bd32322

Parker - in a separate thread you had mentioned you got rid of fine wire spark plugs to get it to run LOP in your encore.. Did you mean you got rid of the massives by any chance? I thought the fine wires are better suited for LOP operations for some reason ..

Most 252s will have the dual alternator I think, before they even install TKS. Rockets will have a large capacity extra battery. Those are the two I am looking at upgrading to for now. Same with the Bravo too I think. I dont see much value in the heated stall warning. And the pitot is heated anyway. What happens to fuel vents - are they heated in the 252/231/Bravo/Rocket or are they designed so that they do not ice up and block fuel flow?

I was searching the forum for the difference between FIKI and non-FIKI TKS installations. Its pretty clear that the FIKI installation has dual pumps. However, its not o clear whether the panels are the same. I see some posts mentioning that the FIKI panels have more holes per sq. inch but some others mentioning that they both should be the same. So are the panels the same? Also is there supposed to be a flow rate difference with 2 pums versus 1 in the non-FIKI installation? Thanks

You had no issues inspecting cylinder internals with the provided attachments? Just collecting data ...

Good idea! I'll let you guys know after i do some troubleshooting this week.

The problem with some borescopes is that their 90 degree attachments dont work, thus apparently making them useless for viewing valves and such. I cant view the beechtalk site, waiting for login permissions from their admin or maybe Byron will post the details before then.

Do any of you use a borescope to look inside cylinders? I want one in the 200$ or so range. I was looking at the voscope or snap-on ones - any one has a PIREP on either of the brands? Thanks

hmm - I'd rather put that in - since the normal mooney door seal was 130 something as quoted by my IA.

Wow since you guys are mentioning avblend, i went and looked it up. $20 for a 12 oz can which is supposed to go in duing one oil change ! Wow !! The FAQ reads like a late night infomercial on home shopping network, micro-molecules and all. Although that will be doing HSN a disservice. Anyway i dont use camguard and fly regularly - poll would not accept my response. I have been using all sorts of oil, aeroshell 100w, aeroshelll 15w-50, phillips xc 20w50, exon elite 20w50. I think i'll stick with the exxon elite - i think some publication, prolly avweb found the least amount of rusting with this oil.

How much does the electrical door seal and the manual door seal cost?

interesting and thanks! - I'll try it out this weekend. What would I do without mooneyspace

for a while i was afriad TFRs will be come status symbols for the govt officials - your importance is judged by the size of your TFR over your house

Also I never understood the reason for the vice presidential residence TFR - which is about 1500 AGL - whats the point of that? I came close to violating it so many times - it happens to sit squarely in between an enroute VOR (MXE) and the wilmington airport (ILG) - so its natural to follow the VOR outbound and violate the airspace. A supposed terrorist could dive through 1500 feet in about a few seconds.. (I am sure next time I go there - this TFR will be up to 18k feet and 30 miles) Since I go to Wilmington often - I am seriously thinking of voting against him - just to get rid of the pesky TFR - lol

On a recent check my two VOR course indicators/selectors were off by 10 degrees in flight when tuned to the same VOR. Anybody had a similar situation and what did you do to diagnose the problem? First i am going to check with a VOT to find out which one is faulty, then I am not sure...

Just to put some times down, the latest jetA engine for the cessna was supposed to be ready from Renault/SMA in 1998. Instead it arrived in 2012 due to various reasons (technical and otherwise). Engine development seems to happen at a glacial pace. Although since there is 1 flying now, the others from continental may be quick to come?

I have never lubed the slip joints myself, but am planning to at every oil change. My guess is what i'll find is that its impossible to push the anti-seize into the joints since its a lot thicker than a liquid penetrant.. So prolly will end up with mouse milk ...

Thanks very much!

http://www.bostik-us.com/our-brands/never-seez Found this high temp anti-seize compound for lubricating exhaust systems. Looks like the pure nickel product is the correct one, some of the others have copper which can set off dissimilar metal reaction/corrosion. Being anti-seize instead of penetrant oil, i am xpecting it to stay on the joint longer. Anyone tried it?

I remember something about a gear safety system, where it wont retract until you reach a certain speed and something similar when about to put the gear down. I would familiarize myself with that system.

Lol i was looking for my model m20j and the only place its visible is behind a piaggio where only the tail is visible

Thanks, that is a great idea. If there is a leak, the higher ambient pressure should force more air to the leaking cylinder than the others. So at low alt, the leaky cylinder 2 should really run rough because it will be extra extra lean. Anyway, the times at which the different cylinders will peak will change.

Thanks for the great advice. I am having some trouble running LOP smoothly because cylinder 2 is running extra lean. I switched the injector with the richest one and it made no difference. So now it looks like i need to do what you mentioned here, i.e., check for intake leaks at the cylinder interface at my next oil change.

good point about the tie wraps! But how do you check for leaks in the induction system apart from large and obvious leaks? Is there some trick or some device to be used?

Any idea why it cracked? Improper routing of the hose or just age? And what would you check - whether they are brittle or not?