Cody Stallings

Oh............... Well the First inspection of the hub, the propeller has to be disassembled. ET inspection is then performed on the inside of the hub. After the reassembly of the propeller, the Ser# will be stamped with an "E", which means it has had the preliminary inspection done. After that the 100hrs inspection intervals begin. While the propeller is disassembled for the preliminary inspection, it maybe a good idea to Re-seal it at least. Factory recommends 5yr or 2000hrs on your propeller

Are you just looking to get the Hub Eddy current AD complied with?

I'm in North Central Arkansas @ 7m2. Stallings Aircraft Propeller is a full service FAA Certified Repairstation, we can handle all of your propeller needs. What kind of Propeller Issues are you havin Sir? We may be able to get you taken care of right here on MS. An yes, I do travel an do Dynamic Prop Balance an pickup an delivery to your location. Feel free to Msg or call me at anytime. 870-208-5198

Good deal

Removing the prop for the ET inspection blows me away. Keep in mind folks, the Eddy Current inspection does not have to be done by a Propellershop(unless it's the initial inspection). Any level 2 NDI tec that is ET rated can do it, as long as he has the inspection criteria in front of him.

Just my opinion, I would stick with the Aeroshell products. I would use the #22 for the undercarriage. Not very familiar with #7. 5&6 are what your looking for......

No problem. Was trying to get you some pictures, but don't look like its my night to upload pics.... sorry

This is a steel Turbine Hartzell, but the idea is the same. Each blade has its own stand alone bearing pack to be serviced.

#5 or #6 for the propeller is fine. If the propeller has Anti-ice Boots, #6 only. Servicing the Hartzell Y shank Propeller, is very straightforward. However, if a few steps are overlooked you will be headed straight to your nearest Propeller Repairstation #1 Each propeller blade has its own bearing pack, which is segregated from the others. On each side of the blade there is a greese fitting. One of these fittings have to be removed in order to let air an greese out, as you pump it in the opposite side. #2 When you remove the fitting use a toothpick or a piece of .041 wire the clean out any hardened greese. In the winter time I prefer to just add a couple pumps. Very slow pumps. In the summer time when the temp outside looks a lot like your CHT/EGT I will slowly purge all of the old discolored greese out. But you wanna be really careful. You want the greese to come out of the opposing side of the hub at a rate of 1 to 1. If it stops coming out, an your still pumping it in, then your filling the center of the hub with greese, or pushing it past the blade Quad seal... Hope this helped you.

If that P/N is for a 2 Blade propeller, you might wanna contact TreeBob on here. He may have just what you need

250-300...... Most of it being biz.

Aircraft Propeller in Opa Loka will take care of you. It's simple an fast. Takes longer to get the spinner off than it does to do the ET inspection

Get a second opinion. Unless that prop is an 8-10k hr prop, in my opinion you would have to have been taken off in a rock pit, an tied it down on a ramp somewhere at the bottom of the Gulf of Mexico They are still your parts: Get another shop to tell you it's scrap.

2nd John at 12 Stone. I work with him a lot. He's a real strait shooter, an hell of a A&P ....... My 2 cents

@2200 RPM, what MP do you utilize?

Overspeed chart

I would verify the Tach with a hand held optical Tach. Try an make all of your rpm adjustments with the prop Gov if possible, the low pitch stop in the propeller is only affective before the prop gov comes online. However, you can turn it out a 1/4 turn an get your rated RPM for a couple seconds, but the gov will pull it back. The low pitch setting on the propeller, if possible should not be manipulated. If to much pitch is added, it takes forever to make rpm on the takeoff roll. If you flatten the blade angle to much, the gov will see the quickly approaching overspeed coming, an try a pull it down very fast. When this happens the propellers blade angle will fluctuate till the prop gov finds it happy spot, while all of that takes place you don't have Maximum takeoff performance.

Think my Mx rented one from Avco. Best I remember, he said a +1 an +2 don't have to be reamed. The +5 has to be reamed though

Second opinion may save you $9k

You have a place that you trust that can put the oversized stud in?

McClung Aviation. Mountain View Ark. 7m2..... Very good an reasonable A&P Chris McClung 870-615-1407

With the 200 Series McCauley, after overhaul you may have a blade that needs to be re shimmed. If a blade has excessive blade tip movement, it will allow the blade to wobble just a tiny bit during shutdown allowing the blade Oring to move up an down on its sealing surface. The small amount of greese that got on the outside of the Oring will sling up the blade on the next start up. It is not uncommon for a McCauley to be re shimmed after Overhaul. An no, it is not a safety of flight issue.

It's a starter riggear plate I think. Unless you have something changed when you went with the J hood...... We have a couple at the shop yellow tagged

Hmmm........... So the light is no good