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I am going to do my first oil change. Can anyone please tell me what diameter of hose to take and connect to the oil quick drain? I live 1 hour from my plane and I would like to get it right before i head on down there. Also is it a simple matter of connecting the hose and pushing the quick drain up to let the oil flow? Thanks in advance

I do not use T/O flaps for the same reasons jlunseth mentions above - large pitch changes and the aircraft leaves the ground better without them (less flat attitude - so seems less like its jumping off the ground). I am sure different model years behave differently though given the responses above.

carusoam - i normally cruise at high altitudes when I am going somewhere. That 3000 feet experiment was a one off thing - i was limited by ceilings and cloud chasing around my airport I dont have the JPI set for LOP though - I do know how to set it - but I find it very annoying to use the JPI to lean the mixture. It just seems to take forever - and altho i have my eyes out while turning the mixture knob during the leanFind process - I really doubt whether I am actually "seeing" anything. My attention seems to be elsewhere Plus the JPI manual lists many different reason you can find false peaks etc etc - so I am never quite sure if I have done the process right :| Hence the big pull - it did give me a scare the first time I did it tho - did rather more than a big pull and was sure it was gonna quit Have learned better since then jetdriven: your numbers sorta agree with me - I think i end up seeing numbers around 8.4-8.5 gph at WOT, 7.5k feet ...

Oh one more question - is there a red-line for peak EGT? I saw 1500 in the flight i mention above at 3000 feet - and thought that was a pretty darn high number compared to what i usually see - so I took immediate action

thanks jetdrive - yeah my engine is drinking oil at about 1 quart every 5 hours or so - hoping it comes down with LOP - altho like you said I am not sure of the correlation

i got back to check on this thread a bit later - but here is what I got in summary: Lean by EGT - try 10 LOP and see if it CHTs are in line - if not in line, lean more to keep CHTs in line. So how is that not leaning with CHT in mind? You are going to keep varying your degree of "LOP-ness" until CHTs are in-line. By starting with 10 LOP you are trying to get the most power out with the best fuel consumption and with CHTs in limit. The way I see it now is that the red knob is just being used as a power knob because I am running WOT. Basically control mixture to control power - and control CHT using power/mixture. Also can someone explain to me what EGT really means? The hotter the EGT the more complete the combustion process is? Always confused by this.. I tried LOP at 18 MP at 3000 feet - my EGT went to 1500 or so ! But up at 7k or above i barely ever see 1450 or so. Anyway I am now a big fan of the GAMI big pull in terms of simplicity of in-flight operations especially for the mooney. By getting the engine to go rough, I am pretty much starting leanest first - checking if CHTs and ground speed are good enough and then enriching until CHTs are in-line (i try 360 F because of a chart of metal characteristics that shadrach posted) and there is a good tradeoff of speed and fuel consumption etc etc. Less fiddling with the JPI and less head-down time too ! Need to do more experiments with periodic oil inspections and borescope inspections. My engine has 1800 hours on it - so I dont mind experimenting on it a bit now

thanks for the responses - what about if i want to maintain full throttle at say 4500. Seems like I lean more until CHTs are acceptable and I can find out power from 15 times fuel flow as you say. Its probably going to be less than 75% if I want CHTs around 360 I think - I'll have to try it. But there is nothing stopping me from having 75 or greater % power as long as CHTs are okay... I like this simple way of managing the engine rather than finding peak - I feel like I am staring at the JPI a lot more then - which makes me nervous - instead of looking out.

So I read a bunch about LOP operations and tried it yesterday - I was impressed with the fuel economy and speed. I have a few questions about LOP operation though: 1) To get into LOP mode at cruise, I did the GAMI big mixture pull. I went to where the engine was rough and then enriched it where the engine was smooth, hottest CHT was 340 - enriched mix to get hottest CHT to 360, EGTs were around 1380-1420 and fuel flow was at 8.5 gph - full throttle 7500 feet, 2500 rpm. So my question is do I really need to find the peak to see how far lean I am? I think I should be fine as long as CHTs are within safety limits (discovered from the forum here that 380 is a good number). I know at that height and the power setting there is no "red-box" - but I was wondering about flying down low at full throttle at power settings where there *IS* a red box of mixture settings. 2) As I was climbing I wanted to maintain the same EGT as takeoff. I checked the EGT at 1000 AGL and it was I think 1200 or so. Then I wanted to pull the mixture to maintain that EGT but all the way up to 7500 the EGT barely decreased much. I had to make maybe 1 tweak to get it back to 1200 on the climb (CHTs around 340). I think it had dropped to 1100. That tweak barely made any difference to fuel flow. I guess if I am climbing higher I would tweak more - but I am wondering if others see the same thing. 3) Once I had the engine settings all setup - half way into my 1.5 hour trip - I noticed that the hottest CHT had crept up from 360 to 370. So I leaned it a bit more and got it back - but wondering why that happened? Warmer air ? I was flying south Thanks

I am thinking of replacing the instrument air filter in my 1987 201-LM - just to see if that does the trick of fixing the slightly weird behaviors of my gyros. The aircraft hasnt had an annual under me (got it new this January) and its likely the filter wasnt replaced last annual. My question is where is the filter - behind the panel or in the engine compartment. Its probably behind the panel - in which case it will be a real pain to take out and inspect. Anyone know? thanks in advance

I was going to take out the attitude indicator from the plane in order to send it for overhaul. But in my 1987 M20J - after I took the glareshield out, there was barely any space behind the AI unit to unhook the 3 connections - 1 electrical and 2 rubber hoses. The sloping windshield causes problems. Do you take the 6-pack panel out and then unhook the AI or am I missing something? thx in advance.

wow - very nice - i love the rounded window look - guessing thats a mod. Some day I hope to do that when its time to put a fresh coat of paint on the plane.

a bit off-topic - but in the upgrade notes at the apple store for foreflight 4.1- it mentioned that they'll have more goodies in the next version including in-flight weather. Ofcourse its nothing definite - because I couldnt see an announcement to that effect on their website.

Quote: smccray I'll have one coming out of an '87 M20J here in 60-90 days. Was just overhauled about a month ago by the prior owner. HSI and remote gyro were overhauled at the same time...

Quote: lenblock Conrad at the Radio Shop, Worcester, MA KORH.

okay really sorry - I am a complete newbie at this. I thought I had a KI-256 - but when I went through the paperwork last night - its really a Bendix KG-258 - grr - feel stupid

Anyone have any good experiences with avionics shops in the North East ? Anywhere in between Maine to North Carolina. I am in Massachusetts. Also does anyone know if there are shops that will let the owner work on avionics under supervision of an AP/IA? I know my mechanic is willing to let others work on their planes under his supervision - but he doesnt do avionics. Thanks

interesting - ebay had a bunch of AIs KI-256 that were sold for 750-1000 $ which is much less than overhauling the thing. In a dilemma :-| anyone willing to sell a known good KI-256 after their glass upgrade or know someone who might be willing to sell one?

Quote: jetdriven Vacuum is a separate source but its a lot of weight etc for one gauge. They make electric AI's with built-in battery backup, but those are not cheap. I think that would be the best solution.

Quote: allsmiles Are you sure about this? I don't think you are correct. You better check your sources. It is not just a software upgrade. It involves hardware as well.

I have a backup electrical AI - does that work or does it have to be vacuum based since the Aspen is electrical? I would like to shed weight and headache as much as possible - so getting rid of that pesky vacuum pump will be a god send

thanks for the tip KSMooniac - I think my AI is about to go - called up Bob and got a very decent quote. However, I am wondering if its just economically more sensible to just replace it with the cheapest aspen EFD1000. I can probably sell the AI as is and the perfectly functioning DG to offset the cost of the Aspen EFD1000. Moreover the EFD1000 is upgradeable to the Pro using just a software upgrade - which is very nice. Anyone has any idea how much the King DG and the defunct King AI will fetch on the used market?

testwest - thanks for the info wondering how long it usually takes a company like emgair to produce an STC for Mooneys and get their product certified. I am new to the aircraft ownership and parts buying scene.

what happened to the unison lasar system?

Quote: N6719N Water depends on the temperature... probably not my first choice. Trees, not if I can avoid it. Here in east Texas, there are lots of areas that would probably dictate a tree landing. I would try really hard to do anything other than landing in the tops of 120 foot pine trees. It could be a long ride down! I know a guy that has been a bush pilot in Alaska forever, and he says when you lose power over the mountains, the key to survival is to land the aircraft going directly up the slope on the side of the mountain. If you do it right, according to him, you can almost stop the forward motion of the plane right before contact with the ground. He says all the bush pilots up there know this. And he has done it several times. Hope I never have to find out, especially in my Mooney!

depends on so many factors - the only thing i can say is I would try landing on land first - including land with young/small trees and bushes as long as I have a line of sight through them You apparently need 9 feet of deceleration space to survive a crash - assuming your seatbelts work that is. landing on water depends on temperature of water - wave conditions - number of passenger (4 passengers are a potential for disaster if you land inverted with a cabin flooding quickly) and have to exit all 4 of them through a single door. Moreover you then realize someone doesnt know how to swim as well as they had thought (panic does things to people). In addition in cape cod, massachusetts we have great white sharks visiting I would think lightly wooded or bushy terrain is preferable to water as long as you can fly it all the way close to the ground (within 5 feet) without hitting a tree essentially - then let the ground and trees decelerate you (shear off wings etc) - need a line of sight through trees so that you dont have a head-on collision with a tree. As for thickly wooded tall tree forests - i would land in water before i land in those - just because its very likely that if I try to fly the plane all the way down - my wings are going to get sheared off while I am still 100 feet in the air because of these tall trees - and thats a recipe for certain death - no one can survive a 100 foot fall.