Shadrach

yup, 3000 is fine, but would you have tried it on an August afternoon? What RPM were you running?

If you don't get, it then don't do it. There is so much info out there for free, that I'm sure you've weighed the pros and cons as you see them. My reasons are: 1) It facilitates a combustion event in which the peak effective pressure and the mean effective pressure are much closer together than the settings "ROCOMMENDED" in the POH. A "rich of stoic" combustion event has higher peaks and lower valleys. Which is harder and hotter on an engine, although the engines have demonstrated that they will take it...for a while. 2) It's always cooler for a given power setting then 100ROP at that power setting and far coller than 50ROP. 3) My oil stays much cleaner. 5) My belly stays somewhat cleaner. 6) It eliminate CO form the exhaust gases 7) BSFC goes up considerably when compared to 100ROP and even more so at lower altiudes where the POH "RECOMMEDATIONS" forbid leaning. 7) oh and I almost forgot, it saves gas...how much depends on what your doing but it will always produce more with less than ROP... I am sure there are others I could come up with, but we dont wanna hijack... :-) and it save .

"And I will add that yes, throttle stays WOT for climbout and cruise at altitude, but in low-mid altitude cruise I tend to bring it back to reduce power a little bit to let me get to LOP settings safely. Of course, IFR ops and normal descent/landings require varied use of throttle as necessary." So let me understand this... You climb ROP WOT. Your plane runs well LOP. You like to cruise LOP. You understand that when running LOP, air is used in surplus to slow the combusion event (resulting in cooler temps). But when at mid to low alt, you reduce throttle (block surplus air) to the engine and create turbulance in the induction system to the engine "just to let you get to ROP safely"...? It'll work out ok because the fuel servo reduces FF when you reduce throttle (power) , but if it runs as well as most 4 cyl lycs do LOP you should be able to run it as cool LOP at 200ft as you can at 7500ft... Why not just pull to deceleration richen to peak and lean... My engine does beautifully at 1500ft WOTRAO 28.5" 2500rpm and 45 LOP...in the dead heat of a Mid-Atlantic summer...

No N4352H, to my knowledge, Lycoming has never published a "recipe book" specific to their engines and I doubt their legal department will ever recommend that they do so.

I am confused as to what your saying with regards to "meat left". "Honing" is not the same as "boring", if your cylinders are in spec, they should be able to re-hone and re-ring the hole affair. If the barrels are out of spec @ 700hrs, then I don't think that they were likely at new service limits when the engine was OH'd. Lyc's break in proceedures have been in practice since and working well since....well since Lycomings started being produced. Some folk break engines in LOP. I would break my engine in this way if I had a new engine install and was at my current locale. However, IIRC, your field is subject to higher DAs. If that is the case, you will need to do the break-in at a min 75% power controlling CHT with mixture on the rich side... I would personally not try to break in an engine at with DA's above 3000. It would probably work out fine at times, but is not ideal. If the DA is high enough to necesitate significant leaning to achieve 75% power, I would avoid flying that day. I would not my alter my personal CHT redline for break in - 380 is about the max I would want to see. Follow the Lyc procedures and you'll be fine. With steel cylinders, you're rings should seated inside of 5 hours...if they're not seated inside 10hrs, they're likey glazed again.

Which is not so current today...of course, if you get her up "on the step" it won't really matter where you run her as the reduction in induced drag will make up for any short comings in the POH recommendations!!!

yup, and I'll throw this into the mix flyboy. I never go full rich on descent or in the pattern... I see no need to do so. If I need to go around, I'll just push both knobs in. I've only had to go around twice and it's never been a dramatic situation, though I understand that it can be... I do enrichen in decent, but only to keep the combustion event in the combustion chamber and out of the exhaust (those of you that pull the throttle back while in LOP cruise should know what I mean). I almost always land full flaps, unless the wind is >20kt X-wind component. Oh and just to stir the pot, I abhor the crab and kick crosswind landing method...

Check the TCDS for your engine type (faa.gov) I believe it gives the minimum oil amount needed for constant operations. I personally always keep it above 5.5qts unless I know I'll be changing the oil in the next few hours. Also, at least in my case, I have anecdotal evidence that my plane burns more oil at higher oil temps. In the winter, even with the cooler "winterized" it will rarely exceed 180. In the summer I see 210-215. My airplane uses more oil at the higher temps. YMMV...

201er, Your oil pressure likely dropped because your oil temp has higher. It works like this.. Less oil lubing the same amount of engine has to carry more heat. Hotter oil will have a lower viscosity. A system pumping lower viscosity oil will show will show lower pressure...

201er, Two things: 1) I believe that your current SOP for Take off, cruise and decent to landing are fine. My throttle stays forward until I need to slow down. That would be because of redline, or coming into the pattern, which I will happily do at 150 to 160KIAS and still be where I need to abeam the numbers. 2)Just to pick nits, there is no RPM range truly outside the range of the governor. There are however airspeed and power combinations that are outside the range of the fine pitch (prop control full forward) stops. Thought of another way, you can almost always reduce RPM by pulling the prop control back, but you will not always to be able to go red line going forward. I cycle my prop on taxi during taxi between 1200 and 1000rpm. I do not do a 1700 rpm run up.

You're right Dan, but I'm still not sure that I want video of me doing mx on my AC floating around the interwebs. I can see the local "headline"...."Prior to the incident, the Pilot had recently posted video of maintenance he was performing on the internet"...

I think a DYI video section would be nice, but it is also a bit of a slippery slope.

I should have been more clear. When I change the oil. I fill to 7qts, this will show about 6.5 on the dipstick after the engine is run and the new filter fills up. Moving forward from there, I add whenever it drops below 5.5qts and try to avoid going as low as five. I do 30 hr oil changes between which I've added as little as 1qt or as much as 2qts depending on the type of flying I'm doing and the OAT. It uses a qt every 12 to 15hrs on average, a little more in the hot summer months... I just did my first oil change on an IRAN'd engine (cracked crankcase) at 11.2hrs and I needed to add no oil during that period, even with all of the spillage that came with having the prop off twice... but thats another story!

My bad...I should have looked at the sig line. I read the "SOS" in the subject line and immediately thought "Shower of Sparks" as in Bendix S20/200/1200. Duh... The D2000/3000 were INMO the worst idea in the history of mag installs.... Hmmm...lets make it more complicated and give it a single point of failure... You may have trouble finding parts. TCM stopped supporting these early last year...

My bad...I should have looked at the sig line. I read the "SOS" in the subject line and immediately thought "Shower of Sparks" as in Bendix S20/200/1200. Duh... The D2000/3000 were INMO the worst idea in the history of mag installs.... Hmmm...lets make it more complicated and give it a single point of failure... You may have trouble finding parts. TCM stopped supporting these early last year...

Typically add at 5qts never really let it get to 5. Were you in cruise with "Low oil pressure" came about. What was the oil temp? An IO360 will run fine on 4qts of oil. Your drop in pressure was likely related to the oil being hotter(which indirectly is related to quantity) than you're used to.

Are we talking Bendix Mags? I have never understood why A&Ps are so loth to open them up. They are thing of beauty when it comes to function and a good wrench can R&R in under 3 hours. If there is oil getting to the mag, he should be more than capable of ordering and replacing the seal. I would inspect them before I ordered anything. If he is hell bent on sending them out, Al Marcucci is the best in the business, but he's on the other side of the country. http://www.powerprofiles.com/profile/00005148787683/SAVAGE+MAGNETO+SERVICE-HAYWARD-CA Another option might be to try and find a local "Grey beard" A&P (over 50) as many of them will be able to strip and rebuild a bendix mag in their sleep. There's a guy at Royal Aircraft at KHGR named Tom that would possible do this for you.

It's likely a "bad idea" to be there because of engine/prop harmonics at that RPM and power level. Does it feel like it's shaking? I'd not over think it, the engine is not going to come off during a few minutes of pattern work, however, I'd not run it there for extended periods. YMMV... I have a different "avoid continuos" on my engine/prop combo and I occasionally venture into it while in the pattern, but never "continuously"...

I took these pics when I pulled the engine last december, they were not specifically of the Oil filter, but I hope they help. What is it that you are having trouble with?

The difference is minuscule in the real world, but the 15.1 is correct for your engine, as well as jetdriven's, as well as any other angle valve Lyc IO360 with an 8.7 to 1 compression ratio. The multiplier used is based on compression ratio. A great many of currently normally aspirated AC engines have compression ratios of 8.5 to 1 for which the multiplier is 14.9; That number has been repeated so many times that pilots use it without really understanding why. Higher compression engines are more thermally efficient, that is why the multiplier goes up. You will find that the Turbos have low compression engines (usually 7.3 or 7.5) to protect against detonation. This is why they must be boosted well past 29.9inches of MP to match the power of their naturally aspirated counterparts SL max rated power. It is also why the LOP multipliers for those engines are lower (13.5 and 13.7 respectively). Don't sweat the multiplier, just use 15 it will be within 2%. Which is close enough given that it's a quick and dirty method that fails to account for friction losses (maybe another 2%). Focus on the general stuff, questions regarding the minutia of combustion science will come up as you learn more... It will take a while to totally grasp all of the things happening in your engine, but only a short time to learn what you need!

I did not read that in the thread, I saw something about long bodies not slipping well, but I have my doubts. Can someone confirm if this is true???

If you really want to to see it come down, slow to 60-65MPH, Idle power and maintain speed with pitch.... If I get a request for a short approach, I will use a slightly nose high cross control on downwind if I need to slow down as well as a steeper than normal turn from base to downwind in order to eat up energy. There are many different types of things to do to slow down Mooneys, depending on if you're solo or with passengers. At the end of the day, those of us who believe that "shock cooling" is a myth have it a bit easier... Practicing power off, 180 degree constant turn to landing patterns from abeam the numbers helps proficiency. However, gusting headwinds will surprise you...

I doubt that LOP/ROP makes a huge difference in attaining TBO if both are done properly. Heat is the enemy of engine life and it can be controlled either way. I will say that our oil stays much cleaner LOP.

Yes, in a word. But to understand requires a bit more study. LOP uses air in addition to what's used for combustion to manage the combustion event. ROP uses fuel in addition to what's used for combustion to manage the combustion event. With either method, power decrease with altitude. This means that as you climb, the engine will require less surplus fuel (if ROP) or less surplus air (if LOP) for cooling. Said simply, as you climb you don't need to be as far LOP or ROP (depending on what your using) to maintain cool CHTs. IIRC the lowest "Brake Specific Fuel Consumption" (BSFC) occurs at around 45 LOP. But the difference in BSFC between peak and 45 LOP is not huge. BSFC simply means the most hp for a given amount of fuel. In a normally aspirated AC it is impractical to fly at 45 LOP at altitude because the power loss at altitude; it's also unnecessary from a cooling standpoint . I run about 5-10LOP at altitude and 45-55 LOP if I'm running down the coast at 250ft msl. To put a finer point on what Dave said calculating power when LOP is a function of fuel flow. This is because when LOP, all of the fuel running through the engine is being burned to produce power as opposed to ROP, wherein some of the fuel is not burned. Nit picking just a bit, but the actual LOP multiple for 200hp Lyc is about 15.1 X FF = HP. The 14.9 number is for 8.5 to 1 compression ratio engines; 200HP Lycs are 8.7 to 1 C/R. All of the above may feel like drinking from a fire hose. When I said you needed to read the articles and then read them again (3rd time would not hurt), I was not trying to be snarky. There are multiple concepts at play. It is easier to understand them individually and then bring them together. Deakin does a great job of breaking it down. Whether you run ROP or LOP, the articles will give you a great deal of info about what is happening inside your engine. Good luck! but when higher, you will be developing less power and will not need to be as

1) My Mooney POH recommends 100ROP or peak in cruise, it makes no recommendation to run 50 or 75 ROP. 2) Both Lyc and Cont are both horizontally opposed, fixed timing, air-cooled engines...in terms of combustion theory, they are the same... The fact that the author operates a Beech and uses Conti as an example is anecdotal... 3) Every question you've asked in this thread is answered in the articles that you've "already read". Perhaps you should read them again...and then maybe again. 4) If you're looking for a power setting cookbook, than keep using the recipes in your POH... 5) If you're concerned about an GAMI/APS conspiracy, your hottest cylinder must be in on the conspiracy by "conspiring" to run 20df... Lastly, I have never taken nor given APS or GAMI a penny, but that "group of people" have been rather generous with the material they've assembled. Moreover, they freely admit that almost everything that they are advocating was SOP for Pratt & Witney before the first Mooney or Bonanza rolled off the line. All they've done is put a finer point on it and disseminate the info. You've been led to water (or kool-aid as some believe), whether you drink or not is up to you... Either way, your little Lyc will likely be OK...for a while...Good luck!