0TreeLemur

Recent experience suggests that my radios would benefit from something. If you can find yours and post photos it would help me learn from that to fashion something workable. Thanks!

Reviving old thread because I'm curious if anyone has a photo or a drawing showing the plastic rain diverter that keeps leaking rainwater off the radio stack? I think that is a heck of a good idea given the amount of money that is in that pile of hot boxes, and the likelihood of a leak above. -Fred

I've got some of that stuff- we used it when we changed the door seal earlier this year. It also works on the class-B polysulfide window sealant. I'll give it a try- won't take long.

Today I bought a can of 3M Adhesive Remover, and a quart of MEK substitute. I'll try that tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads up regarding steel brushes and AL. Much appreciated. SB208-B was done on this a/c in 2006, over 10 years before I bought her, so I can't speculate about that. I'm just trying to do the right thing. The existing insulation/soundproofing has lost its wherewithall. BTW- N. AZ is a great place to live if you want to avoid corrosion.

<sour grapes> I hate you guys. I did it last year with $0.00 rebate. There goes the Gobment, picking winners and losers again. </sour grapes>

I went to the hangar after work and tried mineral spirits. Negative effect. Even after soaking, and with the brass brush. It is going to take a stronger solvent. I'll look into ordering some of the 3M adhesive remover. This photo shows what I'm up against. This stuff has the character of plaster infused wallpaper paste. Dried, it is slightly gritty, like it has some kind of aggregate. In thicker regions it fractures like plaster. This was installed by a MSC in 2006. Removing it looks to be a major PITA. Oh- the black stuff is the backing of the old black foam that I removed.

How about a brass brush? I've got one of those. I think the key here is soft metal so as to not remove any of the aluminum skin?? Is stainless soft enough? Just curious. Thanks @Yetti

Let the record show that @carusoam continues to be "the man".

According to the logs, the black foam insulation that was installed in our bird by a Texas-based MSC in 2006 as part of complying with SB208-B has given up the ghost. See the photo- I scraped it a bit when removing the back seat. This black stuff has lost all mechanical strength and the foil facing is falling off. Slight friction causes little black residue spots to fall to the floor. It needs replacing. We plan using the soundproofing/insulation suggested by @Skates97 from Aircraft Spruce. The stuff in our a/c was installed with some kind of gritty contact adhesive that has the dried character similar to that of chalky dried wallpaper paste. Where it got on the tubular frame, you can break it off like chalk with some effort. Seems kind of strange to me that this stuff was used as an adhesive. Anybody know what it is and if any chemical concoction can dissolve it? I don't want to use too much mechanical effort because the darn aluminum skin is so thin. Thanks for reading.

Thanks Rich. I ordered 7'. Should do it. I appreciate you sharing your experience.

Hey Rich, can you tell me about how many lineal ft. did it take? I don't want to order too much. Thx.

When the vent and heat knobs are full forward, there is NO air flow through the center console vent in our '67 C. Good luck.

Ok, so thanks to @Awful_Charlie I've got Benchmark running in macOSX virtualbox on my Linux machine! Is there a stock set of performance values for the standard Hartzell prop that came on the model C someplace? How about O-360 engine params? It seems that to describe the airframe performance I'll need to collect some data. Guessing I need a bunch of: altitude, OAT, MP, rpm, ff, and Kias in level flight? Can't use the book values because my bird has several speed mods. Jazzed & looking forward to working on this over the weekend! Fred

Reading this thread with interest. A couple of questions come up, as we're thinking about redoing the interior of our '67C. The back seat is out, as are the wall coverings in the baggage compartment. My bird still has the old-style ELT. If one were to prep for upgrading to the newer style that is connected to the GPS (430W), what wires need run? Regarding insulation, what is a good 1/2" thick closed-cell material? Thx.

Distinctive shadow on the wing during an early morning flight with my oldest son. Over northern Mississippi.

Richard, just curious- How do you get all that dye off everything so you can use dye in the future to detect an oil leak? Did your A&P suggest something?

Our lives depend on o-rings, don't fear them. They are everywhere. Two o-rings in series will seal almost anything. Modifying the quick release valve without the manufacturers permission is not allowed in certified aircraft. Similarly, we are not allowed to leave hoses on them. If you don't trust your o-rings in your quick-drain valve, your options are: (1) replace them, (2) replace the valve, or (3) stop flying.

I'd be concerned about wing flutter, control surface separation, and windscreen facial insertion.

As @carusoam says: The POWER of MooneySpace!

I have an electrical wiring stripper/tool with an integral shear that will make short work of turning a 5/8" long #4 SS screw into a 1/4" long one, and fix the threads to boot after the cut is made.

I made this-. Printed on card stock and laminated it fits right on my kneeboard.

So- download quota exceeded- Google drive won't let me down load it "at this time". Pretty vague. I was hoping to download it over night to my creaky old Linux box. BTW- @Awful_Charlie your signature block could be read as suggesting that he "eats pizza AND flies". Which brings to mind one of my favorite quotes of all time, by Bill Bryson from the book "English- the Mother Tongue and How it Got That Way": when discussing why English is simultaneously powerful, brief, and notoriously hard for foreigners to learn, Bryson gave as an example of excessive use of homonyms: "Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana". -UPDATE: I am downloading the other one, the APFS Image.

Gonna do use that procedure. Thx.

S/B M20-208 has been complied with. We plan to tackle the interior next, that will be a good opportunity to inspect the tubing, remove the surface corrosion and apply some primer before continuing. In the meanwhile, Corrosion-X it is.