deanders

I have a 65 E model that rotates very slowly when starting. The starter P/N 1109695 was overhauled 40 hours ago. The gill battery is also recently replaced. Today it started after about three revolutions, taxied to the fuel farm and got fuel. Trying to restart after getting fuel the battery acted like it was dead. I had about 12 revolutions before it wouldn't turn any more. I removed the battery and checked the specific gravity level and the battery was 75 percent charge. My bus voltage in flight is 14.2 volts. I'm planning on replacing the starter solenoid with a Lamar solenoid P/N x61-0030. What is the general consensus regarding my issues and is the solenoid I list the correct part. The aircraft has 4200 hours and the solenoid is original.

Left hand aileron for sale. Very good condition, newly painted. P/N 230000-1 for a M20-D. I bought this and painted it thinking it would fit my E model. $1200.00. I have $1600.00 invested in it.

I have a set of caps off my 66E. I'll look to see if I still have the necks. I installed bladders in my E.

The guide tubes are in the seat back. I had my seats reupholstered last year. I bought stainless tube and bent to fit the guide tubes and the upholstery ship covered the head rest loupe. It came out very nice.

Thanks guys that helps a lot.

What down lock tensions are you guys using? My old service manual has 140 to 200 on the nose and 275 to 350 on the mains. Does that sound right. I'm having a hell of a time getting the mains set. I'll have one side set at 325 and the other is at 225. I adjust the low one one half turn And they swap readings. I have the nose at 180 inch pounds. I can get them both set at 225 inch pounds but as I try to increase the tensions things go south. Help!

If that's for the baggage door I'll take it.

I have two good ones if your still interested

I'm looking for a left aileron for an E model.

So far I have 16 hours it. That's removal, disassembly, bead blast and inspection. I'm estimating to complete I'll total hours spent 40 to hours. Nice job Vance on your aircraft.

As you can see on the pics I have posted, the gear after painting was poor where they couldn't get to. It's expensive to remove, inspect, powder coat and reinstall but, once this is done your gear shouldn't need any other service other than yearly maintenance. Not to mention, It will look like new. For the cost of an avionics upgrade your gear looks good and shouldn't collapse on you.

They cleaned, scuffed and shoot. It's not the ideal way to go but I had planned to remove the gear anyway. As far as the "moving parts" it didn't seem to be a problem with the gear operation. The key is after cleaning/paint, lube, lube swing the gear and check rigging and down lock tensions

The nose strut was worn where it pivots in the trunnion, lower flange. The bushing has worn half way through the metal, also the tubing was dented due to ground handling. Lazar offers an overhaul exchange for this. The tube thickness in the main gear trunnion are in tolerance along with the blocks they slide into. The top surface of the right walking beam showed a little corrosion pitting on the top surface but within tolerance. Total time on this aircraft is 4500 hours As far as cleaning the gear in place, in my opinion pressuring washing would be ok as long as you grease and lube all areas and preform gear retraction checks before you fly. One reason I pulled the gear is because I had 3 or 4 zerk fitting that wouldn't take grease. Several of these the bolt had rusted to the bushing so I needed to heat the bolt using oxy/acc torch in order to remove it. I had my aircraft painted a year ago and the paint shop did a nice job of cleaning the exposed areas and painting the gear. It looks ok from a distance. They did remove the main gear doors for this. Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep you posted as I work through this.

thanks

I'm in the process of overhauling the gear on my 1965 E model. I removed all three gear and bead pasted for inspection. After 50 years of use I thought I should inspect it for ware. The disc were dated 1965 and several zerk fittings would not take grease. Once removed and inspected I found the nose strut was worn and needed to be replaced along with one main gear shock link, bushings and knee bolts. I'm also replacing the Johnson down lock block due to ware. After power coating it will be reassembled using all new hardware and shock disc. Has anyone replaced the steering horn assay with Lasar rebuilt assy? If so was there a marked improvement? This is the last piece of a two year process of restoring the old bird. For those interested, the cost for the gear will be about 5 grand not including labor to remove, reinstall and rig.

I removed mine and rebuilt it. You'll find you need to drain ALL the fuel from the tanks. It's very tight to get the lines off and removed, if you haven't emptied the fuel before, they will be empty by the time the selector is out. The rebuild isn't tuff but there are small balls and springs for the detents that are easy to loose.

I had the same issue last year and decided to install O&N bladders. I'm glad I did, works great and lasts along time.

How about a left hand aileron and Gauge cluster (fuel quantity-oil press) for an E model?

Looking for a Left aileron for my M20E

I did the annual and the bladder STC in Hayward, than moved it to Placerville.

I just went thru this. The STC paper work is $1500.00 and they will only sell it to an avionics shop. I had to pay the shop to verify that the system was install correctly. when you get the paper work, your serial number is assigned to it.

I need a left hand aileron for my 65 E model. Would you sale one for $350.00 plus shipping?

Here are some before pic's. The paint shop is in Lincoln Ca, Kracon.

After working on this project for a year, she is ready to fly. This aircraft sat for four years in Hayward Ca. The engine has 340 hours since tear down and the prop has 340 hours since new. I bore scoped the engine and found no rust in the cylinders, the're chrome. I had to pull the engine in order to replace all fluid hoses. All accessories were overhauled or replaced along with the mag harness and the prop was overhauled. Installed O&N fuel bladders, overhauled the fuel gage senders. Installed Garmin 430W, Garmin four way intercom/auido pannel, push to talk on both sides,overhauled DG with heading. Blue tooth for Ipad, GNSS steering for the Stec 30 with Alt. hold, kept the Kx155 and Kt76. New paint using the a modified version of the orginial 66 scheme. New interior using two tone leather. After buying her for two grand and doing all the work, i'm an A&P, i'm in it for more than she is worth. Sometimes a grate deal turns out that way. At any rate its a nice upgrade form a 152.

I'm just finishing my 65 M20E after a years work. She sat for 4 years before it was given to me. The project has been long and expensive, much more than I expected. I should have the interior finished in a couple of weeks. Considering I'm an A&P and I have done all the work, I'll have about 20 grand more invested than I can sale it for. The last item left is to remove the gear so I can replace the briskets and bushings. N6042Q Rebuild Sheet June 15 2015 thru June 15 2016.docx