DVA

Cylinders don’t heat and cool that fast, this is a monitoring / sensing issue not a cylinder problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’re not missing anything most likely. Welcome to air cooled engines. Just to be sure, I’d check the following in order to see if there is a way to equalize temps a bit. 1. Make sure all cooling fins are unobstructed. (We just found a Mirage with a birds nest on number 4 last week) 2. Cowl air seals in place? Making a good seal all around? Baffles in place? 3. Look for a spark plug gasket probe used on one of the cylinders, split to run the ships on board CHT gauge and the 830. 4. Is the muffler bearing tight? Use a Kanortin wrench and jiggle the Canibly pin. (I’m almost kidding on number 4, but sometimes it is what it is) DVA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This appears to be classic diode leakage in the annunciator panel. I’ve worked on a few of these and (provided that the alt / regulator / threshold adjustments are correct) this looks like a common mode failure. The big diodes in the back are for the charging and battery 1 2 circuits and would likely not affect the indicator intermittently. But you’re correct to point them out as Mooney trouble spots, especially when peeps have trouble with charging batt number 2. Mooney also provided me with the original engineering drawings and ToO for those pesky multi-led flap, rudder trim and cowl flap indicators on the M’s. I build a test bench for them and have repaired a few. According to my friends at Mooney I’m one of the only ones doing that. Mooney won’t touch them anymore. I hesitate to, because they’re as much of a PIA as the annunciation panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most mechanics (not all though) have little electronic theory or experience - won’t likely want to touch a thing except run the settings adjustment The diodes in this circuit are very small and under very low current. They won’t fail like the big ass protection diodes in the battery charging circuit. They will look normal, and you can only tell which one(s) of the many are bad is to measure the reverse voltage drop across them -out of the circuit - and find the one(s) that exceed the 0.7v drop. It’s a pain. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, there are threshold settings, it’s an relatively easy procedure and I can send you the maint manual pages for it if you have them. However, the circuit that drives those alt lamps was poorly designed and used a series of steering diodes to make a high-low threshold system. When those diodes start to leak (from age) the circuit becomes unstable and you can get exactly what you’re seeing to a ton of other odd flickers. Very hard to find a shop to work on those. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, an annual simply states that the aircraft is considered airworthy at that moment. Including all the “pencil whipped” entries of the past as they don’t count anymore. I agree that the quality of the inspection is mutually exclusive of the actual process of the annual. We’ve all seen good ones and bad ones. (I totally agree about Don’s diligence). I disagree about the magical qualities of a pre-buy vs an annual. Only an annual can confirm FAA worthiness by a third party if that annual is fully completed per part 43 and or manufactures inspections criteria. So if the buyer is looking for a legal representation of airworthiness, they must get that via an proper inspection that follows the guidance of the annual. By virtue of a an IA sign off under such conditions, you have done an annual inspection. And why not? I don’t think anyone is suggesting to stop short of making sure the aircraft is inspected properly, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not in total agreement with all the details here, although I’ll say it’s true that’s it not for the faint of heart. Yes, have all the AMU and cash reserves available for the unexpected. But... I’ve owned a few in various deals from outright ownership (my current Bravo) to partnering in a J, a 340, T303 and 172 over the last 35 years or so. And owning a maintenance shop where we specialize in Mooney’s I can offer this guidance on inspections of any aircraft. Your first annual should be relatively smooth (unless something breaks) because during the purchase you insisted on getting the best “annual” possible before you buy. There is no such thing as a pre-buy inspection, that’s just a made up thing to avoid the cost and the truth you really need to hear. I know many shops that will not do any inspection that asks them for their opinion about general airworthiness unless they perform and sign off on an actual FAA annual. And these shops are smart to do so as the liability is extremely high otherwise. If you’re asking “should I buy this airplane based on its airworthiness?” The only way for you get a legal opinion on “airworthiness” from a third party is to do the equivalent of a part 43 annual inspection where an AP with IA opines that the aircraft is airworthy. My experience suggests that you do this completely and more thoroughly than ever before you buy. Even it means more cost. There’s no reason to be surprised by a corroded spar next year. The only difference between a purchase based annual and the yearly one is when you stop the process. Usually you start an FAA annual to finish it if you want to fly the airplane. But a purchase annual can be done differently. 1. Find the airplane of your dreams. 2. Fall in love with it. 3. Negotiate the terms contingent on passing a full annual (use that term, not pre-buy) expect to pay for the inspection pass or fail. (You should’ve negotiated a lower price to cover much of this) 4. Fly it for hour or two. (Expect to pay the costs to do this) 4a, 4b and 4c. BE SURE YOU WANT THIS AIRCRAFT - because your investment starts at the next step. 5. Perform the inspection, (watch if you can, we encourage it at our shop) starting with the biggest and most expensive items and areas first - inspection stops (and so do costs) if issues are found that queer the deal - you walk away a lucky duck. 6. If everything goes well - buy the plane with a fresh best-ever annual and with a feeling of safety and pride. Yes, I am suggesting that you take responsibility and cover the cost to ensure that your getting a safe aircraft. If the previous owner did a good job of keeping the plane airworthy, you’ll both be happy in the end, and if not - you dodged a bullet at exactly the right time. Flame on kids - I feel it coming. :-) DVA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, you might find this useful as far as power and MAP settings are concerned. TLS Bravo Percentage of Power... Redux. (UPDATED 11/2016) https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=55491&share_tid=18699&url=https://www.mooneyspace.com/index.php?/topic/18699-TLS-Bravo-Percentage-of-Power%2E%2E%2E-Redux%2E-%28UPDATED-11-2016%29&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just curious, have you read the very first post in this thread? If so, what could I have done better to help others understand the idiosyncratic nature of the Bravo at LOP? Thanks DVA Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With all due respect - that is just not true. Just because one has achieved a license or certification of any type, that in and of itself does mean they are competent, experienced or correct in their advice. I’ve seen many incompetent A&Ps. The forum here does not purport to give legal or even expert advice - it is however a place to discuss and learn, and often times it has proven to be the correct source of information. I will tell you that this “crowd” is valuable as a sounding board and have helped greatly many many times. (Rudders can flutter, btw) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bad. Damage to a control surface with even minor bending or cracks makes the aircraft not airworthy. The manufacturers’ want nothing to do with aberrations that might cause flutter or another strange flight characteristics and every time I have suggested a patch or repair to Mooney or others is was denied. Liability and safety listed as the reasons. The faa punts this back to the manufacturer. If the manufacturer approves a repair, they will send you a letter stating so and what steps you need to follow. Failing that, you have to buy: a whole new assembly, a good condition used assembly; or new skin sections (which are not cheap). Also, if you paint a old usable part, (or use new skin sections) you are required to re-balance the entire control surface following the manufacturer instructions for such. Sorry for the bad news. Please make sure you triple check any advice you get to the contrary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m certainly not trying to argue with you @Mlm20c - just trying to help you loose weight - but if the fluid is indeed included in the empty weight calc, it is not confirming to the FAA rules on W&B and you should either re-weight correctly, or have an A&P do a correction if they can find fact of that in the paperwork. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which would be 100% wrong if it was. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see the formatting is bad in the last post. There are three columns in the data. Just FYI. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome to Bravo ownership! My empty weight is 2498.5, FiKI, Monroy’s and larger O2 bottle - same “problem” as everyone. The Bravo is a two seater at best, but wow it’s fast and fun. Here’s something you can look for. There is the possibility that you have Charlie weights installed from back in the day when a fully loaded panel weight a lot. I bet if your CG is nearly always aft, they’re probably still in at station 209.5 way the back. It can be up to 19lbs and is likely not needed. (It a help!) If you haven’t actually done a measured weight and balance in scales lately, it might be a good idea. I lost 25 lbs when I did that by making sure everything was legally accounted for and nothing was hiding as extra weight. I rarely fly with full fuel, because I can’t legally get into the plane alone, like you, and I can’t fly for more than 4 hours with my old bladder and sore ass anyway. So, here’s a little present for your new ride. Go by the universal fuel stick at Sporty’s and use this to get very precise. (I think I also wrote a blog post on this but I’m on my phone and can’t check) Mooney M20M Fuel Stick Use only with Monroy STC. Marking Calc's Gals. USE THIS .25 21.1 21 .5 22.8 23 .75 24.5 24 1 26.2 26 1.25 28.85 28 1.50 29.50 30 1.75 31.20 31 2.00 33.00 33 2.25 34.50 34 2.50 36.20 36 2.75 37.80 38 3.00 39.50 40 3.25 41.20 41 3.50 42.90 43 3.75 44.50 44 4.00 45.75 45 4.25 47.00 47 4.50 48.25 48 4.75 49.50 49 5.00 50.75 50 5.25 52.00 52 5.50 53.25 53 5.75 54.50 54 6.00 55.00 55 6.25 56.00 56 6.50 57.00 57 6.75 58.00 58 7.00 59.00 59 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So ... Finding the actual leak area(s) is usually 75% of the work, discounting that effort can be an expensive mistake. I can assure you that 99% of the time the leak(s) is/are not in the area of the visual leak. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We do a fair number of tank reseals and patching, and I’ve learned that time is not a factor in leaking. Each tank from the factory or through the good shops that do aftermarket chemical striping and resealing know that there are inconsistencies in the process from tank to tank. That plane may never leak. But the older the sealants gets the more brittle they become. (There are three types of sealants used) Since it has never leaked I’d say you’re now into the luck of landings stage. Your biggest enemy will be an exactly perfect hard landing. The flex moments may now be enough to cause the Buna N top coat to split which is likely the only thing at this point that is keeping the wing dry. I will advise that if it does start leaking you are not a candidate for a patch. Plan on a full strip and reseal and add that to your cost calculation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sry to sound terse, I may have come across that way, it was unintentional. I will stay that pilots have to understand that “norms” for proper oxygen saturation has nothing to do with liters of flow or altitude markings. Those are just reference points. The norm is based on the person. You may recall that a healthy person may properly saturate at a given altitude with x liters per minute, but a smoker or a person with even mild copd or other respiratory pathology may require twice or three times as much O2 to reach the same safe SpO2 levels. I just hope this discussion helps pilots who fly high with supplemental O2 understand that their own self dictates flow, not a marking on a gauge. The pulse ox is the only valid checklist item. Happy safe high flying! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do not rely on other people’s flow rates or on any calculation. The only way to be sure you are oxygenated properly at any altitude is to invest in a PulseOx and adjust O2 flow so you are maintaining an SpO2 of your normal earthly saturation. Most people are fine in the range of anything above 92%. Dropping below the high 80’s is indicative of hypoxemia, which can progress to hypoxia which can progress to trouble. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was installed by CAV.

I updated my 500/750 last week. Lots of great new features. Just one caution, fly a practice RNAV approach or two to get use to the new vertical guidance arrows before you actually do a real approach. Learn from me. Lol.

TKS FIKI was installed in 2010

I’m at KPHL flying to SFO (commercial) and I showed the ladies at the counter both pictures - yours and this one. I asked which was the better picture and they both said “that one” with the cute guy standing next to the plane. As I enlarged mine to show them a closer view, both said “no! The other one!” Now I don’t like you any more. :-)

This is my personal aircraft at Van Allen Airmotive. Meticulously maintained 1550 airframe and 500 prop/eng hours. Full Garmin 750/500/430w with the most recent software, blue tooth, voice command, integrated audio, GTS800 active TAS, ADSB in and out, Garmin AoA, Flightstream 210, XM Wx/Music, LED nav/strobes/boom beam, JPI, O2, FIKI. I think I can safely say this is the most up to date and best equipped Bravo out there. There is nothing else you need to make this plane perfect. It has it all because I’m crazy. This is not a starter mooney, I won’t even consider selling this to anyone who hasn’t had a lot of mooney or other high performance aircraft experience. Please pm me or dva@me.com for more and pics. I am letting my friends at Mooneyspace have a first crack before I list it. $260k Why do I want to sell it? I’m buying a twin, and if I could I wouldn’t sell it, it is by far my favorite plane in 35 years of flying everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep - and my worst too. Lol