robert7467

Anybody know where this hose goes to? Also, this switch on the carb (I think its the landing gear warning) the two wires are disconected from the switch. Does it matter which way the go? And as far as all the oil you see, I already fixed that. It appears our super star mechanic safety wired the oil tube backwards. I have now tightened it and resafety wired it.

I am learning right now. 7.9 hrs in cessna from 2004 around 15 hrs in Mooney I am almost ready to solo. Any airplane is a good airplane to learn to fly in. Just take your time, fly by the numbers, and everything will come into place. Before my purchase, I had issues finding an instructor, then I got lucky found a guy that has over 6,000 hrs 3500 of which is instruction. He is also an A&P, and teaches A&P classes. If you have a good instructor, he will not let you exceed the limits of the plane, and he will not let you do a hard landing.

Call Richard Starnes, he has been servicing our mooney for years. 901-487-3255

I bought a Mooney m20c and I am training in it. Its not so bad. As my 6000hr instructor who has 3500hrs as CFI said, any airplane is good to learn in. All I can say is just take your time, and enjoy it....

Partner in a C model... The other two do not even fly the plane, and they are very nice, so I guess I am lucky. I think they had me join, so the plane would be flown.

ok, I spoke with my brother in law who is an A&P for a major airline, and does a ton of sheet metal work... He said to take the screw out, get some metal tape (too keep the other areas from being scratched) tape a square around the corrsion, get a dremmel with a scotch bright pad, remove all of the corrosion, then primer it with primer with some corrosion inhibitor (can't remember the ingrediant). Then touch it up with an airbrush (I have the matching paint from when it was painted). And then fog with corrosion x to cover the inside of the skin... I am sure it will not be perfect and you will see the lines from the tape, but it will look alot better than blisters in the paint...

Also try it when the plane is on the ground and not moving... I tried mine in the air, and due to the wind resistance, it would not close... As soon as I did it on the ground, it closed fine...

Even over the paint?? Should I just sand it and touch it up?

Whats the best way to do it? Sand it down and put touch up paint on it? And what about the inside of the skin?

We applied up pressure when retracting... At least me know how to adjust it now... Thank you guys for all of your help

Mark, it looks like you have some cool things on your web page. Thank you for giving us a 5% discount. Robert

I just bought a share in the plane. Its a really nice M20C. I noticed a little corrsion around one of the screws by the alerion (bubbley paint)... Should I just leave it until the next paint job, or should I sand it down, and touch it up. There is actually a couple corrosion spots around some rivets and screws on the skins... Luckily there is little or no corrosion when I opened up the inspection panels. The plane has had the same mechanic for 20 years, and it seems like he was too comfortabe with the plane and missed a few spots on the annual. The plane is hangared as well. I am still a student pilot, and I have spent more time working on the plane than flying it, which is good, becuase so far I have not spent any money, and I am learing alot about the plane, which might prevent me from getting stranded in the middle of no where. Luckily my flight instructor is also a A&P instructor, so I am getting alot of info by picking his brain. Other than that, the plane is in overall great shape with 50 hrs on engine and prop and she was well taken care of and hangared. I just need to work out a few kinks, and she will be flawless...

Thank you guys for all of your help. I bleed the brakes, and then bled the flaps. When this was done the flaps would go down, but took forever to come back up. I then adjusted the flap speed (little flathead screw, inside of a nut), and now the flaps retract 12 seconds... From what I uderstand this has been an issue for the last five years.

sorry, meant the bleed valve??

but where is the flap valve??

Started out with the flaps not retracting. Now the flaps will not engage. Opened up inspection plate on belly, noticed the leak that looks like red maple syrup (brake fluid). Resivor was empty, so we went ahead and bled the brakes. Now its time to bleed the flaps. Where do we bleed the flaps? Are their any fittings that require special tools? We couldn't find the fitting to hook the brake bleeder up to. Does anyone have a picture of what to unscrew for old school bleeding (pump and release valvue/ repeat) or where to hook the bleeder up to push fluid through the system? And BTW I have an A&P assisting me, just not a Mooney guy..

My original Hoskins transducer bit the dust two months ago and was replaced with a new FT-60 "Red Cube" by Electronics International. Changing the K-Factor to 68,000 on the JPI-700 took about 30 seconds. I am absolutely amazed at the fuel flow accuracy of the JPI. With each top-off I compare how much is loaded on-board versus how much the JPI said was used and every time it's been within a gallon. My next project is change the K-Factor on the old FT-101, which is no easy task.

Man, Bill echo's my thoughts exactly. I've always been frustrated by the mixture of Celsius and Fahrenheit and recently got all of my instrumentation to the point of where they read Fahrenheit, including an OAT probe for the JPI-700. Simply thumbing through the POH one will see the two units of measurement intertwined on the same page. Add to the mix that the Cylinder Head temperature gauge is calibrated in Fahrenheit yet the EGT gauge is Celsius. In this respect the plane is absolutely schizoid.

I'll have to remember to run out and get slip-on booties so I don't get your carpet dirty.

Luckily, when I first met my instructor to show him the plane, he already had all kinds of print outs on it. He is coming over tonight and we are going to study the manuals, and work on about 2 hrs of ground school. He goes by the book, and I think he will have me develop good habits from the begining. I am excited about this Mooney. It has been hangered its whole life, and it is in perfect condition, with a new engine and prop. I know I should have trained in a cessna, but I just couldnt pass this plane up. I think I will be a better pilot learning in this thing. Example: I bought a CRF450 dirt bike.. Wayyyyyyy too much bike for a newbie. I have ridden it for 2 years, and never had an issue with riding it... Like the Mooney, I respected it as a high performance machine, took my time learning it, and put safety first. I have a 3 year old son, and one due in a month... I can promise they are not going to lose their dad because he decided to be a jackass. CFI, is already making custom checklist. And we agreeed, even if it takes me 100 hrs, we are going to do it right.

Yeah, I am a little concerned with the fuel tanks leaking from hard landings....

I recently purchased a M20C. I have a CFI, that performed well in it, and we are going to start my traing this weekend. I know Mooneys are a lot of plane, but I am going to take my time and enjoy the process. I dont care if it will take me 100 hrs to get my license. I have 13 HRS in Cessna 152 and 172. And have loged some pretty interesting hrs. High winds, night, spins, night spins. Some can say its like putting a student driver in a high end sports car. But I am also 31, and have no interest in hot rodding either, or testing the aircrafts limits. I think its going to be great to develop the habits of deploying the retract from the get go. What advice do you guys have for traing in a mooney. I plan on renting a cessna for any high stress manuvers, because this plane is a cream puff.