kmyfm20s

When I do a quick turn around hot start as soon as I get in the cockpit and the prop is clear I push the mixture and throttle in and let it sit there until I get everything situated for take off. When I'm ready to star I put the throttle at idle and pull the mixture back out. I go through my startup check list as usual but DON'T PRIME. When it starts up its runs like it was never shut down. My theory is it allows all the vaporized fuel to purge out of the lines and removes the air bubbles. It also doesn't flood the engine. Try it, I learned it here on MS on another thread and has worked perfectly.

Adj. 1. ham-fisted - lacking physical movement skills, especially with the hands; "a bumbling mechanic"; "a bungling performance"; "ham-handed governmental interference"; "could scarcely empty a scuttle of ashes, so handless was the poor creature"- Mary H. Vorse bumbling, butterfingered, ham-handed, heavy-handed, handless, bungling, left-handed maladroit - not adroit; "a maladroit movement of his hand caused the car to swerve"; "a maladroit translation"; "maladroit propaganda"

Got to learn sometime:) I would buy!

Beautiful! Which camera is your favorite so far and why?

LOL, that's funny! I'm handsome, smart, funny, a great maintenance expert and gosh darn it people love me! No offense Cliffy, your just not coming off very humble with your contributions. Maybe a new thread with a new approach. I do appreciate your contributions.

You might want to change that you have 2008 Ovation 3 GX listed under your avatar. I'm not sure what is all in tailed going from the 2500 rpm 280 hp to the 2700 rpm 310 hp. But if it's a prop, top end and a STC I would consider it. I would just plan on going past TBO. If you plan on flying 100 hours a year and go to 2300 hours on the engine, you have 7 1/2 years of engine remaining.

If you just got the plane I would get to know it first. Practice your engine managment skills and who knows the compressions will most likely go up. When I bought my plane the compressions ranged from 71-74 and after 6 months of flying they went up to 79's. I don't know what cylinders cost for your engine but you could just top it and fly to 2300hrs.if the economics work out.

I would just have them double check. I can't tell from what you said above but if you are carburated and your #1 cylinder was 470 and the same EGT probe goes blank and your MP line connect to #1. You will have a induction leak causing a lean mixture and low FF. I could be totally off and it's just your guage.

The line for the MP guage most likley came loose or not tightened on install, on my plane it goes to #1 cylinder. I would be concerned about the low fuel flow at 13.5 gph and the hot cylinders. Is that as rich as you can go?

Wouldnt your induction system leak to the outside with a turbo or is there still negative pressure? The silicone doesn't bond it into place it is still very flexible and gives. It was an amazing difference in my particular plane. My EGT difference went from 110df at idle to 30df and I can go way deeper LOP in flight and runs much smoother. PTK, I agree you don't need GAMI's if you spreed is good and all other variables are taken care of IMHO as well.

The groove on the out side.

It's funny how many mechanics frown on LOP when they should really embrace it. If I was a mechanic I would love all the business of fine tuning the ignitions, fuel and induction systems so the plane will run LOP correctly. Those silicone o-ring are a very tight fit but unfortunately with my brand new ones they can leak. I discovered it after I couldn't get my engine to stop stumbling at idle and I could run LOP some flights and not on others. My cylinders would also vary on which one would peak first each flight. After consulting with a few locals that where familiar with the IO-360 it was suggested using the silicone. After putting some silicone around the o-ring I went out the next day fired up the engine and ran prefect but then started to stumble again. After shutting it down went back out and looked and some of the silicone apparently didn't set up all the way and was pulled into the seal. I removed it and reapplied it and made sure it really set up and ran it again. Worked great! All supervised by my Mx.

Tighten all your intake bolts and silicone the seals where the intake tubes enter the area below the oil sump. I found that i had intake leaks after i was unable to run LOP as i normally had done. Your injector should ideally be turned 180 to have the letter in the deeper recess of your cylinder. How it is positioned now the fuel can drain out side the injector after priming and shutdown.

Wow, that was heavy stuff!

Always check any through bolts for leaks also. I replaced one of mine with a +.001 over and stopped an oil leak. The oil leaks between the cylinders hit the baffling shield and can blown to the back of the engine.

Come out to San Diego I'll grill you all some burgers! It was only 80 out today:) actually kind of ridiculous how warm it is.

Is there any truth to paint job being better and less expensive in some states because of EPA, sales tax, regulations, ect? Living in California here this all the time and I would love to here if from anyone that really knows.

Need to grow some icicles!

Yes, I replaced the entire pump. My fuel pressure was starting to fluctuate and I also noticed the oil. I ordered it from Aircraft Spruce $398 and the Gasket $1.85. I don't know how many hours he charged me but it was a real PIA so I'm guessing 6. He ended up taking out the Magneto to get to it.

Just replaced a fuel pump that was causing an oil leak as well.

Good question! I would love to see picture how people have them mounted on the exterior of the plane.

I think you read my post to fast, I'm in favor of running the tank dry! I do maintain my plane and that was my argument, in the event that something unforeseen happens such as a malfunction in a well maintained plane occurs...or maybe I'm misunderstanding you.

I occasionally use full throttle on take off but only when I want to get off the ground a little quicker!

That would be a bummer! My example works as an argument for both sides:) I wanted to know my actual fuel capacity so I ran the tanks dry in a safe glide distance to an airport. I now know the capacity and have not had the need to actually run them dry but can if necessary.

That will serve you well until the unexpected happens. I would feel foolish totalling a plane or injuring passengers because I felt like I had to land a plane early thinking I had a dry tank when in reality I didn't. POH useful fuel vs actual can be very different and knowing the what the actual is can save your bacon. I had an interiesting thing happen to me and lucky for me it was when I was shutting down my plane and I was on the ground. I turn my fuel selector to the off position when the plane sits. This particular time I turned it and it moved about an 1/8" and got stuck between the 2 tanks. In this position I was able to move it back enough to get it back to the right tank with a lot of force but it would move no further. If this had happen in the air I would be very happy to know my actual fuel available to plan for my safest option to land.