Shadrach

I doubt that LOP/ROP makes a huge difference in attaining TBO if both are done properly. Heat is the enemy of engine life and it can be controlled either way. I will say that our oil stays much cleaner LOP.

Yes, in a word. But to understand requires a bit more study. LOP uses air in addition to what's used for combustion to manage the combustion event. ROP uses fuel in addition to what's used for combustion to manage the combustion event. With either method, power decrease with altitude. This means that as you climb, the engine will require less surplus fuel (if ROP) or less surplus air (if LOP) for cooling. Said simply, as you climb you don't need to be as far LOP or ROP (depending on what your using) to maintain cool CHTs. IIRC the lowest "Brake Specific Fuel Consumption" (BSFC) occurs at around 45 LOP. But the difference in BSFC between peak and 45 LOP is not huge. BSFC simply means the most hp for a given amount of fuel. In a normally aspirated AC it is impractical to fly at 45 LOP at altitude because the power loss at altitude; it's also unnecessary from a cooling standpoint . I run about 5-10LOP at altitude and 45-55 LOP if I'm running down the coast at 250ft msl. To put a finer point on what Dave said calculating power when LOP is a function of fuel flow. This is because when LOP, all of the fuel running through the engine is being burned to produce power as opposed to ROP, wherein some of the fuel is not burned. Nit picking just a bit, but the actual LOP multiple for 200hp Lyc is about 15.1 X FF = HP. The 14.9 number is for 8.5 to 1 compression ratio engines; 200HP Lycs are 8.7 to 1 C/R. All of the above may feel like drinking from a fire hose. When I said you needed to read the articles and then read them again (3rd time would not hurt), I was not trying to be snarky. There are multiple concepts at play. It is easier to understand them individually and then bring them together. Deakin does a great job of breaking it down. Whether you run ROP or LOP, the articles will give you a great deal of info about what is happening inside your engine. Good luck! but when higher, you will be developing less power and will not need to be as

1) My Mooney POH recommends 100ROP or peak in cruise, it makes no recommendation to run 50 or 75 ROP. 2) Both Lyc and Cont are both horizontally opposed, fixed timing, air-cooled engines...in terms of combustion theory, they are the same... The fact that the author operates a Beech and uses Conti as an example is anecdotal... 3) Every question you've asked in this thread is answered in the articles that you've "already read". Perhaps you should read them again...and then maybe again. 4) If you're looking for a power setting cookbook, than keep using the recipes in your POH... 5) If you're concerned about an GAMI/APS conspiracy, your hottest cylinder must be in on the conspiracy by "conspiring" to run 20df... Lastly, I have never taken nor given APS or GAMI a penny, but that "group of people" have been rather generous with the material they've assembled. Moreover, they freely admit that almost everything that they are advocating was SOP for Pratt & Witney before the first Mooney or Bonanza rolled off the line. All they've done is put a finer point on it and disseminate the info. You've been led to water (or kool-aid as some believe), whether you drink or not is up to you... Either way, your little Lyc will likely be OK...for a while...Good luck!

Maybe you were surprised it was 20df cooler, but I'm not. Your assigned reading is below... It's best you understand what's happening when you turn the mixture knob so that you can make an educated decision about how to run your engine depending on your mission... Pelican's Perch #63: Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 1) Pelican's Perch #64: Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 2 — The Climb) Pelican's Perch #65: Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 3 -- Cruise) Pelican's Perch #66: Where Should I Run My Engine? (Part 4 -- Descent)

PK, If I were to show you to pieces of metal, one that had been painted and one that had been powder coated; I doubt that you'd be able to tell me which was which. The finishes would likely not be exactly the same, but a proper powder coat can produces a smooth glossy finish, and is far more durable. It is true that it is not easy to match on touch up, but the same can be said for paint (unless you save a batch of the original, which will not last forever).

"can you shoot the prop RPM gauge through the windshield?" Absolutely, The instructions will tell you to make sure the sun is at you're back, but I've never had trouble with mine getting a reading. You did not mention when the prop was last worked on, and what was done. Also, has the plane been like this since you've owned it?

I agree with Magnus, this appears to be a prop issue. Has the plane always been this way? What do you're prop logs show? Also, consider ordering one of these: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&client=safari&rls=en&q=Hangar+9+tach&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1305&bih=653&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3183190388327094138&sa=X&ei=aK38TZKxDMX30gGJz7zYAw&ved=0CFgQ8wIwAA#ps-sellers I keep one in the plane and check RPM regularly on climb out. It is consistently between 2700-2730 depending on conditions. If one were trying to prevent oil form from going to the prop hub, it seems it would be far easier to temporarily block the prop line at the front of the engine then to install a plate designed for fixed pitch applications...

This is what the cowl flap controls look like on an F model. The center button must be depresses to move the the actuator in either direction. Infinitely adjustable, very simple and light weight. Hat tip to DaV8or as it's a pic of his plane...

I try to never exceed 400 and I would have to be pretty ham fisted to get there... at crossing 380 I'll start to take remedial action by enrichening or leaning depending on the circumstances... See Pratt & Whitney graph below...

For some reason I cannot quote you. WRT ICPs, the only indication we have of ICP in flight is CHT... 40-45df ROP is the hottest place to run an engine there is ZERO utility in running an engine in that range. It does not produce the most power, just the most heat. Any setting Richer or Leaner than the 40-45ROP range will produce cooler CHTs. How much cooler depends on how far rich or lean of that point you are.

201er, Your looking at this wrong. Your EGT temp spread is meaningless in cruise. EGT number valuse are meaningless in cruise. Find the richest cylinder (last to peak) and see if you can run leaner than peak on that one. How far you can go LOP will determine your LOP options. My IO360 (67M20F) with stock injectors will go to nearly 100LOP before it stumbles. Ram air will give me an additional -15-20df EGT on the lean side. I can and do run WOTRAOLOP right down on the deck and keep all chts below 350 easily. MY EGT number values very by as much as 160df...but that's not relevant. Also, My CHTs tighten up nicely on the lean side. Short hop at 3500ft (cruise DA around 4400) on Tue CHTs were : 30LOP 151kts #1-295df #2-331df #3-327df #4-322df Whom ever told you that the 5-10 knot speed speed differential running LOP has a measurable effect on cooling at cruise speeds was full of it... There are O360s hung on FG aircraft that cruise 50kts slower than your AC at the same power level and they manage to do so with the cowl flaps closed without overheating...

Perhaps there was a communication issue with the mechanic, and he thinks your buddy want to install your used equipment as a primary instrument (I don't know what Piper had OEM). Installing as a secondary does not require an STC (not available for the EDM700 anyway) and my mechanic felt it was a minor alteration with no field approval required.

Tony, Airtex seperates it's M20X interior bits as 1955-64 and 1965 and later. They have what you need...

I dont' know how many hours were on the prop, however it sounds like you were treated very fairly. One can hardly expect to trash an old prop that is past or near OH and expect it to be replaced with new. $1000 is nothing for a new Hartzell full feathering 3 blade...

This one is close-ish to you but alas has electric gear... Nice looking bird and may likely sell in the mid 40s... http://www.controller.com/listingsdetail/aircraft-for-sale/MOONEY-M20F/1967-MOONEY-M20F/1184263.htm? This is my idea of the best of old and new...If I could shoehorn a RayJay turbo-normalizer in there you'd have my idea of the perfect engine airframe combo... That should be a 160kt bird if not nearly. Unfortunately, the speed claims in the add make it sound like a dog. But then, he's a 25X25er...so who knows what it'll do when flown properly... http://www.trade-a-plane.com/detail/Single+Engine+Piston/1967/Mooney/M20F/1330610.html

So much lore about OH vs reman vs factory new... If the OH'd to specs, it hardly matters who does the assembling as long as they're competent. The difference in parts is that in a factory OH or reman, is that you have no idea where or how old the reused parts are in your engine are. With a field OH you are reusing crank, cam, connecting rods etc... Factory Reman/OH has a pile of parts that passed as serviceable and that's what goes into your bird. When we did our field OH 10 years ago, I wanted to reuse as much of our 33 year old (at the time) engine as possible. Why??? because I knew that the metallurgy was sound. I was not liking the possibility of a crank or rod AD... The factory may offer better support if something goes wrong, and then they might not. I'd take a personally known to me, local engine builder over a parts bin Franken-rebuild any day. If I were buying a used plane, I'd try and find one close to TBO so as to be ready to OH it anyway or low time factory new. I am just as concerned with how it was flown as I am with how it was built. I put 0 credence in the "0 time reman"...

I guess its a weight thing... My F will out climb the Bravo in the hangar across from me to 3500ft in the winter time...

Any Mooney will "land" at a significant speed above stall speed...the question is what happens if you pull back on the yoke... I could fly my F on at 90,100,120, but I would not call it landing... I would call it flying in really low ground effect...

Quote: jetdriven didnt the 68 have the twisted wing?

I would suggest that if you're going to get an F model, try and find an earlier one... 1968 on back. I think that the manual gear/flaps/cowl flaps are the best part of vintage Mooney ownership. I also prefer the early instrument access skins as opposed to the later access plate. I mean no offense to the owners of later models, I just like some of the nuances of the earlier birds as well as their lighter weight. Early F's have about the best fuel/payload of any Mooney model made. I have just under 1060 useful load to play with. 500nm with 800lbs payload is very doable...

Can you get remaned cyl for an angle valve lyc? I thought your options were field OH'd or factory new...

Richard, I did not know you were an ex-factory employee, would you explain the failure mode???

I suspect that he may have gotten tipped off that the Louisville FSDO was going to pay him a visit.

I think you've gotten some good advice on OH. So I'm gonna play "Devils Advocate"... 1200hrs is mid time for an angle valve lyc. Has the plane been hangared it's whole life? How many of the 1200 did you put in the engine? Compressions? Have you been doing oil analysis? How does it perform? Odd sound??? Many...and I mean MANYYYYYY....IO360s have done 3 time the hours and twice the calander time that yours has. Why so quick to pitch it? Confidence is a big deal, but if it's not based in reality, it's not really good for anything but your disposition. You've said nothing of consequence about the engine other then you don't trust it. I'm not saying your wrong, but without some evidence as to why, your feelings seem to be based in emotion... You've a few recently replaced wear items as well, so it looks as if your trying to keep up with MX. I hate seeing fried 30 yr old hoses, but it is oh so common... You may already know this, but a new engine can cause major headaches as well. All things being equal, I'd feel safer behind a 1000hr engine than a 100hr engine. This column has some pretty interesting ideas and stats on catastrophic engine failure. According to the source in the article, the first 4 years and 499 hours show the greatest likelihood of a failure. http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/savvy_aviator_45_how_risky_is_going_past_tbo_195241-1.html

Quote: N9154V If I purchased brand Z electronics used, and there was an emergency AD note against these electronics, how would the manufacturer or the FAA notify me? IN my humble opinion, the manufacturer should inspect and repair, at a reasonable cost these electronics, so that I may be able to purchase and have them installed according to the STC. If you can sue Cirrus for flying your plane into a building or VFR into IFR, what would many widows do with an electronics manufacturer? Would you want to bye an electronic panel that has been submerged and not reinspected? I wouldn't. Ron