TheTurtle

thanks. Ill measure mine and see what I have.

i did L35 in my F. mid afternoon and DA was about 7500-8000 if I remember right. Made one climbing 360 over the lake before heading over the hill just to be safe. It was in the first week I had the plane.

the service manual calls for Mil-l-7870 which looks like it crosses to aeroshell #3. I was expecting a grease for some reason.

thanks exactly what I needed to know. going to aircraft spruce to pickup the 15 different greases needed lol. Cant find kerosine and graphite on google.

where exactly is this jack screw? Its not well pictured here:

hah. this site is great. thanks! i was wondering how that little thing did anything with the trim.

Im going to have all the rigging checked at annual in december with travel boards. Trying to figure out how all these systems work so I can talk about it somewhat intelligently.

yea i think so. I have a small electric drill with the torque set really low so I wont strip anything. Its not that bad on the creeper ill take it off tomorrow and see whats in there!

wow there are a lot of screws holding that thing on. now that you mentioned the belly pan I check the maintenance manual and see I did miss that one. #17 has the trim screw and the chain and gears but it looks like you need some really small hands and a video camera snake to actually so anything in there.

I normally dont descend like that. Sometimes ATC wants to slot you between a few jets and asks for max forward speed to the fix. So when my instructor is in the plane and we are messing around and its smooth out I just push her down and go halfway into the yellow, drop a smidge under the glideslope and pull up to slow to gear speed on glideslope. Works great when I can see outside, no so much under the hood judging by my flight track. Even in level flight at 25/25 I run out of downtrim and have to hold the yoke. 23/23 it will finally trim out level.

on the ground I can run the trim wheel to the stops in both directions with ease. In flight it feels much tighter and will hit "rough" stuck feeling spots. If I bump the yoke a little I can then get some more trim out of it. like I was saying on the ground full downtrim left no elevator movment in the yoke. But for some reason in the air with all the downtrim I can wheel in I still have to push like hell to keep it going down. So to answer your question... Im not really sure. I just today discovered enough about how it works to intelligently fly it next time and see if I can figure out exactly whats happening. I really need somebody with mooney exp to fly the damn thing. The flight with the PO didnt really tell me much and hes a one or 2 time owner with only 300ish hours in his own plane. My instructor has 10000+ hours and will fly whatever looks like a plane and work around any quirks so he's not much help for this mooney specific stuff. I also feel like the ailerons are fairly tight especailly in left turns. I have the PC button removed so it shouldnt be doing anything but it still feels to tight. I dont know if its normal as I only have 172s to compare

SO I had heard of the "whole tail" moving on mooneys. Didnt really click on what was happening. I have the service manual and even printed out all the trim related pages since Im having downtrim issues. (cant trim down enough to stay level sometimes or descend ever). Took the inspection panels off to poke around and see what's happening in there. Was mildly interesting to see the big hinge there. I have searched more than once for a good article or a post here about how it all works with the elevator and trim and yoke and hinge. From looking at it I think what happens is the trim wheel turns a rod going to the back of the plane. and actually pushes/pulls against the back half of the hinged part pushing it away from the body and raising it up. This small amount of change at the hinge also pulls against the bungees and pulls the elevators into the trim setting you are dialing in. so the trim affects the hinge and the actual elevator. The yoke doesnt affect the trim (obviously) or hinge but basically overpowers what ever trim setting you are at. the bungees pull the yoke (and elevator) back to where the trim is set. Can somebody tell me if this is close to correct? second question... Heading downhill and over say 160mph i cant trim anywhere near enough to keep it going downhill. Im actually pushing really hard with my elbows locked out to hold it in a 25/25 dive at 1000fpm+ and in the yellow on ASI. On the ground today I did full downtrim and judging by the angle of the elevator there is no way in hell I could be climbing with that much down elevator. My conclusion is im not getting full downtrim in flight. I did lift up on the elevator while full downtrimmed and it feels solid to me. I mean to me it doesnt feel like its floppy and airpressure is whats keeping it from staying nose down by flattening out the elevator in flight. I also notice with full downtrim on the ground the yoke has no more travel forward. IE I cant push the nose down anymore. This is not the case when flying. I also think my bungees are shot. I can see grease coming out the ends on the side attached to the yoke pushrods. How many AMUs are those things going to cost me wonders.

yep they are mounted to the seat... Doesn't look like a big deal to swap though. The PO had the pilot seat out once to fix it and gave up. He did give me a few seat springs with the sale so Ill see how that goes. I vaguely remember something about something else being broken inside the seat.. thanks for the help guys

hmm i do have shoulder belts. From memory nothing is attached to the seat though. Ill verify that before taking things out. The clippy side of the lap belt is mounted to the floor beside the johnson bar up lock. Shoulder belt is mounted to ceiling. What I now cant remember is where the adjustable part of the lap belt is mounted. I assumed the floor as well.. thanks

I want to remove my copilot seat for better access to the trim wheel for some lube. In reading I also saw that some people suggest swapping pilot and copilot seats from time to time for even wear. My pilots seat sags a lot in the seat on the right side. When flying especially under the hood I always feel like Im turning... Thinking Ill go ahead and swap them while I have to take one out anyway. Looks like you just remove the cotter pin at the front and rear and slide them out? On an F is there any difference in the seats or its just going to be a straight swap? on another note, i removed the inspection panel to get to the trim stops. Where am I supposed to find the carny with small hands to actually do anything in there?

what is "this"?

man there is a lot of fat shaming on this site. And I, for one, approve. wife wont let me put a "No Fat Chicks" sticker on the back but I do keep trucknuts hanging from the rear tiedown.

anybody know anything about the instructor? Isnt he the FBO owner? Lot of nice things being said about him in the pilot community? other than the "hero" type labels in the news? just stirring the pot a little.

the guy i sublet my hangar from is on my insurance and allowed to fly my plane a few days a month. Im making him fly with my instructor for 5 hours minimum to get his complex chops back but the guy has 6000 hours so Im not to worried. Besides getting a hangar at john wayne is pretty much worth the risk. Now my wife or my dog or my money you better not touch Oh, and my tools, and my 72 chevy.

my prebuy was done at foothill. i dont have anything bad to say about them. The guy was nice enough. Everything was as promised time wise. Didnt find anything to major. Nit picked a little which is fine for a prebuy. Left a couple cowl screws loose.

So I think the socket size for that bolt is 1/2". 1/2" - 3/16" = 5/16 (pretty close to your 1/4") The book says 1/4 = 96 inch lbs. looks like your math checks out thanks!!

one of my intake tubes has a loose nut. I cant find an exact torque spec for it. I did find in the lycoming overhaul manual on the service table limits section for all bolts and nuts listed by size of bolt/nut. http://www.expaircraft.com/PDF/Lycoming-OH-Manual.pdf page 142 7/16 = 50 ft/lbs 1/2 = 75 ft/lbs what I wasnt sure of is it says thats the thread size. So is that NOT the size of the socket Im using and actually the size of the threads?

put in half a bottle of camguard and 7 qts of 100w. Thanks guys!

I have a case of 100weight for my oil change given to me by my flight school owner and IA. I just noticed the last oil change was done with 15-50. My school runs all 100w in everything. We are in socal and ill never be any place cold. Can I use 100w without a problem?

great thanks. It looks like a real pain to get to so Im glad it can stay loose