47U

+1 @Ragsf15e 1. Cad machine screws. If the head shows any damage, replace it. 2. Put a small smear of anti seize (use a tooth pick) on each screw before installing. It’s time consuming, but once done, you don’t have to do it every year. 3. Hand install screws. Using a ratchet screwdriver helps. Do not use a battery operated drill-driver. Even the lowest torque setting is too tight. 4. Use a new (quality) apex bit to remove the screws. Worn bits strip out Phillips head screws. You’ll spend much less time removing stuck/stripped head screws.

Well, the you can buy a TX56A new in the box… and it’s only 1.3” high. I removed Narco equipment, and it’s sure better than the Comm 120 and Nav 121/122.

Do you have a SureFly mag? They require a hot lead per the installation documents, often taken from the master relay..

EricJ is certainly correct. And I am not an engine guy (I have more experience on the J-57 and TF-33). How many hours on the engine/cylinder? Perhaps have the compression on that cylinder checked when it goes in the shop for the next oil change and not wait until the annual? It can be surprising how fast a cylinder can go south. Couple years ago, at the annual, my #2 cylinder was 36/80. Borescope showed green on the exhaust valve. I talked to the engine shop (with pics) and shipped them the cylinder for overhaul. Since I had R2’d the #3 cylinder the year before (broken exhaust valve guide), I resolved to check compressions and borescope at every oil change. Fast forward 11 tach hrs, I’m changing the oil for the break-in of the #2 cylinder. Did my compression checks, #1 cylinder was in the mid-50s, down from 70/80 at the annual, just 11 hrs ago. Exhaust valve leaking air, but the valve did not show visible signs of distress. Opted to lap it in place… and the compression then dropped to 30/80. The valve stem was sloppy in the guide. Cylinder sent to the shop for overhaul. Shop said the valve was close to being swallowed. Not fond of running on three cylinders. Would the #1 cylinder exhaust valve have lasted until the next annual, probably 80 or 90 hrs on the tach? Sorry to high jack your thread. I’m sure your shop knows what they are doing, certainly they know more about your situation than I do.

That stood out to me, too. What was the compression after lapping the valve? And, what does “gained access to the exhaust valve” mean? Did they just removed the rocker box cover? Or did they remove the cylinder? Not sure what replacing exhaust gaskets has to do with clearance to the bottom cowl, but I’m not a J owner… Talk nice with them, from what I read on the forum, your shop may be the exception to many shops.

For the yoke ball joints in the panel. I think that’s the only application for the C-model. When I did my yoke shaft service bulletin, I replaced the phenolic balls and applied graphite powder spray.

Corroded like this. After I made the purchase in 2008, at the first annual I addressed this. My springs were still loose, but… wow. LASAR had new springs and I stripped and painted all the gear rods. And all the flight control rods, too.

Can’t blame them for that…

If the aircraft has aft cg issues, why was the battery moved to the tail? What is the empty weight arm? My C is at 43.95”. With my 3-blade McCauley, battery on the firewall, starter, and generator, I’m forward cg challenged with the front seats filled. I have to add weight to the baggage compartment. A ‘65 C on the ramp is moving his battery aft to rectify forward cg issues (also has a 3-blade prop). As @Scooter and @Z W suggested, a review of the wt & bal history may be beneficial. I found numerous errors when I reviewed mine. If you have the amu’s, go for the yaw damper (dampener?). As @donkaye, MCFI says, 1.4 lbs isn’t much. Offset that with a lightweight battery.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/clite.php?clickkey=328210

We’re still referencing the master relay, correct? Mx Manual 106, pg 9-129. Original installation by the factory was manufactured by Cutler Hammer, pn 6041-H-231. Several used examples on controller.com, and BAS lists them on their website, also. https://www.controller.com/parts/search?PartNumber=6041-H-231&SearchType=Start I think Spruce sells TSO’d replacements… if you’re looking for a new one.

Look on the BK website… https://aerospace.honeywell.com/us/en/products-and-services/products/cabin-and-cockpit/avionics/autopilots-and-indicators/aerocruze-100-autopilot#resources-tab

Is the installation of the ALY-8520 accomplished with an STC? I’d think that paperwork would include the part numbers for the brackets? If I remember, @Ragsf15ehad an F model (and he’s since upgraded to the Encore) but if you can track down the STC paperwork that might help your search for the right bracket.

I did almost the same, but used a scrap piece of baffle. Not installed yet in the picture, I ran a .032” safety wire between the screws so the baffle wouldn’t fall off. (And I replaced the exhaust ball-joint hardware with castellated nuts and cotter pins.) The landing light lens cover may cure more vibration than you realize. When previous owner installed the 3-blade McCauley, he didn’t like the vibes. Had the prop dynamically balanced, still not happy. Smoothing of the cowling surface with the lens cover is what finally made him happy.

Someone with real J-model knowledge will be along shortly… A ‘78 J would be an early serial number, yes? Would the applicable figure in the IPC be 71-10-00? Index 27 and 28 relevant to the cowl flap hinge, with Note 3 reference to using -500 part numbers (depending on the serial number) and SB M20-231. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-231.pdf Regardless of everything I said above, try a longer bolt to get two or three threads protrusion through the nutplate. Or, do the M20-131 (if it applies).