takair

Good excuse to fly after washing…although I’m not sure that is bulletproof….but still a good excuse….then spray some oil in it after landing…

I can’t answer why 15473 might be mechanically better. From an operational perspective, I first noticed the issue in starting, I seem to recall my mixture being too rich, but I am not sure that is technically possible given the fuel injection system…but that’s what I recall. If you have an engine monitor with fuel pressure, you will set off the alarm all the time. From a TC perspective, you will be outside the Mooney limits. I had notified Mooney at the time, they didn’t say much. Maybe I’m anal about limits, but it seems that going over the airframe limits is pretty clear cut, even if Lycoming says it is ok,. They don’t set the airframe limits…. If Mooney were still building airframes they might have some leverage with Lycoming or they would possibly do the analysis or testing to broaden the limits.. Vance…I know you know all of the legalities and you know the Mooney factory better than me…..I’m just kind of venting now….lol…old wounds…

Maybe this thread will be helpful.

Vance There is an older thread on the topic. One of the available pumps tends to put out over red line pressure. Lycoming says it’s ok but it is outside Money spec. I’ll see if I can find the thread.

I can tell of the times where “a friend” skipped a checklist or a flow due to distractions. “They” have forgotten gust locks, pitot covers, cones in front of plane, trim, flaps, cowl flaps, and most recently distracted from doing gumps by weather…..gear was down but not locked. Gear warning to the rescue. I think a good flow satisfies a checklist. I think the problem is always distractions. Even with a checklist there are numerous examples of doing the checklist and missing something. Interrupted by a radio call. Rote reflexes that look, but don’t see. Checklists and flows (maybe not all agree on the “flow”) are great safety enhancers. However, what would enhance safety would be a way to ensure there is always time to run them and not miss anything. I have yet to see a completely bulletproof checklist. Luckily most airplanes have some forgiveness built in. Some level of automation helps, but not all automation is bulletproof either. I know we want to believe we will say “unable” when rushed, but sometimes it’s not practical. When our routine is thrown off is when we are most susceptible. If you can sneak a checklist in at that time, it is the perfect time for it, but ironically it is exactly the checklist which is omitted in order to work around the new situation. I realize my response is not entirely helpful except to say to my friend, try not to be in a rush, build in more time for preparation, pre flights and checklists. Maybe we can make up some of the time by flying faster ROP :-). Be safe everybody!!

As I recall, you have to swing the gear with the nose gear doors open or the firewall panel removed to see the proximity of that bearing to the gear when turning. I think the flat gives just that extra amount of clearance to feel good when you see it.

And before digital cameras…lol.

It’s a good forum, we all learn. The manual is not very useful on some of these topics. Rich also caught that the link was backwards. Cliff’s issue is still a little disturbing, especially in light of the recent 310 accident in Boca.

I could have sworn I remember the shaved part as going aft and down to better clear the gear, but I can find no evidence of that at the moment.

If I’m picturing this correctly, one of those heinous (edit….meant Heim, but spell check corrected to what we are all thinking) joints should have a part of it machined flat for clearance. However, as you stated, if that alone were the issue, it would have been seen a long time ago. I would look for slop that finally hit its limit….or….be sure the rudder pedal torque tube has not cracked and partially failed. I think there are three places to look. In this case I would look where the small control arm to nose gear link is attached. I have seen this torque tube crack and break. Worst case no control, but I can picture a version where it jams. In the case I was, the gentleman was heavy set and tall and would somehow put his weight into the pedals while situating himself. Luckily they broke on the ground. I think this is a similar scenario that sometimes breaks the seat back. Under certain loads, I can see the force ending up n the joint I mention. It is very hard to inspect, but can be done…. summary….look at the torque tube where the control link attaches…be sure it’s not cracked…. Repair is a whole other discussion….

Kevin is THE man. Almost all parts can be restored or found. Most pop up on eBay. Only Pegasus is the altitude hold servos if you have that system but I’m convinced there is an answer for that. I have a bunch of spare parts I’ve accumulated, just haven’t had time to organize and post them….if Kevin can’t fix it he knows where to find me. As others have indicated the biggest investment is your time and a willing AP who will allow owner assist or hangar else with the right attitude.

Never thought to check there….sure enough….https://www.mcmaster.com/products/barrel-nuts/dowel-nuts-2~/

…..also…have you ever noticed….when there is an audience….you yell “CLEAR” very loud so that everybody knows you read the AIM. However, yelling “clear” too loud can scare the engine into having performance anxiety and leads to that awkward silence at the end of a few turns of the prop. You will notice that with each subsequent attempt, you say “clear” more quietly until the engine finally determines that all conditions for it to run are met.

It’s interesting how many variations there are to start techniques. I will say mine has evolved over the years and the equipment installed. In its latest and most reliable iteration for my configuration (SureFly mag), I have been using the same technique hot, warm, and cold (gasp). Throttle about 1/4” open, pump on, mixture rich of slow count to 5, mixture closed, starter until it catches, mixture rich assuming solid catch, RPm to 1000. Occasionally on a warm start it will have to try twice. Warm start always seems to be the odd man out. I suspect this consistent starting as attributed to the SureFly and starting rich. Your mileage may and likely will vary. Some choice language may or may not help too….

OP is right, crazy expensive. I’ve made my own as well. I’m surprised nobody has these as a PMA part….hmmm?