geoffb

If it's like mine, it makes an oil spot on the pilot's side carpet.

Here's what it looks like rough fitted.

The panel with the install kit was $325.85 plus shipping. It's a bit much for what it is, but Dan's usually got both 8 and 9 hole panels in stock and it's all done for you.

Great, thank you. Now to get out the drill. Geoff

I started working on fitting up my new LASAR 8-hole panel cutout and I've got a couple questions for the collective. I started reassembly on a Friday afternoon too late to call Dan to ask questions. So, on background, I've got LASAR's generic 8-hole panel and hardware kit. Looking at the original install and the new parts, it looks like you install the three standoffs on the top of the panel using existing holes. There's six shock mounts, so I'm assuming you use three on the top edge standoffs, and three at the bottom edge of the panel. Where I'm at a loss is the following (in no particular order): 1. I've got qty (3) Snubber Cap Inst Panel - this looks like it might fit over a shock mount, but I don't understand the purpose 2, I infer that there should be three mounts at the bottom edge of the new panel. However, the old panel only had mounts to the left of the control shaft bearing and at the bottom right corner. Do I need to add a hole at the bottom left corner? 3. Behind the top left instrument hole in the new panel, there is existing sheet metal of the old defrost/windscreen/glare shield shroud. There doesn't seem to be enough depth behind there even for the ASI. Does there need to be some trimming of that existing sheet metal? Thanks in advance, any and all voices of experience in this install are appreciated. I can get in touch with LASAR on Monday, but I'd like to make some progress on this over the weekend. Geoff

Mine ('66) matches the diagram

I dont go anywhere without flight following.

I don't see the need fore Bluetooth and I honestly have never felt comfortable with music playing in the headset while I'm flying. Headsets are mono so no need for stereo. The real motivation is to replace the old PS intercom and free up panel space in the process. N601RX, thanks for the heads-up on the mounting depth. I've got a Brittain AP, so I wouldn't be at the top of the stack. Initial install will probably be at the bottom of the stack as that's where the intercom currently resides. As far as King, Garmin and PSE, I think they are all PSE panels, aren't they?

DXB, drop me a PM.

Looking at a PMA6000B audio panel to replace my King KMA-12 and PS1000 intercom. The intercom is dying, or has died on me. Looks like the 6000B it at a good price/performance point and will help tidy the panel up. Anyone have any experience with these?

Don't know why you need a fancy integrated primary flight display for flying VFR, but that's just me. Guess I'll get in queue for the SAI340. One last question in this subject. Earlier FAA advisories allowed the replacement of the turn coordinator with an electric AI as long as you added a slip ball. Now we have guidance that you can replace the vacuum AI with electric as long as you meet the requirements in the new AC. So, if I add the SAI 340 and use it as my primary attitude instrument and keep the vacuum AI as backup, can I remove the turn coordinator from my panel and be in compliance?

Is the VFR PFD only certified for VFR use? And you don't get any HSI functionality with the VFR? If either of those things are true, I don't see any benefit in it for me.

The Sandia SAI340 seems to be exactly what I was hoping for in a second attitude instrument. Since the old E has a Brittain AP, everything but the turn indicator is vacuum. I've never been comfortable in the clouds with needle, ball and airspeed as my backup plan. So for $3k you get what looks to be a certified Dynon D10 EFIS install with a logbook entry. But as analysis paralysis sets in, I notice that the EFD1000 VFR is about $4.5k which if I understand it correctly, would allow me to dump the DG. No installed GPS, VORs and a handheld still have no problem getting me where I go. The Sandia definitely gets me what I want. Does the Aspen get me more without adding an IFR GPS? What am I missing?

Thanks, I'll take a look inside the housing.

My old Hoskins strobe supply went poof when one of the big electrolytic caps failed. Started on the CB route and found a service manual planning on trying to replace all the electrolytics, but decided that was a bad idea. So, ended up ordering one of the new Whelen replacements that comes with the amphenol connectors and is supposed to be plug and play for the Hoskins. I've got the wingtip strobes running, but am having issues with the old Hoskins combination position/strobe on the tail. It will flash for a while, then the tube will ionize (steady glow in the tube) and then all flashing stops on all three tubes. If I turn on the nav lights, the tail strobe immediately ionizes and all flashing stops. I've reviewed all the Whelen documentation which tells you that you need to remove the shield ground at the strobe end and have done that. I had to do some experimenting to get the connections to the old tail strobe tube correct with regards to anode/cathode/trigger and believe I have that correct now. The only thing I can come up with is the old Hoskins nav light appears to ground the bulb through the housing so there's only 4 wires, anode, cathode, trigger and positive for the nav light. Looking at the Whelen documentation for their combination nav/strobe tail fixture they show 5 wires coming out including a wire for the negative connection to the nav light. Is the fact that the old nav light is grounded through the housing giving my strobe supply fits?

I wondered why I never took the key out of my mag switch. Now remembering the hanger key when I leave the house, that's another matter.

Breaker is getting old. The reason it trips in flight is because on battery power the system is running at 11.8-ish volts (depending on total load) and with the generator on line the system is probably running at 13.5-14.0 volts so the nav light circuit is getting 15-20% more current with the engine running.

If you think a Mooney is expensive, look at Beechcraft parts. That will change your perspective. I've owned a 66E for 11 years that has had crappy paint and interior since I bought it, but a solid airframe, a good engine, fresh tanks from Wet Wingologists and a working Brittain AP. My first two annuals were eye openers at $3k and $5k. Both were owner assist but I had some deferred/overlooked items that needed to be addressed. Once a knowledgeable Mooney IA goes through the plane you can get it up to snuff and then just need to keep it that way. I'll be the dissenting opinion and suggest that you can find a solid airplane in the $30s in this economy. It will take a lot of shopping and looking at planes that end up being a disappointment. They won't have modern avionics. But my plane, with dual VORs and a handheld GPS gets me where I need to go. Living in the NW, my utility is limited more by lack of deicing that it is by its avionics suite. 10,000 ft+ MEAs do that to you. I now work with an IA that does annuals in my hanger. I do all the work under his supervision and I trust his thorough inspections and second set of eyes. But they still cost $800-$1,000 depending on what I need to address. These planes are simply more work than a less complex, fixed gear single. It takes me about 6 hours to get it opened for annual and about 10 hours to put it back together following annual. Mooneys can be a pain to work on due to the tight engine install. Parts are not expensive, as far as airplanes go. The cost if the intake connector boot will piss you off since it doesn't seem to last that long. If I need a Mooney part, either my IA or LASAR can often provide used. The rate at which these planes are getting scrapped/parted is making used airframe stuff more attractive. One thing I didn't see mentioned is your mission. Mooneys are the most efficient cross country traveling airplanes for a pilot or pilot +1. If you have places to go and pay your own bills, all the data points to a 4 cylinder Mooney. No other comparable plane can be operated for the same costs. Look at old Bonanzas, Commanches and Arrows. The Bo and Commanche 250/260 can meet the speed at 30% more fuel burn and 6 cylinders to care for and higher maint costs. The Arrow is slower on the same fuel. But, if you just fly for fun around home and maybe will take a vacation trip now and then, there are cheaper things to fly than any complex single.

Another Ledgedale alumni. Growing up my father kept his stuff there. He was based there until about 2011 if I remember right.

That's a sweet setup. Wish you could get them in a short body that easy....

Brittain keeps servos on the shelf for exchange. They don't even hit you for the core charge as long as you return yours within 30 days. So why deal with downtime?

Thread resurrection because it's time to do something about my oil temp gauge in the Garwin 169 series cluster. A web search showed that Sigma Tek owns that product line. I contacted customer support and they told me they still manufacture the modules and the back plane. I just sent in the part number for my oil temp and fuel level gauges. I'll report when I get a quote. Hopefully new modules can be sourced at a reasonable price. Also, contacted Kelley Instrument, and they said they can service them. Geoff

Just ordered a rudder servo from Brittain yesterday. $169/exchange. Shipped from stock.

Put me down for one of each. short time lurker, first time poster. Geoff