47U

You (likely) know your A&P better than any of us here. Have you been with him a long time? Does he have lots of Mooney experience? Do you have any directional issues on landing rollout? The collar on top of the donuts may fix that. There’s a SB on it. Any other steering issues? Looking at your video, I don’t think it’s that bad. When I went through my nose gear last year, it was a LOT worse than yours. Verify all the hardware is correct. There’s been changes in the hardware over the years. Just installing new hardware might satisfy your A&P.

Screenshot from aircraft.com… oil cooler is on the front cowl, not relocated behind #4 cylinder. There weren’t any pics in the ad with the cowling removed.

Welcome… pretty E model you’ve got there. I’m a C owner, O-360, but my CHT doesn’t act that differently than yours. Of course, I have a doghouse, which presumably your ‘75 E doesn’t have. And you have an ARI or SWTA cowling mod? I’m not sure what affect that has on CHTs. At only 50 hrs SMOH you could still be breaking in the cylinders, especially if the overhaul shop didn’t run it on the test cell. Was the overall done with chrome cylinders? They might have a reputation for running hotter CHTs. So, start with standard troubleshooting the baffling. Good sealing against the cowling, the flexible pieces are bent the correct direction, gaps around the starter and alternator, inter-cylinder baffles on bottom of the cylinders are installed correctly. There’s many threads on lowering CHTs. As far as low oil temperature, I’d start with verifying the gauge is accurate. The sender can be put in boiling water to verify. It that’s good, then looking at the vernatherm to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. There’s threads on that, too. An engine monitor is a good thing… my factory CHT runs hotter on the scale than what is indicated on my UBG-16. Top picture is from the sales ad showing the gauge scales more clearly…

Have you done an inflight mag check at cruise power settings? This might provide confidence that the mag/harness/plugs are happy. Two blade or three blade prop? Three blades may be perceived to vibe more. Make sure your tach is marked correctly for your POH/STC (as applicable). Verify the accuracy of the tach to make sure you’re not in a caution/red zone. A landing light lens which smooths the front of the cowling has been known to mediate the vibe sensation. How old are the engine mount isolators. Closely inspect the engine mount for cracks. I’m sure your gusset AD has been done, as a ‘71 C. And I agree with @Robert Hicks to have the prop dynamically balanced.

Sorry for revisiting… When you photoshopped the image, it might (?) appear that the prop governor oil line B-nut is blue (aluminum)? Comparing the color to the fitting in the case, which looks to be black (steel). There was an AD to replace the lines with aluminum B-nuts with lines assembled with steel B-nuts. I was a victim of this… during my AD/logbook verification, the logs said the AD was complied with. But, one of the local (friendly) RV mafia consortium paying a visit to my hangar noticed the blue B-nut and was kind enough to mention it to me. I queried the previous owner and the story was that yes, the line had been changed per the AD, but later inspection showed that the line was chaffing, which is an issue if you don’t order the line specifically to fit the Mooney. So the mechanic put the old line back on with, I’m assuming so as to not ‘ground’ (!) the aircraft, and that he would order a new correct line and change it at a later date. Which apparently never happened. Previous owner reimbursed me for the new line. Picture from 2010… When I removed the line, I found the generator mount bracket had a broken ear. It had been welded, but broke again. The new mount bracket was a lot thicker metal.

Without an obvious leak after visual inspection, the crankshaft seal is the first place I would investigate. It’s hard to see, but run a clean paper towel underneath the crankshaft on the backside of the starter ring gear. If that’s clean, maybe pull the spinner and see if there’s any evidence of the prop leaking. The prop governor oil line fitting might be leaking a little, but I don’t think it’s the source of your spritz. Years ago, I had the same spritz on my C model (narrow deck) under the same flight conditions. It was the crankshaft seal. (The safety wire on the alternator support arm looks to be neutral… could be parallax in the view… ummm, I apologize for mentioning it.)

Several available on controller.com… https://www.controller.com/parts/search?PartNumber=AW2-3%2F4-16

I think that getting the FAA ‘stamp of approval’ can be a very cumbersome process. Look how many hoops LASAR had to jump through when they moved to Oregon and had to start working with a new FSDO. My guess is that they had to reaccomplish FAA approvals on every part they touched. The ‘F’ in FSDO might be a pseudonym for Fiefdom.

I can’t read my own IPC… the AN7 bolt is index 14, the shaved bolt is index 15… Mooney doesn’t list the mil-spec pn equivalent…

What we (might) have here is a failure to communicate. Or something like that. The bolt through the collar that retains the shock discs is a standard AN5-16A (AN5-15A in my early IPC). Less than a dollar ea. on Spruce, and $1.08 from LASAR. However, the bolt at the bottom of the shock link is an AN7-22A, $3.60 from Spruce. BUT, this bolt has a shaved head so it can be installed past the ears on the spindle assy… which you won’t find for sale on Spruce. LASAR sells this bolt for $270.06 (almost $300). I guess you could take the Spruce bolt to the bench grinder, but it won’t be nearly as pretty as the Mooney version. A machine shop could probably shave the head of a Spruce bolt and re-cad plate it so it looks pretty, but I’m not sure what they might charge for that service.

You have a full-blown case of ‘Mooney-itis.’ You might get to the 155 number with all the speed mods on your E… including wing root and stab fairings besides the 201 windscreen and maybe a new J/Lopresti/Sabremech cowl. There’s a C on our ramp with inner gear doors. But, Mooney-itis is insidious. Once you get to that 155 number, either with your highly modified E or a new-to-you J, you’ll be looking for more. My advice, start looking for your Rocket…

^^^^ This. No personal experience, but I witnessed the unfortunate outcome with a G model driver. We missed our planned lunch at Nancy’s, instead occupied getting his tire and tube fixed up. And it was 105 degrees on the ramp that day.

LASAR has a few items still in stock, but can inquire the factory to see if they have any stock, or will make something. https://lasar.com/baffle-baffle-seals Too bad that Airforms isn’t still making Mooney baffles… my understanding was that there were too many ‘variations’ in the parts fitment so they quit. I had to rework a factory baffle myself when I replaced some pieces about 15 years ago. Now I’ve made some patches on new cracks that were the same cracks as the old baffles. If they’re not too far gone they can be patched up with some basic sheet metal skills. Otherwise, eBay and salvage yards.

And… how many knots is that fancy @Sabremech cowl worth???

Lot’s of good information above… I’m also a fan of Mike Busch. I had confusion on how best to combine RPM, mixture, and fuel flow when I’m traveling, or just out donk’n around. The performance charts differ very significantly from the early vintage C/D POH supplement to the latest POH version of the mid-70s. Influence from marketing, I suspect. Basic advice from Lycoming in SI 1094D Mixture Leaning Procedures Then from the Lycoming operating manual… which is quite an eye chart… So, someone transposed that into a table… a little easier to read… (both of these are easily searched online for non-jpg versions).