N131MA

Antares: When did you plan the Bahamas trip? I am planning an one week Bahamas island hopping trip starting 3/18. We did not decide on final routing and islands yet. Happy to share the experience after the trip!

One more option for finding the leak is gas leak detection spray like the example below. The bubbles are very easy to see and the leak finder can be washed out with some 100ll after locating the leaks. https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-4182-24-Detector-Bottle-1-Quart/dp/B000R7Z6L4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482614362&sr=8-1&keywords=leak+detection+spray

Any recommendations for a Mooney experienced CFI based in Palwaukee (Chicago Executive Airport)? I am looking to prepare for the CPL practice exam in my Eagle.

I have the same issue with my 310HP Eagle but I did not fix it yet. I believe the new primary tach gets the signal from the p-lead. The Moritz gauge gets the signal from a sensor in one of the mags. The Moritz gauge shows rpm with the analog indicator and the digital number. Do both show the 3000 RPM? If so, you may want to check the cable connection from the sensor to the gauge.

Downloaded from http://www.neboservice.ru/docs/0832502001214288299.pdf ATC Ground asked me two times to confirm my intention to taxi in circles :-)

After I got stranded with a flat tire at a remote airport: A can "Fix-A-Flat"

I recently recognized in flight that my Aspen compass was off 15 degrees and confirmed this using runway heading. Performing the Aspen magnetometer calibration procedure (start procedure in service menu, taxi in circles) got the magnetometer back on track.

Here the pictures of the oil cooler. The gap between cooler and firewall was on one upper corner.

Hi THill From my CHT hunting experience: Figure out whether #3 has an induction leak. Sounds unlikely though. You would expect higher CHT @ ROP but lower CHT @ LOP from an induction leak. Test procedure on https://www.savvyanalysis.com/articles/in-flightdiagnostics All cylinders have small inter-cylinder baffles. You need to take off the lower cowling to see them. Check whether these are properly placed and not lose. I compared #3 with #4 in order to see how correct looks like. Baffle leak hunting: Check whether the baffles seal tightly, look for any holes in the firewall. You want the cooling air flowing from top to bottom of the engine. Every leak reduces this airflow. Especially important for the middle cylinders #3 and #4. This solved my problem. If you have leaks, they would likely on the side of the hotter cylinder(s). #3 is on the middle cyl on right side.

Hi Clarence Absolutely! I forgot to shoot one. I will post a picture as soon as I take off the cowling again ... or we have a look together in Oshkosh :-) Save flight! Peter

Since top overhaul cylinder #4 was 30F-50F hotter than the other five jugs. In summer, it was hard to keep the #4 CHT below 400F in cruise. I went through many recommended diagnosis and fix steps: Cleaned fuel nozzles, cleaned and swapped plugs, checked JPI data for weak ignition, for induction leak and GAMI spread (.2 gal) - all no finding nor any impact. During another detailed inspection of the baffles (looked fine) I checked the oil cooler installation: It was sealed at the bottom with high temp RTV but it had a a big hidden gap at the upper part between oil cooler and firewall. Closed this gap with high temp RTV and ... #4 temperature dropped to normal level! Conclusion: Search for the obvious first! :-)

So far I learned from the IO-390 discussion: Limited to 210 HP max t/o power to max 5 min. I am trying to understand the practical relevance: Above 2000ft pressure altitude no limitations (MP will be less than 27) but 7.5HP more than the IO-360. Full power t/o climbs won't take more than 5 min to get one above 2000ft. Practical limitation: no "balls to the walls" below 2000ft pressure altitude? IO-390 is more expensive to overhaul. Cylinders are $1.4k more per jug - today. No one knows vendors and prices in 5-10 years from now. Price/performance ratio for the 360 -> 390 upgrade is not attractive. For buying a used aircraft w/ IO-390 not relevant. In general, Slick mags are perceived as less reliable than Bendix mags. Thanks for the insides!

I am hunting some radio noise in my Eagle. Radios are GNS530W and GNS430W. The noise does not break the squelch but I have problems hearing distant stations. Diagnosis so far: Prominent low frequency noise in headset (like "grrrrrrrrr") when the Garmins are un-squelched. Same on both radios. Tried different headsets and passenger plugs, no change -> issue does not seem to be on the audio end Sound is not "whining". Switched off alternator, no change. -> no alternator problem Pulled all CB, switched off all equipment (except radio), no change -> not a radiating instrument or el motor issue Noise changes frequency with rmp and volume changes with radio volume -> Radiated ignition noise? Mag check. No real difference between L/R Mag. -> Not a "one mag only" problem Switched off both mags in flight. Noise was gone! -> For sure ignition noise. Grounded shielding of the P-leads. no change. Removed P-leads from mags (hot mags). No change when engine is running -> not a P-lead shielding issue Mags are S6-25 series. I believe they have a decent condenser filter integrated. -> Improvement by additional mag filter unlikely Both mags got the 500h overhaul @ last annual. The noise was there before and still is. -> Mag (or condenser) problem unlikely Spotted the noise with a hand radio. Looks like most noise comes from the mag/harness area Planned next steps: Pull the Radio antenna and check impact. If noise reduces, noise is radiated. If not, noise is conducted. Visual inspection of ignition harness. Looked good on first view though. Check grounding of ignition harness on both sides (plugs and mags). For a test run shield mags and ignition harness with grounded copper tape. Any ideas or guidance is highly appreciated!

First impression, the 1st one: IO-390 engine, least time SMOH I have the 430W/530W combination as well. Love it! Both can be upgraded w/ ADS-B traffic. Nice cockpit (930, autopilot) and other upgrades (Tanis heater, Powerflow, etc) My 2 cents...

I upgraded from a M20E to an Eagle more than a year ago. I got my M20S with the 310HP STC already. I would not want to miss the acceleration and climb performance. T/o performance like the M20E, cockpit space and cruise speed of the Ovation. The bill hurts until the check is cashed. You will enjoy the performance for many years!

I am planning to fly in for two day trips. It's a short trip from Chicago... Monday is scheduled now. Looking forward to meet you all at the Mooney Caravan Tent @ 6pm!

and here are the two drawings. The procedure took not more than 30min! cam adjustment 1.pdf cam adjustment 2.pdf

Sorry for the late reply.... Yes, the adjustment procedure fixed the problem 1Remove SpeedBrake from wing. 2. While looking at the top of the SpeedBrake you see a set screw in the slot on the forward side of the SpeedBrake. 3. Loosen the set screw and move the cam slightly inboard, the motor should stop running (see Cam Adjustment drawing 1). 4. Adjust cam so the motor shuts off ½ inch from the top of the SpeedBrake (see Cam Adjustment drawing 2).

Precise Flight service is indeed great. I got more guidance on how to diagnose the problem: Recycle the speedbrakes (up and down) and check whether the motor in the wing still runs with the brake retracted. If recycling makes the motor stop: Control box defect. If recycling has no impact: Step 2 Adjust the cams (position of the brakes when pulled in). Precise Flight sent me instructions. If this fails: Step 3 Defective retract sensor. Send the brakes to Precise Flight for service. Step 1 did not work in my case. I'll try step 2 this weekend. Keep you posted.

I have Precise Speed Brakes in my M20S. The brakes extend and retract very well. Some flight hours ago I got this issue: After using the brakes, the amber annunciation light in the cockpit would not go off, despite the brakes retracted completely. Even after extending / retracting the brakes a couple of times the light stays on. Only after resetting the brakes (pull/push in circuit breaker) the light goes off. As soon as the master is switched on, the speed brake motor in the right wing starts working (I can hear the electric motor noise). Precise Flight's technical support indicated a defective retract sensor in the right wing brake as potential root cause. The sync control units "thinks" the right brake is still extended and continues running the retraction motor. I will have a look at the brake later this week. Did anyone have the same issue? Any recommendation on where the retract sensor is located and/or where to get a replacement?

+1 for Foreflight + Stratus 2. Traffic, ADS-B, simple flight plan filing, very good briefing, all in one package. A good budget option (no subscription fee) is FltPlan mobile on iPad / Iphone. All charts for the US and Canada, even geo-reference approach charts. The FltPlan app is available on Android as well but I did not try it.

Thanks to everyone for the information!

For smaller maintanance jobs I am looking for the M20S service manual (or M20R) and for the M20R/S parts catalog. What would be the best way to get these? Or does anyone have them electronically? Thanks for your help!

I upgraded my M20E with the Plane Power Alternator. The legacy alternator (Motorola?) caused radio noise. I was very happy. STC included, Radio noise gone, even with 1000 RPM, taxi lights and nav lights on, no negative amps.

I moved in December 2011 and I could not wait any longer to get my plane back: That's why the trip from the US to Germany was in March 2012. The return flight from Germany to the US was in August. After freezing my b... of in Iqaluit I fully agree: May - August are the best months. I am based in Chicago @ KPWK. I really like the M20S with 310HP conversion, TKS, Aspen, more space, longer range, etc. Nevertheless, I miss cruising with the M20E @ 12k ft, with 145kn TAS - with 8.5 gal/h. Hard to see the guppy mouth from the left seat :-)