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Thanks. I went through the same thought processes, albeit without spending any money yet. As you say, 1500 watts in the cockpit might be okay if I was in the hangar with it, but I would never want that much power unattended. The Tanis looks like the perfect solution.

As I've looked closer, the rubber discs are 10 yrs old, so I think it prudent to have them replaced in total and then address the tracking limits once new discs installed. I'll rent the tool (I have it on a browser at the house if member still rents it out) get new discs all around and hopefully have a more confidence-inspiring fast taxi situation. Thanks all for your input, and I'll report back with outcomes.

I prefer a smart combination of steam and glass but I'm older. But yep, most importantly I want everything working reliably. I would agree though, the population of folks that prefer some steam is diminishing.

Such as? I’m agnostic on glass vs steam, wing position, etc, if it’s got WAAS and ILS abilities, good auto pilot, glass or six pack doesn’t make a difference as long as it’s in good order (free from bad vac gyros or Aspen red Xs) It really is the same display

That’s very dangerous thinking. I wish the training industry would stop teaching that BS, “it’s the insurance companies plane if the engine quits” Uhh, for one far better pilots said stuff like “fly it as far into the crash as possible” and lest we forget we are STILL IN SAID AIRPLANE The better condition the box, often the better condition the contents

Service bulletin M20-202 has a drawing of the nosegear puck spacer and the material. It's basically a small slice of 1.25" OD steel tubing. Aircraft Spruce sells a 1-foot chunk of the exact pipe for $9.50, and anybody can cut a whole bunch of those spacers from it.

Not at all. I did the same thing. Procedure: Pulled the hoses off the Brittain turn coordinator and applied suction to the left and then right vacuum lines (the ones that go to the red and green hard lines that run along the pilot side fuselage). I used a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight with a built in gage and quick release valve. Connecting the pump to the hose has to be leak proof; the slightest leak and you'll never pull and hold a 5-6" vacuum. Tape the connection with electrical tape. One of my lines leaked and one pulled a steady vacuum without any additional pumping (I think my right one leaked and the right rudder servo is the one by the battery; would have to look it up to verify right or left). If you identify which side is leaking, you still haven't isolated whether it's a T in the line (T between rudder and wing), a hole in a line, a fitting or a servo seal. In my case, the rudder servo near the battery was easier to access and test than that wing, so it was tested next. Plugged the hoses at the turn coordinator, and pulled a vacuum on the rudder servo near the servo. Got lucky; it was leaking and had a hole in the seal. Sent it to Kevin to get the seal replaced. New seals are hard to come by now; they can sometimes be repaired with a rubber patch. System works fine now. Just FYI, if you go to the Gates web site, the 27073 hose doesn't appear to exist any longer. 27043 is still a good P/N. Specs are all over the place on the internet and the various auto parts web sites; IDs, ODs, nipple sizes, some in inches; some in mm. Plenty of sources for errors and confusion.

Maybe I'm a sucker, but I paid $155k for a loaded M20C (speed mods, leather, full LED, electric gear/flaps, etc.) with a 120 hour engine/prop. G3X, G5, GTN355/GTX375, GFC 500, etc. I've questioned this pricing since purchase, but going on Trade-A-Plane and looking at J-models in the same price range I continue to be happy with my purchase price. I'm giving up maybe 10 knots on a J (my C will do ~146-148 KTAS), but to get equivalent equipment and engine life you're $200k+ for a J. I believe my plane might be the most expensive M20C ever sold...and I think I'm okay with that based on the market.

Cirrus always seemed “lightly” built, I didn’t realize the nose wheel was that flimsy, but it doesn’t surprise me. Years back I was landing at a airport with both a smooth runway and a dirt/grass runway, being a nice dry day and flying a Pilatus I made the obvious choice for the grass. As I taxied to the ramp I saw a newish 22, pilots being pilots we chat, I asked him if he used the grass and without a nano second of hesitation or thought he says NO I’ve had some off field landings, both for fun and having had a full engine failure, aside from some grass in a tailwheel all was well The idea of flying a plane that is that flimsy on off airport, unless it operates in the land of flight levels and Mach numbers, I just don’t see the point

Interesting panel I thought the Aspen could replace the six pack also is the clock just resting on the ?

What procedure did you use? My response was flippant. I apologize.

Congrats to a long term owner that made it his and realized a sale at a high price. What a shame that members slang on someones plane. An unrepainted J-bar. The horror! So glad I am not an anal retentive down nose looker...

I had a ceramic heater that was cheap and way too much wattage...finally ponied up for the Tanis cabin heat and it's the right tool for the job except for cost. Perfect output, low profile, and most importantly, low wattage that doesn't trip my Switcheon cellular switch. Only downside was aviation pricing...and yikes, just looked and they went up by another $150 from when I purchased it from Gallagher back in 2021...just silly pricing, I don't get it. Lasko 1500W ceramic heater...what I first bought from Amazon... Tanis 500W heater...which is what I eventually broke down and bought from Gallagher It's super nice to have a toasty cabin and the seats plush when I get in. If its cold the seats are hard as a rock until they warm up. All you need is an hour or two and the entire interior is heat soaked and amazing!

@GeeBee is correct. They passed spin certification tests in Europe. EASA did not accept the FAA's ELOS satisfaction and wanted more.

I coul not agree more. How wonderful that you visit lake country in Austria frequently. My favorite travel experience all time was Wolgang see. From swimming in mountain lakes to fenicular train to food it is spectacular. We are going to Zell nextfall. Can't wait. Fly safe. Scott

I've been thinking about a cabin (and possibly tail) preheater. What are you using in the cabin?

Feel free to let them know I sent you.

Your bearings are toast. The best and newest o rings in the world can't seal against excessive play in the blades due to worn bearings.

I was always under the impression that the Cirrus wouldn't pass spin certification tests, so the chute was added in order to receive the ELOS exemption. "This airplane won't recover from a spin, so we needed to add a parachute to the entire airframe so you won't die." doesn't sound good to customers when you're trying to sell airplanes, so the marketing geniuses instead spun it into a "revolutionary safety feature, not available on any of our competitors aircraft!" It worked.

I don't think the ball is gonna roll for $150k...

Beautiful paint job! Thanks for the comment, I will check them out.

@Fly Boomer I was trialing a new way to snake the power cord for my cabin preheater... ...it's a large sponge that "almost fits perfectly" with cutting a slot in the front edge to slot the windo into...but the front lower corner of the pilot window is just big enough to get a seal I need to use a small piece of microfiber cloth folded up... (7.5" x 4.3" x 2") --> looks like Home Depot has a grout sponge that's 7.5" x 5.5"...gonna pick one up this morning and see if that works. Previously I had the cord going out the back of the baggage door, but that meant keeping the door cracked or really compressing my door seal. Now if I could fashion a plug in on the back baggage wall and a connection like my battery minder...that would be slick.

Nice setup. What's coming through the storm window?

We reversed those — I tested the AP but changed it back… -Don

Just like “I already have full asking price offers” sales tactic.