deanders

I considering selling my 65 M20E. Call me at 530 499 1296, Dennis

Looks like it may have been loose and was arcing.

I have a Prestolite starter I just removed from my E model. I removed it to install a Skytec. It has less than 100 hours since overhaul. If you want it I'll let it go for 100 bucks. The Skytec is a good option.

Yes I do. I bought a left hand Aileron for my 66 M20E S/N 883 and it is for a later model. I don't have a part number for this one. If your interested let me know and maybe we can figure it out.

I have two shaw caps I removed for my 1966 E model that are in good shape. I installed bladders so I no longer need them and they are for sale. Email me at n757pp@gmail.com if your interested. Dennis

Try Kracon in Lincoln Ca KLHM, 916 645 1614. They painted E three years ago and I was very happy with the service and the finished product.

This happened to me several times in my E model. I removed the master cylinder and overhauled it using new orings from Spruce Aircraft. There is a check valve of sorts in the master cylinder that is the issue. I haven't had any issues since the overhaul.

Please add me, thanks.

Removed from my 1966 M20E in working order. I installed a Plane Power system. $100.00

I was given a 65 M20E that sat for 4 years with a mid time engine. I spent a year and a half restoring her completely including paint, interior, fuel bladders, avionics, gear over and prop overhaul. I didn't overhaul the engine but did overhaul or replace all the accessories. I'm an A&P so labor was free and I still spent $85,000.00. If I had to do it over again I would pass on it. Having said that I enjoy flying her.

Thanks for the information guys. I'll post the solution when I figure it out.

Does anyone know the correct belt P/N for an Inter-av alternator installation? I'm currently using a Lycoming belt P/N 37B19774-374 belt. The problem with this belt is the pulley on the alternator in wider than the belt. Even when I tighten the belt it goes to the bottom of the pulley allowing the belt to slip. I'm told the belt that came with the STC was a Gates belt. I can either change the pulley or the belt. Mooney M20/E

I had a similar Issue with my E model. Mine had sat for four years before a complete restoration. I overhauled all components firewall forward except the engine itself and the fuel distributor. On my first test flight it started to backfire on the downwind leg however I was able to make it back. Turns out one of the injectors clogged even though the fuel system was new. I removed the fuel distributor and found it was corroded causing the injector to clog. Over the next four or five flights I had high EGT on Cylinder number two. I swapped injectors around and no changes. I removed the stainless line from the distributor to the injector and ran safety wire though it and cleaned it with pressure. This worked and all EGT run the same. I think a piece of corrosion had broken off and got stuck in the line reducing the fuel flow enough to cause high EGT but enough fuel to run. I hope this helps.

Brittain had my servo for a year and a half while they made their new mold. I received an overhauled servo with their new boot installed several weeks ago. It looks and works great. They have a backlog to work through so it may take awhile.

Yes I have Two of them

If you include the fuel sending units with the cluster gauge I'll buy them for 300.00.

Can you show a picture of the back of the Garwin cluster gauges.

I need the one on top

Mhemperly made an offer April 26 2016 for $50.00 Regardless of that what do you want for the cluster gauge. You posted a picture of two units sitting on top of each other.

Do you still have the cluster Gauge pictured on top with the cannon plug and individual gauges? It looks like you wanted $50.00, if so I'll take it.

As it turns out the problem was a bad battery. It's only a year and a half old, not impressed with Gill's battery. I installed a new battery and all is good. A lot of extra work but after 50 years of service new solenoids, clean connections and a new battery cable, I should be good to go.

All good information, thanks for the feed back. I removed the power relay mounted on the battery box. The power cables needed cleaning as did the mounting hardware. I'm replacing the power and starter relays. All other connections looked good. If this doesn't fix it I will go with the Concord battery. I'll let you know the outcome in a couple of days.

The engine starts fine usually 2 or 3 revolutions when cold and about 4 or 5 when hot. I'll trouble shoot with the Skytec troubleshooting guide tomorrow. Thanks for that.

I have a 65 E model that rotates very slowly when starting. The starter P/N 1109695 was overhauled 40 hours ago. The gill battery is also recently replaced. Today it started after about three revolutions, taxied to the fuel farm and got fuel. Trying to restart after getting fuel the battery acted like it was dead. I had about 12 revolutions before it wouldn't turn any more. I removed the battery and checked the specific gravity level and the battery was 75 percent charge. My bus voltage in flight is 14.2 volts. I'm planning on replacing the starter solenoid with a Lamar solenoid P/N x61-0030. What is the general consensus regarding my issues and is the solenoid I list the correct part. The aircraft has 4200 hours and the solenoid is original.

Left hand aileron for sale. Very good condition, newly painted. P/N 230000-1 for a M20-D. I bought this and painted it thinking it would fit my E model. $1200.00. I have $1600.00 invested in it.