Kelpro999

Not yet, I have many images but still in progress. Currently working the extensive squawk list. It’s all basic wht and any other color or accent will be vinyl at this time. I’ll list the process with images later if anyone is interested

All removable parts done in my booth along with surface balance. The rest magically happened one panel at a time over time.

Yeah, it’s definitely not for saving paint

I use sealed lead bars on top of the horizontal spar and tail weight at same time along with a telescoping perforated tube that “pins” the tail eye at any height from the lead bar weighted plate on the floor.

That test was on what looks like four different sealants in my tank. You can see curling of edges on old patch and complete removal of red seal coat but it had a hard time with newer sealant , like not at all. They’ll send you a free pint for testing- recommended, if you ask. I did a complete paint removal on the ramp one section at a time with D-zolve. Pleasantly surprised how quickly I ate an elephant.

Problem is… everything looks like a patch

I’ve done testing with poly-gon over variable time and temp ( days @ 70-95f) with poor results although it seemed old- small bottle from spruce - and kind of thick like some stage of drying. I had better luck with Solvent Kleene D-Zolve 1533R paint remover. It’s very safe on aluminum and steel with no hydrogen issues. Remove paints very well and somewhat reusable before it dries , stays wet for days if thick enough. Images of D-zolve test

I feel your pain. I have the same problem, except they spread massive amount of newer gray stuff over everything. Poly-gon doesn’t seem to work at all. Paint stripper works on original and seal coat- somewhat. In your photo with the scraper, there’s a fairly large gap between the lower spar strip edge and rib that is direct into the cabin (end of scraper pointed directly at it). Extra attention is required there.

I first got them from Mooney but they were too short. Genuine aviation hardware sold me longer flat head iron rivets that I cut down. The box said “broom handle rivets” so I think you can get them on eBay. Just Plain non plated steel solid rivets. I thought they were something special but turns out they’re not.

Yes, still working on paint and other needed issues.

Not really difficult to buck iron. Mine after rebalancing

At this rate they’ll be 140 plus 20 by morning

I’ve been waiting for about 20 sets of aviation wall art to show up on eBay from some unknown seller down the street. Some day maybe :-)

I do agree with rebalancing surfaces but not installing same fit, form and function falls in the realm of unavailable from the manufacturer. Not sure if I would shy away from same FFF of unaffected parts. Just my two cents.. not a lawyer

Perfect place to start a wiggle test. Wiggle till it works or not, master “on”

Stick it to the walls with magnets and wire.

That’s a good idea. I was considering that but some of the screws enter the skin at a slight angle. I thought it might be a problem but I’m going to revisit this issue

About a year ago when balancing surfaces. Used 1” steel plate on my driveway as the anvil and a universal head rivet set for an OE profile. Also had lead bar and 2024-t3 sheet to practice on. Remember having to start the “set” through some stiff foam to keep the #10 washer tight against the aluminum sheet. It came out close to original. I suggest checking balance since mine were significantly over under-balance range per serial number. I think you can get 3/16 flat head iron rivets on eBay of any length longer than required then trim to fit. They are advised as iron or plain steel. I did apply primer before install just to satisfy some ocd.

Yes, purchase 99% nickel from eBay or metal supply near you and white vinegar to make nickel acetate. It’s all over U-tube how the process works. Key is clean and oil free. So far I’ve done handles, door limit parts and heated pitot tube with great success. It’s my new satisfying thing to do while working on a complete repaint. I think it’s what others may want also. The only part using somewhat dangerous acid would be hydrochloric acid for removing existing chrome.

I’ve been nickel plating my corroded chrome parts and other rusting parts. Very easy process at home and can be polished to look like chrome and extremely corrosion resistant however part removal is required.

Acrylic urethane (yes two part) works well for spot repairs because it blends, cut/polish unlike enamel type tops. Auto paint supply can match colors at a price but spot repair of corrosion ares usually means a complete is in your near future and blending may not be very important to you. Arresting corrosion should be top priority at this time. I have also used rattle cans of approximate color to “seal” top surface until complete could be done.

I had the same running condition and found it was slightly bent intake tube clamps at each cylinder intake. The clamps are aluminum and bow around the tube flange & gasket when the fasteners are tightened. The curve is in the machined recess for the tube and easy to miss. Mine was diagnosed at 300hr since lyc factory rebuild.

You may have these behind your fuselage skin, mine does and I’m currently looking for more replacements. The unique thing about these is a 5/15” open wrench can hold them while working alone.