47U

Which the plastic washers help to prevent the tendency to over-torque the screws. Tighten the screws to ‘snug’ (a technical term). And that’s it.

And where was it leaking from the first time you had it fixed?

It sucks when you’ve done nothing wrong but still draw the short straw. I’m thinking this NOS was built by Mooney, and then languished on some MSC’s inventory (perhaps for decades) until it ended up on eBay. Obviously the factory’s quality control was lacking at the time it was manufactured. There could be something nefarious involved, but I doubt it. This isn’t a deal breaker. You’ll get it straightened out and 10 years from now it will almost surely be just a distant memory. Many (most?) of us have experienced maintenance issues that went sideways. Keep focused on the brass ring. You’ll get there.

That’s a bummer… hopefully, eBay will give you recourse. Is your old mount beyond repair? I’ve seen some mounts with very elegant patchwork, compound curves and everything…

That’s a hot mess. First option, does Mooney (LASAR?) have any mounts in stock that they can trade for the one you have that’s miss drilled? Second option, what does your A&P/IA say? Although the holes in the new part are spaced too far apart, removing any metal will weaken the mount. If you can’t get a new replacement from LASAR, I’d still vote for expanding the holes in the oil cooler flange to match the mount. You’ve obviously lined up the oil cooler to the new mount… the goal would be to center the fins of the oil cooler in the opening of the mount and then see which holes in the oil cooler flange need expanding. If your A&P/IA agrees. An exchange part would be your best option.

Got a picture? Are you saying that the holes in the new part (rev G) don’t match up with the old part you removed from the lower cowling? As I remember (from 2010) the holes in the new part were the same as the old part. The oil cooler bolted right up. However, as you can see (below), there were extra holes drilled into the mount flange of the oil cooler to match the holes in the cowling. You can see some of the holes on the flange look elongated from the factory. If your holes don’t line up exactly, I’d work on the holes in flange of the oil cooler before I removed metal from the mount in the cowling. (Please, don’t anyone yell at me for the self-locking nuts on the exhaust ball-joint hardware. That’s the way the airplane came to me. I’ve since replaced the exhaust with a new PMA exhaust. I was considering a PowerFlow, but I’m still running a generator and I would need to do the alternator conversion to make the PowerFlow fit.)

If you say so…

Your’s is a ‘62C? The auxiliary power plug wasn’t on the C until ‘69, I think? Here’s a screenshot from Man 106, with a link to the downloads section. It’s probably going to take some digging through the manual to see if what you have is what came from the factory. There’s versions for C & G models and different versions for the E & F models. Maybe the only difference is due to the battery location? Was there any reference in the logbooks as how your AUX plug came to be installed? That might give you some info as to what version you have.

Concur. It might be more fun than safety wiring the prop bolts. I bought a shaft collar from the local ACE Hardware, drilled a hole in it, and replaced the set screw with a knob. I thread one strand of the safety wire through the hole in the collar and give it a couple twists with the free end of the wire. That way I can keep tension on the wire while twisting it. The length of the wire to the anchor point is fine-tuned by sliding collar on the shaft. Just for the prop governor high RPM stop screw.

Huh? My money was on the muffler bearing, and I lost again. Glad you’re back to ops normal. And concur that the back of the engine is a challenging location for the prop governor, even on my lowly C.

The Cygnet yokes are a PMA’d replacement for Beechcraft… So the logic is, the Cygnet yoke is airworthy on a Bonanza installed by the A&P with a simple logbook entry citing the PMA, but if installed on a Mooney the Cygnet yoke wouldn’t be airworthy? As @Matthew P says, form, fit, function.

I think the tower should have a beef with approach control, not with you. The Class C is replacing the Class D. So I would think that Class C rules apply, which is communicate with the controlling facility, Santa Barbara Approach (within 20NM as the inset says). It’d be nice if approach would coordinate with the tower, but that doesn’t always happen. Are you supposed to tell approach that you need to switch to the tower because you’re about to enter Class D, which does not exist? I’m speculating… but I would have done what you did. One of the smart(er) people will be along soon to tell me the error of my ways.

Magnaflux. The shop did remove some paint, at some level. It didn’t necessarily look (to me) like bare metal, but overexposure with the closeup flash might have washed out the image, appearing as some coating still remained. Inconclusive. Maybe some paint still does remain, but if the shop is removing paint to support the dye penetrant, then I’d think they’d remove enough to make the inspection viable. That’s why I like to see the crack under the black light. It might be cracked, or it might be a portion of the weld bead did not penetrate the tube, appearing as though it’s cracked.

AeroKroil. Give it time to work, overnight or a couple days. You can also try heating up the outside tube with a heat gun, after an overnight with the AeroKroil treatment. As @N201MKTurbo suggested, before putting it back together, clean it up and use the proper anti-sieze. I think something without graphite is recommended, but you should probably verify that.

Any old high-temp RTV you find at your local autoparts store will work. The color is up to you.