47U

Here’s the document, but not sure if the dialogue on the Grumman site was relevant. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2025-01/SSP-885-2.pdf

Sheet metal screws go into tinnerman nuts, which are pretty easy to replace. I’m not very ‘J’ smart, but there’s a pn for these in the IPC… Rereading your post… Are you saying the holes in the panels are wallered out to where you need to install a screw with a larger head?

Duh. So, Mooney made the switch guards in-house??? Then, they should have a drawing. Front page of the manual says Mooney International Corporation… revised in 2014. Inside pages refer to Mooney Aircraft Corporation, Inc.

Is the vendor MAC? Whomever that is?

Clean up the rust and primer as mentioned above is the best solution. The access in that area is sooooo restricted. I’ve been hitting it with a wire tooth brush (with a shortened handle) and spraying it liberally with LPS 3 every annual as a stop-gap and that has kept rust under control.

A search on controller.com shows a used one for sale at Dawson Aircraft… they’ll probably send you a pic so you can see how worn it is. https://www.controller.com/parts/search?SearchType=Start&PartNumber=560046 One of the salvage yards would likely have a serviceable down lock block.

Look for the SWPC STORE link at the top of the webpage. I installed these back in 2011. I got a third light for the A-post. As long as I have one incandescent bulb in the circuit, the dimmer rheostat works just fine. The camera overexposed the panel shot, but the LEDs throw a lot of light. (Hmmm, does anyone need an ARC autopilot, CP136, NAV121&122, KR86, or two Comm 120s?)

Has the prop installation index been verified?

I think you can make the new baffles following the pattern of the baffles that you remove. It looks like the rear baffle is the worst offender, the sides and front might be ok. Other notes (please forgive)… there’s a plenum just outboard of the upper left engine mount. I think there’s supposed to be a scat duct attached that directs cooling air down to the fuel pump on the back of the accessory case. Also, there’s a baffle screw missing on the rear baffle joint to the side baffle, third hole down… or is that where the ignition lead adel clamp is supposed to go(?). Regardless, that adel clamp is not secure and with the screw loose, possibly another source of air leakage. Lastly the prop governor cable is chaffing on the engine mount tube. There’s some spiral wrap on it, but it looks like the paint is gone and some rust forming on the tube.

I think this SB (from 1960) is superseded by guidance in mx manuals applicable to long rudder airplanes. For short rudder airplanes, it may provide some perspective. https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-62.pdf

An avionics shop isn’t mandatory, but they would be the best resource to make your transformation successful. If you can do the CAD part, cutting a new panel might run only a few hundred dollars. If you hand over a panel sketch layout that needs to be programmed then that will be more. If you do the work, you need to have basic sheet metal experience mounting trays and such in a blank panel. If you can relocate the avionics, circuit breakers, etc., within the limits of their harnesses and pitot static connections, I would think your A&P would work with you. Many have been successful, but it’s not for the faint of heart.

That temporary solution isn’t all that horrible. You don’t need to drill it out, it’s already stripped. Just run the #10 tap through the hole and it works fine. Of course, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the avionics access, too, which is maybe the worst part of the temp fix.

The fairing would be pretty easy to fabricate. Make a template out of a paper grocery bag and trim until you like the fit. It wouldn’t need to be aircraft aluminum, Home Depot sells some .020” 2’ square aluminum pretty cheap (I think). I don’t think my step fairing is original, based on the practice hole on the bottom side. My fairing looked pretty rough so I took it off and hit it with a rattle can.

That is correct. Just stick the duct out the left exhaust cavity with all the other hoses.