dkkim73

I do like that paint scheme. It does seem vaguely orca-ish...

I think after applying brutane as I did, using the gasket remover GeeBee mentioned would be the best of both worlds.

First, I am not willing to take responsibility for any nightmares you have viewing the following pictures. Initially, I considered prying them up. But the seam is very narrow, the paint adjacent, and I had previously installed them quite securely (potted in RTV silicone as opposed to a dab of Whatever from the factory). They did not budge with modest force, so I did a variant of something I read about here. A good universal/coarse pitch wood screw delivered adequate purchase, followed by a firm pull/twist with a vice grip: Then I carefully scraped out the silicone. I did use a brass brush (toothbrush-type gun cleaning brush), but in very limited manner to avoid adjacent paint. Some wiping with alcohol and a pinch of acetone. Paint is better than shown, there was some tape residue etc that makes the area look messier than it is.

Curious if this works. After I put new ones in recently I followed a suggestion from here and put a little circle of autobody protector film over each.

The physical setup and connection is fairly straightforward from everything. This is a good post on that thread about the nuances,:

Planning to do this in the upcoming annual in March, I'll let you know if I gain any additional insight. PIREPs from others have been very positive, esp. for those who fly in contested airspace crowded parts of the country. The others have paved the way here on specifics, both on that thread and 1-2 related ones. IIUC there are some subtleties around what features are enabled (not necessarily everything a Flightstream 210 can do, but the flight plan sync which is key for most of us). @LANCECASPER is a good PoC on specifics.

Oh yeah, I know. I meant these days. Sorry to be unclear.

Beautiful plane. An instructor once told me it was known for generating an unusually large amount of wake turbulence. So.... what do you mean by "cleared the pattern"? Like flies in a leafblower...

I suppose in the TCAS era these days, you could give him a nice little RA to explain and write up.

@Geoff was my instructor at the MPPP last Summer in Cheyenne. Great guy and very helpful instructor, both in basics and for tips and refinements to technique.

I think it's so that you're comfortably ROP in all cylinders with a good margin incl on CHTs. I was advised to boost fuel flow to achieve the TIT #s I mentioned. Paul @kortopates might be able to provide further engineering rationale. Also IIRC the 380F max is a Mike Busch recommendation as a working max. Not a constraint to optimize against. So I generally try to keep them significantly lower if I can. My understanding is that, unless things are "too cool" (in terms of deposits), cylinder longevity is better with lower CHTs, for metallurgic reasons. This is my non-specialist's take on things.

In fact, I *think* (still learning) the FltPlan.com profiles might not be compatible with the more nuanced performance profiles on GP (multiple altitude and power settings for the Acclaim, for example).

Ammeter is accurate in that there is current flowing from where the battery is (in parallel with the GPU) through the remainder of the system. It's just not isolating the battery from the GPU connection. Think of the battery and the GPU as a yoked pair of oxen and the ammeter is telling you how much work they are doing together (from the wagon's viewpoint). Further, since the GPU "pulls harder", in fact as hard as needed , the battery ox can just loaf along without pulling at all.

Oh, you fly in the ointment, you... Haven't you figured out what a paranoid I am by now?? I already do this as well.

@MatthiasArnold Doh. That makes a lot more sense, esp. given what the OP just posted as well. Looks like it's physically up front by the circuit breaker panel and rectifiers in the M20TN at least (prob. similar to the M20R) Page EH420G - 029 of the MAN180 maintenance manual (914 out of 1169 in the PDF). Looks like the only thing between the battery and aux power port electrically-speaking is maybe the battery relay (hard to tell, I hate navigating PDF schematics). So "looking into the battery" you'd see a discharge if power is coming from the GPU port. @CaptainBen having the battery in parallel with the GPU should also help buffer voltage spikes. So I think running it off the GPU alone isn't something you'd want, so long as the bus voltage stays above the resting potential of a fully-charged battery. Which I am guessing this would do if it's a GPU set for a 28V system.