47U

Plus 1 for felt… it just seems right on vintage birds.

Try this… https://www.controller.com/parts/search?SearchType=Start&PartNumber=MS3106A-12S-3S The IPC electrical schematic shows the connector, but there’s a typo. It’s index 67, pn AN3106A-12S-3S, not -125-3S. Near as I could tell, that AN pn crosses to the MS pn shown on link to controller.com.

There are approved areas to add weight to the backplate and unapproved ways. Make sure your tech knows what’s what. There are a number of cracked backplate threads on MooneySpace. Dynamic prop balancing can be beneficial, but caution is advised.

There’s a suction screen for the oil pump in the oil sump. It should be checked every oil change, but is often overlooked by some. Lack of easy access might be the reason.

As Skip says, a short section of duct is sometimes used as the trim boot. But, I think the boot just makes it hard to clean, inspect, and lubricate the jackscrew. Unless you’re operating on grass/unimproved airport surfaces, you might consider not installing it. It should cleaned and lubed with new grease every annual whether there is a boot installed or not. Looking at the ‘68 IPC (Manual 205), the trim boot isn’t shown. Did Mooney dispense with it for a time? The previous year IPC (‘65-‘67) clearly shows the trim boot (duct) as pn 740087-3. LASAR also lists this pn… did they this one in stock?

I had a relative that owned a ‘62C back in the 1980s and the baggage door opened on him when he hit some severe turbulence on descent over the foothills east of San Diego. The door did not unlatch. The sun had set and it was dark… but VFR. He speculated he transitioned through some kind of on-shore flow wind shear. The door was tweaked, but did not depart the airframe. I was stationed at Mather AFB at the time and he had me scrounge the yard at Kenny Faeth’s for a replacement door. I sent him one, but being the doors are hand-fitted, ultimately it was less work for his A&P to reskin his original baggage door and tweak it back into shape. Looking at my ‘63C, I cannot imagine how much fuselage flex would be required to unseat the baggage door latch pins. I also have a lot of friction on the pins to close the latch, to the point I have to apply some pressure on the door to more easily engage the pins in the strike plates. I installed a lanyard and don’t lock my baggage door. I installed the lanyard to pull aft and it’s at the aft end of the door next to the hat rack. Much less likely rear seat pax would be inclined to touch it. Perhaps the amount of travel of the latch pins should be investigated to make sure they fully engage the plates on the fuselage. I don’t think there’s any adjustment for throw (on the vintage birds anyway), but if the linkage gets worn, perhaps there is a risk of the pin(s) not fully engaging.

Manual #235?

What I do… if the airplane is on jacks overnight, I put on the collars.

Here’s a thread from last year… references a ‘kit’…

A healthy ingnition system is key to satisfactory run-ups. What are the condition of the mags/ignition harness? Have you ohmed the plugs? Is the Tempest BY plug an option for your A1A engine? I’m with @201Steve… borescope the cylinder. Your A&P must have pretty good ears to hear air hissing in the oil fill tube with an only 3 psi drop during the compression check.

With the 201 windshield, do you have the small triangular panels? Otherwise, I’m guessing access is problematic. When the brakes were solid, did the parking brake hold then? Or was it always slipping… Sounds like @Andy95W has the inside track on troubleshooting. Once you identify which valve you have, the o-ring part numbers are in the mx manual (104). Or, depending on which valve, a replacement/salvage valve might be in your future.

Scott… do you have an external leak? Does the parking brake actuate but not hold pressure to the brakes? Is the cable functional throughout its full travel… or stiff from lack of lubrication and decades of neglect (obviously, neglect from previous owners).

https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SIM20-137.pdf A few months ago I ordered the kit from the factory through LASAR. I think they might sell the placards separately.

Yes, someone did replace the 3-piece panel with a single sheet. Don’t remember who. It looked great, although compound curves in aluminum would have me turning out some scrap on at least the first attempt, maybe two attempts. As an alternative, just replace the center section (with the antenna hole in it) with a new piece of aluminum (mine is that way). Sure, the single piece will be less likely to leak, but there’s many posts on how to successfully seal up the avionics panel. And, if you keep it as a 3-piece, if you need to access only one side you can do that without removing the whole panel.

My best guess? It’s a typo. Your yoke shafts should be pn 710005-1/-2. Fig 29, Ind 1 (pg 120) shows 720005-501 as the rudder torque tube assy (in front of the rudder pedals). Further, the part number/page cross reference shows 710005-000 on page 114, which is where the yoke shafts are depicted.