Bolter

Quote: jetdriven Tom, so you are saying that the ring terminal sensor crushed under the factory probe reads actual CHT? I was under the impression that it read 40f low. We have a 3/8" ring terminal stype thermocouple under the factory CHT probe. Its not the JPI, but a Type J thermocouple.

Quote: AmigOne Dan, I have the same JPI EDM700 set up as you did in Cyl# 3 but never saw in the installation instructions that it needed a sleeve to protect it from the heat of the stack. The only sleeve and 2 black tiewraps that comes with he part is to protect the connection between the pigtail and the cable to the panel unit. Jose

Quote: HopePilot Awesome news. I'm going to have my checked too. Did they have it in stock at Spruce or did you have to special order it?

Background: I have a 4 channel JPI 700 in my J-model that was already installed when I bought the plane. It had a spark plug ring gasket CHT sensor for the #3 cylinder. For this year's annual, I decided it bothered me to have one cylinder reading 30-40°F high, and planned to install a JPI 5050-T sensor. The 5050-T would install into the standard CHT sensor location, and allow attaching of the JPI and the factory leads. When it came time to order it, I was referred to a replacement part number. It seems the 5050-T is phased out for a new model, the M113-3/8". The cost was the same ($105 at Spruce) Description and Function: This new one looks like the spark plug gasket type except it is 3/8" and works on the factory CHT sensor and is crushed in between the sensor and the cylinder, similarly. Today was my first flight with it, so I wanted to share that it works well. My temp's are now effectively identical on all cylinders, confirming that the spark plug type CHT sensor runs higher than "reality". And I feel a great relief looking at the JPI and seeing all things even, instead of ignoring a bad reading. I think that especially for LOP'ers who depend on accurate data, this is a worthwhile upgrade from the spark plug gasket version. Installation: Installation is a bit of a nuisance. You need to install an insulated sleeve over the sensor to protect it from the heat of the exhaust (I am guessing the function based on the appearance) AND string the factory wire out at the same time. I gave up, and put a slit in the insulated sleeve to allow sliding the sleeve over the sensor and provide a passage for the factory lead. The JPI lead is strung along the long axis of the sensor and is easily routed away from hot parts and into the existing wiring bundles. The JPI people have made it very easy if the factory CHT sensor has a built in lead coming straight off the top. Assuming all Mooney's use the same setup as mine, prepare to be frustrated if you don't put the slit. Also, remove the spark plug and get some room to work with. You can work around it, but it is not hard to remove the plug and get some much appreciated room for your fingers. In case it is not obvious, you will want to do this with both upper and lower cowlings removed, as well. -dan

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Quote: carqwik Fly your plane to Tulsa...I pursued a problem with the VS/Alt Hold in my KFC 150 and horsed around with various "fixes" for about 18 months as well....never fixed. Finally got so ticked off I called A/P Central for an appointment (a 3 month wait). They found the problem in an hour, and fixed it by the end of the day. (Turned out it was a cold solder joint in the computer somewhere....). Let me review though the fixes attempted prior to visiting Tulsa....Attitude Indicator OH'd, altimeter innards cleaned and checked, flight computer sent to Honeywell for bench test (tested ok...just goes to show what a waste that was given that there was a problem in the computer which they didn't find!), bridle cable tightened, pitch trim servo checked, etc. Lesson learned...don't waste time trying to figure it out hit or miss...just take the plane to Tulsa.

Quote: KSMooniac FWIW, I ran regular Aeroshell 80 for my break-in and did one local flight about 45 minutes at ~80% power LOP, and then a 4-hr XC at 80% LOP with the cowl flaps open the whole way and mine was done breaking-in after that XC.

For once, someone asked my to put in my two cents worth :-) (I did give more than that) Thanks for the site Craig. -dan

Quote: flyboy0681 There's no way I could do without Directv (or cable). I typically work 13 hour days and look forward to some respite in the form of TV entertainment. To lose Madmen, Breaking Bad, Homeland, Curb Your Enthusiasm, Boardwalk Empire, Dexter, Californication, The Borgias and The Newsroom would simply be too much. The cost is miniscule compared to the big ticket items that I have to pay for like health ($2k a month) and homeowners ($6k a year) insurance as well as college. I find network TV to be at its lowest point in decades. Look no further than Big Brother, The Bachelor or Extreme Makeover (which I call "Pity this family"). To be bound to the three networks would drive me to drink. And for what it's worth, I support my local PBS station. No sir, my Directv subscription is a very small price to pay to bypass network programming.

My annual starts on Monday and I am pulling the dual mags out (500 hours) for inspection and repair. If I see that the components are in good shape, I will assume that I am running things well enough to keep this bit from overheating. Assuming a relationship between CHT's, Oil Temp, and MAg temps, I don;t expect a problem. I live in a warm climate, but I am fastidious about keeping low CHT's on my 4-channel JPI and...wait for it...typically running LOP. And if I find issues with my mags, I will take pictures and share it as a data point. -dan

Quote: 231flyer Dan, I totally agree with your refrain on crusing to Alaska. We ran into several cruisers at the various activities all along the SE and to a person they all woold never do the cruise again. Apparently the ships are not as nice (older and smaller) compared to their Caribbean sisters and port calls are rushed given all there is to do. It is cool to "buzz" them though as you fly along the various inlets and fjords. The flying experience is unique to say the least. Simply amazing!!

Quote: jbs007 If possible, I would recommend travelling by RV through Alaska. I say that because I have done it. Don't get me wrong; being a bush pilot up there would be the ultimate, but if youre there to visit and have have a month or so... rvalaskatours.com. My uncle runs it and I worked for him for a summer when I was in college. Started in Northern BC, through Yukon territory and all over AK. We saw people from cruise ships and other touring means through the trip and it was obvious they didnt see half the wilderness, culture, or experience we got. They are very flexible and there is no harm contacting them to see if you could fly up there, rent an RV somewhere and participate in as little or as much of there month long tours as you want. Alaska is awesome!

Quote: AustinPynes anyone use AOPA for refi?

Quote: jetdriven Can we agree to diagree? Because we certainly disagree!

For quick mental calc's I use 10 gph to include climb and cruise. Actual is less, but 10 is a "safe" number and very easy math. I find that actual use varies a lot with how much I climb. For LA-Oregon last weekend I averaged 8.5 gph total due to LOP and long cruise stretches. For detailed planning, I use Voyager (Seattle Avionics) and put in detailed climb and cruise fuel burns for different altitudes. For example, cruising 12.5k at 152 KTAS I was down to 7.2 gph, but at a more common 5.5k at the same speed is 8.5 gph. I see a lot of variation here. I know that ROP I could not average 10 gph, since at typical altitudes I would need 11-12 gph to keep CHT's down. That may due to higher ambient temps in SoCal. At 10.5k I was 20-25°C over standard day.

Quote: driller Would someone know the difference between a KAP 150 and the KFC 150? thanks

Quote: rainman The further intel is that it was a "C" model from San Marcos TX that was being brought to LongBeach for some work. No tail number yet I'll probably find out more tomorrow.

On my JPI fuel flow, the K factor was hand scrawled on a little tag in the packaging with the transducer, not the display. It was hard to read, and the "K" looked like a "16" to me, so I thought it was something completely different until corrected by my A&P who knew what he was looking at. Look though everything you received a second time. Or maybe your A&P already entered in the value off the tag? FWIW, I adjsuted my K value over about 5 fill ups. 3 to confirm a typical reading, each at least 30 gallons, then 2 minor tweaks as it was over-reading more than I thought necessary even as a safety margin. -dan

Quote: KSMooniac I concur with ionel's techniques posted above. I'll only add that for the anticipated hot start, I'll idle the plane at 1100 RPM for a few seconds prior to shut down, and LEAVE THE THROTTLE ALONE. To restart, simply crank and feed the mixture in slowly as it starts to catch... that usually works great.

I don't have absolute answers, but can give you some reasssurance that you are not alone, so it may all be normal. On a hot day re-start (we are +100°F, often at this time of year) I will get some engine idling issues which could be described as surging, though I think it is more like unsteady idling, and is much less than 500 rpm in my case. I sometimes prime, sometimes don't, depending on the circumstances. This lasts about 30 seconds after starting. Certainly goes away after a run up. I tend to leave the throttle alone, and it clears out. I assume it is hot fuel lines that take a little bit of fuel flow to cool down. The sizzling sound has comfounded me, but I have learned to accept it. I hear it when I get my ears close to the cowling when pushing the plane back...regardless of touching the prop or not. I cannot pinpoint the source. So I am curious to see what theories show up, but I think there is nothing unusual in what you are observing. -dan

Quote: KSMooniac Dogs and cats living together!

Quote: txbyker I don't want to create a controversy but I have a question from one of the ROP-ers that has not ventured into the LOP-dom. I have gotten many conflicting signals as to the best place to lean at ROP. - Mooney purchase checkout by a reputable ex-factory test pilot - "run it 50 ROP" - POH - 25 ROP for economy, 100 ROP for power. - Bob Kromer - "I think you really have three choices of mixture settings with a normally aspirated engine. They are 1) 50 degrees rich of peak EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), 2) peak EGT, 3) 50 degrees lean of peak EGT. My choice? 50 degrees rich of peak EGT. All the time." - John Deakin - #65 Pelican Perch - " If you want the most power you can get at the higher altitudes, then you must operate ROP, and 50 ROP is a pretty good place to be for that. As you climb higher and higher, you can experiment with the mixture control, and find out where peak EGT occurs, then just ballpark about 50 ROP." - Mooneyspace veterans - run lower than 100 ROP. Am getting a bit confused. I have always run 50-100 ROP and now after reading all of the threads on LOP and other ROP questions I feel like I am messing up the engine. What say you?

Is this how the FAA stress tests controllers? Somebody faking being this bad? I need to rationalize how someone can be this bad. -dan

I found this 80's era eagle with a web search. I make no claim of ownership to this artwork, just right clicked in a google search window. -dan

Quote: 201er Is there any advantage to reducing RPM while LOP (in ROP, the lower the RPM the more efficient)? How does this correlate and apply in LOP?