Ragsf15e

@AndreiC gave you the full details but the cliff notes are here… when lop, % power only depends on fuel flow. If you can run smoothly at wot and ff is below ~9.9gph, then you are less than 75% no matter your mp. It is important to ensure that you’re actually lop on all cylinders before using ff as the guide.

Dual e mags? Did they do the new dual Surefly STC with a dedicated electrical backup? I like the surefly, but two isn’t necessarily better than one…

If we’re going for easiest place to look and most often recently “touched”, I’d have a good look at the oil filter. There are a surprising number of ways to get distracted and not torque it properly. People make mistakes, it happens. The other thing that I’ve seen from this forum is that the check valves are very thin aluminum and if the wrong adel clamp is used or it’s badly positioned, you can wear a hole in the check valve. The higher pressure one would certainly pump out a lot of oil. I don’t think an internal failure of tge check valve would cause this though? Someone correct me if im wrong, but an internal failure of a check valve would just lead to the turbo leaking a bit when the engine is off. edit: there’s even an sb for the adel clamps and a specific type (with yellow fuel/oil resistant cushion) to use for the check valve s.

I don’t have anything to add, but please let us know what you find! Ive got an SB engine with 230 hours on it, so im definitely interested.

I used ~1250 in my F for target egt. Worked very well. When I arrived at cruise, that egt corresponded to ~150-200 ROP. So probably richer than the "old school" way which is what you'd want for climb, but it's too rich for cruise. Once you know that target egt, it makes leaning in the climb simple all the way up. Just be advised that a little change in mixture can make a big change in your chts on the way up. So if you find 1250 works well, but you try 1300 on a warm day, you might see some hot CHTs.

Or if that one is abs plastic, remove it, repair it with abs glue/putty, paint it, then reuse it.

If you’re putting g-5 or gi275s in, why do you want a separate gi106? You can wire two digital nav sources to both of those. If it’s because that’s not happening quite yet, just install the radio without the gi106. It’s still a nav “backup” as most of those display an obs type indicator. You would eventually want a real display for it, but that could be your g5/275.

Potentially keep the 430 as backup nav/com when you put in the 650 if there’s space? Otherwise, I would also want some sort of nav com as #2 for ifr.

Bunch of Washington based Mooneys got together for lunch at Yakima yesterday. 5 of us showed up and we parked next to a resident Mooney to make it 6! Good food at Reno’s by the Runway, but it’s mighty warm in Yakima this time of year and there’s not much indoor seating!

KCOE is much better except my hanger is at Felts…

I know you should go ~straight if you loose power low, but some places there is a lot of pressure to turn. I haven’t flown into Nampa but I’ve seen it, and I don’t think there’s many fields off at least one end. Mostly light industrial and housing. My home airport is like that too (ksff). I hope I never have to deal with that.

Mt Ranier is still impressive from 50 miles away! Nice tailwind on the way home from the awesome Evergreen Aviation Museum (and water park) in Mcminnville. You can see the Spruce Goose, an F-4 with 2 kills, and an SR71 and then go down some good water slides that exit from a real 747 on the roof!

Sometimes the coordination between class b, c, d is like they’re “one entity”, sometimes not. Usually the main airport under a c/b works like that (and should), but I’ve found lots of variation for outlying fields under an airspace (like kapa, ksff, or kttd). If im getting close to the class d without being prompted, ill ask for changeover unless approach is telling me about traffic or restricting me for some reason. Going into/out of ksff, it’s pretty quiet, so Spokane approach to either tower (kgeg or ksff) is like one entity. At kttd, Portland approach doesn’t do anything for you and there appears to be no coordination between approach/tower. It’s not technically required if you’re already talking to approach, but I’d want handed off before entering the D. There are some “LOAs” between tower/approach on when and where they should hand you off and what airspace tower actually owns vs approach that we aren’t always aware of.

I agree. We had to spend ~30k to have “diversity” installed on our company PA-46T since we occasionally fly to Canada and go above 18k. Kinda overkill in the normal places we go (Calgary), but all to make the satellites work right!

Depending on how much work you want to do and how much money you’re going to spend, you’ll need to be careful about this. What are you going to use for your waas gps source? What are you going to display your adsb-in info on? These two questions will guide your process. Potentially the easiest way to go will be something like the wingtip nav light adsb out solution (uavionix skybeacon) coupled with a sentry or similar portable adsb-in that will display on an ipad. The skybeacon has its own internal waas gps and will work with your current transponder. If you’re interested in a panel display, that will lead to a much different discussion.

No. The customer service person thought it was the serviceable gear that reduced it to $4300. Instead, i was still charged $850 for that gear (it was ~$1000 new), and they didn’t charge for the new shaft. He was pretty surprised as well when I called and pointed out that the price reduction was from not getting a new shaft and not from the serviceable gear. They didn’t charge me for anything I didn’t get, they just didn’t do what we agreed.

Agreed. Also, I think I kept a pretty cool, reasonable persona throughout, but the way the service manager spoke to me, I would never have them work on anything for me again. It was pretty bad.

Yes, and yes, I am pursuing a reduction in the price. We’ll see how it goes. To be fair, they didn’t charge me for a new shaft, they just didn’t do what i had approved, so that’s a little harder to put a $$ amount on.

So here’s my story with G&N… sent them my SA. About 1 week later they called with a tear down report and said almost everything internal was trash. Specifically, all the gears, shaft and spring. I had read through the logs and found that this was at least the 3rd time it had been rebuilt so I wasn’t shocked. They said rebuilding it would cost $5200 with a new shaft, spring and gears or they said they were looking into an oh/exchange for $2500 (but were still waiting on details). They were somewhat surprised when I told them to go with all new parts (and $5200 vs oh/ex) because I wanted reliability and the ability to repair it in the future instead of the unknown of an exchange. They said ok, 4 weeks. I had already researched the shaft and knew Niagra had them in stock ($1100) and told G&N. Fast forward 3.5 weeks, I get a call saying it’s done, but there’s one gear that they couldn’t get in time so they sold me a serviceable one they had and reduced the price to $4300. It arrived and we installed it. It works. However, as I was putting away all the paperwork, I looked through their parts list and realized that a new shaft wasn’t on there and the spring is a .04 undersized which is actually smaller than i thought they could go but apparently not. I called them and the person I had been dealing with the whole time was just as surprised as me, because he was the one that told me my shaft was not serviceable and had been ground down too many times. He went to talk to the service manager and called me back about 20 minutes later. Apparently, after I approved all the new parts, they said they couldn’t find a new shaft and then they looked at mine again and decided they could grind it down within limits, so they did. Unfortunately, they never told me any of this. If I knew I was going to get a shaft that was on its last legs, I probably would’ve gone with an overhaul exchange to save time and money. They offered to warranty the labor for one year, but I said I wanted longer than that. The customer service person said I would have to call the service manager as he was the one that could approve that. When I called him, he was just unprofessional and yelled at me for being unreasonable. I feel like I should have approved the change in plans for the parts, and that might have changed my plan on what to approve new versus exchange. Am I being unreasonable with this? and so apparently @kortopates was right, and I should have sent it to Western skyways. However, they never returned my phone calls, so there’s that. It’s tough to find a shop that does both good work and customer service unless you can participate in the actual work and keep an eye on it.

After cleaning the check valves (and apparently reassembling them correctly?) my exhaust seems much drier between flights. Is it worth it to stop a small annoyance? Not sure, as the check valves are very expensive and possibly not easily obtained and it seemed possible to break them and or reinstall them wrong while taking them apart to clean.

So i tried this morning after flying. I selected comm 1 and set comm 2 radio on atis. I then pulled the CBs for comm 1 (gtn750). The audio panel didn’t auto switch to comm 2. So I pulled the audio panel cb… no luck. Can someone else who has comm 1 wired as comm 2 see if their remote audio panel will switch over when the GTN fails?

So Ive got my airplane back from the starter adapter saga and the breather situation is much better. I cleaned out the crankcase tube, oil/air separator, rerouted the return line and (most importantly) have been departing with 5.5-6qts on the dipstick. Oil temps and pressure are good, and there’s no more oil out the breather. Poh says 5 qts min to depart, so this seems like a reasonable amount for my engine as it only burns 1qt in 10hours.

Which clamp did you end up getting? The RAM one fit yours?

Before long you’ll have a new engine!

That part number isn’t available yet. The one for mb/sb engines is available as a new part number and riveted. Having to be able to log the specific hours on the old ones would have been a problem for me as mine wasn’t logged when it was changed last time or ever?