robert7467

Alan, how much? PM me!!! I bought those seatbelts from you in the past and you are great to work with.

Is it still avail? And how much?

Might be time for a new or newer radio.

There should be a hole on your breather tube. Chech that!

They did it for rudder peddle extension research and development.

Slick Mist by Lucas Oil Products. Sold at the auto parts store.

Not recommending this, but I come in 5mph faster with no flaps during X-Winds and it works out fine. I know it’s due to my inexperience, but one time I came in full flaps and since the wing is “cupped” with full flaps it seems that the wind pushes me off to the side as well. Plus I like the stability of the extra airspeed and don’t have to worry about a sudden stall in the event of a wind shear. That’s just my +2 and I understand I need to dip the wing down into the wind. Just need more practice.

What type of alternator do you have? Interav, Plane Power? You should only be focusing on 3 or 4 wires for your charging system. Its really simple!

There should be nothing in between. Why type of ALT do you have? They also have switches that are also CB which is what I am using for my avionics master.

I had the same problem. Run it full power on the takeoff and climb and run it 25/25 or 26/26. Basically don't baby it!

Do they have music inputs so I can listen to gangsta rap on final approach?

"Like other uncertified portable devices, the D1 can't be permanently mounted in an airplane, but Dynon offers several clever mounting options, including a suction-cup mount and a clever clip mount that works in any empty 3.5-inch instrument hole, requiring no tools to install or remove." Thats pretty cool. I was watching a FAA safety video where a guy lost his vacuum pump and this could have saved him. Even though this is not my primary AI I think its a really good backup. I also have the stratus which is nice, but I also dont want to depend on IOS or connectivity issues in case of a total failure.

It's pushed out the same as the old panel and at the same angle as the old one. It is important to maintain the proper angle for the AI. I used the same mounting system as the old minus the bottom shock mounts. It just looks like it's sticking out because there is no radios to the right.

I have an AI supervising my work. The Dynon is completely portable and is not mounted, it is docked like a 496 and it pops in and out like a 496.

I am excited about it. After this, I can finally start working on my instrument rating.

http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36284-mooney-panel/ The audio panel will be mounted on the top BTW.

Oh, and I am panel docking my 496.

That is actually the D1 portable unit that mounts right into the instrument hole. I think this is the most valuable instrument for backup. If the SHTF with the vacuum system and electrical system this unit will give me GPS heading, Altitude and Attitude for 4 hrs after a failure. Plus I still have iPad with stratus as a backup. For the DG in the Sandel unit, it has an electric gyro. Now the only instrument that I have on vacuum is the "certified AI". Here is what I am putting in: King 165 nav/com/glideslope 12 to 24V power supply Garmin 420 GPS Nav/Com Attitude Encoder Sandel 3308 (HSI, Moving Map, VOR) basically all my nav in one unit. King Gyro Mounted in the back of the plane. Audio Panel Installing new vacuum lines for the wing leveler. I know some may say that the 420 is not worth putting in, but I got it for a fire sale price, plus free install assistance (I am doing the work myself under supervision), plus since an m20c I really don’t want to dump a bunch of money into it. I think this will make a nice, basic, reliable IFR platform and I get to get rid of all that old crusty wiring that has been giving me problems since the beginning.

From what I understand, is that if you have the out function, the ipad will display all transponder traffic. If you dont have out, you will only be able to see aircraft with "out".

Don't really have anything to elaborate on. The guy that is helping supervise me with the install told me that using shock mounts is somewhat obsolete and are not necessary. I tried googling the subject and could not find any info online. I called a local very high quality avionics shop to confirm and he asked what I was putting in and said they really don’t use shock mounts anymore. As far as the angle is concerned, by leaving the top and middle shock mounts in place, it left the same, exact angle as before after removing the bottom shock mounts and it works perfectly.

With the old panel there was a bend, which basically mean if the new panel is flush with the top and side flush mounts, it is exactly the same angle as the old panel.

It looks like those little sneaky hangar elves are back at it again. This time it’s for a six pack panel upgrade! Since there is hardly any information online regarding this subject, I decided to put it out there for all the other little hangar elves. I know some of the avionics are not the latest and greatest, but this is an M20C model and with the money I am saving with the purchase as well as the DIY install (Under an AI/Avionics Engineer/EE, etc…). When upgrading the panel I had 3 options: Mooney Land- $9k Lasar- Around $300 is, plus 60 hrs in mounting the panel (according to a write-up online). DIY- Around $300 with the aluminum and band saw that I had to purchase. Basically the band saw is free by DIY. I decided to go the DIY route. Here are the instructions: Take the old shotgun panel and place over the aluminum. Drill out 1 mounting hole and put a nut and bolt through it to hold it into place. Then drill the second hole, put a nut and bolt through it to hold it into place. With the panel bolted and facing downwards onto the blank aluminum, trace the outline of the old panel onto the new and drill out the remaining mounting holes. On the 2 vertical holes, only drill the top hole. On the bottom of the panel, you are going to want to extend it around ¼”, but you do not want to extend the yoke cut. So use a washer that has about a ¼ space on it and stick the sharpie in the middle to trace the bottom, stopping at the yoke cut. Use a band saw to rough cut the panel out. Use a disc sander to sand the aluminum until the trace lines disappear. Here is the big secret that will save you a ton of time with the mounting of the new panel. Just remove the bottom shock mounts and that panel will mount up perfectly at the right angle. Shock mounts are no longer necessary on panel installs. You can call your local avionics shop to confirm. Replace the bottom shock mounts with simple nut and bolt (brass from aircraft spruce) and leave the middle and top shock mounts intact. For that one mount that has 2 vertical screws, cut the bottom of it off to where you only use the top screw and grind it down around 1/4 “ around the hole. This will give you the needed room to do a six pack configuration. Most of the weight of the panel will be supported by the lower bolts and the top mounts are there to push the panel out for the angle. Now it looks like you solved the mounting issue and saved 60 hrs in the process! Now, you have the side cover to deal with. Just get 2” angle, measure it out, drill 2 mounting screws, cut to fit and call it a day. Now here the dirty little secret to make the 6 pack fit. You can go 1/2 “above the yoke cut and 1/2'” all the way to the right. You will notice the right 4 instruments are offset a little, this is to give room for the yoke. Hope this little write up will save someone some time and money with the new panel!