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Bolter

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KPAE
  • Interests
    Flying
  • Reg #
    N99MS
  • Model
    M20R/S
  • Base
    KPAE

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  1. Specifcally, mine was in the calibration warning stage, and it was jsut easier to buy a new one. This is definitely out of calibration, but it will read something occasionally, so I believe it works, even if not accurate to within factory standards. I did actually find that I got a notable non-zero reading one day when leaves (Seattle, 4 seasons) had clogged the cabin air inlet of the pickup, so it was sucking air from somewhere else. Values dropped back to zero after clearing the leaves out. That was unexpected.
  2. I bought a new Sensorcon CO detector earlier, February of this year, and tossed the old one in my pickup truck. I am not sure which day I actually put it in the truck, but it was at least May of 2024, if not April. Let's say at least 7 months or more than 4500 hours. Turned it on and left it on. It is still going, and working. I have no idea what the accumulated time was on the old one, but it was bought in 2017 after Dan arranged the discount for us. In that 7 years, I flew about 600-700 hours. Does that mean it has been on for over 5000 hours? Most probably. I used to berate myself everytime I forgot to turn it off after a flight. I now realize it does not really matter if I forget it many times. I plan to keep it on until it dies, and will update this thread then.
  3. It must be the CD player... :-)
  4. The G5 in place of the HSI will work fine with the KAP150. I had this combination in a J, leaving the original AI in place for a future upgrade. It is the G5 as an AI that becomes an issue for the AP, but the GI 275 will work there. The mix and match of G5 and GI275 is aesthetically bad, though. There is also the frankenstein approach where you put a legacy AI in a spare space in the panel just for the AP to reference.
  5. I will add the another harsh reality, I have seen these projects get stalled, and the result was money put into an airframe that is now diassembled, parts scattered, and even further from airworthiness. Be prepared to do the job all at once. Have the time and money allotted before starting anything like this. IMO, like many others, if you have the money for the total project, buy the airworthy plane you can afford instead, and start flying now. -dan
  6. There is audio from CTAF. Of course nothing from the Grumman without electrical, but someone on the ground warned the CEssna that a Grumman was gaining on him. It is about mid of the audio where it happens.
  7. Later J's are 28 volt systems. The Gill 243 is a 28 volt, so the right concorde is probably RG24-15
  8. Would a pump overhaul shop like Aeromotors have something like this, since it is related?
  9. Some opinions are coming... as someone new to Mooney's and Mooneyspace, you may believe that the POH is a great reference. It is outdated, and perhaps was never very honest. It is a common OPINION that the best operation is to keep the throttle full open from takeoff, through cruise (except low altitudes where you may make too much power), and until descent. Do not intentionally run a lower MP because of a book setting. Use RPM and Mixture to control total power. Avoid the peak performance point of the POH of 50F rich of peak. Either be 100F rich or run lean A little unclear on what your conditions were, but 125 KIAS could be around 150 KTAS, which is a decent true airspeed for an E without speed mods running ROP. If you are reporting KIAS, it helps to know altitude, altimeter setting, and outside temp. Same when concerned about performance in general.
  10. Overall, the powered SIdewinder is using the same swing as a manual towbar, and not much wider where it is near the prop. Use that clearance as an indication of an issue. Of course you can hold the bar or Sidewinder at a lower point where the span between blades is larger.
  11. Both Tanis and Reiff endorse plugging it in continuosly. In the colder months, this is what I have done for several years. No evidence either way of damage to the engine. In very cold months, I add a blanket to the cowling to keep the temps up higher. An article from the Reiff site: http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Article-Fiorentini-ContinuousPreheating.pdf From Tanis FAQ: https://www.tanisaircraft.com/faq/can-i-leave-a-tanis-preheat-system-plugged-in-all-the-time/ Note there is a recommendation of less than 100F ambient, which should be easy to accomodate.
  12. I live on the western side of the Cascades, but if you are in this area, or I make another work trip to KSFF, you can see my 310HP STC Ovation with FIKI. For us, it was a great family hauler solution, better than hoped... long body for space, 310 HP STC for useful load, and FIKI for increased dispatch rate.
  13. I removed the just the vacuum system and a single AI as a single step. This includes front engine drive primary and battery backup and that was a total of 14.79 lb removed and mvoed CG ahead .07 inches. The standby pump+motor+frame was 7.4 lb on its own. My current UL is 1092 lb. (FIKI version of TKS installed)
  14. In case it matters to anyone, it is the same M22 Mustang. I would not be surprised if the Georgia area Craigslist Ad was an error post for the same plane in the wrong region, and it is now listed correctly in NM. I hope it goes to someone who will also keep it airworthy.
  15. Your experience is the same as I had on my J. Increase in consumption as the oil got darker. It prompted me to aim for 25 hour changes.
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