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I'm no expert, but that doesn't look like a spinner to me.

I think it's a year, if I remember right. First one died outside that, this one only lasted 8-9 months. I'm going to see if I can get them to warranty it. I did get a different brand this time, the problem though is that the Aero is $200 and the Whelen is $400. I'm scared to spend more and end up with the same short life. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

You are probably right. Do they have a warrantee? Maybe you can keep sending them back. Have you tried a different brand? Maybe they would be more robust.

I have a C model (stole this pic of an E, it's the same setup) with the light in the lower right. It's got 2 adjusting screws in the back and has a retaining ring that goes inside the recess right next to the light that's held in with 4 sheet metal screws and tinnerman nuts. Does what you're showing work with that? It looks to me like it's more for the J model where the light is in the center? I may be mistaken though, so please correct me if I'm wrong. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

I don't even fly at night. About 50% of the time, I turn it on when I'm on final. Mine just die. The first one would work sometimes and other times not. Usually, it would not on preflight and then would after flying for a while, I thought it was a wiring issue. I replaced all the wiring and breakers when I redid my panel and it made no difference. This time, it just failed, no intermittent. The only thing I can come up with is vibration is killing it, I'm open to other theories though. It's super annoying because my OCD won't let me just live with it failed even though I don't need it. I like flying a squawk free airplane, it took me 2 years to clear up every one of them after I bought it and I just don't want to start accumulating non-critical squawks again. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

Someone with real J-model knowledge will be along shortly… A ‘78 J would be an early serial number, yes? Would the applicable figure in the IPC be 71-10-00? Index 27 and 28 relevant to the cowl flap hinge, with Note 3 reference to using -500 part numbers (depending on the serial number) and SB M20-231. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-231.pdf Regardless of everything I said above, try a longer bolt to get two or three threads protrusion through the nutplate. Or, do the M20-131 (if it applies).

Possibly I used the wrong word.............exhaust flange. On my former Lycoming O-360 and IO-360, the exhaust headers from the cylinders were attached to the muffler tubes with 3 hole flanges [header and muffler], 3 bolts [such as the one shown in the photo], 3 tension springs, spacer washers and nuts w/cotter pins. As I look at the bolt photo further, yes, I agree the bolt does look too large to be one of the bolts for the exhaust joints.

My old M20F used to eat landing lights. They only quit when I touched down. I started turning it off on short final and then turning it back on to taxi. My theory was if the filament was hot and soft, the slightest bump would knock it apart. I can’t explain why the LED lights would fail for the same reason. BTW, I landed so many times without the landing light on, I still turn it off when I land. The light freaks me out now. It gets the tower excited sometimes when I turn it off.

Nice install of my seals !

We extrude a u channel seal for the nose bracket light and two seals for the nose light Assy one on each side of the flange ams3320.093 I have not seen your installation maybe this would help

I'm sure a dynamic balance would make a difference, not discounting that at all. That said, for the sake of argument let's say I'm at .06 or so since I'm not feeling it, shouldn't a $200 PMAed landing light be able to handle that for more than a few months? Prop balance changes over time anyway so, even if I got it down to .01 in a year it might be .04+ again from prop wear. I'm thinking that if I can dampen the vibration at the lamp either instead of or in addition to reducing overall vibration, that it will help. I ordered one of these - https://skygeek.com/whelen-4006300-gasket.html. Hopefully it helps some, it definitely can't hurt. These - https://www.aeroresourcesinc.com/product_category/product_detail/61 - are supposed to reduce wind buffet and help as well, $115 for a piece of acrylic seems expensive though. If someone else has installed one and can confirm it makes a difference, it would be worth it to save the expense or replacing lamps, I don't want to be the guinea pig for that price though.

Yes, my battery was moved to the tail. This aircraft has pretty much every speed mod and trick applied to it. There's no free lunch.

You won't feel vibration (barely) until about .04 ips and a prop balance will get you to .02 or .01 ips

I had the prop IRANed 18 months or so ago. That includes disassembly, new seals, dressing the blades, paint and a static balance. I haven't done a dynamic balance, I'm sure it would help some. Since doing the motor mounts though I don't feel any vibration in the airplane. Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

When was the last time the propeller/rotating assembly dynamically balanced ?

Last annual they found a pickled (TKS) frog in my tail cone.

RHS outboard cowl flap hinge bolt continues to loosen itself on my `78 M20J (shown below). 1) How do I correct this problem? Cowl flap movement is slowly backing bolt out of integrated flap nut. 2) Is the bushing easy to replace by hand if replace bolt and washer(s)? 3) The parts catalog indicates two washers with each hinge bolt assembly (71-10-01 item #12) yet I only see one on aircraft. Where is second washer supposed to be installed? Thanks!

My C model eats landing lights, filament or LED style. I've had 2 AeroLED PAR46 lamps fail in the last 3 years, at $200 a pop, it gets expensive. I'm pretty sure it's vibration killing them, has anyone figured out a way to dampen that and get longer life out of them? I'm thinking about putting a rubber gasket between it and the back and another between it and the front retaining ring, I'm not sure it would help much thought. It's still going to have the aiming/set screws from the back side locking it into the cowl and there will be contact all the way around on the edge of the lamp so the gaskets aren't going to kill the vibration completely. I already replaced my engine mounts in December after installing a new light in November and I still had to replace that light this month so, while the mounts definitely made the airplane feel smoother, they didn't help the landing light. I don't fly at night so I don't actually *NEED* the light, it just bugs me to have it not working during the pre-flight and I like to turn it on when I'm on final to make myself more visible.

The cowl mod STC should have the part # for the spinner you have/need. it looks like you have the SWTA? Cowl mod and it does call out the snippet you need w that mod/stc

This. I actually go out of my way to load the airplane more tail heavy for improved true airspeed I believe on the classic Mooney's, the battery was located up front on the firewall?

Try @Jerry Pressley Or Allan Fox As a side note….i feel your pain. I am finishing up restoration of an experimental airplane. I decided to add an electrical system to include an alternator. I decided to do automotive with my own design Overvoltage protection and brackets. I never did find off the shelf brackets that worked and ended up having to do lots of mods. In the end, I was wishing I bought Plane Power or B&C. I give them credit for those aircraft specific components that make the difference between easy and hard. As a side note, I put a PlanePower on my Mooney years ago and have had no issues. Install was relatively easy, after you trim the baffles.

I understand that....he wanting to know how to start the aircraft as he has no means of priming it due to the electric fuel pump being inop.

Hello All, I’m at the tail end of my nightmare annual (I hope) where I’ve essentially brought a plane back from the scrapyard at this point. Engine is due back from overhaul in mid to late October and trying to get the final pieces in place. 1968 M20G (680021 Serial) The MX is letting me source parts to try to save a little bit of money, but I’m struggling to find alternator brackets. The fall-back plan is to buy the plane power, but an overhauled ALY-8520 is about $800 so I’d rather take that route if I can. The alternator that was on the plane was a CarQuest Alternator which the MX won’t put back on the plane (pictured). All of the manuals I’ve looked at show the generator, not the alternator. It should be the same as the M20C (Lycoming O-360-A1D). The alternator overhaul shop I was buying an alternator from said they have a bin full of brackets but they would need dimensions and a photo to see if they can find the correct brackets in the bin. Does anyone know where the correct brackets can be found, or can anyone share their bracket images and dimensions? (Or have an alternator and brackets they want to sell? Can be a core. (also on the hunt for an overhauled oil cooler…) As always, thank you in advance!

The original Duke pumps were not rated for continuous duty and burned out pretty quickly. Overhauled though get better parts and rated for continuous duty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this actually documented anywhere or just scuttlebutt?