PT20J

Sounds reasonable. Now, is that a minor or major alteration? i have a 1994 J with 1300 hrs. on it that has never had a problem. (Now I’ve probably jinxed it). Previous ‘78 J had 1600 hrs. without a problem. Wonder why some do and some don’t.

I did’t change the prop governor line. It was an expensive long-lead part from Lycoming and Lycoming. I discussed with several MSCs that had installed A3B6s and all said to just deform the standard line slightly to clear the engine mount, which is what we did. Skip

Here's the Mooney SI on the ignition switch modification. The Bendix switches come with a link. I could not find a part number for it I couldn't find any so I just made up a jumper wire as you suggest. sim20-59a.pdf Skip

You can find forged eye bolts at most large hardware stores that will fit. I used to think Mooney eyebolts were special, but others here convinced me otherwise. A lot of mechanics make their own jack points by taking the appropriate size bolt and rounding the edges of the head with a grinder. Back it up with a large flat washer when installing.

If it has been removed, reinstall the link on the ignition switch to ground out the right mag during start. The impulse coupling retards both mags on a D3000, but your new Slicks will come with an impulse coupling on the left mag. only. Skip

The governor should be set for 2700 rpm. The low pitch stops (at least for McCauleys) should be set slightly less than that, so static rpm is a bit less than 2700. Skip

Get 2 rubber tie down straps with the large S hooks on the ends. Hook one end around a pushrod shroud tube and drape over the top of the crankcase and hook the opposite end in a lower cowling camloc socket. Do the same for the other side. Unfasten all the lower cowl camlocs. The cowl is now supported by the straps. Kneel in front and place one hand under the cowl to support it and remove the strap with the other hand. Then reverse the process for the second strap. Then lower the cowl and remove from the front. Reverse the process to reinstall. Skip

There’s no other fuse. Did it pass self test? Does the flight director work?

Well Ellis should know. Maybe it’s better to let it all drain out and just start over. Good to replace the fluid every 5 years or so anyway. Mine was heat discolored for about 8 oz worth at the calipers even though it was changed 2 years ago by DMax. Skip

Anyone ever thought to ask Mooney how they do it at the factory? There must be some trick (or is the labor involved the reason new ones are so expensive?)

Warning light on steadily and tripped breaker means the over voltage relay tripped. Probably a VR problem. Would have been best to do some troubleshooting first. I’d still check all the wiring between VR and alternator. Skip

I believe Champion has fixed the resistor problem with a new design more like Tempest’s. I believe Tempest has fixed the fine wire center electrode problem. Mechanics are frequently by nature risk adverse (not necessarily a bad thing) and once bitten, are twice shy in my experience. Skip

Curious how often you have to regap your fine wires? Do you use a gapping tool or just small needle nose pliers as Tempest recommends? Any problems breaking electrodes when gapping? Skip

Both airplanes are appropriately certificated though one design is decades newer than the other. I’ve got time in both. Neither is better or worse; they’re just different. Mooney owners seem happy with their purchase and Cirrus owners seem happy with theirs. Anyone unhappy is free to switch. Can’t we just leave it at that? Skip

Good point. The service manual no longer mentions that VR, but I remember having to replace the power transistors in it years ago when I had a ‘78. Also remember it was a bear to get in and out!

Well, actually, the wing drain is for the pitot, and the tail drain is for the static line. Since the pitot line only goes to the airspeed indicator, symptoms don’t point to a problem there. Nonetheless, it’s good to check them both during preflight. Skip

The warning annunciator blinks for low voltage and illuminates continuously for an over voltage. If there is an over voltage, the relay in the regulator trips the alternator field breaker. Sounds like something is causing an over voltage at the regulator. Skip

Many find the Lycoming IO-360s run pretty well LOP on the stock injectors. You might want to do a GAMI spread to see what you’ve got. GAMIjectors may not make enough difference to be worth it. They best help the big Continentals with that horrible log runner induction system. There is really no advantage to running leaner than the minimum BSFC mixture. Skip

Fine wire electrodes are smaller and more exposed than massives where the spark can occur deeper down in the plug and this is the theory why they may perform better with weak mixture strengths like LOP and starting. What I would find interesting is a comparison of fine wires and BY massives. Anyone tried both in the same engine? Skip

The M20J IPC lists paint colors. But, I’d take the access panel off the tail to get a color match in case of fading.

The only reason for advancing the prop control is to have full power available for a go around. So, any point before going around is OK. Pick a low workload time. To avoid rpm surges and noise, it’s best to push the prop control forward when the prop is out of the governing range and against the low pitch stops. This is a function of throttle setting and airspeed. A little experimenting will determine this. If you are out of the governing range, it doesn’t matter how fast you push the control forward since it doesn’t have any effect on the prop. It’s generally not a good idea to screw vernier controls all the way into the stop as you can put the cable in compression. Skip

Base timing on an IO-360 would be 20 or 25 degrees BTDC per the data plate. According to Surefly specs, it can advance up to 38 degrees BTDC. Skip

According to the Surefly specs, it draws half an amp. That’s 22 hours with an 11 AH battery (OK, it’s not quite that simple and there are other loads, but the point is it’S not much of an electrical load). Skip

My ‘94 J has an electronic tone generator and an overhead speaker for gear and stall warning. The only sonalert is for the autopilot disconnect. Skip

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