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m20j

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Everything posted by m20j

  1. Had the same issue with foggy '77 green windows. Went with the thicker LP Aero Plastic side windows, upgraded to the larger pilot side window opening STC, and added an opening window to the co-pilot side. Fantastic upgrades, and the solar gray looks so much better!
  2. Ha. My wife and I just saw 3 guys cruising on one wheels on a gravel park trail. Except they bolted a piece of plywood on top for a platform, then screwed a cheap lawn chair onto that. Maneuvering with just a little bit of arm and leg weight shifting, it was quite a site to see. Not sure how they got on to start the process, but I wish I would have taken some video of them zipping along the trails.
  3. Speaking of Bike Fridays, I will attest that the Family Tandem will fit through the baggage door of a J, and is compact enough that the entire bike sits in the baggage area below the top of the back seat. Just hauled ours from CA to NJ and back. It takes up significantly less space than our two single folders, and as a bonus I can leave the back seat up and use it.
  4. Jaeger offered an owner-assist when I redid mine. Took a vacation week off and did a father-son build in lovely Wilmar, MN. Turned out very well, and glad I went that direction.
  5. You know -- I'll have to check that out!
  6. Stumbled on a low priced, new Klixon switch source -- complete with ugly pale green covers. This one is only 3 amps, but at $63 bucks, is the cheapest new Klixon I've ever seen, and is appropriate for some LED applications. https://peerlesselectronics.com/20tc2-bg-3-circuit-breaker 37 in stock as of today. Bought it, had it installed, it fits on the busbar, and it works just as it should! Thought someone here might be interested.
  7. Same here. Flat wingtips, 2 strobes there, none on the tail. Looks like this mid-body configuration could use a tailbeacon.
  8. The discussion was the warm air spill-over from the oversized cowl vents up front. The side vent is in that path. More air goes in than can flow through the cylinders, swirls around, and spills out the sides. Lopresti made the cowl openings smaller in the initial J, but not small enough.
  9. I have a ‘77 midbody J with a Grimes incandescent bulb, no strobe on the tail. Why would the tailbeacon be incompatible?
  10. Have seen reports that putting the OAT in the pilot side air inlet at knee level will cause it to read high during cruise, due to warm air spillover from the cowl. Mine does in a J Further out and under the wing was said to be preferable. Wish I had had known that then.
  11. Also -- solvents! Both acrylic and polycarbonate windows are each very susceptible to crazing and damage from certain solvents, in particular where there are stress points from installation or the original forming process. Perhaps even more so than UV. The safest cleaner to use is an acrylic safe polish or cleaner. I've never understood the variety of stuff people use instead of buying the right product for the application. It's not even that much more expensive. Having been in the manufacturing industry with these materials, I have seen variations on the video below inadvertently demonstrated too many times, with either crazing or cracking as the end result. There are many sources of compatibility charts. http://www.holophane.com/hlp_library/brochures/HL-2445.pdf https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjrwpS1nKDXAhVE34MKHQ1YBxQQFghIMAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.allplastics.com.au%2Fcomponent%2Fdocman%2Fdoc_download%2F173-allplastics-perspex-chemical-resistance-pdf%3FItemid%3D&usg=AOvVaw2li7k6D2MN0UzRlPeCwCz9 And data from our window manufacturers: http://www.lpaero.com/careins.html Why risk some untested product on our expensive windows? And if you can't find a local source for Aircraft window cleaners, motorcycles and boats also have the same acrylic.
  12. Spoke with Dan and added my name to his list. He said he is meeting with the machinist this week and anticipates the production run to be ready in 4-6 weeks, but will know more after they talk.
  13. Just got mine installed today. Oversized on pilot side, and regular sized on the copilot. Can't wait to get it out after the adhesive cures and try them out!
  14. Just looked at Jim's web site. It seems his refurb includes attachments, but they should be squawked...
  15. For replacements, sure. The Mooney ones are vac formed sheet, and mine are crumbling.
  16. OK. Replace my request with "thin, thermal vacuum formed plastic sheet compound that cracks like Royalite when it ages".
  17. Looking at your parts planes. Are the teardrop royalite fairings that mount to the wing behind the gear doors intact by any chance?
  18. ^ ^ ^ ^ This! I had some avionics service done on my '77 J. Unfortunately, what I thought was a very thorough pre-flight missed the fact that someone at the shop bumped the manual gear engagement lever over as they were under the panel. It wasn't on my checklist and is not obvious down past my knee from the pilot's position. Net result on the 1st gear retraction was as described, with the added bonus of the aluminum Dukes case splitting open and dumping the gear set after something bound up. Gear dangling, both the electric and manual gear extend no-worky, and I ended up with a belly landing (no foam.) There is now one more item checked after anyone other than me is in the plane!
  19. Nothing gets "sucked out" of the lines. The injectors are simply an orifice on the end of a fuel line that provides a continuous flow of fuel into the intake manifold when the engine is running. When the mixture is pulled, the injectors stop squirting but the lines remain full of fuel, as the cutoff point is further upstream. The residual engine heat (and lack of cooling airflow) raises the temperature of the fuel lines above the boiling point of the fuel. This bubbles it out of the lines and into the intake manifold. There it vaporizes and is ready for the next hot start, if one understands the process and doesn't prime further!
  20. Well, personally I think you got lucky. He could have nailed you to the wall for that Left Hand entry door, which as far as I can recall, is a highly desirable but unapproved modification to your Mooney.
  21. Similarly, I have found that a plastic storage tote with a pair of boat cushions on top provides a soft surface to prevent scratches and is just the right height as the bottom cowl lowers down onto it. Makes cowl removal an easy 1 man job. The boat cushions then live inside the tote to keep them clean.
  22. Almost ... Pulling the mixture stops the fuel flow, but does not empty the lines. Fuel lines sitting on top of the hot cylinders boils out through the injectors and into the head / manifold (hence the "sizzle".) Resulting condition leaves an slightly too-rich-to-start condition that takes a few blades to pull through with the mixture OFF until it is lean enough to fire. Touching the boost pump at all only floods it worse. There is no blocked flow with the Lycoming fuel injected engines. It's not starting because there is too much fuel, not too little. As said earlier, try shutting down with the mixture while idling at 1000 rpm if you are going to be hot starting in the next 30 minutes or so. Then don't touch anything but the starter switch. Kicks somewhere around 2-4 blades on my J nearly every time. After it fires, then push the mixture back in. Quote: bd32322 from reading on the web it looks like extra fuel is not the problem. The fuel exists in the fuel lines despite pulling the mixture out. This fuel turns into vapor because of the heat of the engine which then blocks fuel flow to the cylinders when you later try to start. The web articles say this is usually not a problem with injected engines because the fuel is under high pressure in the injectors and so trying to prime it with the boost pump ends up dumping extra fuel. So I wonder what will happen if I just cut off the fuel from the fuel cutoff valve and keep the mixture in the full rich position - the next time I anticipate a hot start. The engine should use up all the fuel in the lines on the engine side of the cutoff valve I think - and then when attempting a restart I really will need to use the boost pump to provide fuel to the cylinders. Worth a try... Bodi
  23. uote: allsmiles Does it include the ladies polishing the valve covers and changing the oil??
  24. The J has an adjustment for the cowl flaps in the maintenance manual. Perhaps your gap is too wide? NOTE For improved cooling during summer months or above normal temperature operations, cowl flaps may be rigged to have a 0.25 max inch gap at "B" when in the closed position. http://i42.tinypic.com/io21hh.png
  25. Quote: OR75 Whelen A490TCF is PMA replacemnt for the Hoskins part you are looking for. But you will loose the syncr capability if your hoskins strobes are syncronized
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