Ragsf15e

One other thing… if you’re ever considering doing a gfc500, just stay completely garmin, forget the ifd. There are plenty of people who have ifd’s working with gfc500, but enough horror stories that I wouldn’t go that route.

Yes, unfortunately, the previous racks (and potentially the antennas too) will have to be replaced, so it’s pretty good panel surgery. if you’re looking for options (I like garmin), Avidyne has a nice slide in touch screen option that would be half the price or less as it can use the 430w rack.

Very true, which is why I had to take my shot when I had it!

Yes. Then I’ll be crying for help, true enough.

Sometimes the hydraulic flaps make me smile…

If the rest of your panel is garmin, use a garmin (either -275 or g3x). I have a jpi 930 and like it a lot, but not everything integrates well with my other garmin stuff in the panel. -275(s) may require less panel surgery than other options as they can fit an existing instrument hole if you have one available.

Personally, I’m a fan of a little heat over a long time. I think applying a lot of heat for 15-20 minutes doesn’t actually heat the inside of the engine. Do I have proof? No. It just seems like a huge hunk of metal and oil isn’t going to warm evenly from a quick, hot “warmup”. Since the oil pan is exposed, potentially it does heat the oil which is good. I like to use a remote switch (mine is cellular but you can use wifi if available). I couple that with a small ceramic heater on low with a dryer vent pumped into the cowl flap. Typically turn it on 3+ hours (night before is good) before flying. Engine is evenly warmed even at very cold temps. It blows dry air as a bonus. If you’re on the ramp, you have less options, so a quicker, hotter heat is probably better than nothing. Or get a real engine heater and find a way to plug it in.

100% what @EricJ said. It’s likely that the vr and alternator are fine but you have a loose or corroded contact. Check the connections at the alternator first.

There was an Egypt Air suicidal pilot too… https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/EgyptAir_Flight_990

If you talk to Jimmy Garrison, as mentioned above, you will probably save yourself a lot of time. You might even save yourself money because he will save you from a bad airplane or at least tell you what you’re getting. If you explain to him what your mission is, he will validate, what type you’re looking for, and he will go find it if he doesn’t have one available.

New (to you) airplanes seem to know how to break…

I’ve had Old Republic for the last three years. I send them my check, they send me a document that says I’m insured. No other experience. I went through airspeed insurance. He’s here on Mooney space often. he said, old republic was at least as good as the one I had before, which was global. He knows the ins and outs of exactly what they cover, and how they handle claims.@Parker_Woodruff

You can check a few things like turning off the squelch to see if you hear them faintly or not at all and adjust volume based on static. If you don’t hear static, might also be a problem with your audio panel? Is there an “rx” receive indicator that shows when it’s receiving?

I really like using progressives and didn’t take long to get use to them after 45 years with no glasses. For me, everything is “far” except reading a map or phone, so the instrument panel is “far” and it’s easy to see it and outside.

Geez, @N201MKTurbo nailed that one from long range!

Welcome back!

Seen the movie Bat 21 though? Almost makes me want one… great (and little known) flying/war movie.

https://abcnews.go.com/Business/wireStory/ntsb-fedex-plane-disabled-landing-gear-suffered-leak-104185678 make sure your backup system is working when you have the chance!

Yours was probably built with electric gear from the start so maybe better coordinated. Mine is a 1968, built with a jbar but modified at the factory (before delivery) with electric gear. the interesting thing would be to know if your floor gear indicator dims, but I don’t think it will. It may already be dim with a 24v light in it?

And even that is only on newer models. Mine has the “cat eye” manual closure to “dim” the gear lights on the panel.

Yep, just realized that. Mine took a 336. Here’s the thread with pictures if it helps anyone.

Some are moded with different light receptacles too, mine took a very slightly different bulb. I think a GE327 but I’ll have to find the old thread.

Im not sure the floor light dims. I could be wrong (and mine is led so doesn’t dim with the stock nav dimmer). It looks like the vintage airplanes have power for the light wired directly to the down limit switch with nothing connected to a dimming circuit. Maybe in newer ones? Another thing to remember is that it’s only on when gear are down. I still wouldn’t want it to be blinding at night though…

I recently replaced my bulb with an LED version in my 14v system. It is very bright, and I like it a lot during the day, however, I do not fly very often at night. Be careful removing the light socket, but it sounds like you already did. The wires down there are easily breakable.

If 1 sensorcon is good, 2 is definitely better!