orionflt

today while i was at the airport I was getting a few things out of my truck and I knocked my IPAD off the seat and on to the ramp, Of course it opened up from it's case and landed directly on the face shattering the glass. I hadn't intended to replace it any time soon but it looks like I need to decide if i want to replace it with an IPAD air or mini. any inputs would be appreciated Brian

Hey Everyone, A friend of mine and his brother are taking a Lancair Evolution to sun and Fun but the airplane is not coming back so I am trying to find a ride back for Jim. if anyone from the philly area has an open seat please PM me. Thanks, Brian

yes, I'm interested also

These types of discussions are best done over a couple of cold drinks, too bad this group is spread out over the country. I do love the knowledge base we have.

I'm not an engineer, but this statement doesn't make any sense to me. I agree that aluminum and steel expand at different rates and that aluminum will expand more then steel, that being said the aluminum should expand more and faster then the steel meaning there should be less tolerance with lower CHT's since the piston will be receiving more of the thermal energy then the cylinder walls thus expanding more. one of the reasons we run the engines before we do a compression check, or if we have air bypassing the piston during a cold compression check. as for the cylinders being designed fo provide a nominal clearance at normal operating temps, I agree , and that operating too hot or cold will change those clearances.

in a perfect world, both.....in my case chevy

From January on a flight up to Maine from PA. 9500ft M20C Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have been using fore flight for a couple of yrs, but i'm looking to make the jump to garmin and the GDL39

the lycoming engine manual has all the data to do the calculations, I'll see if i can find mine and post the info

and how much do you charge to strip and paint a Mooney using this process?

Another CYA bulletin....nice to know if your doing an overhaul, nothing to tear down your engine over

I have an old C model that had a 50 amp generator installed when i bought it, I upgraded to an alternator but left the system rated at 50 amps, during my latest panel and wiring upgrade i looked at my electrical loading and found that it wasn't worth it to me to upgrade my current breaker to 70 amps (the capacity of my alternator and wiring) due to the fact that my max load was well below the 80% load limit. my max draw with everything turned on is about 33 amps continuous, 37 peak, if I wasn't running a LED landing light my numbers would have been right at the 80% figure but since your set up with a 60 amp system yours probably wouldn't be an issue, list of equipment: Garmin 430W Garmin 330 KY-97 KMA 20 audio/mrkr Narco Nav 14 Narco DGO-10 HSI electric T&B MVP-50 Engine monitor Whelen strobes with nav lights Whelen LED landing light Pitot heat Brian

I'm so cheap i buy them in packs of 6, last time i bought them it averaged out to $15 a filter. looks like spruce has them for $18.50 for single, $105.00 for the six pack ($17.50ea) Brian

Bob, keep running the engine and as stated above change the oil every 25 hours until the numbers drop. I can almost guarantee that if you opened the engine right now you would see pitting on the piston skirts and spalling on the cam shaft and tappets, that being said it doesn't mean your engine is unairworthy, there are plenty of engines out there in the same condition and they will run to TBO. once the surface corrosion is wiped away from use, your metal numbers should drop back down in the average range and as long as you do not let the aircraft sit for long periods of time the additional wear will be minimal. Brian

Tempest oil filters have a magnet in them already: Brian

Ed, I have 21 hours on a freshly rebuilt Lycoming O-360 breaking the engine in with phillips XC 20W50, I did the 5 hr oil change and will be doing my next oil change with in the next 8-10 hours. my intentions were to use the phillips for another 25 hours then I was going to swap to change over to Aeroshell 100 plus with camguard, from reading this thread it sounds like you would recommend starting the changeover now?

How about a mooneyspace special!

+1 for the parmetheus, good light distribution, brighter then the incandescent, and about the cheapest LED or HID style light you will find. The best thing is it is plug and play with nothing but a normal log book entry, no STC or field approval needed. Brian

good, because since i redid my baffles mine are in the same area

Nice

unfortunately Jose, he does have to address the issue. It may not need to be reskinned or have anything repaired but because it has been deemed unairworthy by the FAA not addressing the squawks and flying the airplane opens a bigger can of worms. at that point you are challenging the FAA's authority and they will come back and hit you hard. if he can get documentation stating that the dents do not adversely affect air flow, lift and controllability of the aircraft and are with in acceptable limits, the inspector should accept it and release the aircraft. the big issue is mooney made a statement so now you have to get them to reverse their opinion. one thing you can try to do is get in and take pictures of the ribs and spars in the damaged area to prove that there is no additional structural damage. your A&P probably has a borescope he can do that with.

CJ aviation is a good place for pumps, never habd any issues working with them.

UREM38S

You guys should not have done that!!!! I have been debating fine wires for my O-360 to improve ignition performance and to improve my EGT spread, now with your preps I am going to have to pull the trigger....I only have a few hundred hours on my current auto lite plugs, but I know they could perform better. Brian

It hasn't been proven he isn't..... stir...stir...stir