65MooneyPilot

I don’t have a G1000 so it is a pain for me. I would have to go into the maintenance setup every time. Sounds like the G1000 can be setup like transport category airplanes. If you do change the setup, which looks easy, you just have to add checking it every time during your preflight. It should retain the last flight ID until you change it so when you complete the Angel flight you just put the “N” number back in. In the US, I have never been questioned about having the wrong flight ID entered in, but in Europe they will tell you it’s wrong right after departure.

I don’t know about Angel flights but changing your ADSB flight ID is a pain. Why do you need to change it? If it is just for a call sign, you can put it in the remarks section of the flight plan and all the controllers will see it. In the airline world when you initialize the FMS you put in the flight number and in some of the 737, 757’s I flew the flight number went into the transponder.

There is a lot to think about on these upgrades. We have all put a lot of thought into our panels. There is all kinds of options. My question is would your A&P be interested in installing your panel and if you are mechanically inclined you could help? Here is why, G5’s, GPS175 and most radios can be installed by A&P/IA’s. Find a 6 pack panel for the pilot side, install the G5’s, GPS 175, GAD29D, GAD13, GMU 11, temp prob, NAV COM with Glide slope receiver(Trig for instance) Get an Approach Systems Hub and order all the wiring harness from them . All A&P capable installs. It’s a lot of work but it may save some money and you will be autopilot ready if you want to make that step. Actually all the avionics can be purchased from Approach Systems. This would be a lot less if your A&P had a reasonable rate and you were able to help. Hammdo’s panel the left side would definitely work for you. Your instruments are currently all over the place in your panel and I highly recommend before instrument training you rearrange the instruments. I am not sure how the VOR Indicator made it over to the right side of the panel. Good luck, any questions you can pm me. This is my latest second G5 upgrade. I went in small increments to get this far.

I removed the bolt on the right side and found out it was in fact a -17A bolt with two light washers installed. I used a bore scope to look up inside and it still has most of the zinc chromate primer in it. I ordered the -17A bolts and they should be here this week.

Thank you for answering my question. I knew it was technical and only a fellow mechanic that has done the inspection could answer it. I am still waiting for the bolts to be delivered before I start.

I have a question about step 14 where it says to remove AN7H-17A and run a magnet inside the tube. The parts manual in figure 2 index 2 says that bolt is an AN7H-16A. Somehow it has turned into a -17A bolt. Also is the nut/ thread for that bolt inside the tube? If so, is it possible the thread is corroded and has this been a problem during this inspection? Thanks

Back in the day LASAR used to add them. Getting a preflown part is probably easier.

Here are a few pictures in the previous post, two of them I saved from the Mooney space pages and the other two are my plane during install. In my limited experience if it passes the interference test it should calibrate.

I have some basic questions since I just installed one in my plane. What was the magnetometer interference test score? I am thinking it must have passed. Is the Gmu11 at or close to the wing sheet metal splice but not passed the aileron control tube and not close to the gear. Is the ramp where they are trying to calibrate it is clean underneath, no rebar in concrete. Also no water or fuel lines either. We have had this discussion before on what is underneath the ramp. Thanks, let us know

Jaylw314, LASAR in Prineville Oregon is looking for customers. I get emails from them a lot. Good luck I do envision a time when the only GA left will be experimental. IA not required and owners can do a lot of the work.

Did you just remove any instruments and change where the gauge is reading from? I just removed my last vacuum gyro indicator and mine is doing the same thing. It lost its snuber orifice used to dampen the indicator. I am going to have to figure how to put one back in the system. If not go with 201MKTURBO.

I remember when SWA did not let their pilots use VNAV because the older planes did not have it. The button was removed but the pilots that knew how to use it would use their pen to turn it on. As GeeBee said all the Boeings come out of the factory with the same equipment. The airlines ops specs turn the systems on.

https://flyaqi.com/ I have had decent service from this shop. Fairly quick turn around time.

Garmin 275 will replace your airspeed indicator.

Yes you did not watch the whole video. He explains that the tool does not allow an over pressure. I’m pretty sure he said that. I think he said that right before I fell asleep.

Back in the 90’s when I flew checks and freight the Storm Scope is a great tool. I flew in some horrible weather and it kept me out of trouble all the time. I would definitely keep it.

Ok, here are the targets I am talking about. When you are on the ground and taxiing on the airport you should see other taxiing aircraft. They are brown in color. If you have your taxi chart selected you will see them moving on the chart. I wanted to find out if others with GDL88’s receive the ground traffic.

Yes , in the air I am receiving all the blue targets. 1090ES does not need to be rebroadcast, it should be on my IPad as brown targets if they are on the ground. I am going to recheck the setup and see if it looks correct. The 175 says the ground targets are not available. Yes I am not a Garmin dealer but I am an A&P that knows how to read wiring diagrams and the harnesses are built by Approach Systems. I know plenty of installers that tell me the Garmin setups can be a challenge. My GDL 88 is a receive only unit. Later models have ADSB out which I don’t need because I have a Trig mode S Transponder with ADSB out.

The pilot guide needs to be followed, however if your trim is running away you do what you need to do to stop the runaway. In the 737 which has a trim wheel in the pedestal the last resort is to try and grab the wheel with your hand to stop it. The newer Boeings you go for the disconnect switches as fast as you can. Bottom line is to stop the trim wheel from moving to an unrecoverable position ASAP. The same procedure can be applied in the Mooney or any other airplane you are flying.

I don’t have an autopilot in my Mooney, just the wing leveler. However I do have many thousands of hours in Boeings and lots of simulator training events. It does not surprise me how the GFC 500 operates. These AP take after their big brothers from the Transport category. When ever you experience a runaway trim you are directed to disconnect the AP first thinking the AP computer is causing the runaway. Then use manual electric trim to guide the trim back. If the trim is still running away you would disconnect the electric trim and take over using manual trim. Big brother’s trim motors have two sources of power to the trim motors. There are disconnect switches on the pedestal to remove the power to the trim motors. If you ever encounter runaway trim, of course follow the checklist but as a last resort turn it all off, pull the breakers.

Well not to many people have this combination I am guessing. I will probably go to a Garmin shop one of these days and have them look into it. It maybe just a setup issue. In the air it works great which is where it counts.

I have a GDL 88 hooked up to my Garmin 175 for ADSB in. I bought it used and installed it. For some reason I am not receiving ground targets. In the 175 it says ground targets not available. How do I enable the ground targets?

I am talking about fuel injected engines only. You may absolutely have a gauge or transmitter problem, or a wiring issue in between. There are companies that overhaul those gauges or sell you a new sender if you determine it is malfunctioning. Check the fuel pump and see if it is providing 8psi, check the filter for contamination. If all those items are satisfactory then troubleshoot the indicator system.

My E model has always had block line pressure anytime I run the fuel pump or shut the engine down after flight. It usually takes an hour to hour and a half to go back to zero from 25 psi. I use that pressure to prime the engine instead of running thee fuel pump after a short stop.

My neighbor has a Mc Cauley prop for sale. It has 1 hour on it. I will post a picture of the hub and see if it is the one you want.