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Aerodon

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Aerodon last won the day on June 11 2023

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Looking for a 252 to replace Seneca
  • Reg #
    N4167Z
  • Model
    PA18, C172, PA34

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  1. If there were two different propellers listed on the type certificate, the logbook entry would be simple, removed 2 bladed prop, installed 3 bladed, update W&B etc. How is an encore conversion any different, it’s a configuration change, not a modification to the type certificate. It’s a series of changing one part for another, including the POH, complete with factory instructions. Don
  2. The double puck conversion is by far the most expensive part of the conversion, new master cylinders, new calipers, new gear leg to flip the pucks from front to back, new gear doors. Without these, you do not have a legitimate Encore in my opinion. The balance weights are relatively minor, but the stabilizer does require some trimming. I can tell from pictures whether these have been done or not. the Vne does not change, gross weight might have some influence on flutter speeds, but I think production line convenience was part of it. The engine changes are minor if you do it smart. There’s a reason this is an expensive upgrade. Don
  3. Just asking, would a GTX345R with an internal GPS controlled by a GI-275 MFD work? Complete standalone system? Replace the comm antenna with a combined GPS com antenna? Or one of the wingtip / tail mounted ADSB out systems? Don
  4. That drawing is for the dual cylinder brakes (dual puck). And other components not mentioned above: airspeed indicator, manifold pressure gauge, tachometer and new POH. EDM900 or other engine monitor takes care of the engine gauges. Glass panel takes care of the airspeed. I got a new POH from Mooney. Don
  5. I decided to go all in and do a full panel. Pro's and cons of doing 1 piece / 2 piece / 3 piece panel. But now I have enough templates to send out for you to trial fit, then I can cut a final to your specifications. Aerodon
  6. The governor, fuel pump, manifold pressure controller and wastgate controller are different part numbers. I send mine in for overhaul and conversion. They are basically the same units with different settings and small internal changes. The governor has a different internal spring. There is also an extra support bracket for the turbo. As mentioned above, new wheel spindles, double puck brakes, new master cylinders, new brake bell cranks on the master cylinders. (these have a very minor angle change). Balance weights - same as long bodies. I see many Encore conversions without these. My understanding is they took the parts off the production line in the mid nineties to build an Encore. New inner gear doors - these have to be from Mooney. Don
  7. I have the one the mounts on the side of the magneto. I suspect the other one is the more common 'tach generator' that mounts on the tacho drive? I have both th tachometer and sense, the wiring is the same, so maybe change both? Aerodon
  8. My understanding is that if you order a factory reman, then you get an engine for slightly less $$, but may have mostly new parts anyway. In the past, urban legend has it that some people received new engines. Perhaps if you offered to pay a 'new engine price' but would accept a 'reman engine', that would allow them to put that used part on? Or, I have a mostly complete TSIO360MB1 that could be overhauled. Or be used to donate parts to have yours overhauled? Aerodon
  9. After a few iterations I think I have perfected a flush mount system for a Garmin Aera 760. Gizmo's make a nice panel dock - the problem with a M20J/K is that the RHS stack is very tight and it's difficult to fit a 6.25" wide item in. The 760 is 7.4x4.9" and fits really nicely on the co-pilots side. I used a standard 760 cradle mounted on a plate set back from the panel. There is a lever to pop the 760 out of the panel (lanyard to follow). No power button, but the 760 comes on and turns off when power is removed. I have enough glass and gadgets on the pilot's side, this is for my co-pilot to watch traffic etc. And I had to fill the space with something. Let me know if I can make one for you.... Aerodon
  10. I do have a system ready to go. I replaced a WX10A system in my 252, the factory did a really bad job of installing the antenna. They cut the 3M doubler in half and installed both sides of the centre and then they cut the hole too close to the centre join. My guy did a good job of the NY163 installation, left the one half of the old doubler in place. Made a new doubler for the other side and riveted in place. Not the neatest, but the best we could do with what we had to work with. The M20K had the antenna installed beneath the KFC autopilot servo's. The later model Mooneys have batteries over there, so the WX500 antenna is installed one bulkhead further back. Lessons from Garmin magnetometer tests: Run new grounds from tail light strobes and lights to 'in front' of the magnetometer. I did this just to make sure my LED tail light does not create storm scope interference, but I have found them to be fairly insensitive to electrical noise inside the plane. Aerodon
  11. Garmin supply a list of the parts you need to install a GFC500 in your plane. These are standard hardware items, nothing special, but you will struggle to find them all in one place and end up spending hours finding them and pay many times more than they cost for shipping. I've done the homework and ordered from reputable suppliers, let me know if you want a set. If you have a KFC150 or 200, you are allowed to use most of the roll servo components and do not need new pulleys. I also have a surplus Garmin 'roll servo install kit'. This will allow you to get a head start on the roll installation, it is probably the most tedious part of the M20K installation. Make sure your installer is on board with all of the above, some shops don't like you bringing the steak and asking them to grill it for you. Aerodon
  12. Maingear, or main and nose? All the linkages, or just the gear legs? Aerodon
  13. You can find the cleveland catalogue on line. Find the correct wheel for your plane, then click on the part number and it takes you to a breakdown of all parts. Typically it will list the parts for A,B,C in a table, with different part numbers for some of the components. It could be a different bearing, different wheel half etc.
  14. Terry, thanks for doing this. You have confirmed what I have thought all along, that there are some optimum points to choose for calibrating a FQ gauge. JPI allows the selection of between 2 and 5 calibration points, and I assume it does straight line interpolation between them. There are some obvious things happing here. Your fuel sticks don't show anything because the file has not reached the botton of the stick at the filler hole. I assume the inboard fuel sensor will start reading at the unusable fuel. I selected 5 points, 0,10,25,42.5,52.5 G, then plotted straight lines between them. I think I will get a much more accurate fuel gauge if I use these points rather than say equal spacing of 0,13,26,39,52. The blue line is your fuel hawk (inboard, then outboard) The orange line is a series of 5 straight lines. I'm not quite sure what happened at the top of your table, did you get 55G and not record the Fuelhawk stick, or did you only get 52.5 in? Don
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