robert7467

I am not talking about the X itself, but the graineieness of the color.

So 26 is basically a ground and terminates to pin 4? What about the display? Do you guys think it's a bulb issue?

The display is a little choppy. See bottom x. Does anyone know what it could be? Also I see that it needs to be hooked up to it's own dimmer switch. I see a pin for the dimmer, but how does it return. Is it pin to potentiometer, then to ground? Or does it return somewhere in the unit? Brightness is an issue, perhaps switch or bulb and or both? Thanks for your help guys!

Mine is toast. I may have put in a screw 100'ths of an inch too long and roached out the display. Anyone have a 700 or the upgraded version for sale that will plug and play? I can trade mine in...

Is there any way to get a better harness? The wiring on the harness I have is Chinese crap with maybe 2 or 3 strands of wire. I have a problem hooking this Wuhan crap to milspec wire. Maybe an adapter that I can pin? 3 years, this will be toast!

It's an old airplane, I just installed a 420 and made my plane more capable than it already was, but its "certified".... I just installed a bunch of old, crusty avionics, but before I couldn't shoot an ILS, so its worth it... Good wiring and decent avionics goes a long way. I am sure as H not going to dump 100k in avionics in a legacy plane. One man's trash is another man's . treasure! I am just thankful that I dont hear noise in my radios and I can shoot and ILS and GPS approach. I have dealt with my fair share of old crusty wiring, power issues, crackling noise on the intercom. Now that I have good wiring, I can upgrade as I go, as I can afford. One piece at a time...

Ha, now that we did a panel upgrade, I am sure he is going to have a 50 page checklist! I wish I was that anal, but I am good with a flow checklist during every phase of flight.

Oh, and when you are going your cutouts flip and clam the old panel so its flush.

I rough cut my panel, used nuts and screws to bolt the old panel to the new for the outline and shock mount holes and the repositioned and clamped the panel and used a router for the cutouts. For the zero degree tilt, I used the old shock mounts and attached the angle aluminum. Using the old as a template, all my shock mount screws were perfectly aligned.The left empty hole is for the D2 panel mount and the big hole on the right is for the 496. The 2 holes below that are from removed Davtron DVOR and temp gauge. I am filling those with USB plugs. Should have her buttoned up today and I can send a pic of the completed panel.a router and the old panel as a template goes a long way. Use the table router with a flush bit and fee hand it.

Thank you guys! MS is a very valuable resource. I am thinking music might be too much of a distraction since I am going to be starting my instrument rating with a whole new panel (new to me at least). Anyone else have music? Is it a distraction?

Yeah, I have then pins to the 430, but the schematic also shows grounding the 2 devices together for the RS232. I am about to pin that tomorrow, so the 439 will push to the 496. My main thing is audio. Should I use the ADF pin on the KMA 24 for alerts? Which wire from the 496 should I pin to the KMA 24? I would like music, but I think it would be a distraction. Is there anything else I can pin to the 430 that would be beneficial? I am trying to have a starship here on the cheap.

How can I integrate it to the 430? I know about the 232, but what about audio into a kma24? I just want warnings and not music (too much of a distraction.

Thank you for the information it is very valuable! We have a new battery on the way, but the avionics guy said its perfectly acceptable to hook it up to my truck as a power supply so I can test while I wait for the battery to come in!

Thanks for the advice guys! We are going to pull the trigger and buy another battery. I have a hard time buying another battery that I only used for a couple hours. But, it is what it is!

I bought this 5 years ago and only put a few hours on it. We hooked it up to a power supply when we were doing an avionics install. After having it on a 3 amp charge for 4 days, when I put it back in the plane, I turned on the master switch and watched the voltage rapidly drop to 10 within 3 minutes. I was reading up on this and people are saying to rapidly charge, with around 15 volts and that might bring the battery to life. Basically the battery needs a good workout. I have a truck with 2 batteries and I was thinking about hooking this one up as a 3rd and keeping it in there for a few days. Do you guys think this might work?

Now that we are talking about trim, my partner is the type that has a 11 page checklist and is super anal. He always flaps and trims for landing. Our Mooneys trim indicator was inop, so sometimes when I take off, its nose up and I had to push down. This became a habit. Then I was flying a Merlin, we were doing full stop landings and takeoffs. Upon one takeoff, she went nose up, I pushed the nose forward, but she kept fighting me. I was holding the yoke forward screaming at the owner something was wrong. It took him a minute to react, and he pushed some switch on the yoke (trim) and it went back to normal. The point is, everything in that plane happens so fast and if it wasn't for my partner trimming the Mooney for landing, I dont think I would have had the reflexes to push that yoke forward and we would have turned into a yard dart. That was my last flight in that Merlin. Now I fixed the trim indicator, it was white on white, now I colored it with a sharpee and I can see it.

Yeah that was my experience, I had an 8000 runway, but also had no problems on shorter ones. Luckily now I am confident with flaps, but at first I hated them. I would just add a little at a time per landing until I felt comfortable with full. Still, when its windy, I prefer the higher speed with no flaps. No flaps keeps me on the centerline with the faster airspeed. One other thing I like about no flaps is I dont have to trim. It's just easier. This time around I am more about procedures and flying the POH. I am going to need to set it up the same every time with configuration and power settings for IFR. Since I am rusty, I look forward to not having any bad habits and I can start fresh!

For me when I was training for my PPL, I preferred no flaps, every time I would land with flaps, I had not so steller landings. A week before my checkride, I had to learn how to land with them. No flaps, with the lower angle of decent, final approach at 85 MPH, then bleeding it down before touchdown, I always greased my landings. I still use flaps though, but some reason in the beginning they didn't work for me. Personally, I like the more stable approach (higher speed), not having to trim and the gentle landings. I was taught by an old school flight instructor, no syllabus, but he was a really good pilot. Now that I have been inactive for 4 years, I am going to do a 4hr biannual and stick to the POH and I am going to a flight school, where I will have a syllabus instead of throwing my IFR together, like my PPL was done. My instrument rating is going to require a lot more precision and luckily since its been 4 years, its like starting over again being free of bad habits.

Steve PM'd me. Thank you guys very much. I am excited to have this bird complete again!

What's the price? I already have one with a good screen, nav and glideslope, I just need the comm board, so I should just buy another one. If you can remove the GS that should be worth $500. Is it 28v?

I already have, Alan is trying to see if he has one.

Looking for a 28v KX165 with a part number ending in 25. Anyone have one laying around and willing to sell? Trying to get my bird back up in the air on a "budget". Thanks, Robert

Beep beep!

Is this still avail?

You can get a DC/DC 14/28 converter. I have a 14V system and running 28V radios.