65MooneyPilot

Follow the wire and see what it is connected to.

I do not recommend ever jumping your plane like a car. My neighbor recently tried to jump his plane and fried the alternator. Another friend of mine had his plane upgraded at the avionics shop and when he went to pick it up every piece of equipment that had the power on was fried including the brand new GPS they just installed. We are sure it was a power supply problem.

The landing gear system is pretty straight forward. There are two microswitches and the horn in the system. One switch in the down lock fixture in the instrument panel and the other is mounted on the throttle cable. For the horn to receive power the gear handle must be out of the up position and the throttle must be in the idle position. So when you pulled the throttle back and no horn sounded was the yellow light on? This lets you know if the first switch is working. If the yellow light is on then you can move down to the throttle switch. If that switch is working (you can check for voltage with volt meter power on or ohm meter power off) then go to the horn and check for voltage with power on. If voltage at horn with no sound then the horn needs to be fixed or replaced. When you retracted the gear did the lights go from green to yellow and back to green for landing? Note if the yellow light is burned out the horn will still sound. The fuel pump circuit is very simple. The power from the left bus powers the fuel pump through a circuit breaker switch. If the pump froze up the switch will turn off. I am a little concerned the switch did not work correctly and allowed the wire to get to much current. Closely inspect the wiring in that circuit and a good look at all the wiring to see if you can see burnt insulation. Good luck, hope this helps you.

Here is your wiring diagram. If you go to the download section you will find the service manual and the legend that goes with it. It includes original equipment part numbers. This screen shot does not expand very well. Download the manual.

The fuel pump and gear warning are separate circuits. The fuel pump switch is also the circuit breaker. You should have a circuit breaker labeled gear warning. This circuit goes thru two switches to power the horn. The fuel pump and wiring will have to be closely inspected and trouble shot because you smelled electrical smoke. What is your planes S/N? In the service manual there are the wiring diagrams for the plane.

I personally don’t get wrapped around the axle about the tire pressure unless it is below the book value. I personally put in a few extra psi because tire pressures change with outside air temp. Using nitrogen is way better but I am not. As far as nose wheel shimmy’s go a lot of owners suspect loose steering for a shimmy problem. In my case my nose wheel gear was severely worn out. I jacked up the plane and I could move the whole nose gear vertically a half inch. I took it off and sent it in to LASAR and they sent me an upgraded rebuilt one. After installing it, it was like having a new plane. Super smooth taxiing, taking off or landing.

Mooney models: C,D,E are 30 PSI All wheels. F models 30 psi mains 49 psi nose wheel. These are pre 1966 Mooneys. As always check the manual for your Mooney.

I don’t know if your C has adjustable cowl flaps or not but if it does make sure they are opening the proper amount to get that good differential pressure.

Don’t forget to weld the nut onto the clamp as some of the really sharp people did. You will be glad you did when you install the seatbelt.

950086_1 APU plug.pdf try this file, If it doesn’t work PM me and I will send it to you. I just modified my Mooney and instead of installing the APU as they call it I installed the battery minder.

LASAR’s website for parts in stock is not always correct. Sometimes it says no stock and when you call they are in stock. Good luck

5 years ago I installed LASAR mod 148 for the steering horn mod. The website says they are not available. To bad because it was another option. Once you install that mod you can’t go back.

My ACK04 had 5 beeps on the test so I had to send it in and they replaced the RF chip in it. You will probably have to send it in.

I am feeling your pain but any new engine is above 50k. Then you have to adapt it to the plane. Engine mount, hoses, cowling,electrical, and instruments to name a few items. In fact the experimental world is not any cheaper except the parts are a little less. If it turns out to be a reliable,safe, and less maintenance it would be worth it long term.

I know of a company that just bought a C model and they are just starting to work on it. It most likely will happen if they keep going. Giving up 90 lbs for me is not a big deal but of course everyone will have to make that decision.

I think if I was going to change my engine and had a C,D,E, or F model, I would seriously consider switching to a Delta Hawk engine. It is only 180hp but being a turbo diesel you should get 180hp at all altitudes. Then you don’t have to worry about fuel again until they outlaw jet fuel. I know there are maintenance teams working on an STC for the conversion now. As far as the UL conversion, it won’t be perfect but in the 10 year conversion window we will overcome the issues that come up.

Yes, salvage yard would be the path. Thanks I am hoping to get the DWG for the install. I am looking into it.

I am a seatbelt guy myself also.

I agree you should go electronic instruments where it makes since. I was just talking to Dan at LASAR yesterday and the fasteners for the aft avionics and battery panel are available. I need to change mine also. After 59 years the screwdriver slots are almost completely worn out. Dan told me he will be retiring soon and as of yesterday no one is in line to take his place. It will be a true challenge when he is gone.

That is awesome. Thanks My Manual goes to 67.

In the IPC I have it is not in there. If you could send me a copy of that page I would appreciate it. Thanks

I was thinking that Mooney offered the external power in later models so this is great info. I suppose I will just have to find the factory drawing and the parts to install.

So you make the wires long enough to set it off to the side while taking the battery out. Wondering if anyone has a picture to look at. It would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know of an STC for external power for an E model. I looked at the K model IPC and it looks like it attaches to the Battery box lid. Does that mean you have to disconnect it to remove the main battery? Thanks