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0TreeLemur

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Everything posted by 0TreeLemur

  1. 0TreeLemur
    Yes, the part that was exposed to the sun is badly crazed, while the edge is not nearly so. The edge was inflexibly clamped, while the center probably experienced a lot of vibrational motion. So, I leave it to you to say if it was UV exposure that weakened the material, vibration, or both that led to the changes in optical properties of the acrylic. Mixing and applying that polysulphide sealant reminded me of that old Cheech & Chong comedy routine featuring the two Russians: "Look Like Dog $#!%?". "Da. Smell bad too." We had a fun weekend.
  2. 0TreeLemur
    The 0-30 ohm senders are fine connected to the JPI EDM900 in my a/c. They agree within 1 gallon of the dials installed in each tank, which agree within less than 1 gallon of the fuel pump. The totalizer is in the ballpark with them all. When above 5 gallons per side, I pretty much know within 1 gallon how much fuel is in my aircraft.
  3. 0TreeLemur
    The end result - before and after photo. There is a new window in the door, it is just so clear compared to the old one that it seems invisible
  4. 0TreeLemur
    This past week I passed my practical test and am a brand new instrument rating holder. Should I contact my insurance agent and ask if there is any effect on my rate, or just save it until I renew in Sept? Thanks.
  5. 0TreeLemur
    Your recommendation worked out great! I noticed after removing the old window that if you lay one on top of the other, they appear do be different sizes relative to each other depending upon which one is on top. This means that using one to mark the hole locations in the other is not really possible. Your technique eliminated that problem while accounting for the curvature issue. I really appreciate your advice.
  6. 0TreeLemur
    @cliffy a search through the Mooney M20 maint. manual PDF for the words "window"and "windshield" turned up nothing about window replacement. This weekend I'm going to replace the door window. The old one is soooo bad it must be the '67 original.
  7. 0TreeLemur
    The Brittain TC electrical power supply has an inverter, a little 3-1/2" dia. and 2-1/2" tall black cylindrical object attached to the TC that does something electrical. Not sure what it does. Find that, and you'll find where the DC power cables lie. Anybody know what it does?
  8. 0TreeLemur
    There is a 1977 M20C manual you can download that is considerably more detailed. A few of the V-speeds are different (Vfe is the big one), but you can edit those. I have the '67 manual in my bird, but the '77 manual is the one that is within reach.
  9. 0TreeLemur
    Question: when starting my '67C, when I get to the checklist item "Open throttle 1/4" and I do that without having headphones on, I hear something click. What is making that clicking sound? It sounds like there is some kind of microswitch being actuated by the act of pushing in the throttle., or am I imagining that? I assumed it had something to do with the starting process...
  10. 0TreeLemur
    Late yesterday afternoon I experienced what I would suggest is an example of "hard" IFR. In a turbulent, warm, humid atmosphere, under a clamp-on hood because I misplaced the overcasters, AND with the assistance of vector-happy BHM approach controllers- I passed the IFR practical test!
  11. 0TreeLemur
    Thanks, I'll give that a shot next time I fire up the sim.
  12. 0TreeLemur
    As @RLCarter wrote, I have that problem shooting practice approaches with X-Plane. The simulator keeps showing cloud-like textures zooming by in seemingly random directions. Makes me want to puke. I wonder if there is a way to just make it gray screen with no visual cues whatsoever like being in real IFR?
  13. 0TreeLemur
    Sometime since joining MS in late 2017 I read a post that mentioned an interior renovation shop located at Posey Field in Haleyville, AL. I cannot find that posting. Can anyone give me contact info for that shop?
  14. 0TreeLemur
    From an ignorant C owner: Is this anything like a flux capacitor???
  15. 0TreeLemur
    And the music to that video....
  16. 0TreeLemur
    Ordered in early Feb. 2018 when they were running a special price to move product. Mine took less than two weeks to arrive after I sent them year/make/model S/N info. Purchased through Gulf Coast Avionics.
  17. 0TreeLemur
    Are you the exception to the adage: "The way to destroy a fun hobby is to turn it into a vocation"?
  18. 0TreeLemur
    I've not yet had her go that slow... I'll try. The brothers that taught me to fly once flew a Champ backwards on the ramp on a windy day in eastern Colorado. Sadly it predated cell phones with cameras so I have no proof.
  19. 0TreeLemur
    Shery/Paul thanks so much. This is extremely important to know!
  20. 0TreeLemur
    @hmasing what size drill did you use for the window mounting holes? I've read that oversized is good, some say 3/16", but I've also read 1/4". Do those holes require a 100-degree countersink? I haven't ordered plastic drill bits yet.
  21. 0TreeLemur
    Thanks a bunch Hans. I've had the door panel apart but I haven't really looked at the window on the pilot's side. Good to see what that area looks like. In my bird the windshield is clear or slightly tinted. The side windows were crazy green. For replacements I went with Solar Gray with UV+IR control.
  22. 0TreeLemur
    Hank- Brad's post isn't the one that I want to see photos - it was @hmasing's post. The photos are missing above. Do you see photos there?
  23. 0TreeLemur
    Hank, how does one open the thread? When I quoted it to write my reply the pictures weren't there as I deleted the frames. Thx.
  24. 0TreeLemur
    Thanks @hmasing- but I don't see your photos. They seem to have been ground up in the bit mill and spit into /dev/null. I'd like to see them. Anybody else see them?
  25. 0TreeLemur
    It has been a busy six months since I started this thread. My side windows are green, and the windshield is not green- it is solar gray. Yesterday I ordered two solar gray side windows with UV-IR control. Recently I read on another thread that drilling the window mounting holes large is a good thing. Pre-drill with 1/8" then expand to 1/4"?
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