Shadrach

Quote: Kwixdraw Well aware of the useful load issue. Thats why I want to go with two thin layers to kill the resonance between the skins and the interior panels. I'm just looking to do it smarter not crazier. Since I'm rebuilding engine baffling too, I think I'm going to go with the McFarland low friction baffle seal to see if I can cut out some drumming vibration there too. If nothing else it might make the cowl flaps and hardware last a little longer. I'm told that with sound energy a small change makes a big difference.

Quote: jpusser Does anyone know what mag part number I would need from spruce, they are the original bandix. Does anyone have a used mag that will work for sale. It's a 62c

I have one of these and it was definatly worth the $20.00 that i paid for it... If you can find a reasonably priced hangar wench good luck... I've always gone with the more expensive ones! http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202198963/h_d2/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&keyword=Park+Smart+Black+Parking+Mat&jspStoreDir=hdus&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&navFlow=3&catalogId=10053&langId=-1&ddkey=Search If you can find a reasonably priced hangar wench good luck... I've always gone with the more expensive ones!

Quote: richardheitzman Getting a compass calibration done is very time consuming. First is your compass rose a "calibrated" compass rose? If so and you take a look at the N/S deviation and the E/W deviation and you cannot bring it below 2 degrees then you have other issues. First I would suggest that you look at the hardware that is used in installing the compass and anything near to the compass. Non Magnetic is the only hardware that can be used. If you dont have any issues there then you should have the tubular structure degaussed. Then if your headset is moving the compass as you move your head then you have too much metal in your head and that will cause issues with swinging the compass and using the compass in flight, although I have never seen that happen before. How close are you sitting to the compass? Take the compass out of the aircraft and make sure you do not have any metal on you and go out to the compass rose and "walk it around" to make sure you compass itself is not bad. That should put you on the right track. Make sure you are doing your calculations for the error adjustment correctly. Let me know how it goes.

I recently replaced my leaky old airpath compass with a new S.I.R.S unit. I swung it with an A&P on the field. I've spent a lot of time lining the plane up on the compass rose and then starting it to make the adjustments... It has been most disappointing. While the old airpath was at most 3 degrees out on a few cardinal headings it was shaky and required time to stabilize, the new S.I.R.S is very stable yet horribly uncorrectable. many of the headings are off by the maximum allowable 10 degrees. Do I need to degauss???...buy some mumetal? If so, why was the old airpath fine? When I move my head with my bose X headsets, the compass follows. So far I'm less than impressed with the "best whiskey compass" money can buy...

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I second qwixdraws comments on torquing the case bolts. However, I believe the torque value to be higher. I don't have a mx manual with me, but I recall 25ft/lbs as being the correct number. That being said, it's not a lot of torque and they willl break easily if over tightened...

I bought a Champion lead at annual this year because of a broken elbow fitting at the plug. Champion in their infinite wisdom, stopped selling these as stand alone parts. I was able to purchase a single lead from http://www.texair.com/ Ask for Lindy, she was most helpful. IIRC the lead was about $65.00 and will have plugs that work with either Slick or Bendix mags. If you have the elbow style leads be sure to save all the hardware as some of the pieces are not available as stand alone parts. Good to have spares as I have seen engine vibration can take them out over time. Best of luck!

Quote: jpusser My 62C is giving a bad mag check on the left side. I checked the leads and one is intermittent. Not Sure if it would be the wire or mag. The cylinder with the bad wire is running colder when run on the bad mag. Plugs are new and checked good. The only prior ignition problems are a little miss in the engine after about 30 min of flight. The bad mag check is dropping about 300 rpm.

Quote: takair For the front seal, prop will need to come off, old seal removed, cleaned up, new seal bonded and installed. Key here is a good cleaning job so the glue holds. There is a tool for the solid one. Split is a little easier to install, but may leak more often if not done right. Allow your mecahnic time to do it right. Reinstall the prop with a new O'ring (often forgotten) and then safety wire. Torquing and safetying the bolts takes some time due to the nature of the installation. Ideally you should have two people for removal and installation of the prop (more labor). You might be able to help your mechanic with this part to save cost. It can be done with one, just a little harder. I personally think 2.5 is a little optimistic, but I'm a little slower than some. As Scott said, be sure that is where the leak is, it's alot of work if this is not it. However, it is pretty obvious if the inside of the flywheel is really wet. A little oil is normal, but it will not appear "fresh". Good luck.

Quote: Bnicolette Thanks guys. I do remember my mechanic saying that, that seal was leaking just a little bit, and that was about a month ago. And now that it is showing it's ugly face on my cowl, I think it is time to get it taken care of before I start to notice it on the windshield. Has anybody had this done recently? How much time does it take the mechanic to do it and whats the part cost? I had him de-cowl the airplane after I had about 20 hours on the airplane just to make sure everything was looking okay. He found a touch of oil around the mag and also the crankshaft seal area, so that has got to be what it doing it. On the note of oil.........I am currently using Aeroshell 100W as that is what the previous owner had been using in it and thats what they put in during the prebuy/annual in February. However, it was a Florida airplane and given the climate here in Southwest PA, I think I am going to change it out to Phillips XC and use Camgaurd. Thoughts on oil??? Is there anything bad about the Phillips that I should consider not going that route? Again, thanks for the input for a "rookie" Mooney guy. Brett

Quote: KLRDMD

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Quote: N201MKTurbo I've had a plane with the M20 Turbo for 7 years and I think it is a better plane then a 231. It has been fairly trouble free. I had to get the pressure controller and turbo overhauled, the turbo mount has cracked a couple of times, an exhaust pipe cracked, had to replace the seal in the scavenger pump, the exhaust heat shields have broken a couple of times.... Well maybe not that trouble free, but not much more then any other turbo installation. I have had the plane up to FL220. The critical altitude is supposed to be FL190, but mine is FL210, above that the manifold pressure is a bit unstable. I have seen ground speeds as high as 260 KTS flying up high. It doesn't happen often but is cool when it does!

Quote: aviatoreb FIFY...

Quote: Parker_Woodruff 80 knots in the flare? That is much too fast and poor technique. Pitch for Airspeed, power for altitude. No need for speedbrakes in the flare either. They look cool, but deploy them after touchdown or use them in the approach...in the flare? eh... Some Pilots feel uncomfortable at 70 KIAS, but come on...80 KIAS in the flare? What's he flying... a 4300 lb Mooney?

This formum software is so weird... another day, another digifart... Anyway. I would finally say that the best way to improve your landings is to practice steep power off approaches starting abeam the numbers on downwind. Get used to compensating for different wind conditions at the same airport and then branch out. I practice flying steep finals power off using nothing but elevator. I control my final approach slope by alternating between slowing the plane to create a flat to nose up pitch high rate of sink and nose down glide to maintain speed of 1.2 time stall. No power descents at 1.2 times stall require on round out. The descent arrests nicely as you flare in ground effect and the mains will grease right on leaving enough energy to hold the nose off for a few second. The stall horn will sound immediately in the flare if you're on speed. I cannot imagine why this would not work for all Mooneys. Additionally, it helps you tighten up your patterns. I like to practice 180-degree power off approaches from downwind as well. It has helped tremendously with my approach and landing skills. I know that many are concerned about stall/spin in the pattern. I think that practicing these techniques will actually prevent the stall spin F’up in the pattern...

Quote: aviatoreb Hi Folks. This has been a very informative thread. Thank you. I just got a Mooney Rocket and I am learning how it likes to land. I was very surprised to see how the former owner was landing the airplane when he was demo'ing it for me, and it is nothing like anyone here is mentioning. He would land with the speed brakes deployed and flaps configured for go around. Also he was landing much faster than I would expect. 90kts on short final and 80kts at flare. Normally that is a recipe for an epic float. With speed brakes there is no float despite the high speed and it sets down easily, firmly although way to fast in my opinion with lots of kinetic energy to scrub before it rolls to the end of the runway. I have a little time in a C and so I know a little of the standard way. Still I am very curious of your collective opinions of this method of landing and if some variation might be a good idea. Maybe speed brakes out and 5 knots slower might be a good thing? I am just exploring the idea. I don't think he is alone in landing with speed brakes either; I actually spoke to a Bravo pilot many months back who also landed with speedbrakes deployed. His take was also that it made landings easier and that if need be there is lots of power to go around even with brakes deployed if they were to get stuck or something.

Quote: 1964-M20E You may be getting the nose steering pivot bushing confused with the nose retraction truss. I do not believe they have oversized nose gear pivot bushing or nose gear retraction truss bushings. LASAR has the oversized nose pivot bushing which is 0.620” O.D. original from Mooney, 0.625” O.D. STC from LASAR and LASAR can do a second over size of 0.630” O.D. but you have to send it to them. Regardless mine already has the 0.625” LASAR STC steering pivot bushing.

Are you planning on replacing the bolt/bush with standard, or the STC'd oversize from LASAR?

Quote: scottfromiowa You don't have to explain to me Ross. I knew, or felt I knew you had your tongue in cheek. Stereotypes come from somewhere, right? My wife avoids WalMart like the plague...I enjoy it as I love to people watch and the entertainment is first class in C.R. That intial post is older than dirt....It was flat-lining until you yelled "Clear"...

How do you know this? Maybe it is related.