takair

The fixed step has a different mounting configuration. The retractable step is more substantial. I suspect that a fairing would not do much. It has quite a bit of parasite drag and also induces drag because it puts the airplane out of trim. It would be up to your mechanic and IA to make a determination on a fairing.

If you have questions about the electric conversion let me know. Over 400 kits sold to date. We have an occasional failure, but in many cases we trace it back to an alignment issue with the cable and step, and we have instructions on how to rectify that. Mooneys being hand built, there are small variations in each.

I know the mags have been on and off and thus timed. I think your engine timing is 22+/-1. Your timing can be in limits, but have a 2degree split and get different mag drops. If the timing is a little out of tolerance it becomes more significant. Using the timing cone is not the most precise thing. I know it’s sometimes hard to ask the mechanic these questions, but perhaps ask him what the mags are timed at…..or suggest retiming them both to 22 or 21? It might be that the left mag is clocked in such a way that it prefers more advanced and is causing these issues. Just seems consistent with timing….

I have come to the opinion that if you service the prop every annual, it eventually gets full (12 years or less if over serviced) and further grease needs a way out. Seems to coincide with recommended OH time. So, full hub….some migrates out the seal. The risk of not servicing is corrosion in the hub and/or dried grease. So, it’s possible you simply have a slightly over serviced hub. The grease breaks down and the oil seeps out. As Yetti said, Arroshell grease got worse over time and is no longer the preferred grease after overhaul.

What type of tach do you have….where is it reading from? Some electronic tachs read from each mag vs a common point like a gear. If you have pickup on each mag, perhaps try to swap them to see if problem follows.

Fred…will he also check the previously mentioned screens…total 3? They may be holding junk that just needs to work its way past the screens to cause more problems. It is amazing how the junk gets by and then causes problems, but I have had it happen….in fact…shortly after getting bladders installed….

As Eric said, check all screens and filters. There is the gascolator, electric pump filter, and servo screen. If there has been a persistent water problem, it can damage the servo and cause some pretty serious issues. Looking at that screen can give a good indication of health. Do you have engine analyzer with recording capability? What was fuel flow and pressure? Did you note ChT or EgT show anything like a single cylinder going off line? This is most typical of clogged injector. All cylinders tends to be servo or spider and are obviously more hazardous. Hope you can find something on ground…

CHT seems high for your model. I’m curious where your oil cooler is? The flow pattern with cylinders vs oil are different depending on configuration. As other sugggested, you might not be broken in. What is your oil burn rate? Any pictures of the engine installation you can share?

I don’t think I’ve seen the disc stop block oriented forward like that on the nose gear before. It’s the block right under the index pointer. Is that correct for your model? Edit: Just confirmed. On nose gear that block should face aft to provide better support for the shock disc. On the mains they face forward. As I recall, these are LASAR mods.

What 47U suggested. See if the inside of the flywheel has a slime of oil in there. I had this happen after overhaul, in my situation it would occur every 30 hours…..it takes that long to build up enough to splatter.

I think @Alan Fox had one a while back?

Some things to consider: Rubber mounts have hardened or sagging. This would change the position of the engine especially when changing power. Might be causing some slight interference. Exhaust hangers broken. Baffles. Especially with dog house, I’ve had cracked baffles drive me crazy with some noise I could not pin down. Would change depending on flight dynamics. Worse is a broken baffle which once scared me into diverting. It was minor but made an awful noise, like the engine was coming apart.

It likely depends on vintage too. My old E has a much higher gear speed than flap speed, so it is harder to get to flap speed without putting the gear down.

You should be able to. There is an add on STC that should still be available from Brittain. Not sure of videos, but @Kevin Westbrookshould be able to help. I built my system one piece at a time over many years. Now it is a great autopilot. It takes a little tinkering to get them set up, but once they are, they are a great autopilot,

Oof, not like that. Mine looked fine but would not compress. Think it was because I would wash the plane and the tube would fill with water.