Hank

Rob-- My 1970 POH says this on p.3-12: Before applying power for takeoff, quickly recheck for: 1. Propeller--FULL INCREASE. 2. Trim Indicator--TAKEOFF. 3. Flap Indicator--TAKEOFF or as desired. 4. Fuel Selector Handle--FULLER TANK. I usually desire FLAPS UP, unless I am heavy. For crosswind, I simply accelerate a little faster and pop off the ground [p. 3-13]: When making a cross-wind takeoff, hold the nose wheel on the runway longer and accelerate to a higher speed than normal. Pull up abruptly to avoid contact with the runway while drifting. When clear of the ground, make a coordinated turn into the wind to correct for drift. My instructor at the MAPA PPP suggested putting the trim a little above Takeoff, so I spin the trim wheel so that the bottom of the nice, wide white stripe is touching the Takeoff line. For landing, I also follow my POH [p.3-23}: BEFORE LANDING CHECKLIST 9. Flaps--As required. 10. Trim--As required. LANDING To allow for a safe margin above stall speed throughout approach, hold airspeed above 90 MPH until the flaps are lowered. Degree of flap deflection needed will vary according to landing conditions, but for most landings you should lower flaps about half way just prior to turning on to base leg. Extend flaps as required on final approach to adjust for variations in wind, glide angle, and other variables. On final, trim the aircraft to fly hands-off at an approach speed of about 80 MPH. Yes, this runs counter to what many people here and on the MAPA boards say about make every landing with full flaps. All I can say is that this is taken directly from my POH--check your own and see what it says. YMMV and all that, too, but it works very well for me. Two Mooney CFI's agree--the one who transitioned me, and the MAPA PPP instructor who flies a 69 C-model. I did not delve into this in the original post because he was asking about crosswind takeoffs in a long-body, and we KNOW those handle differently. On my Instrument checkride, the wind was almost 90º to the runway and gusting into the mid-teens, and I just held her on the ground to a little above 75 and popped quickly into the air, making a comment as I passed 70 about "a little faster for the crosswind" and the DPE was fine with it. It's all part of the beauty of being PIC. When you're in command, you get to fly the plane your way.

All of my takeoffs are no-flap, unless I'm loaded heavy. Home is 3001' with trees at each end, high enough that we have no approaches. Night landings are fun, since they obscure the runway end lights until short final. No flap departures, Takeoff flap landings, adjust flaps on final as needed.

Thank you for creating and posting your spreadsheet. I've been trying to do that for the last three years, but haven't gotten past accumulating huge stacks of receipts . . . Partly from lack of motivation, partly because I don't really want to know exactly how much I've been spending. I do look forward to my insurance renewal this year, to see just how much my new Instrument Rating will reduce it. Will insuring just me for the plane ever drop to just the cost of insuring my wife and I together on three cars??? One thing I've never understood is why people include hangars, insurance and annuals when they calculate "operating cost." Yes, you have to pay them, but they are fixed costs of ownership. If you flew zero hours, these costs must be paid, and then your "operating cost" change from zero [you didn't fly, so you spent nothing going anywhere] to infinite. Your spreadsheet shows an increase of over 50% i n operating costs because you didn't fly as much as you thought you would, but the increase is simply dividing your fixed [non-operating] costs by fewer hours. Your actual operational expenses are lower if your operating time drops. To me, "operating costs" are what I pay to operate my plane--fuel, oil, tires, overnight fees when away from home, repairs when things break, etc. My hangar or tie down must be paid regardless of whether I fly the plane zero hours or ten hours a day every day. Does the fact that I flew less in May [~2 hours] than in April [~15 hours] mean that my hourly costs in May were higher? No, they were the same, and I actually spent less dollars in May, which proves the operating cost didn't increase. You are to be commended, though, for posting your actual expenses, as it is informative to other pilots for comparison, and to prospective owners to realize the full cost of ownership. I just disagree with the classification of every dollar spent on the airplane going into operational expense.

Be sure to practice your manual extension, and reread that section of the POH from time to time. I had an electrical failure and had to do a manual extension while training with my CFII. Having just re-read this a few days prior, it was fresh in my mind, and I handed over the book AFTER completing lowering the gear so the II could make sure it was correct. Your procedures are a little different from mine, but know your plane and its systems.

When I transitioned into my '70-C, planning ahead on descents was the biggest challenge. Our planes will go down or slow down, but will not do both. Fortunately I have a balanced 3-blade which makes a decent airbrake when needed, less and less as the flights go by. You will find it to be an amazing plane! I took mine from WV to WY, a short trip alphabetically, but 1320 nm with the wife and "stuff" for 10 days. No problems whatever, and of course a quicker trip headed back east. Have lots of fun! Pretty soon the "tinking ahead" part will become second nature. Just watch your speed around the pattern, and you will be rewarded with pretty landings. Complements from passengers are always nice . . .

I just keep blank paper on my kneeboard [8½ x 11, folded in half = kneeboard size; I'm right-handed, so it goes crease to the right and doesn't fold open] on top of my custom-made-by-myself checklist booklet, and let the sectional/enroute lay on top of that. The paper & checklists are clipped to the kneeboard for reference and notes [clearances, frequency changes, preflight weather notes, etc]. I have a small yoke clip to put pdf printouts of approach plates and/or AOPA kneeboard format printouts of airport information. The Flight Guide lives on the floor, standing up between the seats and will support a water bottle in front of it. Folded next-use charts are to the left between my leg and the side panel. Once I fly off of a chart, it either goes between the seats or behind them, as I won't need it until another day, and I refold it properly after landing. The complete approach plate book lives sideways on the floor on top of the gear indicator window, where it's easy to slide aside a couple inches for verification. In my one in-flight emergency, everything but the kneeboard [foggles, sectional, plates, enroute, and everything else I was holding/touching] went over my right shoulder and I dealt with it on the ground. Nothing like a complete electrical failure at the IAP over the VOR on a VOR-A to get your attention and make you concentrate, especially when it's two minutes after ATC says "lost radar contact. Call us back this frequency after the miss." How much stuff are you trying to organize? And no, I'm not sure where my wife keeps her water bottle. Seems like they are often both between the seats. Yes, they sometimes roll around, but with the green book there, they aren't going far and are easy to reach.

You'll fit just fine. Remember back seat leg room, though, when comparing Mooney models. Up to E is short body [like my C--my wife and I fly all the time, but she keeps her seat in the first notch, I keep mine in the 2nd], the F model starts the mid-body, and then there are the 6-cylinder long bodies. Not much difference if any in cabin width or height, just leg room. The seat sits about 2" higher off the floor than in my Jaguar convertible [there's just enough clearance to slide it]. There's room enough to slide a THIN paperback book under the seat, but it's not for storage. Never having sat in my own back seat, I can't address if there is back seat toe room under there or not. Headroom has never been an issue. I've had cars where a ballcap rubbed the roof, but I can put the edge of my hand on top of my headset and still wiggle it up and down. Be prepared, however, for the panel to be closer than what you've flown before. You'll get used to it, though, and figure out how to tune the radio without having to straighten out your elbow or stretch. The best advice is to sit in one. Since there's an event coming up at your airport, GO! Meet people, express an interest and you'll be able to sit in at least one to evaluate space. There's just no graceful way to get out. I find the easiest is for the right-seater to roll out onto their knees then stand up, and I scoot across and exit onto my left knee followed by right foot, then upright. Putting the seat close to the floor also puts the roof closer to the bottom, reducing cross-sectional area and drag, which increases speed and reduces fuel burn. THAT's what Mooneys were designed to do--go fast AND go thrifty. Happy hunting!

I don't remember the PPP saying that it was "unsafe," just that we would not do them as part of the course. My CFII and the DPE both requested touch-and-go landings. I don't do them at home because the field is short [3001'] and obstructed at both ends [tall trees]. While not part of my normal routine, they are in my bag of tricks if needed.

Congratulations! Spend as much time on the shop floor as possible without getting in the way, and participate in your annuals, too. It's a great way to learn how the aircraft is put together, which will help you learn not only how it works but why it works the way it does. The more I learn about my plane, the better I am able to fly it, and the better prepared I am when the unexpected pops up in the air. Hope everything goes well!

In my electric-gear C, they are not a problem. I follow the guidance in my "Owners Manual" when landing: "Degree of flap deflection needed will vary according to landing conditions, but for most landings you should lower flaps about half way just prior to turning on to base leg. Extend flaps as required on final approach to adjust for variations in wind, glide angle and other variables." Normal landings at my 3000' home field are half flaps on downwind, drop the gear, slow to 85 mph on final, and add more flaps only if necessary. Because we are short with trees at both ends, I don't do T&G there, either. For a Toucn-N-Go, it's a normal landing [flaps wherever], roll along while raising flaps all the way, then full power and rotate at 70 mph. It takes a stiff left arm until I'm high enough to feel safe moving my right hand from holding full-everything to start cranking the trim wheel, but it also doesn't take very long to hit 500' agl. It DOES, however, require a long ground run to get the flaps full up before pushing everthing forward. [she doesn't slow down below 50 mph, either.] I like 5000' or more. Did many with my CFII, and some more on my IFR checkride. Not a problem. Why do so many people insist on making every landing [except strong, gusty crosswinds] with full flaps? In almost three years' and 300 hours in my Mooney, I can count my full-flap landings on my fingers.

My C-model can't compare with the new turbos in the flight levels, but this photo was last year at this time [9500', WOT/2500, my head on a swivel as I was passing an SR20]. Last week, enroute to my IFR checkride, I saw 165 kts groundspeed [3500', 22"/2400] for all of 15 minutes before I was there. [No picture--who takes a camera on a checkride?] Oh, yeah, fuel flow averaged just under 9 gph for both trips . . .

Just get any dip stick and a hand file. Drain one tank [fly it as low as possible first], then put in two gallons at a time. Dip the stick, use the file to put a notch in it; add two gallons, dip and file. Then at your leisure, make the marks bigger and add numbers--use an engraver or a Dremel tool. Some people use a wooden dowel and a pocket knife, then transfer the marks to the dip stick. Quick, easy, cheap and guaranteed to be accurate.

One other thing I have a hard time remembering: reduce speed on final by 5 mph for every 300 lbs below gross. Mooney's will not land fast, and will not slow down in a descent. Plan your descent to pattern altitude well in advance of the field. Don't try to enter the pattern above 100 until you have 50 hours or so, or lots of practice. "Speed management" cannot be over-emphasized, and our flaps are small. In the flare, keep the nose up and let the plane settle on its own. If you can see the AS, it should be well under 70, but I'm usually looking down the field then. Unless its gusty or crosswind, I often get the stall horn too. My half-flap, max gross stall is 64 mph. Trying to set down faster than that will put it on the nose wheel, and too much faster will lead directly to a porpoise . . . followed by your choice of full power or a visit from the NTSB.

There are as many variations of landing procedures as there are pilots. When I transitioned from brand-C with a still-damp temporary certificate, I learned to keep it simple in my C. Enter the pattern at 1000 agl [1600 msl at home]; use the prop control as a speedbrake if needed, but enter at 100 or less. Midfield downwind, half flaps, drop gear, trim for 90 mph and back off the throttle enough for a good descent. Maintain 90 on base, turn final and slow to 85. Just like in the beginning, pitch for speed and throttle for altitude. Add extra flaps only if needed [i'm high]. Clear the trees at 650-700 msl, throttle to idle, and I'm on the ground gently at ~500 past the numbers. With no trees it is easier. At shutdown, my trim indicator is usually very close to where I set it for two-person no flap departure--touching the top edge of the Takeoff mark. There are two important keys: speed management is critical, and you learn it by practice. Having only one power reduction [when I drop the gear] and two speeds to worry about [90 all the way, 85 on final] allows me to nail the speed while controlling path and watching the trees. If throttling back won't get me down at 85 indicated, add some flaps; if I'm still not down, push everything forward and climb over the trees at the other end, throttle back on crosswind to 16-18"/2300-2400 and try again. Then you won't climb too high or get too fast. Your F has more power than me, but I rarely look at MP--I focus on airspeed, altitude and descent rate.

Relax, you can't really fly the wings off of it. If you could, mine would have that problem. My first post-insurance-required dual was to take the wife out to eat, 3½ car hours or 1:15 by Mooney. That first flight is almost as memorable as my student solo, but was certainly much more enjoyable. Just the first of many trips not possible any other way. And I fly a slow(er) C-model. Seems like there's just no such thing as a slow Mooney . . .

My favorite: to make a small fortune in aviation, start with a large fortune. And a carryover from RC models: nose heavy flies poorly, tail heavy flies once.

All that said above, I still love my electric gear C. It's simply built, easy to maintain, economical, and with 9 gph giving 140 kts, there's no worrying about LOP. Just watch the carb temp. A few owner-assisted annuals will make you very knowledgable about how the plane is put together and how it works, and it's obvious that Al Mooney employed the KISS principle; as a mechanical engineer, that's something that I appreciate. Just be aware that there are occasional challenges with airplanes of our vintage. Much of the threads referenced above make specific points to watch out for. Whichever model you end up with, I'm sure you'll have a blast. Keep an open mind, and look at all models in your price range--that will give you a better chance to find the "perfect plane" with whichever mods/upgrades/equipment is most important to you. Just realize that there are tradeoffs between models, and differences between individual aircraft within the same model. Welcome to the family, and fly safe!

Congratulations and welcome to the club! I had 62 hours and a four-week-old paper temporary certificate when I bought mine. All it takes is a good Mooney CFI, some patience, lots of practice and an agent willing to work with you to find insurance. The first year was painful, but well worth it. FLY AT LEAST 100 MOONEY HOURS IN YOUR FIRST YEAR OF OWNERSHIP!! Keep flying while looking, too, aiming for 100 hours total if not PIC. My insurance dropped 50% with 100 Mooney hours, and should drop another third when I finish off my IFR rating next week. There is much good information buried in old posts here about the different models and body lengths, but for me, a short body fits just fine and I like the electric gear. Had I ended up with manual gear, I'd probably like it that way instead. Just fly the numbers, Mooneys require finesse . . . All said, it's an airplane, fly it like one. Have fun, be safe, and a Mooney is certainly not beyond your ability.

Boy, you modern guys have it easy! When VFR, I drop the gear on downwind; when IFR, I fly at 105 MPH indicated with approach flaps, and drop the gear at the FAF or 1½ dots high on glideslope, then push the prop and mixture forward. In any case, flap speed is 125 MPH [108 kts], and gear speed is 120 MPH [104 kts]. So I have to manage speed for the descent a little more, typically pulling back 1-2" and pointing down around 500 fpm and planning an extra couple of miles to bleed speed from 160-165 or higher down to <125. Blistering into the pattern is rude to other traffic, forces me really wide, and doesn't help me to get the wheels down. One last GUMP check on final [Get the gear down; Undercarriage down; Make sure the gear is down; and Put the gear down] and I'm ready to come in over the trees. We have lots of front seat legroom, too, and enough headroom all the way around for anyone, although I try to only put short people in the back seat. --Hank, 1970 M20-C

I have taken my C-model from WV to Wyoming, and will be going to Montana this summer. No problems with airports enroute. Flying west into the prevailing winds will slow you down some--flight aware showed my ground speed hovering around 130 kts for 1300 nm. The best place to cross into Canada is central MT, but I don't remember the airport. It's a small airport right on the border, and will work for crossing both directions. A local flyer has been to AK three times, and is still there now. If I can get in touch with him, I'll forward his comments and suggestions. He took his C-172 two times, and is now in a C-182. Good grass strips shouldn't be a problem. I go in and out of a local grass strip here, 2400' with a gravel pile at one end [it's at a cement plant, it's a BIG gravel pile], and the local YMCA outdoor pool & soccer fields at the other end. It's just not something I would try at gross weight, but two people and full fuel aren't a problem. Have fun, fly safe and enjoy the trip! Getting there actually IS a lot of fun. --Hank

My M20C has 970 lbs. useful load--52 gals fuel, me, and my favorite 500 lbs worth of friends and gear.

Welcome to the club! I have a '70C, and it's a dream machine. I read somewhere to allow 2-3 gallons for runup and taxi [sounds good unless you're at a large commercial field], and plan one gallon per cylinder per hour extra for full-rich climb. I don't trust the second one as much. The POH shows my max fuel burn to be 18 gph at sea level and full throttle. I usually cruise 7500-9500', so my longest climbs are less than a half hour at 100 mph - ALT in thousands [higher speed, slower climb when it's hot], so that would put me no more than 4.5 gallons above cruise burn. The key is to manage your descent and make up some of the climb fuel. I normally pull 2-3" out of the throttle and trim for 500 fpm, keeping airspeed at or slightly above cruise if it's not rough. Fuel burn goes down and speed drops off slowly; just keep inching the throttle back and the mixture forward as you come down, whenever manifold pressure climbs more than an inch works well. Richen the mixture to keep no more than your cruise EGT. Flying this way I am able to average 9 gph and close to 140 knots groundspeed. I strongly suggest making time to attend one of the MAPA Pilot Proficiency Programs, which will give you lots of Mooney-specific instruction in your own plane, with plenty of reading material to review afterwards. It will give you knowledge of how your Mooney is put together and functions, and confidence to use it as it was designed. --Hank

There's nothing wrong with a past gear-up if it was all fixed correctly. Most of that will be in the logs. A good mechanic can talk you through them to your satisfaction. Talk to your mechanic about any missing logs, as it can be a problem later. Garmin 430 is a great tool, even better with the WAAS upgrade. Help do as much as possible--pulling the interior panels out is a very educational process, and will teach you about the plane. [i learned a lot then, and more with owner-assisted annuals.] Our vintage Mooneys are greatly improved with the 201 windshield and cowl closure. Just like panel upgrades, find a plane that already has them. My C-model has a 3-blade, with no vibration and no problems. A quick test flight will let you know how it works, and if you like it. As many people have said many times, look first for good solid maintenance history, then a good airframe & engine, then look for goodies. Brittain autopilots are not expensive to add, and I like mine. The current backlog there will provide time to prepare. Just be cautious enough on the purchase price so that insurance and hangar/tie down charges still leave funding for transition CFI time and fuel for your own practice and regular flying. Good sources for aircraft valuation are MAPA Log [there's an article every other month, with Pre-J's and Moderns alternating], and AOPA's Vref, plus the old-fashioned scanning of ads for comparison. Happy hunting, and fly safe!

My '70-C does that sometimes, but only when it's cold. If I run the oil pan heat for 30-45 minutes if the temps are around freezing, or 1 hr or so if in the 20's, I have few problems. Something I learned at the MAPA PPP is to run the electric fuel pump only until the fuel pressure maxes out, then turn if off. Next, push the mixture to rich, and pump the throttle several times [twice if temps are comfortable, 3-4 if cold, and 5 or 6 times if very far below freezing] and sit there for a minute while the fuel vaporizes before cranking. If all else fails, pull it into a heated hangar for 30-45 minutes while freshening the battery. If you want to recharge your battery without removing the top cowl, I find a half hour or so at 2400 or 2500 RPMs works really well, and I get to sightsee at the same time. There's no need for high power [20" or 21" should do the job], but you'll still cover a lot of ground. Practice some maneuvers, timed turns, do an approach or two, and the battery should be pretty well charged, assuming it starts in the first place. Again, this is only a problem in the winter, and bit me in my 4th month of ownership. Since then, I've only had two times it wouldn't crank--once when heat wasn't available, and last week when the temps were in the teens and the oil preheat had been plugged in overnight. Never did figure that one out, but charged the battery and it fired right up the next day. My coldest departure was 8F, with overnight oil preheat, and hand-turning the prop 3-4 revolutions immediately before boarding, and it cranked just fine. Good luck with yours. Sometimes it's a challenge to find enough cockpit duties to kill 60 seconds between pumping throttle and cranking. Winding and setting the clock just doesn't take long enough. Sometimes I just wish it had a priming function! --Hank

I've not had a problem with my poodle, over the Appalachians and across NC and back. Altitudes varied from 1000 AGL on the first test hop around the pattern up to 9500 over the hills. I've talked to people whose dogs don't like IFR, though. Mine never made a sound, which is better than he travels in the car. In the plane, he's always in his crate, belted into the back seat; it usually rides loose in the car, but there's lots less turbulence on the highway. His longest flight so far was a bit over 2 hours. Day and night are both fine. I've looked into getting some mutt muffs [ear muffs for dogs & cats] but have not yet. --Hank