jetdriven

Quote: N4352H

Yes i think so. Experimentals do not conform to a type certificate. They are not designed with the stall speeds, spin-resistant behavior, or even the same G-loading categories as production airplanes. They may have converted automobile engines, and auto parts such as fuel pumps, etc. In fact, if it can fly, you can get an experimental airworthiness for it. So, unless you can correlate it woth some real data, you are just posing opinion as fact. I think the earth is flat. I think that I drive better after 3 beers. I think I think I think.

Even according to the FAA, unlicensed persons working on aircraft under supervision of an appropriately rated mechanic is legal. Airlines do this too. This is different than someone making a mod to an experimental. Our shop does conditionals on those too. Quote: N4352H And here I was, fat dumb and happy, thinking that this correlation has more to do with "Amateur Built" than with owner maintenance. [said the happy owner who does as much maintenance as the regulations permit and his

If you are losing oil the only possible reason is the crank o-ring seal in the prop hub. Other than that and 6 captive bolts there is nothing in there. After you have seen it, it's not a big deal. Timing the mag to me was a big deal. Quote: Hank What concerned me most was the post-maintenance test flight. If anything under the spinner wasn't right, would I know what to do? Appropriate action would, of course, be to land immediately, but the exact course of how to do that would be determined by what had gone wrong, and I'm not knowledgeable enough to diagnose the problem by its symptoms. "Hey, it's shaking really bad, and I can't see for all the oil on the windshield" is not the only possible failure mode. "Throttle to idle, pitch & trim for 90 MPH, aim for the asphalt" would work, depending on how badly it was shaking and how well I can see. We got trees at both ends of our [short] piece of pavement . . . P.S.--Maybe he meant he "saved" three billable hours from the A&P, reducing the bill by $240 in exchange for his own days' work?

I trail cowl flaps above 100 mph and use the excess cht reserve to lean to a egt that will give me a 330-340 cht in climb. Like 50-100 leaner. Only above 3000 density altitude though. Take a look at the cowl flaps in a j full open during a run up. They buffet a lot and this over stresses the fiberglass cowling at the hinges. I think trailing them relieves this stress. Closing the cowl flaps is going to make it get hot, ours will. I tried a climb at 8000 to 10000 with cowl flaps closed it went from 360 to 380 in about one minute.

Three hours! !!! Woohoo I saved 240 bucks! Quote: Becca He says that. Ask him how long it took for him to safety wire the prop. Just ask. Our mechanic (the A&P/IA that supervises this work) got a good laugh at the level of effort required for him to do it right.

We did the right thing and fired the mechanic. Just as mike busch would have advised us to do, seeing as how we are responsible for airworthiness and he was not taking direction. We have probably saved enough to buy some new toys, but we are happy where we are at right now. Quote: N4352H Well, "Not like the first mechanic who forgot many things". After saving so much on owner conducted maintenance, there should be plenty left in the kiddy for taking the Mike Busch course to better manage your mechanic.

Hank, having just r&r'd our prop I can say a c/s prop is no big deal. Just use a new o-ring on install. Otherwise it's like changing a wheel on a Chevy. The biggest hassle was safety wiring the prop bolts. Find a cool a& p and get with it . It helps with confidence in your machine.

Any proof of this owner performed maintenance being less safe? I do our maintenance under supervision of an IA and so far everything is fixed once. Not like the first mechanic who forgot many things.

Perhaps if you fly that bravo slower you can take less fuel for the trip? Also if my m20j weighed 30 lbs less than the licensed weight I would draw up new weight and balance paperwork.

Excellent point both. Busch doesn't address this much but Deakin does. You can exceed a safe ICP at a low altitude on a cold day yet still have a 330 CHT. Deakin explained this on one of his pelicans perch articles. I limit fuel flow to 10.0 gph while LOP to avoid running more than 75% power in cruise. Quote: Shadrach You should be able to dial in your FF instrument to get nearly exact readings, so keep working towards that. 2 gallons out of 100 is fairly significant IMO, and I doubt you sumped anywhere near that much, even with water in the tank unless you had a ton.

I had some sort of a mooney pass me in a Cessna 402 once. I was flying it at "top of the green" power setting burning 33 GPH. Somewhere around 175-180 knots.

I have leaned carb engines on the ground and I always tried to keep the engine from 1000-1200 rpm. It always felt Like it had an effect there, yes, but not at 800 rpm idle.

Shock heating your engine to clean the plugs off isn't so good for it either. Leaning during taxi prevents the need for that. We have only had to do it once in 100 hours, I was checking someone out and he let it idle at 800 rpm a couple minutes.

I have lots of stuff. Let me know when you find a place for it. Engine, airframe, avionics, etc.

I would keep it at least 10-20 LOP at 75% power. More at a higher setting. I treat 10.0 GPH as a LOP fuel flow limit. A sure sign of detonation is rapidly rising CHT, and a severe detonation event the CHT can climb 3 degrees a second. By the time you notice, its over. I wouldnt want to tempt fate with my knowledge level in that area yet. I havent been there. Your FF is accurate to 2%. Thats all ours is accurate to. A 0.2 GPH variance is 3 HP, I wouldnt worry too much. You can change the K-factor on some units to really super dial in the FF.

nvm

Climb: full throttle, prop 2700 RPM, mixture at target (currently 1250) cowl flaps in trail. Level off at 2000', cowl flaps closed first or 200' early, let the speed build to 145-150 KIAS. Throttle stays full, prop to 2500, big mixture pull to 9.5 GPH (fast), then bump it up to 9.7 or 10.0 GPH. Whatever you want from 7.5-10.0. Let it stabilize. Monitor CHT. If you want to loiter, set MP to 23" , prop to 2200 and you can lean into the 5.0 to 5.5 GPH range. If you are still running 330 CHT with a 10.0 FF, thats 75% power, and I havent done much exploring in that area yet. I do treat >75% power with a little more respect and try to limit CHT to 330-340 or so. Quote: 201er Can you elaborate your workflow starting with full climb power level off at 2,000ft and 5C OAT? In what order are you moving things and what are you basing your settings on? I've just been following the classic work flow of throttle, prop, mixture. But when you have surplus CHT buffer to play with when cowl flaps are already closed, makes you wonder how to make it work for you?

thats how you do it. Sometimes I limit MP to 28" if the engine is nearing 90-100 LOP and it begins to run rough. Richening it gives more HP, which is what you dont need while slowing down near the pattern to land. It feels like cheating though.

Try opening the MP up to 27-28" to give it enough air to be LOP or to have enough excess air to cool. (2" more MP than a ROP book power setting) Then set FF to 10.0 GPH. I jusrt did this 2 days ago. I tried something new. Situation was 1200', 58 degrees F OAT, 27" MP, LOP, 9.7 GPH, 2500 RPM. CHT creeping up to 375. I opened the throttle up to 29", of course FF went up some too. I leaned it back to the same 9.7 GPH. everything is the same but now more MP. The CHT came down 10 degrees.

dp

Moody Aero graphics is pretty good too. I have ordered from them once before.

Thats where you tell him you have it pulled back to 23 square.

on the exact same engine no less.

Scott, couldnt hold out for the G2?