takair

Sounds like LASAR will be their parts distributor?

There are 4 in this image. The new-old stock Britain’s still have the sticker and you can see they cut off the inlet fitting. That’s all that’s different.

Those look like the air filters for the Brittain system. Brittain sourced them from Fram. Given Brittain does not sell them anymore, you too can source them from Fram…..

Regarding log book, it is possible that there was nothing on missing pages or it was an error. I have seen logs….have some for one of my own plane, where pages are crossed out because they were intended for the engine log and were entered in error. I can imagine e a situation where they tore out the error not thinking it would look bad. As someone suggested, what is on the adjacent pages? Is there a logical gap in history. I won’t speak to the legal, but these threads usually trend bad for the poster….just a consideration early in the thread.

To follow up on my previous post, flew this evening and realized I grab the adjustment bar on the inboard corner, not between my legs…

It’s strange, been flying these planes for over 25 years and I’m not sure I could tell you exactly how I grab the lever normally. I think it may be possible to actuate it from the outboard side of the seat. It likely depends on the year of the plane. Mine has the handle going left to right and is accessible from the outside. I know I’ve helped passengers from my seat, although it’s a stretch.

I suppose one could put a rope on the bar and have it come up between one’s legs. A secondary, and greater issue, would be ability to reach to fuel selector. Some people who can’t reach it add an extension but that too would be between one’s legs. Be sure that is not an issue for you. And not to be stacking on, but I know that the space between seats can get a little tight when manipulating the Johnson bar or trim… just be sure you are able to comfortably do those things.

Mine looks similar. Do you have any upslope at the exit from the case? Not that it is a fix but t might help.

Don’t think I have a picture today, but can you confirm you have the whistle slot hole sitting above the cowl cove exit? That should minimize the effect of any low pressure draw. Does the vent line slant up for the first few inches? Do you have a dribble of oil coming from the vent after flight? If not, the oil may be coming from elsewhere.

I would take a stab at it if I had a plane to try it on or a set of vacuum speed brakes to mock it up on. I suspect that the linear actuators I use will be way to slow. There are faster ones, but they don’t have the torque. The ones that are fast and have the torque get big and heavy.

Where does the oil return line from the separator go now? There seems to be a science to getting it right too. If the routing allows oil to build up it becomes ineffective.

Last post you mentioned just using the vernier next time. Do you otherwise not use it? It is possible the ball is hanging up and not quite locking. The spring force in the governor then has the opportunity to pull it forward, at least one “detent”. Good advice to try that first. How old is the cable?

Sorry. Incomplete response. You are correct regarding ground function when taxing. What I meant is that if sitting on the ground with the engine running, but not moving, if the yoke goes hard over it could be a leak. I’ve knocked off a trim hose and it will also cause a hard over. You can compensate for that with the heading bug, but it will be offset. Kevin is probably right regarding gyro, but still worth leak checks.

Check it on the ground. If it turns then you likely have a leak. Could be the servos, lines or trim lines. Need to start leak checking. Servo would be the first place to start and most likely leak.

What everybody above said. Pucks won’t make any difference. Rigging might. Almost every transition student has issues. Most wait way too long trying to put the gear up and the speed builds. It takes a bunch of takeoffs to get it. Once the speed builds the easiest way is the dip someone mentioned. Just a LIGHT push. I’ve had people try to kill me by pushing too hard and too low. As you push the yoke you raise the gear. Easier said than done, but again requires practice. The biggest issue I see with putting gear down is managing your he momentum so there is just enough to get to the lock, but not so much that it bangs into place. More practice.