Pinecone

I use Bruce's window HeatShields. Lower temp, keep out prying eyes, and pretty easy to install. Also got all the plugs from Bruce's. Pitot cover from Amazon also.

It looks like the first one is trying to get most of what he put into it. The avionics are nice, but typically sell for, at best, the cost of the equipment, nothing for install, which is easily half what he paid. The engine is high time, so figure the cost of a GOOD overhaul. If in the East, our own @jetdriven can help review logs and do pre-buys. He was very helpful in my first time buying process.

That is why I kept the halogen rear lights. I put in the Orion, but had my shop run a wire for the tail light. They had uses the strobe wire to power the strobe earlier.

The option for right seater does not specify shut down or not. If a pilot right seater, I shut down and let them get the chock. If a non-pilot, I would have them deplane, the get out and get it myself.

I guess they never saw the video of a lipo battery burning underwater. The problem with the fire bags is they contain the flames (which is good), but they don't contain the hot, noxious, gases.

Except I have a sump only heater. I also toss a remote thermometer under the cowl. After overnight (in a hangar so no wing) the under cowl temp is typically in the 70s. So everything is nice and warm.

Which means the same moisture content will be lower relative humidity. Two drivers of corrosion. Liquid water (condensation) and high RH. Heater addresses both issues.

Local flight school leaves planes plugged in any time they are not flying from fall to spring. Their thinking is like mentioned, once above condensation temp, it doesn't matter if it stays warm. I use a remote switch, so I can turn on the night before.

I have had two failures. First was many years ago on a night cross country right after a 100 hour on a Grumman Tiger. The belt was not properly tightened. Due to the position of the ammeter, it looked like it was charging, but it was discharging. I turned off all electronic until close and called tower that I might be NORDO after this call. I had enough power, but they still gave me a light signal on final. The other was the #1 on my 252. The only reason I realized was doing the alternator check on runup. The system worked as designed, the other one took the load

1000 miles is doable, depending on winds. Longest I have done in my 252/Encore was just over 1300 miles. 7 hours with a very nice tail wind I have done other 7 hour flights (Monroy tanks). 7 hours at 170 KTAS and just over 10 GPH is 1190 NM and plenty of reserve. I have no problem with being on O2 for that long. I don't even notice it.

WRT the pitch aggressiveness, there are least 3 sets of gain settings.. The original STC gain settings could lead to very aggressive pitch control and "chasing" the airspeed. Around the summer of 2023 Garmin released an SB with a different set of gain settings for aircraft with the aggressive pitch issues. In about September 2023 a revision to the STC used a new set of gain settings. My plane had the issue with the original gain settings. We went to the settings in the SB and that solved the aggressive pitch issue, but I was getting AP disconnects. My shop decided to go back to the STC settings, but found that the latest version of the STC had the new settings.. And those have pretty much solved all my issues.

@jetdriven might be able to help

If you really want it to not come out there is 3M 5200. It is a urethane mastic. Purchase at Home Depot (paint area) or boating supply place. The problem is getting it out of you ever need to. About the only way is to cut the mastic, usually with a fine fire pulled through the joints

I was doing this while talking to the FBO owner. He started laughing. Then he told me about a guy who did that way, started up and tossed the plugs across the ramp. Made the guy mad, ranting and raving. So he stopped putting them on that way. Yeap, a few week later he cooked and engine taking off the plugs still in the cowl.

That could be a mag timing issue.

What changed was that now you build 1 rib, you get % credit for all the ribs. So less hands on required

My first modem was a whopping 4800. Then a 9600, 14.4L, the finally 56K. Got ISDN (128K speed) and that I was in heaven.

Agreed. I went with remote transponder, but put in a PS Engineering 450B audio panel. One reason is the remote audio panel took up a lot of space on the 750 display.

With ADSB the N number is transmitted by the transponder. You can change the N number sent to a call sign, like a Compassion or Fore Flight. In fact you need to do that if using a call sign. If some one is changing back and forth between call sign and N number, they can make a mistake Without ADSB the transponder sends the 4 digit code and the altitude. The ATC computer resolves the 4 digit code to an N number. WHen the controller enters the N number for that code, you can get an error.

The question that can't be answered was how big with the orders that had each one made? We know the latest ones was an order of 25, but unless the one from Maxwell was also a small order, the prices can't be compared directly.

My thoughts exactly. I might like one coffee mug, but even then I have enough mugs to use a different one every day of the month.

What does something like this cost?

This stuff is pretty amazing. https://solderit.com/screw-grab-liquid-0-5-oz-carded-for-stripped-screws-all-screw-heads-sg-94/?srsltid=AfmBOoq_0Vk5QYs72a_0JHBoCY93QqmqbcUMJHtTVJ9eL004HyspxOCq I knew this guy from shows and he could round out Philips so there was almost smooth and a drop of this and the screwdriver would grab.

That is why I want at least 1 GPS and at least one VOR/LOC (preferably with DME) and TWO comms. What I have is 4x GPS (750, 650, G3X internal, iPad), 2x com and 2x VOR/LOC (750 and 650). And I plan on installing the new Garmin DME which gives me both DME for the VOR/LOC and also, once they release the 750 update, DME/DME navigation.

While 3D print file is great for other people.... For one off, I would have hit the nearest plastic shop for a scrap of 3/16" plastic. A Dremel and 15 minutes would have one.