'm going to just going to get this #2 nav/com working again. At least for a little while. I've looked at McCoys, but figured that I would rather that money go towards something else. It seems I can get this thing overhauled for $200-300 Any suggestions on things to check before pulling the radio out for overhaul? Cheers Craig

wouldn't that generate a lot of heat, which was the problem all along?

I am not very experienced, but I tell you what seems to work for me. with full flaps, I keep throttle at 19" on downwind. This stabilizes as 90mph.. When turning base, I reduce and don't look at anything but the numbers and other traffic.. I just feel it... on short final, I glance and usually see about 80mph... With half flaps, I use the same power settings (maybe an inch less) and it yields maybe 5mph more, so the ground float is longer.. I have no problem landing on 3500' either way.

I did danm20c's solution. The parts arrived in two days for $11. Super easy little project. After reinstalling, I found that they don't dim. They are either on or off. I'm not sure of that is the wiring in my headliner though. It must have been messed with at some point because just the pilot knob turns in both lights. The copilot side knob doesn't do anything.

Cool! Thanks!

Any suggestions on a good DG for a frugal bastard?

I've still got some things to do before getting IR. One step at a time. Haha. I have the original yoke clock also under the timer. The timer has a digital clock also.

thanks for the input all. I have a digital clock on the yoke. I'll try to get up in there with a tape measure. Meanwhile, any recommendations on a DG if it fits?