0TreeLemur

I hear say that you can download an app for your phone that has a remarkably accurate tachometer based on noise. That would allow you to do a run up to something reasonable and check to see if your tachometer is working correctly. My prop governor was the original. When I took it to the prop shop they said "That is an antique." Followed a few days later with "It has so many SB's that it would cost much more than the PCU 5000 to bring it up to snuff". So, we installed a PCU 5000.

Yes, the carb f.p. is always high 5's low 6 psi range. Red line at 6.0 triggers the master alarm on the JPI900, which is a bit annoying. Lot's of folks complain about this but it seems to be "the way it is".

Yep, mostly I forget during tank change overs because after I get it switched I immediately look at the engine monitor and watch fuel pressure or any other changes. I really like the indicator light idea. Easier to do too. It is odd that if the entire row of toggles below the panel on the pilot's side are all circuit breaker type switches, the POH mentions nothing about that fact that I recall. What happens when there is a short and one of those trips? How would you know??? What is the reset procedure?

Rob thanks for your post. That is weird, there are no markings or other indication that it is a circuit breaker. It feels like just another toggle switch. If it were a circuit breaker, wouldn't it have to be placarded as such? I'll have to verify that it is actually a circuit breaker then ask my A&P to recommend a fix if so.

I am guilty of abusing the electric fuel pump in my a/c. The switch for the electric fuel pump in my '67C is way over to the left in the row of toggle switches at the bottom of the panel. It is hidden from vision by the left portion of the yoke that usually has my left fist around. I really just can't see it from my normal position. I usually remember to switch it on at the times when we are supposed to, but it amazes me how often I forget to turn it off. Occasionally I'll turn it on to switch tanks, then notice many minutes later that I forgot to shut it off because I got distracted by something else. I'm tired of abusing that poor thing so I'm thinking about moving the position of that toggle switch to a more visible location. I'm also thinking about connecting it to a toggle switch with a light on the end. Any thoughts? I stopped by an auto parts store the other evening and they have a nice selection of what seem to be rugged, illuminated, toggle switches with high amp ratings (e.g. 30 A). Thanks.

Yes- I agree. Very sad reading, but the report is very well written detailed enough that anyone reading it could learn from it. So many mistakes. I've got 0.5 h of multi-engine time and I remember "Dead Engine Dead Foot". Maybe with four engines that rule doesn't hold, but after reading that report, it would have helped. The left-seater was an instructor and was considered "ace of the base". The stack of mistakes that led to that accident is almost inconceivable.

My governor failed this year. I agree with @N201MKTurbo you should take the governor to a prop shop and have it tested. Overspeed is a bad thing. Lycoming says overspeed for more than a certain number of RPMs for more than a certain number of seconds, you should tear down the engine. Don't remember the exact numbers, but they are very concerned about overspeed.

Tailwind Cafe, Ocala, FL, pretty good food. Located at Sheltair FBO.

I just had my tanks resealed and I learned that the location of the fuel intake tube in our aircraft is a variable. Some of them are bent. Some of them have finger strainers on them that are selectively plugged by sealant or other gunk. This can result in some variance in the amount of unuseable fuel. After a major electronics upgrade this past summer I drained the tanks to weigh it. I ran one tank dry beforehand and when we drained it we got about about 0.6 gallons out of it. I marked each side as 25.4 gal. useable.

My guess would be less combustion happening in the exhaust system. This for the same reason EGT's go up when you switch from "both" to either "L" or "R" mag. Puts a bit more unburned fuel into the exhaust, where it ignites.

Problem solved- I bought two NOS Grimes model E bases on eBay today for $35 ea. so I can build them up from scratch without worrying about destroying the old ones. At first everything I saw in decent condition was really expensive. Then I switched from ebay.com to picclick.com for the search and found them that way.

Nope, mine are not counter-sunk. They have round headed #6 or #8 screws on top, and the bottom three on each bottom/side are a bit bigger.

Slightly related- the aluminum skins that cover the instrument bay on my '67C have been removed so many times that they have serious scoring round the fastener holes from screws being turned against them without plastic washers. Does anybody make those skins? I would like to replace them if able. Mine are Cessna white. Happy Veterans Day to all those who served!

Thanks for writing @M20Doc. I wonder if 100LL dissolves LED light components too? If it had standard bulbs in it I would immediately do as you suggest. I'd hate to destroy $80 of LED bulbs...

One other thing that makes me hesitate about destructive removal- I'm not sure if the LED's are white or colored. If colored, then clear lenses go on. If white, then I couldn't use the clear lenses.

Kind of started out in that direction today but my inner CB wouldn't let me get too "Medieval" thinking that if I break something that I don't want to break it is at least 0.4 AMUs for a replacement set. Hoping that someone might have a lower energy method. They almost feel like they are glued in and I don't see a gasket.

Today I tried to replace the colored lenses in the position lights on my '67C but was completely fuddled. The lenses won't come out! The prior owner replaced the bulbs with LEDs but left the old crazed colored lenses on. I want to replace them with new clear lenses. They are really stuck on. Anybody know a clever trick to remove them? Lots of force is not the answer because the metal is too thin for that. These are the Grimes model E forward facing position lights w/o strobes. Thanks.

Thanks Brian.

Still looking for a LHS sender like the one shown below.

Having just written a check for full tank reseal, my inner CB is in a rage. No way I'm paying for new senders right now. I think Marauder is going to come to my rescue and make my inner CB smile a mile wide.

While passing the Tampa area at 10,500 last Sunday with VFR flight following, I was told by Tampa approach of an RJ at 11,000 2-o'clock 5 miles, heading straight for me. He was coming straight at me from behind the right windshield post and I didn't see him until he was very near. BTW- 500 ft vertical separation is NOT VERY FAR. The RJ thought I was climbing into his flight path (I wasn't) and diverted around me at about 1/2 mile and 220 kts. Any tool we can use to help avoid other traffic is great. That was such a rapid encounter I didn't have much time to use the ADS-B info on the iPad.

The left fuel sender of my M20C is leaking from its center, not from the gasket. I want to replace with similar P/N AC5642354. I see a pair for sale on Ebay but I don't need both. Anyone have a left-hand sender they will sell? Please PM. Thanks.

I agree @RobertGary1, I too am not a fan of sticky goops. But, my a/c is missing some of the rubber gaskets. Are replacements or dimensions/materials available? Thanks.

I am looking to solve the same problem. @RLCarter does this stuff remain flexible and removable? Thanks!

Interesting theory, but that's not how prop strikes in aircraft with non-feathering props work. The only way to damage only two of three props in a non-feathered situation is if the engine is seized or the a/c hits the ground suddenly as in a crash. I've seen many prop strikes. The rotational inertia of the prop/engine is not small. The only way to dissipate that energy is through time and deformation of metal. Two blades ain't gonna do even if they are completely destroyed. What you see there in that photo is minor tip damage from the wind tipping the plane up on the tips of those two prop blades. This is similar the damage done recently to the propeller Don Kaye's beautiful aircraft when the gear were inadvertently raised in a shop. Read here: If there was a prop strike with a seized prop in that position, then only one blade would have been damaged and the bend would be about a foot from the tip. The bend location on both of those blades is more typical of a tip-over event than a prop strike with the engine running. The energy dissipation required to stop even an idling prop/engine is large. Minor damage to two prop tips just doesn't get it done.