DaV8or

Why does everyone in this thread seem to assume the OP has Slick mags?? I couldn't find anywhere he says that. He may have Bendix mags for all we know. He does mention the Slick Start system, but that is not a mag and he doesn't currently have it. Slick Start works with Bendix as well, you don't need to have Slick mags.

Me too. I agree with Mike that we should all be flying AoA. I wish all GA planes had AoA indicators in them from way back and that we were all trained to use them during our PP training, but that's not the case. Now it's a nice to have feature that I want to get one day. Other than that, I pretty much disagree with Mike on the way he flies his pattern. His overshoot, steep turn technique is not for me. No, thanks. Just as a curiosity, why do people obsess about flying tight, in close patterns so much? They say it's so if you lose your engine, you can always make the runway, but why is there so much concern about losing an engine once we get close to an airport? Seems funny to me that after flying over oceans and rugged mountains and dense urban areas and forests full of trees, that we get to an airport and then worry about engine failure.

Change the plugs. Get the Tempest ones either massive, or fine wire. I have the Slick Start and it might help you, but start with the plugs. Plugs are relatively cheap and easy and very well might solve your problem. The Slick Start is basically a solid state version of the shower of sparks system. I have read that most believe the SOS to be superior to impulse coupling. The Slick Start will provide the hottest spark of all, but unfortunately it's power is lost on the narrow gap our plugs have to run properly on the magnetos. I have often thought that what our engines need is a special "starter plug" that works in conjunction with the Slick Start and has a nice big gap to really get a massive spark. Once the engine starts and you release the ignition key, the starter plug would go off along with the Slick Start.

Sweet! Thanks for correcting me. The turbo system does seem pretty nice, particularly for those living in higher altitudes. How much work was it to fit the J cowling?

Just curious, IIRC, you have the Lo Presti cowl, is that so? What made you give up on the turbo and go the Lo Presti route?

Yes. As long as you promise to burn it down again in say, February with whoever becomes president by then in it!!

Are these STCs transferable and if they are, does that cost anything?

There are lots of affordable airparks in the country, but it's all about location, location, location. The low cost ones get you excited until you see where they are. The airpark home of your dreams is pretty much like a load of other people's dreams, so the prices reflect that, but if you just want to live on an airpark, any airpark, there are some very affordable ones out there.

Not me, my airplane! Born August 26 1966. I turned 50 years earlier. Forgot to post this on Friday. I wonder if any of people building her 50 years ago would have imagined it still plugging along in the 21st Century?

I used to rent portable generators and other equipment that went to Burning Man. I quit and refused to rent for that event very quickly. The environment is very hard on equipment and people. There is reason nobody lives there! That fine dust is corrosive and abrasive. It gets into everything, everywhere. Do not try to hose it off!! Water turns it to cement. Wipe, blow and vacuum it off. Those planes parked there will be carrying that dust forever no mater how hard their owners try to clean it all off. I have heard that some plane owners that do park there thoroughly tape off all openings and gaps with blue painter's tape and plastic sheeting. Maybe you could use that stretch wrap they use on pallets too. However think about trying to plug every hole and way into a Mooney. That's a lot of plugging!! I have thought about going out there just to fly over and have a look, but no way I'm landing and staying. Not in my plane anyhow.

Rusty, leaky T "Port-a-Port" hangars sell for about $20,000 out where I am. But Ryron, C83 is over 50 miles from San Francisco, or San Jose. I thought about buying one as the idea of "owning" my own hangar appeals to me, but it just makes no sense. Same deal as described above. Month to month, I pay all the taxes. I rent a very nice hangar from the county that is far superior for $262 a month. Hangars aren't that hard to come by here. Wait a few months and one will open up, so prices stay lower.

The thing to do with those threads is drill them and put in a Heli-coil type steel insert. That's what I had to do with mine and now they are much stronger than original.

And we'll make 'em pay for it too... in pennies.

I got one the other day here in California. It's pretty clear to me now that those bastard Canadians took all their pennies they had saved up for years in some sort of maple jars and ran down to America to buy stuff once they heard they weren't going to be using pennies anymore in their own country. Fully knowing we were too oblivious to notice the difference. ...

No, those are too hard to slow down and impossible to land.

Shhhh... keep it on the down low! I'm a Beech Musketeer guy that's posing as a Mooney guy. Just between you an me, right?

To the OP- I gave up on threads like this a long time ago. As you can see, the responses you get are all over the place. There are lots of ways to imagine how fast you're going. People avoid talking about the red knob and lots of ways to image what "75% power" is. ROP, LOP? Anyhow, just enjoy your plane the way it is and the way you fly it. Don't go spending tons of money on "rigging" just because you think your plane is slow compared to a bunch of guys on the internet. As for speed mods, well as you can see from the responses here, the stock planes fly faster than the ones with speed mods. So don't waste your money. In this day and age, the cheapest and best speed mod is to trade up to a J. For what it's worth (not much) my plane has nearly all the speed mods with 201 windshield and SWTA 201 style cowl, and LOP about 8.5-9 gph and 2450 RPM at 6500ft it goes somewhere around 140- 145 kts. I don't try to measure it super accurately so I have no dog in this fight. Like I said, I gave up giving a crap how fast my plane is a long time ago and have nothing to prove to anybody. I suspect you'll get there one day too.

What I learned most in this thread is how to get into OSH after they close the field. The whole "F bomb" radio transmit is really not that big of a deal IMO. Clearly the OSH controllers had their big boy pants on because they didn't even respond to it. The foul little outburst took a hell of lot less air time than Mr. "Warbird" and his "low on fuel and running on one mag" story.

I think it's the same material they use for engine baffle seals in the cowling. Aircraft Spruce would be the place to get that IMO.

The alternate air valve for the E will be under the air filter. Remove the filter and you can see the valve. It basically pops open at a certain pressure differential if all else gets plugged. I could be wrong, but I think there is an AD out on the older ones. I had to have mine replaced at annual a few years back because it was the old style, or something like that.

Is it a true back fire with a loud bang, or just a stumble? It it's actually going bang! Pop! You have a problem. If it's just stumbling, then that's pretty normal for IO-360s when they're really hot. Mine does it particularly after a hot restart. I think the theory is small vapor bubbles in the injector lines on the top of the engine. Adding throttle should totally clear it up. Leaning further won't help.

Just a total thread drift, but I wonder how the insurance companies feel about salvaged planes. I know in California most insurance companies won't give comprehensive coverage on cars, or trucks that have salvage titles.

If your engine is running fine, then you're likely OK. The bits of rubber were no doubt just passed through the fuel servo and ingested, partly burned and spit out the tail pipe. There are real dangers to having bits of rubber passing through your engine, like blocking one of the impact tubes on the fuel servo, that will have you gliding to the nearest flat spot, or somehow sticking in the combustion chamber, possibly on valve seat. The smoldering rubber could cause pre ignition and you engine will grenade in that condition in just seconds. There are likely more that I can't think of. At the very least, you've been running unfiltered air through the engine and that can be tough on valves so I've been told. That's why the condition of this seal is on the annual inspection checklist. I'm glad you're engine is running good and that your putting a new seal in!

I just screwed mine in. No torque spec that I know of. I didn't use any Loctite, but a little blue couldn't hurt. Just an FYI, folks that live in areas with real weather, where they have tornados and hurricanes laugh at these tie downs. I don't care because I'm a lilly white, fair weather California flyer. My plane spends little time on tie downs.

History has a way of erasing it's tracks as it goes along.