Jim F

Hi 231DF, Do you see exhaust stains at that slip joint? Is it the joint in front at the prop? Slip joints can leak when cold and tend to seal when hot, the inside pipe expands a little more than the outer pipe. If this joint is leaking, then I would inspect the joint and unfortunately to do that you need to drop both sides of the exhaust. You want to make sure that the inner pipe has not been heat damaged. If the joint is solid but just a little loose then use exhaust wrap just on this joint and held the one or two wraps in place with safety wire. Ask you A&P if he is cool with the wrap. You will need to cut the safety wire and slide away from the joint to inspect during the annual. Jim F

When the gear is down, I want drag, and when the gear is up the hub cap in not in the airflow, it's next to the upper wing skin. No thanks

I think that's lead too

Don't forget that the cylinder rocker boss needs to be flat too. Use a small flat file (brake off a 2inch section) so you can get it in the nooks. Use your finger to push the file around the cover mating surface. A high spot will show and needs to be worked until flat. For the stamped steel covers use a small hammer to get the area around the screw hole flat and then find a surface plate, sheet of glass, something flat and set a sheet of sandpaper and lightly move in a figure 8. This will show highs and lows and work so they are consistent. Jim

All the time is good. Look at the intake tubes and touch them. Most of the time a leaking intake pipe will show blue stains around it even if injected. Pay attention to the metal tube that are swaged into the oil sump, look for stains or run and spray WD40 where the tube goes into the oil sump, at idle the rpm will increase. caution (moving prop) Look at all exhaust studs. Pressurize the intake and exhaust with the pressure side of a clean shop vac spray soapy water. Move from easy to hard

you say after a flight and after fueling. Does that mean you hear it after landing and before fueling and after fueling? Kind of hard to hear or maybe it's my ears. Un-cowl and try to get it to repeat. You can close in on where a noise is coming from by using a stethoscope or long screw drive with the handle pressed on your ear. You're working around a moving propeller so be careful and you need someone on the breaks. Place the blade on a what you think is making the noise. The most common noise after starting is usually a hung Bendix drive on the starter. You can start the engine and if you hear the noise shut it down. Look at the Bendix if it's still out (Fwd) its sticking. Clean with contact cleaner and load is up with silicone spary (zero hydrocarbons - oils), this might take multiple application

Hi Paul, I agree that too tight of end gap is most likely the cause, but I would think this would happen in the first 10 hours or so. Not sure i saw the time on this cylinder, but that piston looked like it had more the 300hr on it.

Is there a flight that you remember the oil consumption significantly increase? If so, download the flights just before and send to Savvy and maybe post here. You dont see a lot of broken rings.

Then you were making close to rate power. So i would concur with KSMooniac and ErikJ you would not see a difference in EGT or CHT. The oil went into the combustion chamber and was burnt during the power cycle. Any idea what caused the rings to break?

Well that's interesting, Were you able to make static RPM (~2650rpm) on the runway before take off (before you start rolling)? I would think the EGT and CHT would be low and static RPM would be ~100rpm low

There is one more option to get more clearance, but it has some pit falls. You can release the push rod cover spring clip and push the push rod forward until it hits the push rod. This can give you +.100 additional clearance. make sure you pull the case and cylinder push rod cover seals out of there recesses and spray with pure silicone spray and reseat the push rod cover and reset the spring (both clips)

Offset box end wrench. Some grinding might be necessary. Yes, on fire sleeve. As Skip said, flammable =fire sleeve

What was the unmetered fuel pressure and EGT at 2700, & 34"MAP. The fuel metering unit (throttle body), flow divider, and nozzles are all that's left. When your mechanic increased the unmetered fuel pressure did you see any increase in fuel flow?

I have lots of borescope experience. I don't see the valve seat transition, that tells me that there are deposits built up. It's a little bit of an odd place for a crack, but don't put too much in that statement. I would fly your AC at a high-power setting and take another look. Also, before i would pull the jug I would drop the exhaust and look at the port position side of the potential crack position. Jim

You can use a J-hook pic or a small diameter door hook

I think the 231 and Encore are the same part. Here is a pic, its aluminum and should be painted

YES, Air racing Formula 1 requires a cable between the cylinders bases to the engine mount. Back in the 80s a blade failed, and the engine tore loos from the mounts. The engine was hanging from the hoses. Without the weight of the engine, you are no longer controllable. Jim

This week I had a similar problem but with the bulkhead fitting 4 ft aft. After 44 years the line pulled out of the forward side of the bulkhead fitting. As PT20J states, this is the line that heads aft to the reservoir in the tail access panel. When the brake pads wear, and the brake pucks move out a bit there is more hydraulic fluid in the caliper. The master cylinders will pull hydraulic fluid from this line and the reservoir. If air gets into the system, it's a challenge to get out. When you reconnect the line, you can try to push hydraulic fluid back to the reservoir by pushing in one or both caliper pucks. this will push fluid back to the reservoir. On my K the slope back to the reservoir is not all uphill so I need to work it a bit. I will put a slight vacuum on the reservoir plug fitting to pull the air into the reservoir. My guess is that the line shrunk a bit, and the factory ty-wraps were too tight, and the line slid out of the bulkhead fitting. Jim

I would check for an intake or exhaust leak.

I would make sure your baffle seal is in good shape and not leaking air past the fins. As most above state, setting the fuel flows correctly is a must for our 231 engines. If your CHTs are getting to 460dF you will be doing(paying) top overhauls every 300-600 hours, so rethink that part of the POH. Crazy part on PoH is there are written when our aircraft was new, but they have zero updates on a better way to run your engine. This is where MS can help save you and your engine. We have learned an incredible amount over the years on proper fuel flow set up and heat control to extend cylinder life. High heat & high pressure kills our cylinders. Thank you, Mike Bush, and Paul Kortopates (he is here on MS) for helping get the word out. My GB(no intercooler/no waste gate) fuel flows are set to 25.7gpm at 2700RPM, 40inMP. I takeoff and climb at 100% power to altitude (normally 16K-17K). That gets me a TIT of ~1425dF, and CHTs 300dF - 330dF This max fuel flow is 1gpm higher than the TC SID97-3G calls out (24.7gpm) but is an accepted change first pushed by RAM aircraft and everyone that knows our engines. If my CHTs in the climb are approaching 380dF on a hot day I increase air speed. If its 110dF OAT I am climbing at ~500ft min. My engine is at 1950hrs and two jugs were changed before I bought it(@1200hr) and I have changed one jug for a crack in the exhaust (due to a casting void). Jim

How about the rear black swoosh on the tail being purple metal flake and rear red swoosh being lambo burnt orange. Man I like both the burnt orange and purple together. Rear Bear

If you know that you have zero fuel in the cylinders, you know that the mags are grounded, the mixture is ICO, and the throttle is at idle you can pull the prop through by hand and see if you have compression. I would also do a cold compression check. I don't think I have ever heard of a valve sticking after a teardown, but they might not have pulled the valves during the IRAN. The broken spring is interesting and if you have one, I would pull the rocker cover and inspect all valve springs. good luck and let us know what you find Jim

This is what I do, and I agree that it seems to be the simplest. I made a foil lines bobble wrap cover for the cowl and I stuff the trouble light with an 100W incandescent bulb in the pilot's cowl flap. When i turn on the JPI all cylinders are ~60dF. If I am on the road or I got stuck out in the cold I swing buy a hardware store and buy a 3inch flexible dryer duct and stuff it in the cowl flap and the rental car exhaust. In 20min the entire engine is warmed up.

Any idea what sealant Cirrus uses on their tanks?