DaV8or

Jolie- Like the new avatar! You guys seem to have so much fun. See you at the block party!

Here's a good follow up question to this thread; how many here have actually launched, gone up to see how bad the weather is and then actually turned around and went back? I have, but it's usually pretty easy for me to do so because I fly alone and I usually don't have to be anywhere.

I have an STEC 30 installed also. I can take pictures if needed.

Bare in mind that your old original paint is faded and affected by time. The color has changed. Also paint formulas get you in the ballpark, but they are not guaranteed to match by a long shot. Best thing to do is bring a panel from your plane to the paint shop and try to match the best chip you can find including the factory colors, then have the shop custom tint the paint to match exactly outdoors, in the sun. Even then, application of the paint can affect the outcome. Properly matching paint color and texture is artistry. I know, I used to paint cars.

Being a new owner, I too have wrestled with the where do you put the engine controls and who do you believe dilemma. I found solace in the fact that almost everyone agrees that if you run your engine at 65%, you pretty much can't hurt your engine, so put the mixture where ever you like. For now, I'm choosing 100 ROP until I can grill some more people on the subject. I still get 10gph and that's OK.

I have both the one sticking through the windsheild and one sticking out of the fuselage under the pilot's window that's connected to the EDM 700. I'm thinking of removing the windsheild one and plugging the hole. It's hard to read and looks kind of goofy... oh, and all that drag!

Quote: Piloto Yeah, bring a six pack of that Diet Coke and let me know how it feels half hour later. You will ran out of disposble containers. If you think cup holders are a nice thing to have a relief tube is even better. José

Quote: N223MM I am lucky enough to have power in my hangar. However, if I were going to use a generator I would consider modifying the exhaust so as to mount a heat exchanger and then blow some of the warm air into the cowling in addition to plugging in the electric engine heater. Since engines waste in the neighborhood of 50% of the fuel's energy in heat, it would seem to stand to reason that recapturing some of the waste heat for this pupose would both speed up the warming process and make it more efficient to boot.

Quote: OR75 I have seen a lot of discussion on cup holders and wondering what I am missing. What does a cup holder brings as far as "cockpit management" goes ?. Are you realling looking at having a cup of coffee or glass of water there ?Or what am I missing ?

Anybody else? Seems not much interest in cupholders amongst the electric gear folks.

Do you have a voltage meter installed in your plane? If not, you may want to test for voltage drop when you turn on your landing light. I'm just speculating, but if your oil pressure gauge works by measuring resistance from the transducer, then a significant drop in voltage would cause a high reading. If you do have a big voltage drop, it means your charging system isn't keeping up with the load of the landing light. A voltage meter attached to the panel buss should tell you.

Well, now we know that the rotory vents went at least '65 to '78 and that's a whole lot a Mooneys! May have to make a photoshop of my plans. Seems like there are a fair number of planes with this type. Anybody have a '64? How about after '78?

One thing that nobody has mentioned yet is the fixed boarding step. You can see it got pushed back and therefore, being made of steel, probably did some pretty bad damage to the aluminum parts of the fuselage it is bolted to. Could be a fair amount of repair and expense just on that. Guess that's one advantage to the retractable step. I agree with others here, if you are willing and able to do most of the work yourself and you have a good A & P with AI willing to work with you and sign off on your work, then it might be worth it. If you are thinking of paying to have these repairs made, then delete the ad off your hard drive and pretend you never saw it. It's really not worth it with so many low priced airworthy Mooneys on the market now.

If you haven't done so already, I would suggest posting on the AOPA board too. Casts a much wider net.

Quote: Skybrd

Quote: N223MM Looks nice but it would not work for me. I have a fuel selector and gear indicator down there. I think I do anyway. I have not really been in my J for 3 weeks now - waiting for the avionics replacements to be done.

Thinking of making this cup holder mod for my F. It would be vacuum formed Royalite type plastic with similar grain and incorporates a side pocket for things like check lists or a POH. Below is a before photo and a crude photoshop of what it would look like. Only would work for guys with electric gear and would have to be adjusted for J and K types. Any thoughts or ideas on it? Anybody want one?

Quote: skyking I have the airliner ball type in my 1959 M20A

I am seriously considering a major remodel of my ceiling panel that would include conversion of the rotory dial outlets to the eyeball swivel type like on airliners, conversion of the finger toasting spotlights to eyeball swiveling LED spotlights and conversion of the dome light to LED as well. In addition, all new plastic covering, new knobs and new speaker grill. Making the molds, jigs and layout for the parts is not cheap or easy, so I'm trying to determine if there are others out there that would like a conversion like this, how many there are and how much they would be willing to spend. First step is to try to determine how many planes Mooney built with the rotory vents like mine. A picture is attached below of the rotory vents I have. So far it seems they made them from 1965 - 1969 at least. I suspect they started in either '64 or '65 and I have no idea when the ended. So what type do you have and what year is your plane? Thanks for the help!

If I were do the Sandel, I would need all the parts because I have no HSI now. I would also have to get the whole deal used like you did to make it work. I saw a used 3308 on the Bennett used avionics site for about $3300, but wasn't clear that it included all the supporting instruments. Is it realistic to think I could get the whole kit and kaboodle for $3500? Also, what about this projector bulb that needs to be replaced every year? Does your's have that?

Quote: flyboy0681 I'm mindful of having too much nose up trim in the event a last second go-around is required. It could end ugly if not executed well.

I've gotten sort of interested in a used Sandel 3308 after reading this thread, but what I'm not clear on is, does it still require a mechanical gyro to get it's heading information? I can only budget for used and I'm not that thrilled with buying used gyros. However, if I feel better about buying used electronics, is a flux gate all electronic, or does it have moving parts as well?

Just to muddy the waters a bit, there is also the Ultra Electronics AuRACLE CRM2100. Advantages are, It is compatible with existing JPI probes, so speeds up install time. Has patented redundant analog instrument lights in case the display dies. Used defined bugs for the power settings. Disadvantages are; Most expensive. Limited authorized installers. Does not do fuel level, so you still need independent fuel gauges.

Quote: jezzie I have a photoshop layout and can't seem to cut and paste to this thread.

Quote: M204ever The pictures are off a 1963 M20C.