furledd

I saw some folks saying they wanted to try and remove the vaccuum system by using the G5 in combination with other things. Wouldnt that end up leaving your vaccuum operated step inop on a Mooney? Thats is vaccuum operated best i can tell on my F model

I posted a while back on this topic and wanted to give all an update. I first installed the Freeflight XVR with the 430W, and the traffic worked on the 430W as mentioned by others, not the weather, but you could get both on the Ipad with a variety of Apps, like FlyQ and iFLY GPS There was indeed a dropout issue on the FF ADS-B connection for many months and FF worked with me and some others to finally fix that problem with a software update, and it did fix it. So it was finally working good last fall, THEN I got an opportunity to get a great trade-in/Upgrade deal. I checked first with the Avidyne solution but tried the computer interface simulator and the menus were not intuitive to me - the new GTN 650 seemed a lot more comfortable. So I bit the bullet on the new Garmin GTN 650 to replace the 430W through a trade in upgrade program at Sarasota Avionics. Unfortunately, i then found out the Freeflight XVR is not compatible with the GTN 650, so more $$$ coming - the shop offered an additional swap out deal for the just released at that time GTX 345 trading me out of the Freeflight and my GTX-327 transponder. Well, all is now done - I hope the last upgrade I ever need LOL but we all know how that goes - the 650/345 combination as you can imagine works great - weather and traffic together, also via Wifi on the Ipad. but always a downside. The downside is that I was used to using FLyQ EFB and iFlyQ on my Ipad and have an extended subscription for FlyQ, but it can not communicate with Garmin because they wont release the protocol. So if i want to use the Ipad to get weather and traffic I have to use Garmin Pilot. I hope they come around and get with a standard program on a common protocol in the future. But with the full interface and upgraded screen res and size, i wouldn't be using the Ipad as much anymore anyway. And the Ipad will work with the GPS connection and track my flight on the map and give speeds under IFly and FlyQ, just wont get traffic and weather. So all in all its a better setup than before.

Talked with him at length on the SWTA cowl mod on my M20F - and bought gap seals from him a few years ago. Does anyone know how old Russell was? Will SWTA continue ?

Where you located in Illinois? (Poplar Grove I think?) I am in the LaSalle Peru area and have a 67 M20F with a few basic mods on it. Been wanting to do the same thing you describe but don't have the rigging tools (would be willing to rent the travel boards for both of us to use) but if i did rent them I wouldnt be "allowed" to do the rigging myself. Does your rigging expert (or maybe that you) have time for a day visit and with my willing assistance do the same thing here? Should go twice as fast the second time around? PM me if might work something out

Was it the same part that's on ebay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mooney-Ldg-Light-circuit-breaker-930023-215-/131574199378?hash=item1ea26ef452&vxp=mtr

Good comments folks. Insurance company has never questioned my hull value amount but I am absolutely sure i could not sell it for that amount in the open market. So, you all are saying to insure it if possible for more than market value - but not too much more , otherwise it wont be totalled when it really should have been. Interesting balancing act. And, indeed the "system" does treat you differently if it's a REPAIR (Prorate , try to pay as little as possible, FBO tries to slip in more $$$ to make more on the repair but also cost you the owner money because you are paying the prorated amount of that - can you tell I have been through it? ) On the other hand, a TOTAL loss they just pay you what its insured for (the "agreed value") ..... Interesting. Maybe you are better off having it totalled, and have someone else rebuild her again as some others have mentioned above, then buy a damage history free plane. and No hassle!

Correct me if i am wrong, but I thought the insurance company gives you what they deem "fair market value" for the plane - and takes into account prop and engine time, current market, and is not related to what you insured it for. If comparables are worth $30k on ebay then they give you $30k, not whatever value to decided to insure it for. Otherwise, we all better make sure when ready to sell it, to insure your $40k airplane for $60k, then make sure "forget" to put down the gear, and then get more than your plane would sell for in the market AND with no sellers fees. When I had to replace a prop due to a prop strike a while back they said the prop was 25% worn out because it had 500 hours on it, even if it was in perfect shape and never had to have repairs or nicks filed out. They didn't give me full value there for it - same deal with the plane. Prorated Market value is what you would get. If you have a run out engine and a prop due for overhaul they wont give you squat for the repair if you have a prop strike. One thing that high insurance level might have is the decision to total it or not, but even then, if you have $30k in repairs and its really worth $40k repaired, and $15k for parts, would they not total it if you have it insured for $60k? Not sure. By the way, I am very sorry to hear about the incident ! but glad everyone is OK. Let us all know how the insurance company decides to proceed, but I suspect they may go ahead and repair her for you if she was in top shape when it happened.

System is sold to helitim. Dwight

I am selling a Powerflow exhaust system, removed from a M20J model Mooney. It has approximately 300 hours on it and is in excellent condition. This is a "Generation 1" design, with original muffler, with ceramic coating, and is still in production at Powerflow. The Gen1 version fits I am told the majority of the M20E and F models with IO-360, as well as the later J models. It is the only choice if your aircraft is equipped with either the LoPresti cowling or (on the J Model) electric cowl flaps. Note: on approx.30% of the E, F (1964-1968) the Gen2 version may be a better fit and has to do with clearance of the alternate air door configuration in some cowlings. This exhaust mod will give significant performance gains , according to the manufacturer, including: Top speed capability improved by as much as 6.5 knots at 11,500 feet Improved rate of climb - up to 15% improvement Fuel savings at the same speeds - up to 1.3 GPH less This also includes a drip pan to be installed on the engine (J Models) as part of a service bulletin in 2007. A slightly different shield is available for the E and F models from Powerflow for $75. The reason I am selling is has mainly to do with the timing of an annual and an unexpected tax bill from the wifes business plus I was unsure if it would fit a Southwest Texas Cowl and did not want to take the additional time and money to trial fit it. All the original paperwork comes with the exhaust system. I checked with Powerflow and the STC is transferrable for $300 to your Mooney of choice. Equivalent hardware can be used according to the install manuals, but you can also buy from Powerflow the following items to aid in installation: P/N Description 10310 – New exhaust gaskets, nuts, lock washers, washers. $42.00 10362 – Hardware pack for clamps for muffler: $5.50 210 – Neoprene straps (used ones are included but you may want new ones) – $10.00 each A new system runs about $4,600 retail ($3,800 including shipping with the discount for long lead time orders plus if you order from a Powerflow dealer). Asking $1,800 Shipped. Any questions, please ask.

I might be an outlier, but first thing I thought of after reading this was the Cherokee 235 - many of them around 1400 lbs useful load, many can use Mogas, and have good speed as well with lower cost annuals because of the fixed gear. And with huge fuel tanks (84 gal) you could even get more cabin load by only partly filling them if desired. However, make sure you look at only the longer cabin versions (after 1973) for the extra legroom in the back (i.e. the Pathfinder or Dakota) as the earlier models were pretty tight for anyone bigger than a 10 yr old kid. Sounds like the early Mooneys eh? It is... FYI I looked seriously at a 235 in 2007 before I got the M20F.

I second the drill bit check I ran one of the correct size very slowly down my pilot seat lock holes and bumped the power very slowly a few times and a bunch of dirt augering up and out of most of my holes a couple weeks ago.

Well that begs a new question - why did they go from 100 to 105 at some point then between 1965 and 1967??

FYI, I found a picture of one of those original ASI's for a Mooney that was mismarked at 100 MPH instead of 105 MPH for flaps max speed. Note the 2nd version picture "looks" likes it 100 MPH but it's really showing 105 MPH if you look closely at the scale. The 3rd photo with the TAS adjustment windows its pretty clear its 105 MPH. 4th one is for the later models at 125 MPH - but all other speeds are the same..

There is a used throttle cable for an M20E on ebay for $60 or best offer right now - better bid! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mooney-M20E-Throttle-Cable-/141549254194?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item20f4fe3632&vxp=mtr There also was a throttle swivel joint for the end probably related to that SB that was on ebay forever but finally sold for $48... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mooney-M20-Throttle-Swivel-Joint-P-n-66051-005-New-Original-Kit-/131324873971?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item1e93928cf3&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=0JrLQxa8pPV8ImRRsAuZ3RurrNY%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I have that same EI setup as you did and curious how much did it cost to get an MVP-50 installed by the time you were all done I had been toying with the idea but figured it would be well over $5k ...maybe $10k by the time all those gauges were replaced... Posible to share your experience on that?

Nice info so it can be installed with everything in place, great! You have a picture after it was installed? Does it look the same as what was there before? I will try giving LASAR a call on that, thanks!

Thanks for that piece of info This site looks promising under square U channel I will remove a small piece and measure it to see if something may match up - only problem is its in England - shipping may be high http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=3

If this has been discussed already, I apologize, i tried to do a search on it. Anyone found a good source and installation method for replacing the seal at the base of the vertical stabilizer? Mine looks awful and is probably 55 years old... I would think with a new piece you could slide it under and through and possibly install it - anyone given it a try before? Thanks, Dwight

Thanks for the info.... I will look on the LASAR web site .. How hard is it to get the baggage compartment floor out - is that all riveted? I wonder if my fast working A&P could get it done in a long day? ( I know the bottom panel was easy to pull in like 5 minutes - but the baggage floor not sure..) Was yours cracked already? how did you find it, during an inspection? Did you get any pics of where it was cracked? Sorry for al the questions...but i frankly never heard of this issue for the whole time of owning the plane and never remembered anyone telling me about watching for it.

How much does that SB update/mod cost to do, if the spar is currently in good shape? I pulled my bottom panel last night and looked up at that area, and all looks good but wondering what the added insurance of the SB might cost? Parts still available/cost?

Well, now you've thrown a wrench into things! Maybe the 1969 models were being built in 1968?? But if your serial number is 68-XXX and you can go 125 mph then i dunno

Well, I emailed Russell at SWTA for his opinion, here what i got - i think Member Mooneymite was the closest on track for this answer: (At least 1 member says electric flaps was an option before 1969 just apparently not a FACTORY installed option) Electric flaps were not available until the 1969 models. Mooney did have a kit (p/n: 940001-501 & -503) that allowed the installation of electric flaps to be installed on 1962-1968 models. This kit was not produced until the mid 1970's. The higher flap speed was mostly due to the heaver rear spar center splice that came installed on the 1969 and later model Mooney's. The 1968 and earlier M20's had problems with the rear spar cracking where the flap torque tube attached to it (See Mooney Service Bulletin M20-217). This cracking problem was caused by flap extension at excessive speeds, and from stepping on the flap when getting on or off the wing. Lowering the flaps at a higher than recommended speed will cause cracking of the rear spar center splice which is EXPENSIVE to repair / replace. Heres the SB link http://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/sbm20-2171.pdf Next question is , once you do this SB, does the reinforcement let you lower the flaps at a higher speed i wonder? Doesnt say so in the SB so guessing not.

On the 105 vs 100 mph difference - I was told once when i had my ASI overhauled there was a face screening mistake on some indicators in the past on that. That may be the 105 vs 100 difference. But the actual changes that allowed for flap deployment at 125 vs 105 starting in 1968 vs 1967 it seems for both manual and electric flaps must be tied to a change somewhere in the wing? I know the twisted wing was in 1967 and it was eliminated in 1968 as i recall - could they have beefed up some parts at the same time? Whos calling Don Maxwell on this??

One quick thing you can do if its not the boot interfering and the preload is correct and grease is good, is to disconnect each wheel from the linkages. Then see if you can smoothly move the mains and nose gears up and down their range easily by hand. I had a lot of effort to raise mine the last inch or so on the J bar, and it turned out that the steering horn was shimmed so tight that it was binding a LOT at the top of the range for the nose gear. Once a shim was removed on the end of the steering horn, the nose gear moved way easier, and the effort in the J bar dropped dramatically. We all have our own stories eh?

I saw that. the problem is most shops wont install without paperwork, and it cost $450 to send it back to be checked out to obtain that paperwork from PS engineering. They can be bought brand new a bit less than at spruce - i had one once for around $1150 (but sold it out of disappointment after the local avionics shop told me it would cost $1500 labor to install it ). Geez! I wish I knew an A&P that I could swap work for parts or time, or sign off on me installing a used unit , as this kind of labor for something like an audio panel makes it prohibitive Now a DG, thats a lot easier to install...