47U

I apologize in advance for the thread drift. But, here’s an idea. You might consider putting a guarded cover on the ‘Chem Trail’ toggle switch. Per the STC installation instructions (I’m positive). Is your chem trail hopper measured in oz, lbs, or gallons? And, what kind of spray set up? A simple ‘relief tube’ disguise, I suspect. How do you get your C high enough to create the proper disguised ‘contrail’? Is there a thrust component benefit with actuation to get you high enough? Is this STC still active? Where can I go to get one? One of the 3-letter agencies, I suppose?

Short body, short rudder. Last week I landed on RW17, 75’ wide. Wind was 240 degrees, 17kt G22. And it was gusty. I elected no flaps for the higher speed. It was sporty, but did not feel unsafe. Yeah, it skipped a couple times with the excess airspeed, but I road the upwind wheel for a bit and it settled down fine. Skip @PT20J is right, the nose needs to be centered when it touches down. I did pretty good, but it wasn’t perfect.

W100 might work, too. But will probably take a lot longer. Cliffy’s ‘truck engine mounts’ comment reminded me of this bit of neglected mx, committed by me. This is the lower left isolator, hidden behind the battery box on my ‘63C.

@1967 427 called it. Manual 106 lists the CHT probe as pn AN5546-1. This is the mx manual, not the IPC. @Vance Harral is correct, this probe is a thermistor, but the ‘67F uses a different probe than his ‘76F. The AN5546-1 probe is secure into a bayonet fitting that is screwed into the cylinder head. If a JPI or E.I. engine analyzer is installed that is not certified as primary, then a ring CHT probe is used in conjunction with the bayonet fitting and the factory CHT probe is retained to be legal. This is a picture of an Alcor CHT probe, equivalent to the AN5546-1, from Aircraft Spruce. It’s a two-wire probe. This is a picture of an E.I. ring CHT probe installed under the factory bayonet CHT probe fitting. On my ‘63C, I wrapped the factory bayonet and E.I. ring probe together in the fire sleeve and think I get a much more accurate reading.

The part number for the correct CHT probe will be found in your wiring schematic.

One of the best Twilight Zone episodes ever. A young William Shatner. Fresh out of the looney bin.

Spruce sells these caps, as NOT FAA approved. But, if you got one and took parts off of it to rebuild your caps, then it’s a repair. Talk to your A&P/IA first. As long as they’re happy, you’re golden.

Got a part number for the leather seal? (I am probably confused… again.)

I was able to use the ratchet strap to get the nose wheel apart, but the get the collar bolt back in I had to go to the bottle jack, modeled after others here on MooneySpace.

Ironic, I’m on Delta flight to MSP to pick her up as I reply. The sub-zero temps in mid Feb to pick her up did not appeal to me. Cost? Just under 8 amu. Which (I think) came with some extras. My ‘63C has 48 gal tanks total fuel. In addition to the strip and seal, I asked Paul to take a look at the fuel senders. They worked, mostly, but both tanks had some intermittent ‘windshield wiping’ in the 1/2 to 3/4 full range. Paul replaced both senders with ones he had on hand that came out of a J model. No extra charge. I had expected to pay for overhaul of my fuel senders which were last done in 2008. I had removed the side upholstery panels before I left home so he would have easy access. Paul also did the Service Bulletin to upgrade the factory sump drain on the left tank, which was not replaceable on the early vintage Mooneys. The right tank had been converted to the screw-in drain before I got the airplane. But, to me, the biggest thing? Paul hangared my airplane from the first week in January until tomorrow (17 Mar), when I’ll pick her up. I don’t know if he’ll always have hangar space to accommodate in the future, but not sitting on open ramp in the dead of winter was a huge deal for me.

I rebuilt my nose gear last summer (mostly for aesthetic reasons) … you’re welcome to the bushings I removed, if you don’t have a better option.

Were the bushings included?

Sorry this happened. 1. Did not occur in flight. Yes, I would put some speed tape over the top of it before flight. 2. I think ‘someone’ egressing the cockpit caught a piece of clothing, a snap/button/tool on the skin. Unintentional, but stuff happens. 3. I don’t think I’d scab patch it… probably try for a flush repair, which will require a doubler under the skin. Maybe, a 2” to 3” half circle? I think the skin is pretty thin there (.025” 2024 T3 Clad), which wouldn’t normally be thick enough material to use countersunk rivets, but since it’s not structural, for aesthetics I might do it anyway. Some careful fitting of the patch will be required so it lays flat agains the door frame. And seal the seam against the door frame with some PRC or something that won’t work loose over time. A flush patch would have less risk of getting caught on something again as opposed to a scab patch. I think replacement of the entire skin panel would be overkill and really expensive. If it’s the top skin, index 34, ugly. If it’s the door post skin, index 35, maybe not so bad. Forgive me for reposting your pics in a different orientation…

Same for the prop governor if that is the same. Should be upgraded.

IPC fig 55 ind 33 pn 740020 or 740020-501. Got one hit on controller.com https://www.controller.com/parts/search?SearchType=Start&PartNumber=740020 Hope it works out…