Shadrach

Man’s age old question…”Should I tap that?”

That’s a lot of trouble to go to when cracking the door a few inches generates a lot more flow. I’ve heard good things about the Kool scoop. The late, great @Bob_Belville had a passenger side window installed so that he could have dueling kool scoops for airflow coming through both windows.

Try browsing the POH download section there are several 77 POH’s starting on page two.

Dawson has one. Better get it while it's hot... https://aircraftpartsandsalvage.com/aircraft-parts/airframe/general-airframe/landing-gear/mooney-ldg-retract-assist-bungee-assy/

I feel certain a new Mooney pilot would then shift the conversation to how heavy the elevator feels.

this is getting pretty nerdy but I’ll bite… 1) Why are you using the static load radius to calculate the RPM of a spinning wheel? 2) Static load is very likely based on max rated load. The max rated load of each main tire exceeds my aircrafts empty weight. They are no where near the spec static load radius in use whether stationary or rolling down the runway.

I agree this is very likely some combination of inexperience and trim position.

Wow, they went 9 pages. I thought we at Mooneyspace were the best when it comes to bludgeoning deceased equine.

Angle of incidence is the angle between the wing chord and the longitudinal axis. Not the ground. The effective AOA at rotaion speed is determined by both by angle of incidence and landing gear geometry. For instance an RV6 and an RV6A have the same angle of incidence but very different AOAs in the 3 point position.

Yeah it's -16° at 2:00 in the afternoon where he's based. That blower fan better be an over achiever.

The prop and the crank, think about those little 1/4" AN4 bolts that are holding the engine mount to the airframe 3' way from that huge spinning gyro.

I was a late blooming nerd, to old to acquire fancy nerd credentials...

I'll be at he hangar tomorrow. Will get some images then.

I think your numbers are off a bit, but you probably lift off faster than my 75-80mph. The specified diameter range for Goodyear 5.00X5 and 6.00X6 is 13.65-14.2" and 16.8-17.5" respectively.

Not for my bird. Wheels spin freely when retracted.

That's odd. I wonder if it's due to the location of the rear mounted cooler on the J and heat after shut down compromising the adhesive. It's never been a problem for me with the front, lower cowl, mounted cooler. One just needs to ensure they don't forget to remove it when the OAT is borderline.

Without question, we'd be in big trouble if it wouldn't. Nevertheless, it's an easy load to eliminate.

Have you ever rotated the axis of a large spinning gyro 90°? The equipment will tolerate it, but it is not a kind thing to do to the wheel bearings and gear bushings. I'm sure you had a physics teacher do the bicycle wheel gyro demonstration. A Mooney wheel acts the same except for it's spinning at 1,300ish RPM. My POH also recommends wheel rotation be stopped.

You can make a seal out of rubber gasket material (1/8” IIRC). You can buy sheets of it at your local auto parts store. I would not bother taping it up unless you live in a dusty environment. You’ve been flying it as is since you bought the plane, another flight isn’t going to make a difference. Depending on environment, you might see elevated silicon in the oil from running without a gasket. It’s an easy fix. I would take care of it ASAP...

Is your defrost underperforming? I occasionally have issues during ground ops, but that about it. Preheating the cabin helps. If it’s not working sufficiently in flight, there may be more low hanging fruit to go after first.

I and many others have been utilizing aluminum tape as a means of winterizing the cooler for decades. Several hundred hours of winter flying on my bird alone. It does not deform so much as contour to the surface of the cooler to provide a perfect seal. It is very secure, yet easy to remove. The cooler can be blocked to whatever degree the season dictates. For me that’s 30% in late fall/early winter. As temperatures drop well below freezing, I add more. We have fairly manic weather here in the winter; it might drop from the 40s to near 0° in just a few days and then back. I can think of no better solution that offers the same combination of adjustability, ease of application, low cost and low weight. A fine example of Occam’s Razor. The design of the cowl and the oil cooler location makes for an cool running set up for IO360 powered airframes. Combination of low CHTs and direct airflow through the cooler mean that I think more about keeping things warm then how to cool them off. I know from experience that without an oil cooler blank, I would be looking at oil temps in a 150 to 160° range. You may be right about airflow to the Avionics. I don’t ever bother to close mine, even in very cold temperatures. However, there are rare occasions where it might be useful if not needed. I have a very good heater, but admit that I have not done a lot of flying in temps much below -20°. I’m sure there’s an OAT where any cold air coming into the cabin is undesirable.

Aluminum Duct tape is plenty strong enough to inhibit airflow through the cooler.

No one is disputing that water has breached your wings. It’s not personal. It seems you want us alll to admit we have a water problem too even though none of us has seen any evidence of water in our wings.

Sorry the images weren’t useful. Duly noted that the 1970 model is different. As far as the oil cooler goes, aluminum tape works well for partially (or totally) blocking flow through the cooler. I do it every year. My heater works really well but at -30° It’s a good idea to have layers.

Takes about 2 minutes with a scroll saw.