Beard

I recently received a membership renewal from MAPA. It says in bold "Back Under New Owner". I called them yesterday and the phone did not ring, then called again today day and got a generic answering machine message. Can anyone pipe in and tell me if it is worthwhile joining MAPA again? Thank you

I have the exact same set up as you in my 84 J. Same battery and Batteryminder. I have pigtail from the battery that goes in to the luggage compartment that I plug my Batteryminder into. I have had no problems at all. As one commenter wrote, I sometimes wonder if I got caught up in getting the Batteryminder craze and would have been just as well served by doing nothing. I try to fly every week so the battery should not go flat..

I have a 1984 J and took a picture of this same spot on my. You can see that it has an eyeball vent in that spot.

I have a 1984 J. I need to replace the pilot's seat rails as there are some seat positions that cause the seat to move. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge with this please? Specific questions are 1) Can I just change the only pilot's right hand side rail as that is the one that is worn? 2) Is it better to use sold rivets or Cherry Max. LASAR told me they recommend solid because the Cherry will eventually corrode, but when looking under the belly it appears that Cherry Max would be far less work. Any tips or recommendations please?

I found the ones post earlier this month. They are older than the 1998 you are looking for. But I have put the links below. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1339371/Mooney-M20j.html https://www.nqac.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/M20J-POH.pdf

I think someone posted a link within the last month for an M20J POH. Not sure what year it was for. Maybe you could search for it.

I ran a cable from the battery into the baggage compartment on my J. I then open the baggage door when the plane is in it hangar and hook it up to the float charger. I have a cap that goes on the end of the cable when not charging so it does not ground out.

I carry the "Plug & Jump Universal" devise that can be purchased from Aircraft Spruce. I had to use it once and had no problem finding someone with jumper cables in their truck. After the plane started they simply unplugged the devise and passed it to me through the vent window. Below is the link to the devise at Aircraft Spruce and a picture. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/plugnjump.php?clickkey=13070

I have a PDF file for a 1979 J. If nobody else offers you a newer one please give me your address and I will put it on a thumb drive and mail to you. I think the file is too large to email.

I am not sure if you want to send your cylinder to Canada, but I have two of my IO-360 cylinders in a place in the province of Quebec right now called Aero-Atelier. 1-819-538-6768. Not living in Quebec myself, I was reluctant to send them there, but their customer service has been top notch so far. Within a week of them receiving them they started to work on them. I cannot report how it finished as they only started the work this week. I was quoted $1,785 Canadian dollars per cylinder, which is $1,285 USD. Their quote included everything needed. Canadians throughout the country are starting to send engines and cylinders to Aero-Atelier. I readily send work to the US, so there is no reason that it cannot come the other way too.

Not answering your question directly, as it has been answered that the suffix simply means if it has been overhauled, but I would like to offer this. BAS Parts Sales has what you need on eBay. I have dealt with them before and they are reputable and stand behind their items sold and will refund money if it does not work. The one they have for sale is traceable. Some people do not want us install used parts, particularly electronics, but it is always an option in a pinch. You can always phone them and make an offer outside of eBay. I am not sure if you mentioned about getting yours overhauled on your own. Good luck.

Here is a picture of my 1984 J, and it too has the high back seats without head rests.

It may have to do with the year of the J. I have a 1984 J and have been told that this is the first year of the single belly pan, articulating front seats and reclining back seats.

I have a 1984 M20J with the Turbo Bullet conversion. The turbo was installed on the Lycoming IO-360.Apparently, due to some accidents it was determined that the turbo was producing more than 200 horsepower and breaking the crankshaft, so an AD was issued that placarded it down to 33" of MP. I can still get 38.5" if I go WOT, but I keep it consistently at 33" or below. The parts are still available for it and about a year ago I purchased a rebuilt Rayjay turbo and a new release valve. The exhaust also had a crack once that was easily welded. So, while the STC conversion started as a full turbo, it has be reduced on paper to a turbonormalizer, even though I can still get the full boost at WOT.

When I first bought my 84 M20J and was trying to retract the gear in a gear swing, my mechancI had someone blow in the pitot tube to simulate airspeed. Then we discovered the purpose of the red button.

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a travel board for an M20J?

Just testing this forum. Sorry for the intrusion.

I have a 1984 J model with a stock temp gauge. As the stock temp gauge does not have a detailed calibration, and I understand that it is not linear, has anyone out there with the stock gauge somehow discovered what position is 180F? If so could you please post a picture so I too can mark 180F on mine with a grease pencil.

Embarrassingly I am not sure what CR means. I always lean for ROP, not LOP. I find that the for the best power when I lean ROP I get the FF called for in the Turbo Bullet specs. Examples are: 65% @ 11.8 GPH & 75% @ 12.9%.

Good to see that someone has something good to say about the Turbo Bullet. I have a 1984 J with this TB installed. I religiously keep below 33” so do not worry about stressing the engine. I just don’t feel like it performs as well as a stock M20J. I did some tests with a 1990 M20J and it out climbed me and was significantly quicker in cruise. My climb on a warm day can be 600 fpm at 1000 agl. At higher altitudes it performs much better. My engine has about 1750 hours since new. When the TB was installed it was not overhauled, just the top end done. When the rebuild time comes I am contemplating going back to original. As there are so many negative comments about the TB on the internet it will be this that I have to deal with if I ever resell my Mooney. The paranoia about the TB may be unfounded, but perception is reality when I will be talking to a potential buyer. Others on Mooney Space have told me that my lack of performance could be specific to my plane and I intend to have it looked at this summer. I too have all the original STC documentation and drawings for the Turbo Bullet.

I do not think the service ceiling of my TB 201 has changed. I suppose I should know, but I don't.

I believe it it is still the 200 HP. The bonus is keeping max HP at altitude. Not entirely sure.

I own a 1984 J with the Turbo Bullet conversion. It still gives 38" of boost, but is placarded down to 33". I must admit that in the 6 years that I have owned it I have used the 38" for a very short period and it has performed quite well, good speed. However, when flying it at 33" in the lower altitudes, up to 7,000 ft, I am not as fast as a non turbo J. I have done a few comparisons with other stock 201s and they have left me in their dust. Maybe my engine is putting out less horse power that it should be at its close to 1800 hours, but I am not pleased with it performance. When climbing after take off I am at best getting 600 - 700 FPM on a warm day near sea level at 75 kts. It does climb well at higher altitudes when in cruise. I don't fly at higher altitudes so cannot report on them. When my conversion was originally done it was for a true turbo so it had low compression pistons installed. It is very clear to me that my 201 with it's low compression pistons and max allowable boost of 33" makes it slower than if it was left stock. I am starting to gather info on reverting it back to non turbo when it is time to rebuild the engine. I am not at all pleased with my Turbo Bullet conversion and wish I had not bought it. I have been told that rebuilding the turbo would not be a difficult thing nor extremely expensive. Other than only focussing on reliablity and cost of repairs, I would like to suugest that you fly this aircraft you are lookin at getting a share in and experience the climb out and top speed. Compare this to stock 201s. If it performs like mine it may be an eye opener for you. Good luck.

I will be replacing the oil temp gauge on my 1984 M20J and have a mechanic sign off on it. I was hoping someone could let me know a few specifics. Does the hole cluster/strip of instruments have to be removed or can just the oil temp gauge be removed by itself? Are there any tricks to it? Any other suggestions in removing the glare shield and oil temp gauge. Thank you.

Thank you everyone for your input. I know the day will be coming when I must tackle this question and want to be prepared.