moontownMooney

Highly recommend you talk to Bevan Rabel regarding repair of your Bendix King radio. They have a guy that specializes in them and they are very good at diagnosing and doing even component (resistor, capacitor, etc.) level repairs and replacements. They were recommended to me for this purpose by two other folks and my experience with them definitely exceeded my expectations. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Okay getting the picture that our compass mount isn't original or proper. Does someone have a pic of this style of compass mount properly done? Was the airpath compass original equipment for the 68 M20F? If so, per Clarence's description, shouldn't there be two front-to-back through holes in the windshield tube/strut to accommodate the mount screws? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

We just got a new compass mount (plastic piece inside which the compass mounts) for our airpath compass mounted to the vertical beam in the middle of the windshield. This plastic piece seems to do its job well enough, but there is a thin sheet metal u-shaped piece that attaches the plastic mount to the metal tube/strut, and this metal piece causes the plastic mount and compass assembly to vibrate quite badly. Is this metal attachment original? Are there other part options? If this is common are there folks that have had luck with modifying or damping the mount attachment to reduce compass vibration? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I recently had to redo the settings on my JPI due to an unexplained factory reset (likely during the annual). To get the current local pressure at field elevation, in order to set the JPI's manifold pressure offset/calibration, I simply set my altimeter to zero altitude and read the pressure from the window. However, now my JPI is reading about an inch higher than my engine MP gauge. Thoughts? I would think my IFR certified altimeter would be more reliable than an MP gauge, but does this mean my MP gauge needs adjusted or am I missing something. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Regardless of advice on how to resolve the issue and how to navigate the purchase price, I agree that you shouldn't let a fuel weep scare you away from an otherwise good plane. Just be aware it will take some time and or money. But almost no plane of this vintage is issue free. I don't think you've said where the weep is, but a weep into the cabin is more serious and needs immediate attention. It isn't necessarily harder to fix but it does require immediate attention. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

What should one look for when inspecting the exhaust system in this manner? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

We have the aviation version and it is definitely worth the money to me. It is far better shaped for aviation purposes than the other form a funnel models. We have not been successful in using it to catch oil from the filter, but we didn't try very hard and only tried once so far. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

IF the sealant you are patching is newer AND well done AND the patching is done carefully by an experienced technician, then yes it can be a long-ish term solution (years anyway). Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

What condition were the tanks advertised as being? What is the evidence that they are leaking/weeping? Who determined they were weeping and who notified you? Note that some amount of weeping is acceptable and may not get appreciably worse over some nominal amount of time. Other "weeping" is an airworthiness issue and grounds the airplane, per the maintenance manual. Some leaks/weeps aren't caused by the tank sealant, but by the fuel level sender seals, strainer seals, or other fuel line pickup seals. If there is any smell of fuel in the cabin, or any blue stains under the carpet, you will absolutely want to get it fixed. Few things are as depressing as having a new-to-you plane you love and being forced to monitor and deal with a fuel leak on it. Also, try to take the emotion out of the deal. The plane is just a machine and the seller is just a party in a financial transaction. Too many good people get duped by sellers they honestly believe are honest people. If the plane needs a complete reseal, you shouldn't be expecting a consolation on price equal to the cost of sealing. A plane with a fresh reseal from one of the few reputable dealers is worth more than a plane with old but non-leaking sealant. I'd ask for $4k price consolation if complete reseal is necessary. I've only bought/owned one plane and only owned it for a little over a year, but I say all this from experience. If you'd like to chat, you can PM me. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Agreed, looks normal to me. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Can you explain the significance of the PROC key to me? I have very little experience with these GPS systems and what little I have was 15+ years ago. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I've added some additional documentation for Brittain products (wiring diagrams, maintenance manuals for Accu-Trak and Accu-Flite, AFMs, supplements) in the "Downloads" section here. The very friendly Brittain staff were eager to provide me this library of information when I requested it to help troubleshoot the system in my new-to me plane last year. My wing-leveler and Accu-Flite works great. The constant rate turn knob on my Accu-Trak works but the nav tracking does not. We haven't figured it out, but that is largely because other bigger issues have come up (e.g., complete fuel tank reseal). I do miss the Brittain folks. They were so friendly and helpful.

Brittain PC & AP Documents View File These were provided to me by Brittain in 2017. Submitter moontownMooney Submitted 09/12/2018 Category Avionics

@bob865 ... thanks. I'll try that.

I have a '68 M20F with a panel that is minimally IFR qualified and no IFR GPS. My partner and I are currently both working on getting our IFR tickets in our Mooney. We appreciate the convenience and safety that an IFR GPS would provide and would love to put in a 650 when we can afford it (oh maybe a decade from now ). My thought/question is this... If I can get a 155XL (non-precision approach, crumby two-tone screen) for ~$1000, or a 430 for ~$4000 (non precision approach, crumby color screen), or a 430W (precision approach, crumby color screen) for ~$6000, or a 650 for $9000 (precision approach, nice but small color screen), to me the old GNC 155XL seems like a pretty good nearer term option. None of the color screens will be as good as foreflight on my iPad anyway and all precision approaches buy me is (typical) 200ft at airports without ILS. I've only been a plane owner for about a year and, as stated, am not yet an IFR pilot, so if I'm missing something please let me know. I'd love to hear other's thoughts along these lines. As a note, I'm aware my prices are rough and don't include install. Thanks in advance...

I can't be sure if the radio is still properly transmitting/receiving as we weren't local when it failed and we can't remember what we had dialed in. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

So we had a fun surprise during an all-morning IFR practice flight... Shut down our plane to get fuel, started back up and the display on one of our KX 155's didn't come on at all. The radio seems to be getting power because the VOR indicator twitches when you turn the radio on. Any thoughts on failure mode? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I have a 68 M20F with the split rear seat as well. I will second that it is an incredibly comfortable seat, compared to seats in general, not just aircraft seats. I enjoy riding in the back of my plane about as much as piloting it. It is an incredibly comfortable ride. The pilots seat, like all M20's I assume, you wear like a glove. But the back seat is borderline excessive for the back two of a 4 place piston. Now, no one of this addresses how easy it is to get in and out... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Hello All - We are working through our annual at a reputable MSC and have received our recommended repairs list. Things have gone quite smoothly from a major repair perspective; however, there are quite a few $300-$1000 items being recommended, which also add up. It includes some items I'd like to get some more experienced opinions on, as they have given us a bit of concern. We have a 1968 M20F. This is our first annual after ownership of the aircraft, but we had an annual completed by an MSC as part of the pre-buy process a year ago. 1) We have an Aero Trainer tire on the nose gear and the mechanic suggests that these are such poor quality that they are inherently a blowout risk and is recommending replacing. He did not indicate which brand/model of tire and tube he was going to replace with. 2) He is suggesting performance of SB-289A related to aileron links, but when I look up 289A it clearly indicates that it applies to electric gear retract versions of the 66-onward M20F's but we have manual gear retract and the applicable Modal & S/N list says nothing of that. I'm inclined to think we don't need this, per the SB's applicability list, but perhaps this has become a common repair/upgrade for the manual retracts as well and it simply hasn't been reflected in the print of the SB? 3) He is suggesting that the tail linkage (link, bolts, bushing, duct) needs replaced. He indicated that it appears original. He made a comment that this is the/a source of slop in the tail. I'm a little suspicious that he is commenting just based on the linkage appearing "original" and not on actual slop demonstrated in our plane because our pre-buy/annual mechanic (performed at a different, reputable MSC) specifically commented on how tight (i.e., little slop) the tail was relative to most Mooney's of our vintage. With that said, this is a pretty important part of the plane and I don't want to ignore sound advice on the matter. 3) He is suggesting installation of the Lasar oversized bushing and NAS bolt kit for slop in our nose gear. Our pre-buy/annual indicated slop in the nose gear as well (they added shims) so this one seems to follow history to me and I don't have any big concerns, but curious if anyone has any thoughts 5) He is also suggesting the left nose gear door rod ends. This isn't that costly, but I'm also not sure what indication compels it, or what the potential complication or failure mode would be if left unaddressed. My partner and I were encouraged with finding a reasonably convenient MSC that folks recommended, but some aspects of our experience have turned us off a bit. Communication has been less than desirable and the annual is going to stretch past 3 weeks despite no major repairs (does include 500 hr mag inspection). I'm willing to accept these issues (return next year) if the inspection is thorough and accurate and the repairs are quality. However a few of the recommendations (the first three listed above) are giving us some added concern. Thanks in advance for any thoughts/opinions/recommendations...

We have our annual coming up on our 68 M20F. We had an annual done with the prebuy, but that was in TX (SWTA) where we purchased. This will be our first annual after owning the plane and we are trying to decide on a nearby MSC. As far as I'm aware the only MSC's close to Huntsville, AL are Cole and DLK both in Georgia. Does anyone have recommendations between the two. Happy to receive PM's if you have bad reviews you prefer not to leave on the forum. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Sorry, I'm dumb, it's early, your potatoes were seconds... wow... that's not much time! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

This is the exact scenario I had in mind... how long did it run? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Anyone have a sense for how long the engine will keep running, when the fuel selector is turned to the off position? Stated differently, if I start to change tanks, how long do I have to turn the selector from one side to the other, before I risk starving the engine? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I fly an M20F out of a 2200ft grass strip. It is very doable without any exceptional piloting skill other than knowing your limits and abiding by them. Yes surface condition of grass matters, 80 mph over the threshold or you are going around, no you won't be able to take-off max gross on hot day with wet tall grass (We use a nearby executive airport to pick up passengers when we want to depart near gross), but this is still very doable. I'm off the ground by mid-field 1100 ft, or I abort the takeoff (which I have executed on the field). Mooneys will float on landing if you are too fast. Forcing it down before she is ready is a bad idea normally, worse on grass. Use proper landing technique and if you haven't touched down by midfield, go around. Do get some transition training (doesn't have to be from a Mooney pilot. In my opinion a highly experienced CFI with experience in a variety of aircraft is better than a Mooney pilot with limited to no instruction experience). You will want to get the hang of landing at a longer field first where you have plenty of room. Don't head to your shorter strip until you are comfortable with your landings. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Cecilia, I'm so sorry for your loss. You all are the kind of people who make the Mooney community so wonderful. I'll pray for your family in this time of grief and also root for a successful transition of the company. Brittain truly holds a special place within GA because of its products and it's people. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk