Shadrach

Quote: jetdriven Our full rich SL, full throttle 2700 RPM FF is 18.2 GPH. CHT level altitude at SL like this is 365, so we can't go leaner. We start leaning around 1000' to the target EGT, which on #1, 2, or 3 is 1385 dF. Fuel flow and percent of power decreases with altitude. CHT around 360-380. We cruise climb ~120 MPH with cowl flaps trailed, if changing altitudes in cruise try leaving them closed and climb at 10 MPH less than cruise airspeed. I havent tried LOP above 75% power but M20J doesnt climb well at reduced power, the most LOP WOT power you could make staying out of the red box is 80-85%, so I dont think it will work well in an NA IO-360. YMMV

Quote: scottfromiowa Any suggestions on fuel flow during climb that is sweet spot for I0360A1A? At what altitude do you start to lean? It seems that using fuel flow vs. EGT would be easier in climb. Thoughts/strategies? When I tried leaning in climb (before) using EGT I think I was to aggressive as cylinder temps started climbing...This was pre-fuel flow monitor (installed in December). I do a cruise climb 120MPH with cowl flaps open. My fuel flow is about 15gph running 2650RPM.

Quote: DaV8or

Quote: WardHolbrook

Quote: rdv Has anyone experimented with running LOP without balanced injectors? Is it safe to experiment with the help of engine analyzer only? (no fuel flow) Ryan

Quote: crxcte I wonder how much pressure actually runs through these hoses?

Do you have a pic of what you're talking about? I just had 2 hoses made up on the field and installed them on my F. It was not easy, but far from impossible. When you say "line holder" are you talking about an "Adel Clamp" (pic below)?...

Quote: danb35 You don't have an issue because the EGT isn't required. If it were, though, the simple fact that you have an STC isn't enough--that STC has to specifically allow use of the engine monitor to replace the primary engine instruments, and most engine monitor STCs don't. The only ones I know of are the new multicolor displays that show everything on a single screen. What your STC most likely allows (as my UBG-16 STC does) is installation of the monitor as a supplemental instrument--it can't replace any required instrument, but you can have the extra information.

I bought one at last annual. Russell at SWTA was the best deal going by nearly $100... I checked 4 places...

That explains the 3 blade...

Check your Gmail account...

What kind of indicator do you have?

Time to call the factory...

Are you using all new thermocouples (probes) or reusing an old one? What kind of unit. Did you trim the wire length? In some units the gauge will only work with a thermocouple of a specific resistance (ohm rating) and specific length wires.

Quote: kerry You could consider flushing it with automatic transmission fluid. I use ATF type F as brake fluid. I've been told its the same specs as aviation brake fluid. Just a thought.

Quote: Parker_Woodruff I'm not too concerned over manual & electric gear, mainly because the Mooney gear is the simplest of any electric landing gear I've ever dealt with. However, I would absolutely love having your RayJay TN system and feel it's the single greatest attribute of your plane.

I have flown both F's and J's... Both are very nice aircraft. Block time wise there will likely be less than 10kts difference between the 2 airplanes in stock form. If I had a choice I would take a well modified 66-early 68 F with manual gear/flaps over a J every time...no exceptions. The modded F will be lighter, have better payload and be just as fast (some maybe faster, but that's heresay). There are some poorly modded birds out there, so fly it and get back to us with you numbers. The GW increase of 160lbs (to 2900lbs) on the later Js just put's their payloads back into F territory. The later J's do OK at the 2900lb GW, but you can certainly feel it. My ugly old box stock F with a heavy 50amp Generator, ADF, remote compass and other crap has a FF payload of just under 700lbs. I like Js a lot, but IMHO there is little reason (I can think of none) to by one over a similaly equiped and moded F unless you just want to spend a bit more.

Well done Becca! Sounds like a well executed first attempt...

Quote: allsmiles Oh yes my friend Ross! I hope you don't mind I'm calling you a friend! I thought you would bite after my last posting! (1) I don't mind you disagreeing but if you would please interpert my postings correctly. I never ever ever said that little or no innovation occurs outside the factory. As I never ever said that every piece of machinery was engineered to the max by the factory. I have no reason not to believe you, factory credentials or not. What I did say in no uncertain terms is that the factory engineers the engines so well and with built in margins precisely because they don't engineer it to the max if you know what I mean. Margins like these have saved many ignorant pilots out there from destroying their engines. I include myself in that group of ignorant pilots. I read a lot on these things and I am constantly learning.(2) Personally I don't know everything there is to know and I am a firm believer in that some things are best left to the professionals with the know how. Engine management is one of those things that I leave to and learn from professional engineers who designed it tested it and have the data behind it.(3) Incidentally these are the same people who put their money where their mouth is and take the responsibility by signing on the dotted line. I will adhere to Lycoming recommendations. Whose recommendations do you adhere to?(4)

Quote: RJBrown When flying with small children the switch became part of my procedure while deplaning. Curious minds and small fingers are attracted to unknown switches. I find it absolutely unreasonable that a "Qualified?" mechanic would fail to find it IMMEDIATLY. The sort of thing that a knowledgeable tech should KNOW to check first. WAY to common to over look. If he bills you for his STUPIDITY he is a crook. Even if he was unaware of the switch finding such a draw is EASY. To change the battery just shows that the person working on you plane is a "parts changer" NOT a real Mechanic. I have owned a auto repair shop for 30 years and I fix cars for a living. If one of my techs made such a rookie mistake I would apologise profusely for such ignorance and not let you pay a thing.

Quote: allsmiles If needed to be there Lycoming would have put it there! I don't want anything wedged or loose in my engine compartment. I'm a little weird this way!

Quote: takair Thanks for the explanation, makes more sense now. Will have to look closer at my E model next time I have the cowl off. My CHT are fairly even, #2 is hottest. Hottest EGT is number 3. I suspect this would only help CHT.

Take some time to familiarize yourself with the cylinder head design of the Lyc angle valve 360 (I'm not sure about the parallel valve engines). See the 1st attached photo...I'm shining a shop light in the lower cowl compartment. Looking down from the top through the cylinder head fins of cylinders #1 and #3, it's appearant that there is no light visible on the back side of cylinder #3 (the rear cylinder)... This is because the fins do not encircle the cylinder barrel completely. This is obvious when looking at the rear side of cylinder one (2nd attached photo). However, there is airflow around cyl #1 because it buts up against the front side of cyl#3. The back side of cyl #3 is butted up against the baffle wall. Mooney tried to solve this by by putting a pocket in the back side of the passenger side baffle wall (see 3rd attached pic) Cessna did not, and I understand that Cardinals suffer from a higher temps on cyl#3 for that reason. It is rumored that George Braly (of GAMI fame) came up with the "baffle seal wedge fix" to help the Cardinal baffle circulate air around cyl #3. I did it because "the pocket" did not seem to be letting enough airflow through as #3 was always significantly hotter. The "wedge" holds the the baffle wall off the cylinder allowing for additional airflow. I did a number of baffle tweaks during the engine install so the effects are probably cumulative. None the less, cyl #3 now runs about 50df cooler than before.

Quote: Jeff_S I just learned something about my engine that helps explain some readings on the JPI. With the cowling off for an oil change, I noticed a single sensor wire attached to the top spark plug on #3, with nothing on the others. My A/P said that's because the factory CHT sensor uses the bottom plug, so the original installers put the #3 JPI sensor on the top while putting all the other JPI sensors on the bottom. And I have always noticed that #3 CHT gets the hottest in climb on the JPI. Once in cruise they level out nicely. It all makes sense to me. Heat rises, and airflow in climb isn't as strong as in cruise, plus power is higher of course. Just one more little mystery solved.

Good luck, I have heard good things about Barry mounts as well, which will probably save you about $100 over the Lord mounts. Maybe someone else can ring in on that. This is a good read, even if you're not participating, it's good to know the process. As I said before, I don't think it's good if you can feel vibration through the yoke an seat... http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/Alining%20Engine%20Using%20Shims/ALIGNING_YOUR_ENGINE.HTM