DCarlton

I deleted all of my previous comments to avoid steering folks astray. I used the term epoxy loosely in one of my previous posts. I've been using JB Weld Plastic Bonder. It's a two part adhesive that's apparently urethane based. It's bad ass like most urethane adhesives. I couldn't get it off the plastic if I tried, particularly if I prep properly. If it pops off it'll probably be long after I'm dead (we'll see). Plus it seems to bond plastic to sheet AL fairly well if both surfaces are roughed up. One thing about Mooney owners is they're typically ALL a bunch of smart people. I've got a MSME and 35 years experience and I've taken classes in adhesives. I get all the arguments for bonding ABS with ABS and using fiberglass sheet (and don't disagree) but if you're not willing to use something like Plastic Bonder on a non-structural piece of thin cosmetic plastic, I'm wondering when anyone would ever use it. I've used it because it's convenient and it fills well and can be sanded and drilled easily. I will report back if it ever pops off. Here's the description... PlasticBonder™ is a quick-setting, two-part, urethane adhesive system that provides strong and lasting repairs and works on thermoset, carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, coated metals, concrete & more. PlasticBonder™ has a 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 15 minutes and can be sanded after 30 minutes. With a tensile strength of 3770 PSI, PlasticBonder™ sets to a tan color and cures to a hard, permanent bond.

I'll speak from the perspective of someone that would be interested in a later model J for the right price. As an experienced Mooney owner, I would personally prefer to paint it to taste and overhaul the engine and prop after purchase. I could also take care of the interior myself and choose the colors. Putting in ADSB would make it immediately flyable so that's a plus and it's relatively easy and inexpensive to install (perhaps a GLD82). Since you have an avionics shop, why not install a used GNS-530W and perhaps a G5 and try to keep the cost down. That would be enough to make the plane attractive to me, particularly if it has NDH which seems rare these days. I personally don't have a strong desire for a lot of glass and touch screens. Steam gauges, a nice big 530W, and perhaps a G5 and with a JPI engine monitor is enough. I'd like to know what Premier is asking for their pristine freshly painted J. That probably defines the top of the market.

Aren't those "threaded tabs" riveted to the spar? I may have my nomenclature wrong. Doesn't the front edge of the back seat sit on top of the spar? I've gotta look at a drawing.... always been a bit curious about this area.

Seems like I remember four screws going into the center of the clips that hold the horizontal rod in place (that captures the seat upholstery). It's odd to me that the holes seem to go into the spar (I think) but through the riveted clips. Seems like there would have been a better way to attach carpet.

Exactly. Except I'm keeping my DG for a while too, to drive my Brittain Autopilot that still works fine.

It depends on how much you want to spend. You can get new panel overlays from plane plastics but it takes a lot of creative trimming and shaping to get them to fit the instruments well. I have a '67; your panel actually looks pretty good relatively speaking. I probably wouldn't do much unless you plan to go all in on a new panel.

We're going in circles now but that would be a digital attitude indicator should some company get all the bugs out. I would change out the vacuum AI but keep the TC, DG and other Pitot Static instruments.

Check out the emergency AD status of the Sandia SAI-340A and King KI-300. I'm planning to scale back my vacuum system but keep the EVT Turn Coordinator and associated DG.

The question I continue to ask though, is why do Garmin systems *require* a GPS input, and the Sandia, King and Uavionix AI replacements *do not*. That's something we should all be able to understand. The FAA should be able to explain it if no one else. They reviewed and processed the test and certification. And all of these systems have now apparently experienced some bugs. There shouldn't be any deep design secrets if these units have gone through Govt. certification.

I don't pay a lot of attention to it after so many years; I just fly it; but my '67F tends to track left too. The one thing I do know well, is I have to be very careful with the rudder pedals on roll out. I had it get really twitchy with me once on a gusty crosswind landing. Almost went in the weeds in NM when I first bought the plane.

I'll look in to it. Thanks.

There's one issue with the F. The flaps are hydraulic. You can't let them up in increments. When you move the valve to the up position, the entire flap setting dumps to 0 deg rather quickly. I'd rather have them in the takeoff position if you think you may go missed. Some times I'll go three pumps but rarely full flaps. That' just me though; not saying it's right.

Interesting that it's the J yoke that failed. I think I've had nightmares about my smaller diameter F yoke failing. Wondered if I could control it reaching over to the right side.

First of all, great effort; nice description. Here's a few thoughts. - I'm not crazy about the idea of 9V batteries. More maintenance; more potential for battery leakage and corrosion; just something else to worry about. - Using the voltage as a trigger sounds good if it's reliable across all installations. Using capacitors sounds OK if there are no safety or reliability implications; don't know how big they need to be to drive that motor (or if they're just tripping something that lets a spring do the work). - I like the idea of wiring at the beacon; simplifies installation; avoids another interior rip out; crawling around under the panel, etc. - I don't think I like the idea of using the gear position circuit. Do you happen to know where those switches are relays are? - I haven't looked at the step in a while but I'm not clear on what drives your step down. Is it using an existing spring? My step is sticking on the down stroke; I usually have to pull it down; I'm planning to see if I can clean it up; I have some corrosion under the chrome. If it's using the existing spring, perhaps you could offer parts to remove and replace the spring if needed (and recommendations for cleaning up and lubricating the step guides). - Do you happen to know where the step boot taps the pneumatic vacuum line? Does it go all the way to the pilots side panel? I'm planning to downsize my vacuum system but keep enough of it to drive my Brittain EVT turn coordinator and wing/rudder servos. Would like to take the step out of the vacuum circuit in addition to the AI. - Please don't include a large format touch screen display. :>

What you say is pretty much what seems to work for me. I used more flaps today during very windy conditions and bounced; don't like bouncing and going around!

This encourages me to keep working on mine. Right side is done. Working on pilot's side now. Starting to get concerned is going to be a six month off and on project. Repairing and refurbishing some of the plastics takes a ton of time.

I've flown a 67F for about 15 years; unfortunately operating from a coastal airport where the wind is typically steady right down the runway. During gusty or very windy conditions, I seem to have better success landing with less flaps and a little more speed. Typically nothing more than the takeoff flap setting. Does anyone else adjust their flap settings during high wind conditions? Thanks.

This is not very helpful but I upgraded my generator to an alternator years ago and can't remember why. It wasn't because of a failure. Seems like I had some issue with avionics. Would be interesting to know if that turns out to be your problem.

I have a 67F. My CBs are mounted to the lower part of the panel on the left and right sides. There's nothing to pull. I believe there's buss bar that ties them all together but they're individually mounted to the panel. I'm no expert though. Your F is a later model?

Isn't the question whether King is committed? I have no idea, but it looks like King has rebranded the Avidyne and Sandia products. I'm really curious about that. Not a bad thing but I'm wondering if other companies are doing the design work.

Appreciate the info. Wasn't aware of this process. Thanks.

I called Plane Plastics. They visually checked their inventory. They do have the part but it hasn't been approved and PMA'ed by the FAA. It's called a "UK" part. UK130209-005 and UK130209-006. The only way you can buy it, is to send in your part for reference. Apparently there is some process where they can compare your original part to the one they have in stock. If it matches, you can buy the new part and they will return your original part. If you call, talk to Tonya. I'm considering sending mine in.

The Sandia AI that appears to also be marketed by King experienced an emergency AD. I believe the Sandia unit is off the market. The AV-30 now has reported issues (could be with the DG only; not sure); there are threads discussing AV30 software fixes. I'm keeping my vacuum system now even if I install an electronic AI. I considered the Sandia, then the AV30, and now I'm back to Garmin or perhaps just staying with steam gages for a while. Problem with Garmin is I need to upgrade to a WAAS GPS or add another antenna.

I'll try calling plane plastics. The conversion may be futile though unless they have someone that knows the airplane and the changes. Their web site and drawings are challenging.

I've had a 67 F for 15 years. No trim issues although the plane does like to climb. Next time I'm in a cruise, I'll look and see where it's trimmed. Never ran out of trim margin. I'm curious; if you lift up and down on your tail gently from the bottom below the rudder (under the tail cone), how much does it move? There's a recommended limit on the amount of play.