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Everything posted by DXB
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This is interesting - they switched back to 100LL due to excess valve seat recession. Particularly disappointing is the lack of reduction on plug fouling. I wonder how 100UL will fare… https://www.avweb.com/aviation-news/citing-valve-damage-und-drops-unleaded-fuel-and-returns-to-100ll/?fbclid=IwAR13GIS5xzSIEX9W1ewJoa9La-ZAsYdXP5rJPVylJa2aHbKHWrjfDuPYWNk
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During my last two annuals, it's been pointed out to me (I believe correctly) that my front crankshaft seal is leaking, but the amount of oil I've seen in my cowl when I do oil changes has been modest, and I saw no urgency to addressing this issue. The issue has progressed now to the point that after I leave the plane sitting for a week after flying it, I'll find small puddles of oil on top of my airbox and at the back bottom cowl, along with a few drops on my nose wheel. Overall oil consumption is not detectably changed, and everything else on the engine is quite dry of oil (excluding top of muffler, bottom of sump, and front of the carb as one would expect) . Until now, I saw no problem with waiting to change the seal. If it didn't get worse, it would get replaced at overhaul of my ~1650hr, 23yr SMOH O-360-A1D, which may not be too far off given the years on the engine. But now I wonder if an increasing oil leak from this location is gumming up my alternator and starter and will lead to other problems, or if it's on the cusp of becoming a really serious leak. The seal itself is a $25 part, but of course my Hartzell Top Prop (12 years, 1100 hours since new) will have to come off for the first time, making it a bigger job. The prop also has a slow leaking seal on one blade that I've watched for 4 years with minimal concern, but I think IRAN/overhaul for that along with replacing my crusty 23 year old alternator belt would be in order at the same time. Maintenance opinions from the experts?? I'm never cheap with things that matter, but I hate throwing money at problems that aren't really problems - been there, done that, never again.
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Good to have you back BTW… Only a few folks experience the “second sight”improved distance vision based on eye lens refractive index change, and it is an early sign of cataract formation so it is short lived. It can occur in longstanding presbyopic (farsighted) people and some 20/20 vision folks but not the vast numbers of us who are myopic. As far as glasses, I’m partial to progressives where the middle power field lets me read the panel and the high power field lets me read the ipad mini on the yoke. I’ve as yet to find the perfect fit but will follow up on some of the suggestions in this thread….
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Surefly is a quicker simpler cheaper and more modular install over Electroair - I think most folks have been going in that direction for certified electronic ignition since it came out. Durability and reliability seem to far exceed that of a regular mag, with lower long term cost since no 500 hr IRAN/overhaul. Much easier starts, particularly in cold. Clearly greater leaning ability despite the sloppy mixture distribution of the C. Only question is whether to use fixed timing setting vs. variable timing setting, with latter providing greater power and efficiency - I've been thinking of going back to fixed timing setting due higher CHTs in cruise. Unfortunately you have to remove the Surefly to change the timing setting switches,
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Stock C model is a 140kt machine. A very well modded one can be 150kt+. Totally different animal than a C210 in many ways, so rarely does one comparison shop between the two.
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Interesting PIREP. When I did a Powerflow in my '68C the first thing I noticed was dramatically better takeoff power with a better climb rate. However, I also noticed higher CHTs in climb, which I mitigated by very shallow climb until above 120mph, then stay at >120mph as long as practical to maintain a good climb rate. I also got faster speeds (solidly >150kt TAS) and higher CHTs in cruise, but I added a variably timed Surefly so I'm not sure how much the Powerflow contributed there - it definitely contributed to power in initial climb as the Surefly stays in fixed timing until MP drops below 24. I rarely cruise above 9k so I can't vouch for it up there - interesting regarding its tuning for 11k and 2450. I'll have to try it sometime. I don't see a bump in MP you describe - I imagine that's the Challenger filter? I don't see how the exhaust would cause that. FWIW I did a Donaldson filter at the same time, which supposedly provides better filtration with comparable airflow to the Challenger.
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Mower Operator Killed Near Runway
DXB replied to GeeBee's topic in Mooney Safety & Accident Discussion
The second article linked sounds like he tried to take off to avoid her, making me think he was very early in the roll out after landing when he spotted her. She may have obliviously started crossing the runway right as he was touching down, and it's hard to blame him if that's the case, but who knows for sure from the limited info. -
Once you've got the approach loaded, the chart previously briefed, and panel set up with key info including minimums, then sure no problem, particularly if it's a precision approach. Telling the controller anyway about the issue is probably a good idea here. But it doesn't sound like that was the case in this instance. Even if rated, current, and proficient, I'd ask for a delaying vector to try to get the chart back unless there was minimum fuel or some other issue pressing me to get on the ground. If unsuccessful and without an easy VFR out, I'd ask the controller to talk me through the key chart info - which I suspect neither of us would interpret as a non-event since the regs require you to have the charts. If the controller had a high workload, I could see this leading to a phone number to write down at the end.
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Once I’ve got the panel fully set up and am getting vectored on a precision approach I mostly agree; however, even then I have had a controller screw up in a way that would have been hard to deal with without plate loaded up so I could challenge with confidence. Before I’ve got the panel set fully up and the plate briefed, I’d most likely ask for I delaying vector so I could pull up the plate on my backup and start over.
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How so? Certainly wouldn't be for me...
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Yikes, probably much more that's going wrong here besides an ipad losing charge. However it does affirm my decision to carry to separate ipad minis with chartes up to date and their own charging hookups at all times. Kudos to the controller.
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Spin on oil filter busted at the seams
DXB replied to woodman86's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Thank goodness this didn’t happen in flight no easy landing spot at hand. I’d be pretty peeved at the person who installed the remote filter adapter if the hoses are indeed backwards. Agree this thread belongs in the safety section, and everyone with one of these remote adapters should check the hose setup. I imagine this hose reversal also makes to check the wrong side of the filter element for debris, and I wonder if it reduces filtration efficiency. -
Spin on oil filter busted at the seams
DXB replied to woodman86's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Then again, @woodman86 it certainly sounds like it could be this issue! I’ll stop freaking out for the moment. -
Spin on oil filter busted at the seams
DXB replied to woodman86's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
How in the world would that be an “underlying problem of the aircraft”?? Also I’d imagine the extreme oil pressure needed to break the housing of a (non-defective) filter would damage other components as well. And why would it ever happen at 70F ?? Also if you’re getting an engine heater for really cold days, get a Rieff or Tanis heater that heats both the sump and the cylinders - much better for the engine, worth the added expense. -
Not sure how "modern" my STEC-30 pitch servo would be considered, but it was almost brand new when a certain MSC fogged my tail with Corrosion-X without protecting it. Nothing could get it to work reliably for months (my avionics guy sees it often, he tried a couple of safe solvent sprays), and I was too stubborn to remove a new servo and send it back to be serviced. I think ultimately the stuff wore off of it after several months, and it became reliable again.
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A 175 will have much longer service life and value when you sell the plane over a 430.
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Potential upgrade to a 1965 M20C. Am I crazy?
DXB replied to EfficientFlying's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
The plane you've described is totally appropriate for the outlined missions, as long as the single back seat adult (or rapidly growing child) doesn't mind being slightly cramped. 3 full size adults plus full fuel and bags will get you right up to gross weight and may require slight adjustments in fuel load, but not at all prohibitive. You will want to check the useful load on the particular plane of interest, since there can be wide variation among old C's. The pilot also seems totally appropriate for the plane as long as close attention to transition training and an appropriate instructor are available. As far as prebuy, check the spar and the steel cockpit cage first, then go ahead with rest of inspection if you find those ok. -
In my (admittedly limited) experience, finding oil on the top plug of one cylinder and a pool of oil inside it is pretty much a smoking gun for which one is the offender and needs to get pulled off. That's very frustrating that this one was IRAN'd a mere 40 hours ago. I think it's standard to rehone the cross hatch and change the rings whenever a cylinder comes off? I don't see much cross hatch here, and maybe there's some deep scuffs.
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As a related anecdote, my 3 month avionics refresh in 2015 was immediately followed by need to rework 2 cylinders at annual. I took it to the avionics shop with fresh Aeroshell W100 + Camguard in the engine. If I had to do it again I would probably use a dehydration system of some kind also. The heavier weight oil also in principle runs off the components more slowly.
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Definitely long enough, most of break-in for a new steel cylinder happens in the first 1-2 hours. When you ran it hard initially, you should have seen the temps be too high for 30 min or so then drop back to normal rapidly. Leaving out CG is good practice for break in of a cylinder, but in reality the anti-scuff additive in it probably wouldn't have made much difference. You definitely want an anti-corrosive additive like CG contains in Phillips XC if the plane is gonna sit in the avionics shop because that oil lacks any such additive. You could go with one of the other anti-corrosive options mentioned above. A dehydration system would be desirable to prevent corrosion if the plane could be down for months in the shop
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My engine is getting long in the tooth (only 1700-1800 hrs but 23+ years). It may force my hand one day soon, and even if not, I feel like going past 25 years becomes a gamble in the absence of sufficient data. Since new cylinders are backordered out to a year, it seems like a no brainer to get in line for four of them. What about other engine components? I want to orchestrate things in advance for speed and efficiency when the plane ultimately goes down for overhaul.
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Miss him great guy
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The only improved new one I was aware of as a drop in replacement is from CJ Aviation. That one still has a sticker on it that says do not run dry. Sounds like the Aeromotors ones are better still.
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Pro tip based on recent experience to spare you my pain once you get the replacement installed: The fuel in the lines around the pump will drain out during the swap, possibly creating an air lock that will prevent it from generating fuel pressure at the transducer. Don't run the pump dry for more than a few seconds. Instead pump the throttle (carb accelerator pump) with the pump on and mixture in to pull fuel into the carb bowl. Once you see fuel pressure starting to rise, cut the mixture before it floods, and let fuel pressure come up to top of gauge before turning the pump off. Check everything below for leaks at this point before closing it up and firing up.
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Just went through same, it died shortly thereafter. Details on replacement options posted here: