A64Pilot

If you use fuel tank sealer it’s not unlikely that trying to remove the panel in the future will destroy it, that stuff is tenacious. Best luck I’ve had is using a heat gun and .020 safety wire to saw between the gap to remove it. Now I’m not familiar with those panels, but back in the day for Huey floor panels we used zinc chromate putty, it never hardens fully and it very good at helping prevent corrosion and kept the water out, but as zinc chromate I’m sure causes cancer in California I’m not sure it’s available anymore. ‘We used butyl rubber on boats with good success, you can get it in strips like a thick tape.

First thing you need in my opinion is lights if your going to work in there. There are many to choose from, I think I would look at cheap LED strip lights that plug into each other in a daisy chain and just hang them from the roof.

Mine is just a room sized one, I think they rate them in pints and I think mine is a 60 pint model. When it runs it does do so for hours, on rainy days it runs continuously. I actually bought it for my boat years ago. I keep thinking I’ll buy another and put it on the other side of the hangar, just haven’t done it yet through. I put in a 2 ton mini split and run it off of a humidistat, turns on at 65 RH and off at 60RH, but I live in Florida, won’t cool the hangar much but it does keep it dry in Summer. My hangar is 50 x60 so 3,000 sq ft, but the 60 pint dehumidifier keeps humidity usually in the 50’s in cooler months. It’s built in humidistat isn’t nearly as good as the one for the mini-split so to keep it below 65 RH it turns off in the mid 50’s. Surprised how well it works. ‘I got 65RH off of the internet, looked up aircraft aluminum corrosion and humidity, found a chart that showed above 65RH the curve went up steeply.

He just won’t believe anything in an EV could be good. 99% of the updates are good things, most simple but nice, like the car “bings” now when the stoplight turns green, or turn the turn signal on and a window pops up on the display showing your blind spot, Tesla has seven cameras. Last update added traffic lights now show up on the map and speed cameras too. Awhile ago heavy traffic shows up as red lines on the map, dog mode was added so you can leave the dog in the car and the AC runs, but also the 15” displays shows a happy pooch and tells people you will be back soon and displays interior temp. Blow the horn now and you can select the cameras to record automatically or not, idea being of course many accidents begin with the horn being blown and having video evidence of the other guy at fault may be good to have. Turn signal now you just place it partially down to change lanes, the car watches and knows when you have made the lane change and cancels the turn signal, you only need to partially push it down for ant turn now, also added last update have an accident and the flashers come on and the car uses your phone to call 911. Your phone is the cars key. Oh and last update added a red shade in the blind spot display if a car or other object is there. Autopilot used to be pretty bad. one poster posted it was like a nervous teenager driving and he was right, but it keeps getting better and better. But the biggest thing about a Tesla isn’t that its electric, but that it’s extremely well integrated and as EVERYTHING is software driven as good ideas come up and the car is internet connected they can be pushed out to everyone that want them, you don’t have to install them they all have release notes. An astonishing amount of things are customizable in the touch screen display, you have to sit down and play with one to understand. A Normal car every single little option has its own buttons, knobs, switches scattered about all over the place with icons that I have no idea what they mean, on the tesla display it’s all written out in English or whatever language you speak. Oh, there are multifunction rollers / four way switches on the steering wheel with different functions, like adjusting mirrors or the steering wheel or the cruise control speed or music volume and you can turn on the windshield wipers and dim headlights I think, but as that’s all automatic I just let the car deal with lights and wipers. There is no printed manual, it’s in the computer and many links in the screen will take you to that section of the manual The entire front dash from side to side is one big AC vent, you control it via the touchscreen as an example. Only buttons in a Tesla is the four way flashers. the map lights and the seats have the normal switches on them mounted on the seat, that’s it, everything else is controlled through the screen or verbal, and most things you can just tell the car, for instance tell it your cold and the heat increases by three degrees or of course just tell it turn up the heat by three or however many degrees you want or just tell it set temp to 70 etc. tell it your butts cold and the seat heater comes on. This is the shortest video I could find that shows you the HCAC system and it’s brief, but not at all comprehensive, but this is why you buy a Tesla, the cheap to drive and performance is icing on the cake. Anyone who really is curious as you can rent the things now I think just go rent one for a couple of days and make up your own mind, youncan schedule a test drive, but one hour isn’t enough I don’t think to really tell.

Rented hangar? Obviously just portable stuff, but a good Stereo, dorm fridge for beer and water and a cheap microwave to heat food. Good old fashioned 1970’s type of Stereo, not a box radio, unless of course you don’t like music, and a good recliner. Never had a couch, I want to be able to recline and rest. Depending on how far away your hangar is from home it just could become sort of a place for you to rest and unwind, hence the Stereo and maybe a beer. Warm days you open the door and watch the world. Compressor and battery minder / charger is a must from there depending on ability and need start adding drill press, metal shear, set of rollers et all. If any real work is expected buy a “real” air-compressor not one of those God awful viberators. otherwise get a “silent” air compressor for light work, available everywhere and many under $150. They are honestly as quiet as a sewing machine, oil less etc. I just can’t stand the noise one of the viberators make, when one that essentially just hums works just as good. Good standing tool box to store tools, and in my neck of the woods a good de-humidifier. Keep the humidity low in a hangar and there is no corrosion, even your tools, vise and drill press table etc. won’t have any rust. I suspect up North one will be even more useful as a dehumidifier is a very efficient way to add a slight amount of heat in a hangar, of course all energy used by one is dispersed as heat like anything else, it’s enough to be noticeable, not real heat but enough to be noticed. Thus guy rambles for 5 min before actually turning the thing on, so skip the first 5 min to hear it run, I chose tge Harbor Freight one as Inassumed it’s the cheapest, but honestly most seem to be the same compressor with different bling and stickers.

It really depends greatly on who you get, FSDO wise some years ago the FAA let all the inspectors know they they can individually be held liable for their actions that they personally could be sued. I have no idea how realistic that is but I don’t believe it was coincidental that was when the No more field approval policies came into effect. There are still field approvals, but 99% of them come from an inspector that you have known for years and have a history with. Basically an inspector has nothing to gain by granting a field approval, and nothing to lose by not, excepting lessening their work load. Most often to get what you want means hiring a DER as they accept liability and it lets the FAA inspector off of the hook/ I don’t know who issues STC’s but I have seen ATL FSDO rescind one, I would think ACO would issue them as they are the keepers of the TCDS etc. The Who’s on first has always been sort of vague with the FAA

We lived aboard a sailboat for three years cruising, not it a Marina except hurricane season. Most everything that makes it cruising and not camping relies on your battery bank, as they cost a LOT of money and improper care will kill a bank every year you get smart on their care and feeding. I had 1,000W of solar panels and that wasn’t enough to keep the bank full so I had a 165 amp alternator on a serpentine belt because you can’t pull that kind of amperage from a V belt, it will slip, two generators and a 125 amp inverter / charger and a standalone 60 amp charger, anytime an engine was running I was harvesting as much energy as I could to charge that bank and keep it healthy, as well as of course what I could get from Solar. Wind generators are mostly a waste of time, it takes a LOT of wind to make significant power and if the wind is that strong your in a protected anchorage hiding from it. So full time cruisers become battery smart out of necessity. Lithium is the Holy Grail for off grid, lightweight, doesn’t suffer from partial SOC cycling in fact you really never want to fully charge, lasts a LOT longer as in years longer and it can take just about as much charge you can throw at it, you can charge in an hour or two or less where AGM takes 5 hours no matter how big the charger is and you don’t have 5 hours of good Solar so no matter how many panels unless grossly oversized you can’t fully recharge a lead battery by Solar alone and if you don’t fully recharge the bank begins to die from sulphation. If your curious as to how fast is it possible to charge an AGM battery this article explains it, and the test battery is a Lifeline which is essentially identical to our aircraft Concorde batteries, both made by Concorde. https://marinehowto.com/how-fast-can-an-agm-battery-be-charged/ Anyway if we were still on the boat I’d certainly have a LifePo4 bank now and be much happier, but the Pandemic and my knees needing replacements, plus 2% Mortgage rates made ending cruising and buying a house make more sense.

On my J there are adjustable rods that are connected to the flaps themselves, break the lock nut loose, Then pull the spring loaded end up and it disconnects from the ball on the flap. . Where you are in Winter I’d adjust them fully closed. Surely your issue isn’t overheating, but getting warm enough. By adjusting the cable I’m afraid you wouldn’t adjust end points but would bind the cable when the arm it attaches to runs out of travel. From memory my book allows .25 “ to 1/2 “ when fully closed but I don’t think it takes cold Wisconsin Wx into account. In Summer in Florida I adjust mine to the 1/2” point, not for cooling when fully closed but for more opening when fully open, that is about when the flaps themselves hit as far as they can open On edit, of course do a test flt before the long trip to ensure it doesn’t get too warm, I don’t think it would but best to do a test flt to make sure

In my many years of troubleshooting electrical stuff, it’s most often the ground, I don’t know why but it is, and very few people look at the grounds, they check voltage and assume wiring is good. Your lucky your voltage meter wasn’t checking battery voltage because battery voltage wasn’t dropping, system voltage of course was. But a bad or loose ground can cause other pain as the system may find another electrical path. Many years ago the Chrysler K cars were eating up CV joints, Replaced under warranty and later failed again, Chrysler was stumped, driveshaft alignment was perfect nothing could be found, then research found that it was only on cars built in one plant and on one shift. Further digging found out that one person doing the engine install wasn’t tightening the frame side of the engine ground wire, thought it was done in a different place on the line, since the ground wire was loose the engine was grounding through the driveshafts and starting current was burning spots on the bearings and of course they eventually failed.

I’d call Concorde, also I believe AC Spruce has a Concorde STC listing on their website. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/concordeappchart.php?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-P-rBhBEEiwAQEXhH_3Qp_V740GqN-CnrbZ18IrWwTAzywMla0A2rhDAxYyAHDSChSXAsBoCqD4QAvD_BwE https://www.concordebattery.com/knowledge-base/application-replacement-guides/aircraft-application-guide.html Mooney seems to be covered under identicality, which is easier than an STC, just quote that in the replacement entry

If the battery called out by the TCDS like for my C-140 for instance no longer exists, using the AC for “antique” aircraft which all small aircraft that aren’t FAR 23 are, your allowed to pick an FAA PMA battery that meets the specs as in reserve time and starting amps, if more than 1 lb different you have to recompute W&B of course. But Concorde is good at obtaining STC’s, I think they cover my 46 C-140 via an STC. I think my TCDS didn’t call out a brand name or group size, just an AH rating I think, but a battery that meets those specs doesn’t exist, I believe the Concorde blows those specs out of the water though. In other words Concorde has most covered but if you have a rare antique the AC covers you. However many counties don’t accept US STC’s anymore and probably not FAA AC’s so I don’t know what they do.

Now I’m a huge fan of Lithium batteries and in particular LifePo4, AKA LFP, and Lithium Iron, different names, same battery However a few things should be noted about starter batteries, first they aren’t really cycled, starting current is large but it’s such a short time that very few AH are used so we only really cycle a battery once a year at the cap check. Secondly the 50% discharge is an arbitrary point that was chosen as a point for lead deep cycle batteries that are cycled daily like the bank I had on my sailboat, the lower you pull a lead acid battery down the fewer cycles you will get out of it, if you graph cycle life it’s not a cliff at 50% , 50% was just chosen as a balance between cycle life, bank cost and weight. As we don’t cycle batteries cycle life is sort of irrelevant, if we care for our batteries they don’t cycle out, they die of old age and in nearly perfect conditions that can be a long time. In truth no body knows how long Lithium chemistries will last, every time you try to find out for instance how long an EV battery will last you see cycle life quoted, then an estimated yearly number of cycles divided by cycle life and often 20 years is thrown around, but all batteries will die of age eventually and will a Lithium chemistry battery last 20 years? We don’t know yet. Lithium chemistries change often, different things are added to increase capacity, that’s called doping and ever time it’s done the how long will it last in years becomes an unknown, again. If I flew IFR there is no way I’d consider a battery with less AH available, I can’t imagine being in the clouds without a functioning electrical system, that’s often a death sentence, and I can’t imagine the FAA let that slide, it has to be a mistake, surely the battery has at least as much reserve capacity of the lead acid it replaces? I just replaced four 85 lbs each Trojan 150 AH batteries in my golf cart with four 25 lb 100 AH LifePo4 batteries and so far couldn’t be happier, even though I lost 50 AH in theory I didn’t lose any based on you can cycle a LFP battery deeper with less detrimental effect than lead. I lost 240 lbs though and you can really tell the weight in performance, the LFP charges to much higher voltage and less voltage sag under load really makes a huge difference in the cart. The Trojan’s if you shop around can be had for about $1,200, the LifePo4 are coming down a lot, now only $959. I don’t know why exactly but LifePo4 batteries are decreasing in price hugely. I paid $1200 in Sept, that’s how much they are coming down in price, last year they were probably $2,000. LFP batteries were invented in Tx years ago in Austin I think, but somehow the Chineses ended up with the patent or something and only they could manufacture them, but I think recently that has changed. So I assume they are dumping batteries to prevent competition? But anyway LifePo4 batteries have dropped in price hugely to being less than a quality lead battery now. This I cut n pasted from a Solar forum and jives with my memory “I loved Wills Rant video but if I remember correctly he made a statement that LiFePO4 batteries were created in China and that they are now making their own Technology. I am not calling out Will, I was just surprised when he said that because in 36 years of doing EE design work I have seen almost ZERO items that have been created in China. Their technological system does not even seem to rely on invention but almost completely on acquisition of inventions then reverse engineering and adaptation into new products. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/the-chinese-did-not-invent-lithium-iron-phosphate-batteries.26000/ “LiFePO4 was of course an offshoot of John Goodenough's Lithium Ion design but the Iron Phosphate branch was created by University Of Texas-Austin plus MIT seems to also have some involvement along with the University of Montreal and CNRS.”

A LOT of nations enforce TBO, I think more do than don’t the US is unusual in not enforcing TBO.

I think that’s most of the backlog, apparently during the pandemic a whole boat load of people ordered kits Instead of not selling kits due to being sold out Van’s took the option of outsourcing manufacturing and didn’t do the due diligence that they should have, so a whole bunch of people have kits that they shouldn’t complete. I think however many will be completed and likely sold if they can. But many won’t and I can only imagine that Lycoming has been getting scads of canceled orders, I just hope Lycoming doesn’t need these orders to survive, just hope Van’s doesn’t take Lycoming with them. Its normal for engine manufacturers to ship to OEM manufacturers not expecting payment for three months or more, I wonder how many engines Van’s had that weren’t paid for when they filed?

You know this got me thinking, when I road raced motorcycles I would buy 105 Octane unleaded race gas at the track. I was just racing an old Suzuki GS-500 in clubman class but I had put it on a dyno and bumped timing until I got the most HP I could at 1000 RPM less than redline, no idea what it was and the 105 was just insurance. You can get up to 108 Octane UNLEADED race gas, to go higher requires lead Back when I was drag racing Z-1 turbos we ran what was called “Fast Gas” and I remember hearing 158 Octane, but that can’t be true can it?

According to Google its Naptha, and its Octane is 50ish. What I saw was between 53-57. It seems Naptha is one of the first things to come off in the distillation process. I think it is very clean burning and Octane for stove and lantern fuel is irrelevant but you want hot which alcohol is not and clean burning so the generator doesn’t clog. All my old Coleman stuff has the silver painted tanks which means it’s OK for unleaded car gas but I always burned camp fuel. I have a few micro stoves from my Army days that are multi fuel and will burn kerosene so therefore Jet fuel for whatever that’s worth, kerosene doesn’t burn nearly as clean and sort of stinks too. Jet-A has an Octane of around 15, and if you mis fuel with that it will of course detonate your engine to death

Did a little Googling, car gas Octane in the 60’s averaged about 94 for Regular and as high as 104 for Premium. Down in my neck of the woods I think Sunoco had the highest Octane in their Ethyl. Called that of course from TetraEthyl lead. If I recall correctly the pump had a dial on it that you could dial up the Octane, I don’t know how that worked, maybe blended two fuels?

We used to run Amaco white gas in Stoves and lanterns when I was a kid, also in the Mercury 100 HP “Tower of Power” outboard, an inline 6 cyl with I swear 6 carburators. Those that remember it remember that it was a water clear unleaded 100+ Octane fuel, unleaded. ‘How did they do that back then?

I can’t imagine how that happened as of course they are different trucks etc. 100LL has I’m sure orders of magnitude more detonation resistance than car gas, yet every now and again someone detonated a cylinder to death burning 100 LL While I believe you can run off of car gas, I believe special attention and better than factory instrumentation is needed and very possibly some performance reductions, and even then you likely don’t have as much safety margin. I ran out of gas in my Jeep once, had a gallon of Coleman fuel, dumped that in the tank. Whatever that stuff is, Naptha maybe worked but must have had an Octane rating of about 10, the Jeep rattled badly with just about any load on it. Mazda has developed a gasoline / spark ignition Diesel. I would assume it could run very high compression on very low Octane fuel?

Autofuel has been run pretty much forever in aircraft, even way back before Unleaded and before STC’s. If your in the Boonies and Avgas wasn’t available and you had to have the Supercub to fly in this Winters meat supply, you burned what there was and then upon discovering nothing happened you may have kept burning it because of the price difference. But at least since the 70’s when the Autofuel STC’s came into existence many adopted its use for their C-140’s etc which require zero modification for it and the price for the STC if you wanted to be a good guy and legal was $1 a HP, so $85. There are posts on the C-140 website with numbers that show that the difference in price between the two will pay for an engine overhaul. So I think it’s been well established that at least for the Conti’s that can burn Autofuel that they can do so safely. Does that mean that all lead free fuel are good? Who knows. To be completely honest there are a not small number of guys that fly Experimental that use Autogas and a good grade of Synthetic auto oil without issue. Do I think that’s a good idea? No, because Auto oil isn’t ashless, I think it’s not hurting them because their engines burn little oil, what if they burnt a half a qt an hour? I think carbon deposits would cause a serious problem myself. Only reason I bring that up is to try to show that a limited trial doesn’t really tell you if something will work in the fleet. Your trial needs to include badly worn but airworthy engines and ones tgat sit for long times etc. Embry Riddle fleet isn’t even close to the average use to say nothing of it doesn’t get cold in Daytona Fl etc. But in my opinion Auto fuel has been used for so long by so many it’s gone way beyond a limited trial, and it’s been used in just about every environmental condition from the frozen tundra to deserts etc and for decades. I usually burn auto fuel in my C-140 but often burn 100LL too because filling the 140 from 5 gl cans is a PIA, while I have a 285 gl tank of 100LL with a pump etc in my hangar, it’s just too easy to pull the hose out and fill with LL. If I had an auto gas tank then I would never burn LL in it.

Sigh, you just aren’t going to see the truth no matter what. It’s not a bug that needed fixing, it’s simply people are stupid and you can’t fix stupid. Despite a ridiculous amount of warnings that your still the driver and autopilot is just a driving aid like cruise control and the requirement for you to hold the steering wheel, idiots engage it and get absorbed in their phones or actually nod off while on autopilot, and apparently there have been crashes by these idiots, idiot proof isn’t obtainable, there will always be a bigger idiot. Let a neighbor drive the car, his immediate thought upon engaging Autopilot was could I defeat its monitoring by hanging a sock filled with quarters on the steering wheel, he is a bigger idiot apparently. For the majority of people who aren’t stupid and understand it’s limitations and continue to pay attention it’s great, and statistically a Tesla on Autopilot has fewer accidents than one not on autopilot, look it up, it’s easy. There are I believe roughly 5 Million Tesla’s driving around, 200 hundred crashes a year out of 5 Million isn’t a bad number I don’t think. I think this years production may be close to two Million in just 2023? Musk said years ago that Full Self Driving would stay in Beta until there was conclusive proof that it was at least ten times safer than the person driving https://www.notateslaapp.com/news/1370/tesla-reveals-fsd-beta-accident-rate-and-compares-it-to-autopilot-and-national-average https://www.notateslaapp.com/news/1260/tesla-s-autopilot-is-the-safest-driver-on-the-road You can skew statistics of course by applying different filters until you get what you want but the above stats are raw unfiltered data. I mean Oh my God in the last four years there have been almost 800 crashes with Autopilot on, something must be done. How many thousands of crashes were there in the last four years without Autopilot on? Obviously Tesla vehicles with Autopilot on have more accidents than other makes with advanced driving features, because first Autopilot can be used anywhere so it’s used much more often where GM’s for instance can only be used on mapped highways, but also there are likely at least ten times the number of Teslas on autopilot, because every Tesla has it standard where only a fraction of Fords and GM’s do. The Recall isn’t to fix the software, it’s an attempt to stop stupid people from being stupid, which will fail, you can’t fix stupid, the crashes will continue or I think increase, just due to the number of cars increasing if nothing else. So far as being a Beta tester, I’m fine with it, Tesla openly and freely admits that it’s in Beta, it’s actually in the software name, in capital letters. I think I had to acknowledge its Beta status in order to enable it back when I did three years ago. If you don’t like Autopilot, don’t use it. It’s not automatic or anything it has to be engaged and every time there is a warning that you have to stay alert and be prepared to take over at any time is displayed etc. I use mine on every drive, the car drives itself more than I do, and yes every now and again out of the blue it will try to do something stupid and you have to take over which is as simple as touching the brake or turning the steering wheel. So yes if I was nodding off or absorbed in Tik Tok or whatever I would have been in an accident. Personally I don’t think we will ever see Full Self Driving, I think it’s just too complex a problem to solve that drivers will always have to be in the loop. Driving, especially city and driving in the Suburbs is orders of magnitude more complex that making an airplane that can takeoff, fly to a destination and land itself. Only idiots completely surrender control to a piece of software, especially after being warned numerous times not to. But it seems out of five million cars at least 200 a year do. Of course I’m sure the number is much higher, but most wake up in time and save the car before the crash, i’d expect it’s way more than 10 to 1, there has to be a great many near misses for each crash. Just look on any Social Media where there are posts of sleeping drivers, people having sex, and people using Autopilot so they can drive when they are too drunk to walk. I’m actually astonished there aren’t more crashes. I would expect that the number of crashes will increase, because the increased production and sales rate year to year, and as crazy as this sounds but I bet the better Autopilot becomes the crashes will increase, not go down. Why? because the idiots will be more likely to ignore the warnings that’s why. Autopilot on especially country back roads used to be terrible, “Phantom braking” where for no apparent reason it would hit the brakes and couldn’t handle anything but gentle curves and if you let it would sometimes not slow down for a tight turn head down posting on Social Media while the car drives into a tight turn at 45 MPH would almost guarantee a crash. Due to the updates it’s orders of magnitude better, seemingly good enough for the idiots to surrender complete control to it. One of my hero’s once said “trust but verify” Well trust but verify any Autopilot and it’s more likely you won’t crash. You’re one of the people that argued that seat belts are unsafe, it’s safer in an accident to be thrown free of the vehicle, you just won’t accept that technology will make our lives better. I think your hate on EV’s in general and Tesla specifically funny. Three years into owning the thing and I’d certainly buy it again, in fact I haven’t met a Tesla owner yet that wouldn’t but I’m certain that many wouldn’t because it didn’t meet their needs or perhaps they expected a magic full self driving car and it’s not. You can drag a horse to water but you can’t make it drink. Go to Youtube, Search sleeping Tesla driver, they’re a bunch of hits including many stops by cops. ‘Heck this was seven years ago, you can’t fix stupid.

My Tesla is undergoing the terrible dreaded recall as we speak, it’s in the garage downloading the latest update that has the recall in it, takes about 15 min and you can’t drive the car for 15 min until it’s complete and reboots. Yes you can reboot the car. This update is the holiday update we get every year that contains several “presents” from Elon, therefore it’s bigger than the usual update, most of the time updates are just enhancements and bug fixes, similar I guess to the ones my Ipad gets. It’s imbedded in an update, for those curious of what these updates include I’ve attached a link that contains the release notes of this particular update. It’s not the official Tesla website, it includes a previous update too, current one is 2023.44.30.1, this update is bigger than most, most updates don’t contain as many features. https://www.notateslaapp.com/software-updates/version/2023.44.30.1/release-notes https://www.notateslaapp.com/news/1815/new-features-announced-in-teslas-holiday-update-new-parking-visualizations-custom-locking-sounds-and-more

Yes alcohol has high octane, (over 110) why a properly designed E85 engine would be higher compression, that helps with the lower energy density of the alcohol, but then it couldn’t burn regular gas. Flex fuel engines are at best a kludge, good for virtue signaling I guess but not much else. I think the auto manufacturers got a tax break But Gasahol and now E10 and E15 isn’t any higher Octane than gas without it, presumably when they add the alcohol they use cheaper lower octane fuel and end up the same, presumably the profit margin of E10 is higher. I’m not abdicating burning car gas in aircraft that aren’t STC’d for it, merely pointing out it’s been done before and is in fact done very widely by the Experimental guys that can burn whatever they like. Years ago I searched the NTSB database looking for accidents that were caused by alcohol in the autogas. I figured there would be several, because no one I knew tested for it even though the test is easy. I couldn’t find any, doesn’t mean there aren’t but if there are I couldn’t find any, this was about 15 years ago. I doubt ethanol will eat up fuel tank sealer, but it could. It has eaten up things I didn’t expect like boat fiberglass fuel tanks for instance.

It’s even simpler than adding Nitrous as there only needs to be one injector so yes it would be very easy to add an injector plate under a carburetor. But you may not need it, often carbs go with lower compression engine that have a car gas STC available, sometimes the STC doesn’t require any modification, sometimes it may require an additional fuel pump or maybe additional cooling vents in the cowling. A carbureted Maule for instance requires both. ADI for GA aircraft was brought back by Peterson of the Autogas STC fame over 40 years ago, but it never caught on, not because it doesn’t work, it does and is safe but because the price difference just wasn’t enough to get people excited. When 100LL goes away and if the Gami fuel is expensive, I think there will be a renewed interest. So much so that if I were younger I’d seek them out and invest the minute 100LL goes away, because I think it will sell, because I’d bet lunch that the Gami fuel is going to be much more expensive and the airplanes that require it will take a huge hit in value too. I realize the Gami fuel is nothing more than a proprietary blend of existing “stuff” and I busting the recipe would be easy just by varying something a little, but the STC will prevent competition, that’s the value of the STC to keep someone from making a nearly identical mix with just enough difference to be “different” I’ve posted this before, it’s not vaporware, it exists there have been STC’s for decades, it’s not even difficult. https://www.avweb.com/features/the-return-of-anti-detonation-water-injection-adi/ https://www.aviationconsumer.com/uncategorized/airplains-inpulse-adi-mogas-for-big-engines/

A College in Tennessee ran a C-310 in the 70’s on what was then called Gasahol for quite a long time, only ran one on it with no adverse effects. I know because a good friend a Dr Ralph Kimberlin was in the program. However we have to be careful with comparing Octane, the way car gas is rated is completely different than the way Aircraft fuel is rated, the two numbers that were the standard until 100 LL, the first was in “Aviation lean”, the second higher number was in “Aviation rich” So I don’t know if there is a correlation or not and if there is, what it is. Other than knowing what it was called I don’t know the specifics of exactly what lean and rich meant exactly other than the obvious that you have a much greater margin in rich, nor do I know why 100LL has only one number. A little tough to follow but this fellow knows a lot more than I do. https://generalaviationnews.com/2017/02/20/the-difficulty-in-determining-rich-and-lean-ratings/ Sounds to me like 93 car gas might be similar to a lean rated 89 Octane Avgas. I know someone that ran car gas in his Maule a few times, that had a high compression fuel injected IO-540, one side car gas the other Avgas, takeoffs, climbs and landings on Avgas, only issue he had was hot starts, the car gas would vapor lock much worse than the Avgas would if he shut down when running the car gas. I’m sure the 310 was run richer than normal likely on car gas and assume maybe timing retarded and or restricted MP pressure, but don’t know, just know it was done. From what I saw there was no cyl head temp difference and the Maule was set to stock timing, but when on car gas restricted to 25” MP.