Bolter

Compare to the dimensions of B Kool or other aviation oriented portable AC. I know those will fit into a Mooney. They are also designed to pump the water out and overboard by a hose, because lifting the full cooler of water out the hatch is close to impossible as you have no good angle. You ask about getting the cooler into the airplane, but also think about getting it out when it is full of water. One big difference from the B Kool's and the like, is that there appears to be a genuine refrigeration cycle in it instead of just ice based cooling. This seems to me that it will be undersized for a cockpit, or over demanding on power. The battery life is vague as 3+ hours of misting and air conditioning... what about full tilt I thought Cirrus had AC built-in?

I would not let the hangar be the deal breaker to prevent getting your Mooney. I was 8 years in SoCal without a hangar, using a fuselage-only cover from Bruces. The sun created a line where you could tell what was exposed and what was covered...over an 8 year period. Rain was less than in Texas (my home state) but plenty of hard rain happened, and the cover and good maintenance prevented any leaks, ever. Of course, having a hangar is better, but not a necessity.

It is an opinion... For me, investing in the top autopilot upgrade, it should be the full package, or else it will not feel like a modern panel and AP. High dollar upgrades should be impactful. Unlike replacing my old JPI 830 with JPI primary 900. $10k, and it all feels pretty much the same. Of course, it depends on what you are used to, and if you really do not want to know better. I have always had electric trim airplanes, including my trainer Piper (I was spoiled). When my electric trim went out, and I had to manually tweak the trim for the AP, it became annoying, because I was used to not doing that. Over time, it became standard practice, and of course it is manageable. I finally got the AP and trim servo overhauled, and it felt so nice to have full service again. AP should be set it and forget it (yes, we still scan for safety, but never have to touch anything, is what I mean), especially if you are managing descents and approaches with the AP.

A fool is known by his speech, and a wise man by silence,

Flying a long cross country encourages higher altitudes (less power) and long periods of constant rpm. I believe there is a recommendation to not hold a constant RPM for the break-in period as well as keeping the power up. I agree that you should dwell on the CHT's as long as they are safe, until break-in completes and you see the characteristic drop in CHT's. Flying LOP, my #5 is always the hottested cylinder, and #1 the coolest, with about 70-80F difference. ROP has a different spread, but I also only fly ROP during transitions like a climb or low level flight just before getting cleared for a climb.

@Parker_Woodruff Have a great show. After so many years of insuring through you, I hope that your business continues to grow.

I switched to Basic Med as soon as it was offered, when I was in my mid-40's. I saw no change in insurance at the time. My rates appear to be generally static, except for the big jump when changed hull value from a J to an Ovation.

In 10 months from now, solicit the SoCal Mooney people, and you should be able to find someone to split fuel or co-schedule the same fuel stops and overnights. PM me, and I can help. One year (when I was still in SoCal) we just recognized a voice on the radio over Utah and added one to our "team" at the next fuel stop and overnights. For your planning, with my J, from SoCal, I planned 1 day to somewhere East of the Rockies (weather is your routing guide), then 1 day to Wisconsin to stage with the Mooney Caravan. Each day was usually a single fuel stop.

Is a bushing failure catastrophic or a progressive wear issue? If the owner furnished part is used, is the risk high, especially if used only to keep flying until the PMA part is available?

Most importantly, will we be able to buy Mooney branded clothing again?

Not to pick a fight, but there is a split of opinions on this. I personally do not consider speed brakes to be essential, and I would easily buy a plane without them, or if they were inop. Other than occasional testing for function, I plan my approaches without using the brakes. My J did not have them, so perhaps it is just drilled into me, despite the 20 KTAS extra cruise speed of the R. I do agree that maintaining the plane properly means fixing things you may not use (I just rebuilt mine at annual with Precise Flight, $2450 when one failed a function test at annual) so it is a warning to look for neglected maintenance items. Maintenance is a commitment. While there are different opinions on what is proper maintenance (I am well past TBO, and others overhaul at TBO automatically, for example) non-functioning items that are ignored are never proper maintenance. Of course, in the age of hard to get parts, INOP something waiting for a fix, is common, and I would not judge harshly for that. And completely my opinion about this plane, and being blunt and probably offending the seller, removing the O2 tank and leaving that system non-functioning rather than replacing it, INOP'ing the speed brakes because they became costly, are 2 examples of penny pinching. While the plane may be a good platform without corrosion, I would approach cautiously for what other systems are held together with speed tape and zip ties and value it accordingly. Little things can nickel and dime you, as well as keep you grounded instead of flying. When I searched for a FIKI Ovation, I valued the detailed and proactive maintenance of my Ovation that were done before I got it, and it has operated flawlessly for over 3 years. @Cruiser And I think the buyer of my J should feel the same way.

What about a lubrication issue? What gets the oil to heads, and is it flowing properly or blocked? Is it a common feed to all the heads, or each has its own feed? If the hydraulic push rod is in constant contact with the valve, and there is not the right amount of oil getting there, it become metal on metal instead of the proper oil film. Similar to what happens with the cams from dry starts. Or possibly if the CHT's are too high, the oil may be burning off instead of lubricating. Though that would leave coking indications, I think. Just thoughts on a different direction that creates wear at that interface. The push rod has equal force on the cam as the valve, but only one end is wearinng. The cam is constantly rotating, and the valve is pulsing, so the motion and contact patch area are different, even if the forces are the same. -dan

I took some photos when accessing my boost pump a few years ago. I have the original pump, rebuildable, if you are interested.

@Sam Judd Sending you a PM for the Switcheon

Then consider if the battery is not delivering the amps when needed. Has voltage so it will spin an unloaded starter motor, but not against a real load.